Subwoofers in a cruiser mopar

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Princess Valiant

A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
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Anyone have an audio system in a mopar that includes a subwoofer or 5 and is a high power system.

What do you run and how did you install it to not be too intrusive in an original dash?

I have been kicking around the idea for awhile installing a high powered system in a 68 valiant. I've been driving a newer Mercedes and now I'm spoiled and I want a system that bumps in the valiant too.

I'm not talking about a weak system for some old *** guitar rock, I'm talking about a heart pacing bass bump that will make the deck lid rattle and knock the license plate off.

Anyone?
 
I was gonna say go for it, but now that I see what your fixing to play on it, let me remind you of this Missy "the louder the music, the louzier the music"
 
Look for Bluetooth amplifier on Amazon. You can hide it and control it from your phone. Dirt cheap and you don’t have to cut up your dash.
 
Anyone have an audio system in a mopar that includes a subwoofer or 5 and is a high power system.

What do you run and how did you install it to not be too intrusive in an original dash?

I have been kicking around the idea for awhile installing a high powered system in a 68 valiant. I've been driving a newer Mercedes and now I'm spoiled and I want a system that bumps in the valiant too.

I'm not talking about a weak system for some old *** guitar rock, I'm talking about a heart pacing bass bump that will make the deck lid rattle and knock the license plate off.

Anyone?
That's good for your hearing
 
No sub woofer, but back in the day I had a Kraco cassette stereo, amp and equalizer and 2 large Bose home speakers in the back of the fastback.
When we partied up on the mountain, I'd put the speakers on the roof and wake up all the deer and elk. lol
Rocking roll ain't noise pollution. :D
 
Back in the day…..

I ran the head unit into an EQ that had front and rear level adjustments. The EQ also had a sub output. The EQ ether had a selectable cross over point or a sliding scale lever.

Today, you can find a powerful amp to power all 5 speakers.
Back when I was doing this, it was an amp for each section.
Front, rear, sub.

Take a stroll through Crutchfeild on line to see some of what’s available for amps. The one suggestion I can give is when it comes to an amp, the less distortion the better, more power the merry even if you don’t turn it up all the way. It’s just cleaner power filling the speakers instead of struggling to get there.
 
Back in the day…..

I ran the head unit into an EQ that had front and rear level adjustments. The EQ also had a sub output. The EQ ether had a selectable cross over point or a sliding scale lever.

Today, you can find a powerful amp to power all 5 speakers.
Back when I was doing this, it was an amp for each section.
Front, rear, sub.

Take a stroll through Crutchfeild on line to see some of what’s available for amps. The one suggestion I can give is when it comes to an amp, the less distortion the better, more power the merry even if you don’t turn it up all the way. It’s just cleaner power filling the speakers instead of struggling to get there.
You were one of those rich guy's. lol
 
Did that before with a killer BOSE system. Parked the car for 10 years in a storage yard and returned to find Very bad carnage!

My Factory AM no longer attracts Bandits!

Course it stays in the Garage most the time!
 
The first one is a Kenwood. I liked it.
A dial fader on the left, general sound from 40 - 12.8k and higher, push buttons for EQ & Sub on and off. The sub is adjustable from 150 & down with the second to right slider and the end slider is basically a sliding gain + or minus 10.

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The second on is a Prestige which was OK. F & R faded,60 - 15k EQ, a sub gain slider and two buttons to determine sub cross over points at 80 or 120.

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Last here is my favorite. A JVC with RCA outputs, F/R/Sub.
An EQ for the front and anEQ for the rear. A slider for fade and sub gain that’s has a bush button on and off as well as a defeat for the system.
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Back on the amp set up…

Before there was, or at least before I knew of any single amp capable of powering 5 speakers….

I ran 3 amps, each one powering a set of speakers and the sub.
I used a 10 sub with its own amp bolted to its housing. The min power was 150 watts. The 6X9’s were feed 180 X 2. The front has 6-1/2 rounds with 75 X 2. Balance is struck easy and well with a good and flexible EQ.

The head units I had fit back then. Today and in the past I have seen them mounted by basic brackets under the dash. I don’t like that. But I thought a box made for it was much nicer. I have seen these in plastic and contoured to basically fit. I like the home custom job is best.

Some custom wood working I have seen is really nice be it under the dash or mounted to the floor as a console.
 
My brother built this my his daughter's dart. The sub box vents through the factory slot for the rear window defroster!

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Nice console. You made me remember that my boxes were ported. Less power big sound. Just not as tight. But that’s all right.
 
In one of my Duster's years ago, I cut two 10 inch holes for woofers where the factory 6x9 holes are in the rear deck. They were MTX free hanging Woofers. Had an Alpine Deck with a Sony EQ. System had two Amps and 8 speakers, and man it sounded great
 
I cut the dash frame which wasn't original anyway for a head unit. Have 2 amps. Planet Audio amp feeding a JL 10' sub. An older kickass Fosgate Punch 4-ch amp feeding 6 speakers. It doesn't rattle the windows four blocks away but I didn't want that.
There are quite a few Bluetooth options out there now days so an in dash head unit really isn't needed.
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