Cool. That's mighty high DCR. Maybe you'll get lucky. lol
Street Cruser
- Thread starter my68barracuda
- Start date
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Cool. That's mighty high DCR. Maybe you'll get lucky. lol
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
That has passed through my mind,,a bigger cam would bleed off some dynamic compression by holding the intake valve open longer, but then a bigger cam would also move the power band higher in the rpm range and I did not want that.
We shall see,,,
The cam I have is even smaller. I think I may try a thicker head gasket.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
The assembly on the new motor is about complete. The next task on my list is to get the existing motor tuned to where it could run as a street motor. Doing that to give me a better confidence that after the new motor is installed, I can hit the key and it will run. The slant that is in the car was tuned for drag race only, lots of fuel, hit the key, cold engine or hot engine it will start. The motor going in the car needs to start cold, start hot, have mid range throttle response. I will be re tuning the existing motor, then pulling it to install the new motor, then tuning it.
The existing motor then the new motor are in the photos below.
The existing motor then the new motor are in the photos below.
Yep, that's the article that scared me when i rebuilt my 225 4 yrs ago!
I sent my original cam to Oregon for a hotter regrind. I marked my original and got it back.
I kept my original oil pump to maintain the gear relationship after checking dimensions, wear and flatness per the FSM.
I added an oil squirter pointing to the gear mesh.
I may have added a small shim under the relief spring but did not want to put more stress on the gears by boosting pressure. It's a street driven slant, not a race car.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
worked out the last of the details for the AC and Alternator drive this past week.
I will start pulling the existing motor from the 68 B tomorrow. While the engine compartment is empty there are a few wire routing changes and some detailing to do.
Should be installing the new motor next weekend.
I will start pulling the existing motor from the 68 B tomorrow. While the engine compartment is empty there are a few wire routing changes and some detailing to do.
Should be installing the new motor next weekend.
abdywgn
dismantler
Looks good!(like the truck also). Seeing the header wrap,I have a question: does it deteriorate the pipe? If that is possible, would the coating that Speedway sells for headers provide the same heat retention the wrap does? Thanks! Bob
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
I have had the header wrap on this set of headers for four years. The headers are a carry over from the prior motor. Keep in mind that the car was a strip only car, and probably had 60 runs over those four years. Never was driven in the rain,,,
A piece of the header tape on the #1 pipe got torn while fitting To the new motor. I had spray painted the pipes with high temp white header paint and that paint and pipe looked as good as new.
The header tape significantly reduced under hood temps. Which I think is important when setting at the start line or staged. I don’t run a mechanical radiator fan and I switch the electric fan off when staged and down the track.
Concerning the coating, I am sure there are specialized coating that effect temperature,,,a couple of years ago I got a quote from a local company that coats a lot of the exhaust and turbo piping for the Indy Car racers,,it was around $600.00 for those long tube Hookers, way too much for me to spend. So I went with the wrap.
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abdywgn
dismantler
Thank-you for your first hand experience...mine is only read-say from magazines or websites. The coating I was referring to is applied at home and air dries, and I think was ?$20? a quart? Not super expensive like the chrome like coatings. Thanks again for your reply! Bob
vitamindart
Well-Known Member
I have painted and wrapped several sets of headers. they hold up very well. just like my68baracuda I don't drive mine in the rain. that may speed up the rusting
the last set I painted with Eastwood manifold paint and baked it before wrapping. they are holding up nicely.
the change in under hood temps and even engine temps in my big block dart was huge. I went from 200 degree plus temps to running 185 or what ever thermostat I had in temps. plug changes / checks at the track were much less risky as well.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
an update:
the new motor is in, have about 45 minutes of run time on the engine, including the cam break in time over probably 5 starts from cold and the engine ran until it reached operating temperature then shut down to completely cool then re start.
Good news is No Leaks,, I like that!
here is a video,
next steps: setting the ignition timing and the advance curve then beginning the engine tuning process and finishing the car.
the new motor is in, have about 45 minutes of run time on the engine, including the cam break in time over probably 5 starts from cold and the engine ran until it reached operating temperature then shut down to completely cool then re start.
Good news is No Leaks,, I like that!
here is a video,
next steps: setting the ignition timing and the advance curve then beginning the engine tuning process and finishing the car.
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Dartvader440gt
Well-Known Member
Looks fantastic!
What bracket did you use on the AC compressor?
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
the AC system is from Classic Auto Air, but I did not use their AC compressor bracket. The bracket is from Charlie Schmidt. He posts here at FABO. I do not think that CS still produces his AC kits, I had purchased mine from Charlie some time ago.
I like Charlie's set up as he puts the AC belt in the OE position of between the damper and the timing chain. Classic Auto Air puts the AC belt in front of the damper where the power steering hub and pulley would be. I am not running power steering but I may add a SC at some point in time so I did not want to stack anything else on the radiator side of the damper.
What is Charlie Schmidt name on here, I really would like to use the AC compressor belt in the factory location, vs how the aftermarket does it.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
started and warmed the motor today,
used the MS Trigger Wizard to lock in the distributor timing
and also re lashed the valves, after that
did a cranking compression test:
#1 185
#2 180
#3 175
#4 175
#5 180
#6 180
used the MS Trigger Wizard to lock in the distributor timing
and also re lashed the valves, after that
did a cranking compression test:
#1 185
#2 180
#3 175
#4 175
#5 180
#6 180
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
Charrlie_S,
pare you thinking TorqStorm? I’m curious if you think you can get both A/C and the SC both in?
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
No, I have an Eaton M90 that may end up in there,, on a different engine build using the same AC brackets though.
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
A couple of months since the last post. All of the major projects are finished, AC install, front end alignment, radiator fans, lights all operating. I have driven the 68 Barracuda around the neighborhood streets a couple of times. I have not ventured far as the car does not yet have plates or insurance, always kept it below 25 mph. This car is going to be a blast to drive, responsive and tight is how it feels.
I built up a revised front end to have something that looks a little different and to have something on the car while I do a restoration on the OE grills. It also take a few more pounds off the front end.
For the engine, I did a compression check on a cold engine that had not been started in a week and then checked compression again after a short drive
1 through 6 are
cold 195, 190, 185, 180, 190, 175, range of 20 and average of 185
warm 190, 190, 185, 180, 190, 180, range of 10 and an average of 185
There is more tuning to do with the FI but with winters here in Indiana, the car will stay in the garage till the weather gets better in early spring. Then I will put plates and insurance on it. The car will certainly see drag strips again and I would also like to try Autocross.
I built up a revised front end to have something that looks a little different and to have something on the car while I do a restoration on the OE grills. It also take a few more pounds off the front end.
For the engine, I did a compression check on a cold engine that had not been started in a week and then checked compression again after a short drive
1 through 6 are
cold 195, 190, 185, 180, 190, 175, range of 20 and average of 185
warm 190, 190, 185, 180, 190, 180, range of 10 and an average of 185
There is more tuning to do with the FI but with winters here in Indiana, the car will stay in the garage till the weather gets better in early spring. Then I will put plates and insurance on it. The car will certainly see drag strips again and I would also like to try Autocross.
csheehy
^Yup, that's me
@my68barracuda - awesome work here John, it's great to see it all coming together! Love the headlamp ram-air!!
Question on the valve springs, do you recall the vendor and part number? I too have decided to go with early 289 valves and this is just what I'm looking for.
Hop you and yours are safe and well,
-Chris
Question on the valve springs, do you recall the vendor and part number? I too have decided to go with early 289 valves and this is just what I'm looking for.
Hop you and yours are safe and well,
-Chris
my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
I will look that up tomorrow and post it. The springs that I selected were a good match for open and closed pressure with the cam that I am using, they may not be a direct carry over for you.
csheehy
^Yup, that's me
Thanks John.
BTW, the Ford 289 valves, same as 260? I know there's overlap between them, just trying to get it straight. I'll be ordering valves this month...
BTW, the Ford 289 valves, same as 260? I know there's overlap between them, just trying to get it straight. I'll be ordering valves this month...
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