Summit Racing oil

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70Duster340 said:
So, an oil that's already containing zinc is good, and additives are bad? Is there oil on the market that may have too much zinc?

Not trying to be a smarta**, just attempting to gain some knowledge.
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You have to get a data sheet from the oil manufacturer on the grade you're using and then compare it to the minimum requirement of zinc ppm. I remember something like 1500.
I'm more about its viscosity breakdown with temp. Most thin or cheap crap loses 20 psi.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
You have to get a data sheet from the oil manufacturer on the grade you're using and then compare it to the minimum requirement of zinc ppm. I remember something like 1500.
I'm more about its viscosity breakdown with temp. Most thin or cheap crap loses 20 psi.
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Those have to be obtained from each manufacturer? There's no place where there may be centrally located?
 
70Duster340 said:
Those have to be obtained from each manufacturer? There's no place where there may be centrally located?
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Ask Rat Salad, he might be able to pull them out of his ***, because that's where everything else he offers comes from. LOL
 
70Duster340 said:
Folks, I just have to ask. Why does the topic of oil always go south?
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I have no clue. I've done my best on this, this time. I'm not going to get ugly about it. All I'm interested in are facts. So far, I've seen none.

In the end, all these old motors really care about is if the dipstick says full. IMO, after camshaft break in with some kinds break in oil with some good zinc content, and good camshaft break in paste, you can really probably run anything off the shelf. I just prefer to have oil with a high ZDDP content. Been runnin it about 8 years in my truck. No problems whatsoever yet. Broken multiple camshafts in using it. Narry a problem there, either. I will continue to use what has worked.
 
I just use whatever I can find that's already in my garage.

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This is why I started this topic with a disclaimer. I was hoping it would go well, and it was. Then suddenly it went south. I apologize. I was just trying to gather some information.
 
70Duster340 said:
Those have to be obtained from each manufacturer? There's no place where there may be centrally located?
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I don't think so but maybe somebody has compiled them. SCHEAFFERS OIL HAS THEIRS LISTED.
Some cam failures can be contributed to core porosity and not oil.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I have no clue. I've done my best on this, this time. I'm not going to get ugly about it. All I'm interested in are facts. So far, I've seen none.

In the end, all these old motors really care about is if the dipstick says full. IMO, after camshaft break in with some kinds break in oil with some good zinc content, and good camshaft break in paste, you can really probably run anything off the shelf. I just prefer to have oil with a high ZDDP content. Been runnin it about 8 years in my truck. No problems whatsoever yet. Broken multiple camshafts in using it. Narry a problem there, either. I will continue to use what has worked.
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The cams that are going south long after breaking are ones that have been run with regular crap oil , from what I've read. And the others that go south upon break in are typically because of spring setup issue or shity cores. I use Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Oil in every engine I built and broke in.
One time I used Castrol or Valvoline and put a bottle of STP in it and the number seven lobe showed porosity...so I pulled it. Regrind it was given..
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The cams that are going south long after breaking are ones that have been run with regular crap oil , from what I've read. And the others that go south upon break in are typically because of spring setup issue or shity cores. I use Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Oil in every engine I built and broke in.
One time I used Castrol or Valvoline and put a bottle of STP in it and the number seven lobe showed porosity...so I pulled it. Regrind it was given..
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I think somebody really has to WORK at wiping a lobe in a Mopar. I've talked to Ken Heard many times and he says all the Chrysler cores are hardened almost to the center of the core.
 
Not saying it's a brilliant idea, but....
I broke in my .557 purple shaft solid with a witches brew of diesel oil, OLD very heavy racing oil with lots of zddp in it, and some Lucas breakin additive. Probably had way too much zddp in it. No problems however. Even made a few laps before changing the breakin oil out.
Gonna keep using the diesel, and the old racing oil, cause I have lots of it.
 
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33IMP said:
Not saying it's a brilliant idea, but....
I broke in my .557 purple shaft solid with a witches brew of diesel oil, OLD very heavy racing oil with lots of zzdp in it, and some Lucas breakin additive. Probably had way too much zddp in it. No problems however.
Gonna keep using the diesel, and the old racing oil, cause I have lots of it.
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:lol: we use to breakin cams with wheel bearing grease.
 
I hear if you 1st shove the camshaft up a whores *** till it bounces off her skull .. that it helps the lifters break in better..
Is that true? Calling all gurus..lmao
 
Well you could always call some of the well known engine builders and ask them what they use..You may as well talk to the people who's engines beat the **** out of the oil they use.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Where's the proof? Where's the evidence that points to zinc being 100% equivocally responsible for any form of engine damage whatsoever? And I mean BEYOND A SHADOW OF A DOUBT. I want to see it.
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What are you ask for proof of? I NEVER said zinc hurts parts. I said too much kills power and compromises the oil package. That’s 100% fact.

You can search the web for SAE articles and many, many industry tech papers where this is covered.

Look it up. It’s easy to find.
 
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: Can I Mix Zinc Additive with Off-the-Shelf Motor Oil to Save Money? - OnAllCylinders

Zddp is acidic, detergents are basic. Too much, you ruin metals and can also build too thick of a solid film on metal surfaces that burnishes and can cause a loss of cylinder wall oiling.

Add zddp to off the shelf oil, and the oil life is drastically shortened. Fine for breakin, not much else. I wonder how many cams fail because an engine was prepped and assembled then sat on the stand in a humid environment for several years before actually running?

Blending oil is chemistry. If you're not a chemist, let one do it for you.
 
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