While your looking into the wiring and the dash is out, you might want to look into how the seatbelt interlock is connected/bypassed. It only allowed the starter to operate when the seat belt was latched. I thought it was a '74 only thing, but that little box with the red button by your HEI module looks like part of the system. Been so long, but I remember at module under the dash that I removed and connected two wires.
Swapped to Muscle - 75 Duster Daily build
- Thread starter Chambec
- Start date
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DionR
Well-Known Member
To be clear, the VR only affect the temp and fuel gauge. So that isn't going to fix your turn signals.
BTW, after talking to you about this, I bought the parts to build my own and finished it up last night:
Need to get some headsink compound and then see if it fixes my temp and fuel gauge.
I did buy extra parts in case I screwed it up. Not going to build more, this was a pain to do, but you are welcome to a chip, headsink and condensor if you want to build your own.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I noticed the same thing. I thought it was a '74 only thing as well, my guess is that a '74 wiring harness was swapped in.
On my car, I screwed around with that box forever. In the end, it is still plugged in and works fine, no idea why. As I recall, the outcry on this system was so great that I think they did a recall and disabled it. Maybe that's what happened to mine?
Chambec, I would be curious if your car has the extra box under the dash. I will get you a picture later today so you can compare. It would be up under the dash to the left of the steering column next to or on top of the fuse box. I'd guess about 3x5 plastic with a bunch of wires running into one side.
DionR
Well-Known Member
It is a direct fit with both tie rod ends and adjusters. Nothing else is needed.
I suspect it is a good upgrade if you are pushing the envelope with the car. I am still running the stock stuff and haven't noticed any issue even with the 245/45R17 tires on the front, but I haven't done anything on the track with it either. I would have upgraded but they were in good shape and need the cash elsewhere at the time.
That said, at some point I want to upgrade. If you need the parts anyway, I would do it. But I'm all about "bigger is better".
DionR
Well-Known Member
Yep, that's it.
Interesting that it is green. Mine is white, and I have a spare that is blue.
So your car either had the whole harness swapped in, or it came from the factory with the seatbelt interlock. Weird.
DionR
Well-Known Member
The return of the seat belt interlock: government over-reach or money saver?
According to the above link, disconnecting the seatbelt switch would disable to interlock. I wonder if that's why mine works, don't think I even have the right year belts in my car so nothing to connect the wiring to.
According to the above link, disconnecting the seatbelt switch would disable to interlock. I wonder if that's why mine works, don't think I even have the right year belts in my car so nothing to connect the wiring to.
I was curious now and I noticed when I was under the dash yesterday that some of the ignition harness from the key was cut and spliced. Looking at the wires from the plug, do in fact, go to that block/module that I posted earlier. I am suspecting that that is how its being initially bypassed.
Scott's dart
Well-Known Member
My dart is a 75 and I have the same thing under my dash! (I'm from Canada and so is the car, not sure if that has anything to do with the color of the box)
DionR
Well-Known Member
Maybe that's the answer, Canadian cars got the seatbelt interlock for '75 as well.
DionR
Well-Known Member
On a side note, this did fix my fuel and temp gauge. I apparently ran it out of gas running around without a fuel gauge, so glad to have a functioning one again.
Bit of an update since the weekend.
On Saturday, my wife and I headed to the junkyard in hopes to get a 8.8 out of an explorer. We found a decent one as since I last went, almost all of the 3.73 limited slips were gone. After about 4 hours of working to get that out, we failed. We were kinda doomed for failure as I had forgotten 3 key tools to get the axle out. A 18mm deep well socket, hammer and punch. Not gonna lie, got a bit discouraged after that and my wife is now traumatized looking at an axle now lol
Though, it might be a good thing as I was searching around and found a guy off of facebook that sells a bracket kit for the front and rear to adapt 2014 mustang rotors and calipers to the car. I will be reaching out to get the specs of that arrangement as that would mean that I could get 13" front and 12" rear discs w/ calipers for about $300 not including the brackets. There would have to be lines and fittings to get that all installed I am sure but that is not bad at all. I will see where that leads... more to come on that option. I am weighing the options as I would like to have a wider axle for better wheel fitment but would also like bigger brakes.
Also, yesterday, i started to prep the gauge cluster and get that pulled out. Got that out and noticed that I broke one of the pins off the board. Though, I did get the headlight switch out and replaced along with the wipers. I should be getting the LED bulbs and solid state IVR today in the mail. We shall see what happens then. Can those pins on the circuit board get soldered back on without an issue?
On Saturday, my wife and I headed to the junkyard in hopes to get a 8.8 out of an explorer. We found a decent one as since I last went, almost all of the 3.73 limited slips were gone. After about 4 hours of working to get that out, we failed. We were kinda doomed for failure as I had forgotten 3 key tools to get the axle out. A 18mm deep well socket, hammer and punch. Not gonna lie, got a bit discouraged after that and my wife is now traumatized looking at an axle now lol
Though, it might be a good thing as I was searching around and found a guy off of facebook that sells a bracket kit for the front and rear to adapt 2014 mustang rotors and calipers to the car. I will be reaching out to get the specs of that arrangement as that would mean that I could get 13" front and 12" rear discs w/ calipers for about $300 not including the brackets. There would have to be lines and fittings to get that all installed I am sure but that is not bad at all. I will see where that leads... more to come on that option. I am weighing the options as I would like to have a wider axle for better wheel fitment but would also like bigger brakes.
Also, yesterday, i started to prep the gauge cluster and get that pulled out. Got that out and noticed that I broke one of the pins off the board. Though, I did get the headlight switch out and replaced along with the wipers. I should be getting the LED bulbs and solid state IVR today in the mail. We shall see what happens then. Can those pins on the circuit board get soldered back on without an issue?
Thats awesome to hear! Once I get mine in, I will have to see what all is working after that. Hopefully its similar and I am able to see some temps and fuel. If that get figured out, then I can work on turn signals. Not looking forward to chasing that issue....
I checked the VIN but that doesnt say where it was made... I will have to get the fender tag info and see if that says where it was made.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Not sure it helps, but if I don't care about the u-bolts, I cut them at the top using a hacksaw. Just be careful not to nick the axle tube. And you don't have to cut all the way through because they usually pop (with a bang) when they get thin. Takes maybe 5 minutes per u-bolt as opposed to hours working a breaker bar.
Like to hear more about this.
I've seen them soldered on, but no idea on the process. One of my worst fears. If I can, I will dig around tonight and see if I have a spare printed circuit board.
For what it's worth, I generally leave the switches plugged into the harness and hanging when I remove the cluster. I find it easier to reach up and push them through the holes and add the fastener rather than try and get the plug to align. Maybe that's what you are doing, just tossing it out there just in case.
About the brakes, here is a link to the video that I watched that lead to look into this further. I have reached out to him off of his facebook page to get more info.
From what I have gathered, he wants $260 for both brackets, front and rear, and it allows all of the available brake options for the 2014 base/GT/GT500 models, including the brembo style.
From what I have gathered, he wants $260 for both brackets, front and rear, and it allows all of the available brake options for the 2014 base/GT/GT500 models, including the brembo style.
Interesting! Please share what you find out about these.
Cley
Cley
DionR
Well-Known Member
I went and found the video for the front brakes and it really isn't any different than what I did to put 13" Mustang Cobra rotors and PBR PCD (C5 Vette) calipers on my car. Or what AndyF did to put Viper calipers on stock spindles. Not saying he (or I) copied anyone, not like anyone bought someone else's kit and started producing their brackets based on measurement's taken.
Didn't find any real info on the rear brake swap, so curious to see what kind of response you get.
OK, got some info on the brackets and swap info.
Basically, for the rear, it will need a metric to standard fitting. That should be all that is needed to connect the rear calipers. Rears would be 11.81" rotors and either the single piston or dual piston brembo caliper.
The front is where things get interesting. DionR mentioned, its very similar to the thread that AndyF made about the conversion. Its really meant for drum brake spindles as it needs a hub from the drum backing or one from DoctorDiff (Billet Aluminum version). For the hoses/lines, it seems that it can adapt right to disk brake lines using the mustang banjo fitting. The front rotor sizing that are compatible with the bracket would be: 11.5", 12.4", 13.2", and 14" are compatible along with the 15 inch will work too with the extra 5/16" spacers.
While initially, it seems like it would be a cost effective conversion for both front and rear brake upgrades... it might not be. With the additional expense of the hub, the parts list would minimally look like this without any of the lines/hoses:
Rear axle shafts for 8.75: 300
Brackets for F/R disks: 260
2014 Mustang Calipers/rotors/pads kit on ebay: 343
Billet Aluminum hub for front disk spindle: 300
Total cost without shipping roughly: 1203
With some of the additional/unexpected parts, I am guessing it will be around 1350-1400 for just the 5x4.5 conversion/rear disk conversion/big brake conversion.
Whereas, with the explorer swap:
JY 8.8 axle w/3.73 limited slip (11.2" rear disk brake): 200 (incl local taxes rounded up)
Perches: Already own
Driveline mods: minimum 100
Hoses/lines: 50-100
11.75" caliper brackets: 90
11.75" rotors: 145
Total cost roughly: 635 +/- so lets round up to 700.
It seems to me that the clear winner for the budget oriented would be to stick with the explorer swap and upgrade the front to the larger 11.75" brakes. Being completely realistic, I dont think that either option is bad. There are some serious bonuses with the mustang brake setup... I am just not sure how much of an upgrade it would be or if those bonuses are worth almost double the cost.
Basically, for the rear, it will need a metric to standard fitting. That should be all that is needed to connect the rear calipers. Rears would be 11.81" rotors and either the single piston or dual piston brembo caliper.
The front is where things get interesting. DionR mentioned, its very similar to the thread that AndyF made about the conversion. Its really meant for drum brake spindles as it needs a hub from the drum backing or one from DoctorDiff (Billet Aluminum version). For the hoses/lines, it seems that it can adapt right to disk brake lines using the mustang banjo fitting. The front rotor sizing that are compatible with the bracket would be: 11.5", 12.4", 13.2", and 14" are compatible along with the 15 inch will work too with the extra 5/16" spacers.
While initially, it seems like it would be a cost effective conversion for both front and rear brake upgrades... it might not be. With the additional expense of the hub, the parts list would minimally look like this without any of the lines/hoses:
Rear axle shafts for 8.75: 300
Brackets for F/R disks: 260
2014 Mustang Calipers/rotors/pads kit on ebay: 343
Billet Aluminum hub for front disk spindle: 300
Total cost without shipping roughly: 1203
With some of the additional/unexpected parts, I am guessing it will be around 1350-1400 for just the 5x4.5 conversion/rear disk conversion/big brake conversion.
Whereas, with the explorer swap:
JY 8.8 axle w/3.73 limited slip (11.2" rear disk brake): 200 (incl local taxes rounded up)
Perches: Already own
Driveline mods: minimum 100
Hoses/lines: 50-100
11.75" caliper brackets: 90
11.75" rotors: 145
Total cost roughly: 635 +/- so lets round up to 700.
It seems to me that the clear winner for the budget oriented would be to stick with the explorer swap and upgrade the front to the larger 11.75" brakes. Being completely realistic, I dont think that either option is bad. There are some serious bonuses with the mustang brake setup... I am just not sure how much of an upgrade it would be or if those bonuses are worth almost double the cost.
1969dodgedart
Big Block 440
Soldered a pin back in on my cluster with a butane pen style soldering tool . Clean up the best you can , put paste on both parts and use a thin soldering wire .
I have a set I bought from Vlad at the house. They look real good. I got them for the 67 Coronet. Havnt installed yet though.
Alrighty, bit of an update.
Earlier in June, I was working on the gauges and some of the electrical. Working with DionR, I was trying to get the Temp and Gas gauges to work. After spending a good chink of time, testing the wires/connections/gauges, they still arent working when running. DionR supplied a new(to me) circuit board and I threw that in. Also threw in some of the LED lights for the dash that I got. Still, no Temp or Gas gauge. Just to make sure, I got a new temp switch to see if that would do the trick for the temp gauge. More to come on that. Hopefully that works. I also worked on getting a Tach installed as well. Had to set my idle again as I was a bit too low.
Skipping ahead, on June 9th, was my wife and I's anniversary and she stated that she had a surprise but it wouldnt get here until the 12th. So the 12th comes around and see what the FedEx guy delivered. She actually got something for the Duster! It was a set of tires that I had on a wishlist. So she got me 2x BFGoodrich G-Force Sport Comp 2 245 /50 R16 (fronts) and 2x 255 /50 R16 (rears). Super stoked that she got those for me!
Another purchase that happened this last weekend was that I found a donor axle out of an explorer to perform the axle swap at a great deal. After driving 100 miles to pick it up, it was in great shape. Its the 3L73 code for the limited slip 3.73 gear. Going to start prepping that to throw under the car here soon.
One last bit of an update, I ordered my front steering and suspension rebuild from PST. That includes: Upper tube arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, idler and pitman arms and the upgraded aluminum C-body adjusters. I also got the Energy Suspension Strut rod bushings as well. I am still researching what torsion bars I want to go with but that and a sway bar is next on the suspension. I will also have to see about how or what the car will look like once the 8.8 is in.
More to come!
Earlier in June, I was working on the gauges and some of the electrical. Working with DionR, I was trying to get the Temp and Gas gauges to work. After spending a good chink of time, testing the wires/connections/gauges, they still arent working when running. DionR supplied a new(to me) circuit board and I threw that in. Also threw in some of the LED lights for the dash that I got. Still, no Temp or Gas gauge. Just to make sure, I got a new temp switch to see if that would do the trick for the temp gauge. More to come on that. Hopefully that works. I also worked on getting a Tach installed as well. Had to set my idle again as I was a bit too low.
Skipping ahead, on June 9th, was my wife and I's anniversary and she stated that she had a surprise but it wouldnt get here until the 12th. So the 12th comes around and see what the FedEx guy delivered. She actually got something for the Duster! It was a set of tires that I had on a wishlist. So she got me 2x BFGoodrich G-Force Sport Comp 2 245 /50 R16 (fronts) and 2x 255 /50 R16 (rears). Super stoked that she got those for me!
Another purchase that happened this last weekend was that I found a donor axle out of an explorer to perform the axle swap at a great deal. After driving 100 miles to pick it up, it was in great shape. Its the 3L73 code for the limited slip 3.73 gear. Going to start prepping that to throw under the car here soon.
One last bit of an update, I ordered my front steering and suspension rebuild from PST. That includes: Upper tube arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, idler and pitman arms and the upgraded aluminum C-body adjusters. I also got the Energy Suspension Strut rod bushings as well. I am still researching what torsion bars I want to go with but that and a sway bar is next on the suspension. I will also have to see about how or what the car will look like once the 8.8 is in.
More to come!
Oh and I forgot to mention, I took the car out for a 50 mile cruise. It did really well for the long drive given the amount of updates and work put into it.
Some things that I have to work on though, would be the exhaust as that kinda came apart on a big dip that I had hit in the road. I also really need to get the turn signals working as the cruise that I took, eventually turned into a rain storm and that was fun when having to use hand signals
Another thing that has to be looked into the is A833. In 2nd and 4th, its REALLY LOUD. After mentioning this to DionR, he suggested that I check the fluid levels, which is a great idea. I was looking into what people are using for fluid and seems that Redline GL-4 is the go to for these transmissions? I also have to look into a rebuild for it as i am almost certain that the 3rd gear synchro is bad. It grinds hard when go from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Though, I am also playing with the idea of a 5-spd swap at this point. Thinking of potentially a T-5 WC/TR3550 to grow into a TKO600 eventually or perhaps the R154. But that will be at a later date.... Got an axle to swap in first.
Some things that I have to work on though, would be the exhaust as that kinda came apart on a big dip that I had hit in the road. I also really need to get the turn signals working as the cruise that I took, eventually turned into a rain storm and that was fun when having to use hand signals
Another thing that has to be looked into the is A833. In 2nd and 4th, its REALLY LOUD. After mentioning this to DionR, he suggested that I check the fluid levels, which is a great idea. I was looking into what people are using for fluid and seems that Redline GL-4 is the go to for these transmissions? I also have to look into a rebuild for it as i am almost certain that the 3rd gear synchro is bad. It grinds hard when go from 2nd to 3rd or 4th to 3rd. Though, I am also playing with the idea of a 5-spd swap at this point. Thinking of potentially a T-5 WC/TR3550 to grow into a TKO600 eventually or perhaps the R154. But that will be at a later date.... Got an axle to swap in first.
Little bit of an update.
Started to work on getting the axle all prepped and ready for the swap. Got the e-brake cables off and wire wheeled it a bit to get the rust and road grime off. Then started to get the unnecessary brackets off. Got sway bar brackets and the leaf spring brackets off and ground down and then got rained out.
Going to have to go out and wire wheel again to get the imminent flash rust and paint the axle. This will likely be tomorrows project.
I am not touching the cover as I found a "Junkyard Mod" for these 8.8's that I plan on doing. Pretty neat actually. It will be an aluminum cover from a 01-04? Explorer that can bolt up. Here is the video for inspiration:
I plan on going to the JY maybe this weekend to get one of those covers. Also, if I get the time, I might dig into the front steering rebuild this weekend with the parts from PST.
Started to work on getting the axle all prepped and ready for the swap. Got the e-brake cables off and wire wheeled it a bit to get the rust and road grime off. Then started to get the unnecessary brackets off. Got sway bar brackets and the leaf spring brackets off and ground down and then got rained out.
Going to have to go out and wire wheel again to get the imminent flash rust and paint the axle. This will likely be tomorrows project.
I am not touching the cover as I found a "Junkyard Mod" for these 8.8's that I plan on doing. Pretty neat actually. It will be an aluminum cover from a 01-04? Explorer that can bolt up. Here is the video for inspiration:
I plan on going to the JY maybe this weekend to get one of those covers. Also, if I get the time, I might dig into the front steering rebuild this weekend with the parts from PST.
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