sure grip install

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ibleedmoparts

ibleedmoparts

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Hey FABO
I have a low mileagae 489 case 3:55 center section I am getting ready to install in the Duster. It is a non sure grip unit though. What kind of hassle would there be to install a suregrip unit? Its out of the car, very tight unit. Ive never been into the gears before and was wondering if anyone could give me some insight. I have not bought the suregrip unit yet.

Thanks guys

Floyd
 
It's easy you should buy a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Cut a hole in a bucket set it bottom up insert the drop in ujoint down gears up. Install dial indicator so you can see measure your lash. Should be 2-3 thousand. Your ready to remove ring gear remove the caps that house the bearing adjusters and adjustment lock down remove carrier. Remove ring gear from carrier seems like the bolts holding the ring gear are left handed so use care on the first bolt holding ring gear on carrier. Make sure to get new bearings on the sure grip u buy unless your using a rebuild or just swapping in a good unit and have the old bearing races for the swap. Make sure to torque all ring gear bolts factory torque spec. Set sure grip into case with races installed install adjuster caps don't torq them yet screw in adjusters carefully until you get close on the lash rocking ring gear while adjusting once you get close reinstall dial indicator adjust lash 2-3 thousandths torque caps recheck lash if its still good install locks. You should be able to do this in several hours.
 
If you're installing a sure grip unit in a 489, install a solid sleeve (instead of/using a crush sleeve).
 
Well there's more to it than easy for sure.

My suggestion is to do some reading FIRST. There is a decent article here:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0308_mopar_rear_end_gears_set_up/

You will need a dial indicator and base as mentioned, you'll need a spanner type tool to properly move the adjusters and you will need something to hold the yoke.

I made these when I did mine.

View attachment Diff tool.JPG

That will save you a little.

You should use the crush sleeve eliminator as mentioned, much easier, especially if you have to do some maintenance to it in the future.

You will want to mark the caps and the housing so they go back in, in the same orientation. You will also want to get a backlash reading on the gears BEFORE you take it apart so you get them back as close as possible if you are going to use the same ring and pinion. If you are getting new gears, you can skip that step.

Just do some reading before you dig in, and start a thread here or keep this one going, there is a bunch of help here for you.

I suggest a clutch type suregrip at the very minimum.

It isn't that difficult to do as long as you arm yourself with the specifics before you get started.
 
Ill do some reading and take lots of pictures. Thanks a ton badsport. I might just have to have you on speeddial, lol!
 
The factory service manual covers it very well. Get one.
 
I'm no expert by any stretch, but when you have to work inside a budget (cars ain't my only toys) you do what you can to keep the cost down. Plus I like the satisfaction of doin' it myself.

But, I did the last one for my Dart Sport and it seems to work OK.

I got about 80 foot of fun out of that one before I had to let off, started to get a little sizeways and it freaks Momma out. :D
 

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Bad Sport said:
I suggest a clutch type suregrip at the very minimum.
Click to expand...

I would suggest any sure grip at the very minimum. Clutch or cone. You can always upgrade to a clutch style if you think you could benefit from ones price.
 
pishta said:
I would suggest any sure grip at the very minimum. Clutch or cone. You can always upgrade to a clutch style if you think you could benefit from ones price.
Click to expand...

Agreed, I like the clutch though because it can be rebuilt.
 
And if all your doing is swaping the open unit for a sure grip unit, you don't even need to mess with the pinion, and crush sleave at all...
 
amoparacer said:
It's easy you should buy a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Cut a hole in a bucket set it bottom up insert the drop in ujoint down gears up. Install dial indicator so you can see measure your lash. Should be 2-3 thousand . Your ready to remove ring gear remove the caps that house the bearing adjusters and adjustment lock down remove carrier. Remove ring gear from carrier seems like the bolts holding the ring gear are left handed so use care on the first bolt holding ring gear on carrier. Make sure to get new bearings on the sure grip u buy unless your using a rebuild or just swapping in a good unit and have the old bearing races for the swap. Make sure to torque all ring gear bolts factory torque spec. Set sure grip into case with races installed install adjuster caps don't torq them yet screw in adjusters carefully until you get close on the lash rocking ring gear while adjusting once you get close reinstall dial indicator adjust lash 2-3 thousandths torque caps recheck lash if its still good install locks. You should be able to do this in several hours.
Click to expand...

0.002"-0.003" is awfully tight for backlash.
 
mopowers said:
0.002"-0.003" is awfully tight for backlash.
Click to expand...
Yes, normally somewhere around .008 is normal. But you need to measure and mark the ACTUALL measurement at a few spots on the ring gear before you disassemble it. THAT is what you set it back to when your done..
 
Will the procedure change if all i do is install the suregrip only? Not messing with the pinion? And I want to thank you all very much! My Dad is usually my guide and we are geographically separated
 
ibleedmoparts said:
Will the procedure change if all i do is install the suregrip only? Not messing with the pinion? And I want to thank you all very much! My Dad is usually my guide and we are geographically separated
Click to expand...


Not messing with the pinion is a good idea, I had not thought about.

See replicaracer43's post above.

I would still mark the caps, some say you don't need too, some say to do it. I err on the side of caution I guess. As r43 said above take a few measurements with the dial indicator, backlash normally is 8-10 thousandths.

When you put it back together bring the adjuster in toward the pinion and get your backlash back where it was as closely as you can.
 
Alright, New sure grip coming from Dr Diff and install to follow. Im not messing with the pinion just R&I the new unit. Ive got the FSM and a little ambition...we shall see...
 
Im excited! I have the 1971 FSM from the forum. I used it when i rebuilt my 833 and it was pivotal in doing so. Ill take a lot of pictures. How do I initially check the backlash? Does the dial indicator go on the gear or flat side of the ring gear? Thanks again to everyone

Floyd
 
Set your dial indicator up something like this. Then as said above, check at 3 or 4 places around the ring gear.
 
Once mounted(dial indicator) how do I get a solid reading, i have been screwing with this reading for an hour and cannot get a steady dial reading. Any tips?
 
Isn't it best to clamp or lock the yoke in place so that it doesn't move at all as you attempt to check back lash???

Treblig
 
I've always been able to hold the pinion yoke with one hand and 'rock the lash' in the ring gear with the other to get readings. Took quite a few tries on my first axle to get the feel for it.
 
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