Suggestions needed for a carb and convertor

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meathead66

meathead66

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Here's the engine specs; 406 cu ",607 HP 498 tq 11.5 compression
Bullet cam see attached card,
Icon pistons .033 over
Edelbrock heads W/Victor single plane intake
400 block w/steel 383 crank
Harland/Sharpe 1.6 SRP solid lifters
MSD 8545 billet dist
Dana with 3.73
Tires are MT 12" wide 27" tall

Whatcha think for a carb for 90% street and kinda prefer Holley, also what about a convertor?
Looking for some opinions as well on ignition combo's as I already have the distributor. Been hearing some negative vibes on MSD boxes so what about the Revenator?
 

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Holley 950 HP. Call PTC on the converter.
 
90% Street with that combo??? Man, you got some stones meathead! I love it. :D:D:D

I know a member here "clinteg" is running a 8" 5000ish stall on his SB that he claims is very streetable down low. I don't remember who built it for him, but a search may be able to find it? Regardless, a custom built unit will be absolutely necessary to give you the street/track performance you'll need.

As far as the carb...What was used on the dyno?
 
Dynamic or Ultimate for a converter would be my two first stops. Send a copy of the dyno sheet/graphs. Put as much flash in it as possible.

Carb, I'd use a 950hp or something similar
 
Don't know what was used on Dyno. It was the 2011 Amsoil engine 3rd place winner and kinda hard getting answers from that long ago. It did put out 607 HP at 7300 rpm and had more to go. Can't find the magazine article at the moment. But yea I know it wasn't built for the street. Kinda always wanted something that would bounce me around when waiting for the light to turn green.
 
lots of people are going with the bolt on efi's now instead of carbs. tunes itself across all the ranges (self learning) so you end up with max hp at all rpm's.

the bad: costs big $$$ and then you need upgraded fuel supply system as well.

but yeah holley 950 or look into a pro systems 950 for more power than the holley, but also more $$$ still less than efi though
 
RustyRatRod said:
Holley 950 HP. Call PTC on the converter.
Click to expand...


HP or UHP would be great. I run a 950 proform and it has proven itself to work very well on the street and the strip. Basicly an HP knockoff.


moparlover said:
lots of people are going with the bolt on efi's now instead of carbs. tunes itself across all the ranges (self learning) so you end up with max hp at all rpm's.

the bad: costs big $$$ and then you need upgraded fuel supply system as well.

but yeah holley 950 or look into a pro systems 950 for more power than the holley, but also more $$$ still less than efi though
Click to expand...

The fuel system should be up to snuff no matter what he runs.

I put one of those FAST 2.0 systems on a BB impala. Had one of their factory reps set it up in his shop and

IT STILL DOESN'T RUN RIGHT.

I'd be very leery of going this route unless you have access to a true expert that will make it run right.
 
Supposedly was pump gas however never got a straight answer on compression ratio. Got all the engine specs but don't know how to figure compression. I do know it's close to 11. So it should be close to pump, not against doing a mixture though. No comments on ignition? Remember it's a
7300 rpm winder.
 
I tend to run MSD stuff.

For that I'd get at least a Digital 6. Distributor can probably run locked out and get a box you can curve.
 
OldmanRick said:
I know a member here "clinteg" is running a 8" 5000ish stall on his SB that he claims is very streetable down low. I don't remember who built it for him, but a search may be able to find it? Regardless, a custom built unit will be absolutely necessary to give you the street/track performance you'll need.
Click to expand...

Yep running a Holley 950 HP with a custom 8" 5500 stall converter built by Dynamic. Meathead's cam is a little more radical than what I run, but I've been driving it around town mostly. The converter: unless you start to get your foot into it, you wouldn't think it was that high of a stall. Light pedal cruising around it seems very normal (compared to a lower stall performance converter). Mash the pedal and be ready for some smokin tires. Took it to the track last weekend and ran high 10's with it (posted a video in my build thread). I probably would have been happy with their 9.5" 4000 stall but I wanted the fastest converter I could put in it. What I need to do is mount my GoPro somewhere where the tach and speedo are visible (and readable) then go cruise around town with it and show how it behaves on acceleration, cruise, etc. It seems that there is some curiosity how a converter like that acts with city driving. I know that I couldn't find much info or videos before I bought mine so I went off of what people I had talked to said when they ran one like that. The carb: I do have trouble keeping idle steady, but I think that's something to do with the new distributor. It was perfect with the old solid cam and electronic distributor. But it got me into the high 10's and I still have plenty of tuning I can do. Ignition: running a MSD6-ALN with a pertronix distributor. The MSD box has been modified by Pat at TechWest Racing so it has better internal components to give it more juice. If he can't get an MSD box going, it's junk. Not real sure I'd recommend the Pertronix distributor with the MSD unless you need a rev limiter.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like the Holley 950 HP fits the bill. Efi is a bit much for my budget. It came with the MSD billet 8545 so prolly go with "Crackedback's" suggestion
of MSD box but kinda like the idea of a rev limiter. Need to mull that over a bit. "Clinteg" I have followed your build since day 1 and really applaud you especially with all reverses you had. Very nice job. I like the sound of that 9.5" 4000 stall from Dynamic. Karl I'll send you a PM cause I gotta pick your brain; I'm a "newb" with this build.
 
I think you may want to take a close look at that engine before you run it. EM engines are not designed (normally) to make power in a chassis. They're dyno mules. You may want to ajust the camshaft and valve spring pressures. Maybe static ratio too. I think any convertor will feel sluggish on the street with that combo. I would go with an 8", not 9.5". A modern version is driveable but can be had with a high stall and some efficiency at the higher rpm ranges.
 
moper said:
You may want to ajust the camshaft and valve spring pressures.
Click to expand...

The springs came to mind as soon as I saw this thread...lol. One of the reasons i said he had "big stones" :D.

One plus is, depending on how many street miles and how many 7300rpm blasts to come, he will become very proficient at changing valve springs, considering that lift with 1.6 rockers. :)
 
moper said:
EM engines are not designed (normally) to make power in a chassis.
Not exactly sure what an EM engine is but I'm assuming it means the engine was built for limited use like short bursts on a dyno?

You may want to ajust the camshaft and valve spring pressures. Maybe static ratio too.
Click to expand...
It has the Bullet dual springs 1.550 O.D, [email protected], [email protected], with 1.050 bind, according to Bullet. Are these sufficient or do you suggest a change keeping in mind its mainly for street use. Afraid I'm a bit of a"newb" to some of your terms but I've never heard of "static ratio". Could you explain it in lay terminology. Value your opinion; thanks moper.:prayer:
Click to expand...
 
EM is Engine Masters, which means they have to perform on a dyno for "X" number of pulls and are totally optimized to run at peak performance on them. Kind of like the old qualifying motors Cup cars used to be allowed to have. They'd last about 10 laps at WOT but made more power. EM engines, especially the higher placing ones, can sometimes be rough to actually put in a car and drive without some changes. Great contest, great engines, but they are no compromise to street or longevity in many cases.
 
I'd suggest a progressive rate beehive spring from CompCams for sure if you plan on driving it around. As others have stated, either put a smaller duration cam in it- or check how that one was installed at. Yes- the "all out" set-up is different than going to the A&W and expecting to make it home.:glasses7:

Call Lenny at Ultimate converter and have him build you a 9" with a good flash stall. I'm assuming your car weighs +/- 3000# ?? Also better have a large tranny cooler & deep pan on that trans. :violent2:

I've done these set-ups & street/strip engines. Remember- it's a thirsty monster & not a turboed import with fuel inj.- it WILL require much tuning.

You'll soon figure out that the 27" tire won't like the 600+ HP at all- just say'n:burnout:
 
I do expect to make some necessary changes before it gets installed. All your suggestions are duly noted. Most certainly will call Lenny and order his convertor. What's the consensus on ignition? Anyone use the Revenater?
 
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