OwdKasd
Well-Known Member
Can someone clarify what is involved with Stroking a 318. Sort of a summary of what's involved. Thanks!! Using a 396 as an example would be great.
So is it Basically a full rebuild with Shorter Rods & Specially cut Crank?? I know I should know this stuff but I really only ever did stock rebuilds back in the Day.I have an Eagle cast crank, stock floater rods, and ROSS pistons, I had KB pistons, but they don't like WOT throttle for a few minutes at a time, but for you, you would be fine. had to cut a little on the windage tray for the 4" crank, but that's it.
So is it Basically a full rebuild with Shorter Rods & Specially cut Crank?? I know I should know this stuff but I really only ever did stock rebuilds back in the Day.
Okay, I'm starting to understand. Would I need new Cam/Lifters, Springs, Push Rods. I want to do it right but try to keep the cost down. I am also considering resale value. Thanks fr the info!nope... either offset grind a stock crank or buy a new/used stroker crank...
then use longer rods to help rod angularity and short skirt pistons...
Okay, I'm starting to understand. Would I need new Cam/Lifters, Springs, Push Rods. I want to do it right but try to keep the cost down. I am also considering resale value. Thanks fr the info!
Got it, Thanks. My old Drummer actually owns a machine shop so I may get him to help me do it.to make the most of it... yes... needed... no... you wont be changing deck height on the block or heads but a couple thou for a clean up... so pushrods would be a no... if you want more cam you may need more spring and retainers to match...
a loose rule is adding 50 cubes negates 10* or duration in a cam... so an already stock cam will now be smaller... effectively...
as long as you dont have valve to piston issues (which the new pistons will already have reliefs) you'll be good as long as you keep static, SCR, and running compression, DCR, where they need to be...
Man that's a beautiful engine and tons of torque.Here's a detailed home-build of a 402 from a 318:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=283.0
This is a wilder build than the 402 I'm picking up tomorrow from Maurer's Performance. Mine's built to be street friendly (milder cam, etc.).
Hey guys, you don't need shorter rods, mine are stock 68 floating 318 rods. They raise the pin height in the piston.
Wait, did someone say stroke it and use longer rods?
How in the hell is that going to compensate anything?
never said you do... they should be longer...
nope... either offset grind a stock crank or buy a new/used stroker crank...
then use longer rods to help rod angularity and short skirt pistons...
Point well taken! I've rebuilt many engines but never got too far away from stock so forgive my ignorance. It's not that I'm embarrassed by the 318 but I'd love to have something special under the hood. :glasses7:Building a budget stroker is like building a budget early Hemi. It ain't gonna happen. If you wanna do an engine on a budget, I would stick with a stock bore and stroke one, OR plan on a longer build time.
I can see exactly what you're saying.Ignorance....hell, me too. LOL But I just know all too well from past experiences that it is REAL easy to get in so deep you lose motivation because it's taking such a toll on the budget. A lot of people think strokers are a bolt together deal, but they're not. There's lots of little things that can add up quick.