Swinging for Divorce…

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Pain in my ***… I bought the pre-bent brake lines for a manual disc because I didn’t want to bend or flare lines again. I wanted easy…

Well rear lines are for drums… I guess I have to make/flare them. This time I’m getting the good brake flaring tool…

Now I don’t want to work on it because I’m “frustrated.” lol

I may go out and start marking up the floor pan to install the floor shifter.

I also need to start dropping the engine and transmission

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I HATE bending and flaring, so I always buy pre bents of possible!! I have never had the good tools!!
Did I mention I hate flares!?????
I’m trying to decide if I want to use the tools I have (cheap flaring tool) or if I want to buy the good one.

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if it's the last car you'll ever build then struggle on with what you have. if there's more to come...... well you know the rest. :thumbsup:
neil.

Kind of what I was thinking…

Got this stuff when I was working on the purple car. It works but this copper line looks like ****! It’s super soft.

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Don't blame the tubing material. If you can't make nicop tubing look good, stainless is going to be a real challenge.

I’m definitely blaming the tubing material, my big muscles put to many dents in it.

I’m also not doing stainless, just OE steel.
 
My son bought that high dollar Eastwood flaring tool for his project car and left it at my house. Recently I needed to flare a custom brake line. That Eastwood tool made flaring so much easier.
 
I’m trying to decide if I want to use the tools I have (cheap flaring tool) or if I want to buy the good one.
If it was me, I'd pony up for a good one. I tried using a HF special, it sortakinda worked, but it was not inspiring of confidence. My buddy is a pro mechanic and loaned me one from MAC, it is a huge improvement. If you only need it a little bit you can sell the good one later to get most of your investment back.
 
there are good double flare tools like the one from eastwood and a little cheaper - shop around - I buy tubing from autozone and make my own lines - what works is patience and also using a piece of hard wire to make a mockup of what you are trying to do - also get a bender for 3/16" tubing - their out there you just have to look
 
I’m trying to decide if I want to use the tools I have (cheap flaring tool) or if I want to buy the good one.

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I have never had the good tool, and like said, the cheap one is BAD for an unskilled flare guy like myself!!!!! I can't always buy the pre bent stuff and when I can't, this old man just cries!!! At your age Doc, I would buy the good tool and practice for what it takes. Good tools last a lifetime!
 
Buy the correct tool. Be done with it. Redoing it 3 or 4 times is not saving you money with a cheap tool.

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Buy the correct tool. Be done with it. Redoing it 3 or 4 times is not saving you money with a cheap tool.

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This is the unit that I have at work. It has never missed and the flares are honestly better than the factory ends from the parts store. It has a double flare precisely squared away before you could have the cheap tool set up in the vice.
 
This is the unit that I have at work. It has never missed and the flares are honestly better than the factory ends from the parts store. It has a double flare precisely squared away before you could have the cheap tool set up in the vice.
I have project cars that did not cost that much!!!!!! But really, I agree, always buy the best tool that you can afford and that makes sense..It makes a difference IF the guy will be in the hobby for decades with many cars, or if he is a 2 week wonder, will buy a project and just take it apart and it sits for years before he sells it off!( because as they always say, "life got in the way!"
:thumbsup: :poke:
 
I have project cars that did not cost that much!!!!!! But really, I agree, always buy the best tool that you can afford and that makes sense..It makes a difference IF the guy will be in the hobby for decades with many cars, or if he is a 2 week wonder, will buy a project and just take it apart and it sits for years before he sells it off!( because as they always say, "life got in the way!"
:thumbsup: :poke:
If you have a mechanic shop or in auto restoration, buy the best tools. A onetime use, buy the part, ready to go. Last year I converted my 69' 340 Dart drum brakes into disc (front). Took me several hours to take down the KH set up to restore. Once apart, the inners were shot and I ended up buying the calibers redone, anyway. The remanufactured calibers work great. No more wasted time or bruised knuckles. If you do your own bending, stay away from the stainless steel. Never heard of a good outcome.
 
Flaring ends takes practice. I have had a Snap On flare kit for years that does a good job if I pay attention to every step and detail of the flare. I use it so infrequently that I practice on scrap tubing every time I need to use it, before I get down to the "make or break" point. With mine, it is critical to have the bar perfectly aligned and the tubing exactly as far through the bar as it should be, and no more, before pushing the first bubble on a double flare. After that is done correctly, the second part of the flare is cake. I had to use it a few weeks ago to make some single flares on 3/8 copper for compression flare on air lines when I added an after cooler to my new compressor. Took some practice for sure on that stuff!
 
Who really needs rear disc brakes!!????? :thumbsup: :poke:
Anybody that drives in modern traffic.
4 wheel disks stop so much faster than anything with drums.

I used to think the same thing, rear drums where fine, until I drove my modern Challenger, no comparison in stopping distance.
 
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