Swedish 1969 Dart GT + 1964 Dart GT

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On the go again.
Rocker almost done , some small completion remains. Testing the wheelhouses and quarterpanel together, Must say AMD is the s... , fits like a glove

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Some updates. Knew that my roof was not in best shape. Skyport installed in the 80:s and removed later. 5/8" bondo , cracked and a place for birds to take a bath. Away with the old and in with the "new"

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nice work, always good to get proper fitting replacement parts!.....I've got that plenum job to look forward to soon! At least mines not bad in there, just want be sure & to get rid of the air vents....
 
moparmat2000 said:
Ouch!! Thats got to be about 5 gallons of bondo poured in there. Glad you were able to find an unmolested roof skin for it.
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#metoo :)
It turned up just after I bought the car. Did not hesitate one second
 
Gonna modify the wire harness with a new 3D printed fusebox with modern flat fuses and get rid of relays in the engine bay.


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Are you going to run a volt gage, and do the ammeter bypass?

Thats a nice fusebox. You could prob sell the heck out of those.

I think the point of the headlight relays being up front by the battery was to mostly avoid the voltage drop associated with the longer wire run going into and out of the cabin area then back to the headlights.

I bought this nice micro relay box made by littelfuse that can be configured for up to 3 micro relays with fuses, and uses GM weather pack connectors. I told the seller what i needed relay wise and pin wise, and he sold me what i needef along with blanking plugs for the unused holes. It was about $38. Will fit it on fenderwell next to the battery. Appears stock ish looking. I will be running an engine driven fan, so it will be configured only for lights. Angled bracket on it makes it sit perfectly level against the inner fender like it was made for it.

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View attachment 1715200498 I also will be using a nice coolant overflow bottle from a hyundai tiburon. Had to make a riser out of 1" square tubing and mount rivnuts in the inner fenderwell. I got this on closeout thru rockauto for about $2.50 , and L shaped factory mount bracket for $5. Moved over one of the factory horns to allow the bottle to clear

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moparmat2000 said:
Are you going to run a volt gage, and do the ammeter bypass?

Thats a nice fusebox. You could prob sell the heck out of those.

I rhink the point of the headlight relays being up front by the battery was to mostly avoid the voltage drop associated with the longer wire run going into and out of the cabin area then back to the headlights.

I bought this nice micro relay box made by littelfuse that can be configured for up to 3 relays with fuses, and uses GM weather pack connectors. About $38. Will fit it on fenderwell next to the battery. Appears stock ish looking. I will be running an engine driven fan, so it will be configured only for lights. Angled bracket on it makes it sit perfect against the inner fender like it was made for it.

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moparmat2000 said:
View attachment 1715200498 I also will be using a nice coolant overflow bottle from a hyundai tiburon. Had to make a riser out of 1" square tubing and mount rivnuts in the inner fenderwell. I got this on closeout thru rockauto for about $2.50 , and L shaped factory mount bracket for $5. Moved over one of the factory horns to allow the bottle to clear

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Sorry , I am not the constructor of the fuse box. It is a Facebook member of MoPar A-body Sverige and yes I have already done the ammeter conversion.
Nice looking bottle by the way, Will have that in mind for the future
 
I used 5630 flexible led light strip for inside of my gage housing. It was about $7 for 5 meters lol. I saw the number 5 in the ebay ad, and went hey cool 5 feet just what i need which was reasonably priced i thought, then i unwrapped it and went oh **** theres 13-15 feet in here lol. I been using the leftovers on other projects now. Also every 3 segments has a cut line and solder tabs. Makes the cluster light up in a nice uniform glow. Theres many color options available like orange, blue, red, purple, green etc, and it is dimmable. Super efficient, i ran it off a 9v battery in my shop for 3 days before it killed the battery.

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Heres a neat project for you to eliminate the 6v "buzz box" vibrating points type voltage regulator on the back of your instrument cluster. Only cost you a few dollars in electronics parts. Makes it solid state. With male spade terminals its plug n play. You have to find the 12v gage feed coming in from the harness, the 6v out, and the ground off the printed circuit.

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What i have found that works good on the printed circuit pins besides soldering them to the copper stripping is i buy small brass brads from the local hardware store that fit inside the hollow pins from the back. I get the ones where the diameter fits close but not snug, and cut the pointed ends off the brads if they are too long, then you can either epoxy, solder, or super glue them in place. It makes the pins almost indestructable. I used this method with a broken pin on my rallye dash circuit board. I took a pin from a late model dodge daytona turbo cluster, trimmed it down to the right height, and soldered it in place with a brad, and flowed solder from the pin to the stripping on the circuit board. Then i soldered brads on the back of all the rest of the pins, and flowed the pins to the stripping. If the pin heads stick out a little because they are a little rounded on the tops, you can file them a bit flat, and or grind a little recess in the back of your cluster housing so they dont short to ground. Or cover em up with a little silicone. My cluster housing has a recess in it, i believe moulded in from the factory. There was maybe 1/16" clearance.
 
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NOTE: The chip NTE960 used in the IVR (instrument voltage regulator) schematic requires 2 grounds. The wired ground, and a ground at its mounting tab otherwise it will not work. A finned heat sink is a good idea, and i put that in mind when i drew up the schematic, however later on i thought it may not be necessary. Reason being is this part is designed to take "up to" 35V input and then drop it down to a clean oscillation free 5.5 volts output. In this application we are only asking this semiconductor to take 13.5V max and drop it down to 5.5V, and in your application it only needs to do this with 2 instruments, your fuel, and water temp. Your volts gage is already 12V, so its really not working too hard.

To mount it, i would recommend to drill and tap a small hole on a flat spot on your aluminum die cast cluster housing that it can use as a heat sink and a ground. Use the white heatsink grease. I used a 4-40 tap, and a small machine screw for mine.
 
Since this car is your first "Yank tank" what did you used to work on before? I can see by your workmanship, your definitely no stranger around an automobile. Also as a Swede what do you think of the "ole Americans" overall specifically the MoPars? I mean i love em. I think they are easy to work on, easy to understand. Not cheap to buy for though lol.
 
moparmat2000 said:
Since this car is your first "Yank tank" what did you used to work on before? I can see by your workmanship, your definitely no stranger around an automobile. Also as a Swede what do you think of the "ole Americans" overall specifically the MoPars? I mean i love em. I think they are easy to work on, easy to understand. Not cheap to buy for though lol.
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I have always been interested in cars and I started with rallying 1988 in a Opel Ascona A. This photo is from one of the last races , just later we went into a ditch and the car was wrecked.
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Built a "new" Ascona B all by myself except for the roll cage which I got helped by a licensed welder.
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Rally career took an end in 2000. Family and house took all time and money and sold the car. But what to do without a project in the garage?
Started a build on a rusty Ascona B. The idea was a turbocharged engine based on a 2,0 litre Opel and body light as hell. Started fabricate parts in fibreglass.
Here is a link to that build KMA-Opeltuning If you scroll down to the bottom right of the page there is a text Äldre inlägg where you can go back to the beginning. I dont know , maybe you can translate the page.

I have always been fascinated of the old yanks and I have always wanted one. Got this Dart for about $6000 in 2014. I drove it two years 2015-16 and then teared it down 2017 as you can see in this thread. It was very priceworthy due to the rust and bad roof. I think after theese years I have owned the car , thank god I bought a MoPar. MoPar have SO many cool models compared to Chevy Ford etc. and very good aftermarket in parts. Dart is quite a small and light car and as a friend said to me visiting my garage "it looks to go fast though it is standing still". I dont regret my buy for one second due to all issues.
Only God know how much I am going to spend before finished :) So far in sheet metal and parts I have probably spent $10-12000 and still going :)
 
I dont add up the costs. I dont save reciepts. I dont want to know. Thats the best way. I also bargain shop the **** out of the internet. 15% off ebay sales sitewide i am there, 30% off at yearone why thank you. Yes the darts look like they are moving when standing still. With a fair amount of fiberglass, and aluminum parts you can trim one down to 3,000 lbs. Thats pretty light.

Mopar being the 3rd largest US automaker could never go head to head with GM or Ford. Their design and engineering department was only 1/10th the size of GM. Being that small you cant beat them head to head, you have to outflank them. And you do that with lots of innovation, and bad *** styling. With GM and Ford duking it out during the 60s, chrysler was able to steal market share that way.

I have 2 barracudas a 67 coupe, and a 69 coupe. The 69 i am collecting up parts for to do a restoration on with my son in a few years. He will have to put in sweat equity and a bit of his own money to own the car. My 67 is about 40% done. I work a lot so nothing ever happens. Plus we are in mid summer here. 108° F or 42.22° C in west Texas. I cut my lawn this morning at 7:00 AM while it was only 81°F or 27.22° C. Tinkered in my shop then realized i'm sweating and not doing anything strenuous. Time to go in the house. Yesterday i got in my car to leave work, it was 114° F - 45.55° C on my dashboard display. When the heat is like this you work early morning,.late evening, and stay inside in the middle of the day. Its like living in a roasting pan.

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moparmat2000 said:
I dont add up the costs. I dont save reciepts. I dont want to know. Thats the best way. I also bargain shop the **** out of the internet. 15% off ebay sales sitewide i am there, 30% off at yearone why thank you. Yes the darts look like they are moving when standing still. With a fair amount of fiberglass, and aluminum parts you can trim one down to 3,000 lbs. Thats pretty light.

Mopar being the 3rd largest US automaker could never go head to head with GM or Ford. Their design and engineering department was only 1/10th the size of GM. Being that small you cant beat them head to head, you have to outflank them. And you do that with lots of innovation, and bad *** styling. With GM and Ford duking it out during the 60s, chrysler was able to steal market share that way.

I have 2 barracudas a 67 coupe, and a 69 coupe. The 69 i am collecting up parts for to do a restoration on with my son in a few years. He will have to put in sweat equity and a bit of his own money to own the car. My 67 is about 40% done. I work a lot so nothing ever happens. Plus we are in mid summer here. 108° F or 42.22° C in west Texas. I cut my lawn this morning at 7:00 AM while it was only 81°F or 27.22° C. Tinkered in my shop then realized i'm sweating and not doing anything strenuous. Time to go in the house. Yesterday i got in my car to leave work, it was 114° F - 45.55° C on my dashboard display. When the heat is like this you work early morning,.late evening, and stay inside in the middle of the day. Its like living in a roasting pan.

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Gosh , thats HOT. Here in Sweden we have the best summer in years just over 30° C daytime. Watching my sisters cat this week and doing NOTHING. Beginning holiday on monday for three weeks. Next week friday Classic Car Week in Rättvik begins. Lots and lots of cars , MoPars At The Strip as a highlight , cruising , swapmeet , hillclimbing etc. etc.
Will spend as much time as possible in shop monday-thursday before going to CCW sanding down the paint on the untouched parts.
 
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