Supercuda's on the way back...after18 years!

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abodyjoe said:
What do they use for head Pope's? Have to be custom made?
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Hi abodyjoe,

I ordered the complete exhaust system from TTi. The bends aren't too crazy so I'm sure you could have them made at any exhaust shop if you didn't want to order them from TTi.
 
abodyjoe said:
What do they use for head Pope's? Have to be custom made?
Click to expand...
Yes - you need to get them from TTI also. I have the same headers on my car and the headpipes are quite unique with these! And then you may as well buy the TTI pipes from there back to the mufflers too (X-pipe or H-pipe, your choice) then everything is a perfect fit.
 
Hey Folks,
Hoping someone can help me with this one. Since installing the new trunk rubber strip on my Cuda, I am unable to get the lid to align properly. I noticed the problem initially when I reassembled the car but wrote it off to the rubber being new and thought it would compress after a while. The bottom edge of the trunk lid sticks out about 1/4 " and therefore does not align properly with the taillights. I have seen other Cudas on here with the same problem so just wondering how you adjusted for this issue. The only adjustments I can see are the hinge bolts. Is there any adjustment where the hinge bolts to the body?
Funny thing is that the lid fit fine before I painted the car with a new trunk rubber seal that I had installed previously.
 
Are you sure the strip is in the correct place and direction. I have so many wrong positioned rubbers, installed from pros!
 
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IIRC I stopped my strip bottom of taillights possibly for same issue. But I will check.
 
AAndrews said:
Hi Plymouth4on the floor!
Great to hear from you.
I'm going to take pics and post them . Maybe that will help with a solution.

Thanks.
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Hi Andrew

If everything is correct, try to adjust the trunk lid and give more preload. It takes some time to set down the new rubbers.
Or try another brand, some replicas have the wrong shore and you will never be able to proper adjust the trunk lid.
Marco
 
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plymouth4onthefloor said:
Hi Andrew

If everything is correct, try to adjust the trunk lid and give more preload. It takes some time to set down the new rubbers.
Or try another brand, some replicas have the wrong shore and you will never be able to proper adjust the trunk lid.
Marco
Click to expand...

You may be on to something there with the brand I used. Ill post pics tomorrow

Thanks!!
 
So fellow FABO members... Its been three years since I completed this Restomod restoration of my 68 Cuda and I thought I'd share how the car is performing with the upgrades I selected with much help, advice and encouragement of the members on here. For anyone new reading this and is considering joining, do so. It is by far the best thing I did when deciding to resurrect my car and the amount of information available here for anything A-Body related is absolutely incredible !
So far, I have had very few hiccups that included a failed new orange box ignition module. Replaced with a Blue Box 7500 and its perfect . Also , had a few electrical problems including tachometer failing, erratic gas guage, and loss of temp and oil pressure gauge. Sent the cluster to Mr.Heater Box and had all the gauges recalibrated, Speedo re-zeroed, and installed an EVR. Problems solved and BTW gas guage reads perfect with a repopped sending unit with a 1/2 " feed. I installed the complete RMS suspension system including the Alterkation front components with WildWood manual brakes. power rack and pinion steering and and the Streetlynx rear setup. Had a very annoying squeak that I spent hours chasing. It turned out to be the way one of the springs on one of the rear Viking coil over assemblies was seated. Also had another knocking chassis noise that was being caused bt the TTI tail pipe being too close to the gas tank and hitting in when it flexed a little.
Now for a really weird one! I changed out the Brad Penn break-in oil after about 1000 miles and changed the filter and added 5W 40 Synthetic . The valvetrain immediately produced a loud knocking noise. Initially I thought it was a rod knock so I got a stethoscope and narrowed it down to a defective lifter. Replaced it, reassembled, same noise but different lifter! Cut the filter apart, no metal so, in desperation, I changed the filter and oil to 5-w30 regular oil. Problem solved! Still trying to figure this out!
Also, I am going to change the rear end ratio from 3.91 to 3.55's and use a 489 case I have as I want to do more highway driving and I'm spinning at 3300 at 55 mph . I'm running a 4-speed and was going to upgrade to a Passon 5-speed but I'm getting cold feet as there is a lot of commentary on why its taking so long to supply. Might just go with a Gear vendors unit.

Only other issue was paint cracking at one spot on the drivers quarter where it attaches to the roof. Body man is going to repair over the winter.

Best upgrades in my opinion? The RMS suspension , Car rides and handles like a dream ! What a pleasure to drive now! Also, the Daniel Stern headlamp upgrade. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be and this upgrade helps tremendously when night cruising. The Rallye seat upgrade for the Legendary seat covers. It helps keep me planted in the seat when hard cornering instead of sliding all over the place.

3600 miles so far and I'm so glad I did this !! For the others on this site who are doing this, keep going. There's no better feeling than taking that first drive in something you built yourself!!
 
Ok so a few posts back I mentioned that I had changed out the Brad Penn break -in oil and poured in fresh synthetic 5W30 and a new filter. I immediately started getting a knocking noise that I isolated down to a lifter on the driver side using a stethoscope. Thinking I had a bad lifter, I took the top off the engine (plus had to remove the head to get the lifter out) and replaced the lifter. Put the engine back together and... another lifter on the other side started making noise! I couldn't make any sense of this so, in desperation, I changed the oil to a Castrol 5W 30 non-synthetic and another new filter. (same brand).

Started the engine...perfect!! No Noise! WTF..!!
I have been trying to get an answer to this for months and have had everyone here at work involved including two Red Seal Certified Mechanics and no one could make any sense of this.
Last week, I had the opportunity to speak with an Oil Rep and I asked him what he thought. Here's the answer and the solution in a nutshell.
He told me that the oil I used , Mercedes Benz 5W 30 is specially formulated for those engines only. I read the bottle, it says so right on there!! He must be correct as when I changed the oil out, the problem disappeared. Must be something in the formulation that won't let the lifters pump up correctly.

Anyway , as has been said on this Forum many , many times, don't assume anything.. Read the Fuc#ING instructions/labels before doing anything!! Lesson learned the hard, expensive way for me.. again!!
 
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