MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liability.
That way from the factory .
Superstock Springs @#$%^&@#^%&
- Thread starter trapster
- Start date
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What way?
jbc426
Well-Known Member
The rear spring hangers you are using need to be swapped back to the original hangers. While you are doing that, wire brush, lubricate and loosen the u-bolts that hold the rearend to the leaf springs enough so that once your hangers are back in you can nudge the rearend towards the driver's side of the car.
The purpose of this is to shift any slack in the fitment of the springs and the rearend as far away from the passenger side of the car as it allows. Then retorque your u-bolts and re-check them a few times to ensure that they are maintaining the torque. If there was any play or movement there, it will be towards the direction you need the rear end to be.
I had the same issue on my E-Body due to running 325/50-15's on 10 inch rims. I also carefully ground about half of the fender lip off at the top of the wheel well lip using a wet cloth to avoid building up too much heat that might harm the paint. I blended the relieved area in to make the area I removed less noticable.
The purpose of this is to shift any slack in the fitment of the springs and the rearend as far away from the passenger side of the car as it allows. Then retorque your u-bolts and re-check them a few times to ensure that they are maintaining the torque. If there was any play or movement there, it will be towards the direction you need the rear end to be.
I had the same issue on my E-Body due to running 325/50-15's on 10 inch rims. I also carefully ground about half of the fender lip off at the top of the wheel well lip using a wet cloth to avoid building up too much heat that might harm the paint. I blended the relieved area in to make the area I removed less noticable.
This^^^^^^^^^
My car was dog tracking & it took me forever to figure it out. Not the same problem as yours, but the right rear wheel was about an inch farther back than the left. I x measured the chassis and it was all pretty square. Bodyperson on our forum figured it out. One of the spring front eyes had unrolled about a half turn on the right side. Pushed the spring back on the right. If you get under there and methodically start measuring (draw a diagram) you will figure it out.
trapster
Well-Known Member
Not sure, The guy I bought this from said the car was an all Original 1964 Dart with a 273 charger motor in it. Yea I know, Apparently it was HIghly modified from the dealer in the years following its birth. It does have a clean 8 3/4 with green bearings in it.
trapster
Well-Known Member
First picture is passenger side, 5 on 4" pattern. Can this be adjusted in on the passenger side, with the green bearings ?
Green bearings are non adjustable.
trapster
Well-Known Member
trapster
Well-Known Member
Hi again. Every early dart I've ever owned was shifted over this way. Response #28 is dead on. Sometimes you have to grind a slot in the spring perches to shift it over to square it up. Scribe your location and find some thin washers put them in your marked location and weld them on or even a couple of tack welds are ok. Then if you need to trim the lips remember not to go all the way to make them flush as this will weakens the quarter panels. Hope this helps.
My Swinger is the same as all have described above. I scrape my knuckles cleaning the tire on one side and can't even put my fingers through on the other. I have never measured but it is close probably 3/4" difference. Measure from the wheel opening to the tire in the front on each side to make sure it's not dog tracking.
ps Also when you're all done take it to a good alignment shop and they can tell if the rear end is straight (it probably is) and it will be worth it as they will have it all squared up. Before you take it there lube the *** out of the upper control arm nuts and you can put a wrench on them just to break them loose and tighten them back up. Just make sure your tie rods and idler arm looks good also as they will not align it if everything is loose. Idler arms are always a issue on these cars. And always burn them up and have some fun.
trapster
Well-Known Member
OK, if it is. can it be fixed. I could put offset hangers on one side, or I could move the perches?
Slot the holes on your spring perches and slide it over 1/4”.
Want there some sort of offset bushing or center bolt?
I though i saw something somewhere.
Or hole in perch oversized? And shifted..
Want there some sort of offset bushing or center bolt?
I though i saw something somewhere.
Or hole in perch oversized? And shifted..
Just curious, but won't you have to make sure that the driveshaft isn't at an angle to the trans. from the rear?
Yes move one thing and it can have a domino effect. It depends how extreme you want to get with it. Usually it's about a 1/4 inch or so and I really never had any bad vibs or anything by moving it this amount. Now if your running slicks and have 500 600 horses or so everything should be correct.
I agree, thanks
Frankly, moving it(the rear) towards the drivers side may actually correct it (driveshaft angle)because it may have been at an angle while the whole thing was shifted to the passenger side. It would be interesting to know the result.
trapster
Well-Known Member
Sounds good but I dont think there is enough play in the shackle to move the perch on top of the spring before I hit a ubolt.
trapster
Well-Known Member
Probably not, but as you may know, moving a 1/4'' at one end could be 3/4'' 4 feet away and I'm referring to side movement. I'm just thinking out loud.
trapster
Well-Known Member
Looking at these 3 pictures of the passenger side springs. it appears that the lower springs are skewed oddley from the upper springs.
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