Swapped to Muscle - 75 Duster Daily build

[DionR]

I am not touching the cover as I found a "Junkyard Mod" for these 8.8's that I plan on doing. Pretty neat actually. It will be an aluminum cover from a 01-04? Explorer that can bolt up. Here is the video for inspiration:



I plan on going to the JY maybe this weekend to get one of those covers. Also, if I get the time, I might dig into the front steering rebuild this weekend with the parts from PST.

That's pretty cool!

Wonder if the ears could be used to build a watt's link or similar.

Only concern I would have on a stock car is if the cover could contact the fuel tank. Seems like that is an issue in some cases. Just something to watch for.

 

[Chambec]

That's pretty cool!

Wonder if the ears could be used to build a watt's link or similar.

Only concern I would have on a stock car is if the cover could contact the fuel tank. Seems like that is an issue in some cases. Just something to watch for.

Maybe later down the line, and decide to go with links, that may be an option.. though, I would think that aluminum for a watts link may be too weak?

But I would, at the moment, basically cuts the ears like in the video.

 

[DionR]

...though, I would think that aluminum for a watts link may be too weak?

Good point, hadn't thought about the issue of strength of the mount.

 

[Chambec]

Little bit of an update.

Continued to work on the temp gauge. Got a new temp switch/senor and installed that. While I was there, I swapped out the thermostat from the current 200 degree to a 180 degree unit. Got it all bolted up and installed. Ran the car for about 10-ish minutes, and sure enough, the temp gauge started going up!! Really stoked about that.

Once that was fixed, I moved on to getting the front suspension prepped for the new goodies. Started to soak down the bolts with some good ol' PB Blaster.

While soaking, I moved to figure out the turn signals. I started off with the fuse panel to see if there were any fuses that needed to be replaced. Most were good but I did have 2 and 4 fuses that had to be replaced. Tested the turn signals and hazards. Nothing. No clicks or anything from the cans.

Hopped on the computer and looked at a 74 wiring diagram that @DionR sent me. Going through the diagram, the power goes through the hazards first apparently using D31 18P and D32 18P wires. Taking a look at my setup... There wasnt an a connector with 2 pink wires. Just brown and yellow or Red w/white tracer and black. So I had taken the cans out to test the wires to see if any of them were hot. Nope. Crawled under the dash and tucked away at the top near the wires for the amp gauge was a plug with 2 pink wires. Took the can from the brown/yellow wires and plugged it into the pigtail for the 2 pinks. Put the car to Run position and tested the hazards. THEY WORK NOW!! Turned off he hazards and tested the signals, thinking for sure they were gonna work. Welp, all of that excitement turned into some frustration realllllllly quick. No luck with the turn signals.

So I hopped back to testing the plugs to see if the Red/w and Black pigtail had power when using the signal lever or if the brown/yellow pigtail had power. Neither had power, telling me that somewhere, there is a plug not plugged in or that a wire is cut/not getting power. Hopping back over to the diagrams, I see that diagrams show that D1 18BLK should have the power to activate the switch. After tracing that in the diagrams, it should be (from my understanding of the diagrams at least) that it should go:

Fuse block 2 > C1 14 BLK > X12 14 R > B1 18W > Backup switch CE17 > B2 18BLK......
There is a split at B1 18W near the switch--- D1 18BLK > Flasher can > Turn signal switch

Is that right? Is there a connection point at or near the backup switch at the trans? I crawled under the car and see that what I suspect is the backup switch, that nothing is connected there. If that is the case, is there a bypass that I can do in order to get the turn signals working?

 

[Chambec]

Yup... Just confirmed what I saw on the trans is the backup switch. Yea, nothing is connected to that....

 

[DionR]

The backup light shouldn't cause your issue.

So, looks like power for the turn signals comes from the #2 fuse. It splits a couple of times but in regards to the turn signals it hits the flasher through a black wire and leaves the flasher on a red wire (see A27-28 of the wiring diagram). It looks like you already tested that, so I would go back to the fuses and make sure #2 hasn't blown again or doesn't still have an issue. If the fuse is still good, check your blower motor and see if it works. If so, then power is getting that far. The next place it splits is at the radio. If the radio works or the red wire with the white white spliced at the plug has power then your issue is still downstream. The next split is the one you found already in the image above.

Not sure what the plug with brown and yellow wires is for, there are only 2 flashers in the diagram for a '74 (turn and hazard) that I could find. Maybe '75 has another one?

BTW, fuse #4 looks to power the AC circuit. If you don't have AC, it is probably empty.

 

[Chambec]

The backup light shouldn't cause your issue.

So, looks like power for the turn signals comes from the #2 fuse. It splits a couple of times but in regards to the turn signals it hits the flasher through a black wire and leaves the flasher on a red wire (see A27-28 of the wiring diagram). It looks like you already tested that, so I would go back to the fuses and make sure #2 hasn't blown again or doesn't still have an issue. If the fuse is still good, check your blower motor and see if it works. If so, then power is getting that far. The next place it splits is at the radio. If the radio works or the red wire with the white white spliced at the plug has power then your issue is still downstream. The next split is the one you found already in the image above.

Not sure what the plug with brown and yellow wires is for, there are only 2 flashers in the diagram for a '74 (turn and hazard) that I could find. Maybe '75 has another one?

BTW, fuse #4 looks to power the AC circuit. If you don't have AC, it is probably empty.

OK, tested the blower motor. Doesnt work (was planning on working on this at a later date). Tested radio wires as I dont have a radio but that works. There is power going to the red/white wires. So I guess I have to hunt down that last spit and see where that is at and test.

Also, about the fuses, it is an original AC car so that does have the wires for it. Just not hooked up.

 

[DionR]

Looks like the last spice (the one in your picture) is at the bulkhead connector - socket B I think.

 

[Chambec]

Update time.

To start off this update, Friday night, I was supposed to meet up with DionR and watch the races. Trying to get the car prepped by fixing the turn signals, I wanted to take it out. Well, before i get into that, let me first say, that I was able to get the turn signals working temporarily. I found another power source that was keyed and was able to make a temp bypass until I could figure out where the break in the wiring was occurring. So tested the turn signals and 3/4 work. The front passenger doesnt as the socket is really corroded.

Anyways, to get back to the story. After getting the car all prepped, I took the family out to the races and got there a bit early. So since I had the family we were driving around a bit and at a stop light, I was loosing brakes... Pulled over and noticed that I was leaking a good amount of brake fluid at the driver rear brake line. Had to make a fast repair by crimping the line off by using some vice grips. Managed to limp home in that state but missed the races.

So that was the catalyst for the following. Next day, at like 5:30PM, I decided that I was going to just rip out the axle in prep for the 8.8. Well mission accomplished. I was able to rip that axle out in under 30 mins.

With how little time it was to get the axle out... I then proceeded to get the perches fitted to the axle (Mopar performance perches for the 8.75") and get the 8.8 in to see what it would look like and start getting the pinion angle set.

Feeling absolutely over the moon about getting all of that busted out and seeing the axle underneath, I decided to see what the wheels would look like.

The tires that are on the wheels are 235/70/16's but after looking at them, the 255's *should* be able to work. Though, I might have to look into some new springs as the ones that are on now are pretty saggy (maybe shackles for a temp solution?). We shall see.

Since getting the axle mocked up and in place, I have ordered the rest of the brake parts for the front to go to 11.75" (Caliper bracket, rotors, pads), some KYBs all around, new ubolts for the 8.8 (3.25" tube) and 8.8 brake hoses. I am hoping to have the axle perches tacked/welded in this week to then measure for driveline mods.

Also, from the reading and research that I have done about pinion angle, is that it should be about -2*, correct? As its supposed to allow flex to get to 0* - +2* to match with the driveline/trans angle when under load?

 

[Chambec]

Oh and found out that when I fill the gas tank to full, that the patch in the gas tank, seeps a bit of fuel..... great.

 

[DionR]

Oh and found out that when I fill the gas tank to full, that the patch in the gas tank, seeps a bit of fuel..... great.

Might look at an EFI tank (Tanks Inc) if you ever think you might go to that at some point. If you have to buy a tank anyway. Not sure on the interim of running a carb on an in-tank pump, but I am sure there are option.

Can't say it will be cheaper, just something to think about.

A friend and I built my EFI tank using a new tank and a gen5 Camaro fuel pump, but I wouldn't suggest buying a new tank with the plan to do this after running gas in it for awhile.

 

[Chambec]

I was looking at some fuel tanks from various people. Since I was thinking about getting a new fuel sender anyways, it might be something that I should do is to get the package deal from like ebay or rockauto, tanks inc, etc... But i did happen to see this on ebay yesterday that got me thinking.

Aeromotive 18144 Gen II Fuel Gas Tank w/pump 1970-1976 dart/duster MOPAR A Body | eBay

Doing a bit of research, it wouldnt take much to get that going. Probably have to run some new fuel line/hose, return-style regulator and that should be it.

But one project at a time lol Gotta get my axle all the way in then work on the front steering and suspension. That should allow enough time to figure out what options that I will take

 

[Chambec]

Yesterday I got some stuff accomplished that is super exciting, at least for me. During my lunch yesterday, I got my tires mounted on the wheels yesterday. After work, and before getting the call stating that the tires were ready, I prepped for the test fit. I fortunately got my ubolts in and got the axle bolted down in place. Picked up the new shoes that were mounted and then got home. Mounted them on the car and lowered it on its own weight.

After getting down on all tires, it looks great! However, it really shows how bad the rear springs were. Its saggin' bad. Nonetheless, if the springs werent saggin, then the 255's fit no problem. For comfort though, I may end up either cutting the lip or rolling the fenders. As is, there is about 1/4" travel before the sidewall would make contact with the fender lip.

Also cleaned up and painted the spring plates to freshen them up a bit.

 

[Chambec]

So today, I was researching the leaf sag dilemma. I took a look at ESPO and got a quote from them, took a look at the hotchkis leafs, ebay leafs, and even a quote from a custom leaf spring builder locally. Except for the ebay leafs, all were all at or above $400.... And I would really not want to get some ebay leafs only for them to sag 2 months in and have the same issue....

So my solution? Improvise.

I happen to have a Dana 60 from a Dodge 3/4 ton that has some leafs on them. Taking a look at them... plenty of arch in them, and free... I am thinking that I will replace the 3rd leaf in the Duster spring pack with one of the leafs from 3/4 ton pack.... But now that I am thinking about it... I have another leaf pack from a D100 that seems to have thinner leafs... I may go that route and swap a leaf from that pack... Anyways, that is my plan. To swap out a leaf from a truck to get it back to proper ride height until I am able to get some new leaf springs. That and new torsion bars. It should work, at least as a temp measure?

 

[Chambec]

Oh my... Seems that I haven't made an update in some time. Since the last post, progress has been made but slowed down quite a bit.

Starting from the last post, I re-built and combined two leaf packs into one. Overall, I really like the added stiffness to the car. Overall, it raised the backend up roughly 1-2".

Once the leafs were in and tightened, I then moved to the drive line and got that ujoint swapped for the conversion ujoint and it all went in like it was meant to be. Really impressed.

Afterwards, I moved to the front to start with the rebuild. This included swapping the A-arms from PST and then upgrading to the larger 11.5" disks.

I also upgraded/rebuilt the steering components as well, while I was at it.

Got all of that swapped in and now it needs a good alignment. Its good enough now to allow it to drive straight and to the alignment shop but that is about it.

 

[Chambec]

To continue on, I also found a good hood to replace the banged up one that was on the car.

Before the hood swap, it had a big dent in the middle and was warped:

After the hood swap:

Looks good! I kinda like the white color personally.... Think its neat.

Anyways, the 8.8 needed to have the brakes done on it still so that was swapped out and then I was able to get the brakes in the rear buttoned up and bled.

Since getting the suspension and brakes pretty much done, I was dink'in around with the steering in the car (steering wheel) and noticed that the steering wheel would not tighten... Pulled the steering wheel off and its stripped....

Ordered up a used 74 Scamp steering column from eBay and swapped out the rod and kinda rebuilt the column and refreshed it a bit. Though, took me a hot minute to get the steering gear and coupler to mate up.

 

[DionR]

Nice! Can't wait to see it on the street.

 

[Chambec]

Welp.... Not good. This is on that free 360 magnum block I picked up...

I was going to get it prepped to build it as my intentions were to just slap in cam bearings, put in a stock(-ish) cam and throw it in the car.... Looks like plans have now changed. To be honest, not even sure how half a rod bearing gets sheared like that...

With that, this "budget" swap that I had in mind kinda goes out the window. Here are my current options that I can think of.

Option 1 - Stock-ish rebuild on the current 318. Master Rebuild kits are really cheap in comparison to the magnum. Literally by half.
Option 2 - Continue with the magnum 360 but send to the machine shop and start the "might as well" and "while I am at it" processes.... Like, if its going to go to the machine shop, might as well bore it out. Might as well upgrade the pistons. While I am at it, might as well balance the assembly.... Might as well upgrade the cam along with upgrading the heads... it just never ends... lol
Option 3 - I have access to a good running 5.2 Magnum out of a Durango that has roughly 120K miles on it. Kinda thinking about seeing what it would take to get that.

Maybe I am overthinking and its not a big deal. I will have to call around and see what the going rates are to clean up the crank.

 

[WTruo]

That's one hell of a build. I like it.

 

[missing linc]

I would check into having the crank resized, assuming that the cylinders are all ok, a new set of bearings is not much $$. JMO

 

[Chambec]

Pretty much confirms that I am going to have to turn the crank.

Got the pistons out and all of the pistons were down to the copper on the bearings. The mains were simply tore up. They all looked like that and there was some grooving on 1, 2 and 4 mains on the crank.