T6 turbo dart

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Loving your build, all very quality work!
On your aluminum welds, if you would like less arc erosion zone (the white next to the bead)
Try a bit of pre-heat (about 250f)
And turn the gas down as low as possible you can sometimes get as low as 3cfh, but around 10 should do the job.
BTW, what are you using for a welder?
Keep up the amazing work!
 
Houseoffubar said:
Loving your build, all very quality work!
On your aluminum welds, if you would like less arc erosion zone (the white next to the bead)
Try a bit of pre-heat (about 250f)
And turn the gas down as low as possible you can sometimes get as low as 3cfh, but around 10 should do the job.
BTW, what are you using for a welder?
Keep up the amazing work!
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will give that a try. I was trying to mess with the ac balance to reduce the cleaning zone but it wasn’t helping.
I’m using a Chinese AHP alphatig 200 off Amazon. Using a #8 gas lens on stainless and a #5 standard collet body on aluminum.
 
Jhayes357 said:
Thanks, I will give that a try. I was trying to mess with the ac balance to reduce the cleaning zone but it wasn’t helping.
I’m using a Chinese AHP alphatig 200 off Amazon. Using a #8 gas lens on stainless and a #5 standard collet body on aluminum.
Click to expand...
Very nice! I have a Miller Syncrowave 250 and REALLY want an inverter machine.
They weld aluminum much better.
How do you like the Alpha? I have not gotten to use one yet.

for sure the biggest thing is preheat to get the shiny weld and less arc erosion.
You are making some beautiful welds. Looking forward to seeing this all done
 
Houseoffubar said:
Very nice! I have a Miller Syncrowave 250 and REALLY want an inverter machine.
They weld aluminum much better.
How do you like the Alpha? I have not gotten to use one yet.

for sure the biggest thing is preheat to get the shiny weld and less arc erosion.
You are making some beautiful welds. Looking forward to seeing this all done
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t get another AHP. For what you need to spend in upgrades like The foot pedal/ ground clamp etc you could get an everlast, and for a little more an HTP made in Italy. The lack of stability in the arc has been extremely frustrating, as well the high frequency start not working half the time so you need to scratch start it. Of course we would all love a diversion though lol
 
Jhayes357 said:
I wouldn’t get another AHP. For what you need to spend in upgrades like The foot pedal/ ground clamp etc you could get an everlast, and for a little more an HTP made in Italy. The lack of stability in the arc has been extremely frustrating, as well the high frequency start not working half the time so you need to scratch start it. Of course we would all love a diversion though lol
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info!
A buddy has an Eastwood Tig $699 and it welds beautifully! Cheesy pedal setup, but it does amazing on aluminum.
I used a Dynasty for years and was not impressed, in that it does not weld better or even quite as good as the chinese machines I have used, and of course the Miller is now made in China (assembled in US) so I don’t feel any compulsion to hand them my money
 
Houseoffubar said:
Thanks for the info!
A buddy has an Eastwood Tig $699 and it welds beautifully! Cheesy pedal setup, but it does amazing on aluminum.
I used a Dynasty for years and was not impressed, in that it does not weld better or even quite as good as the chinese machines I have used, and of course the Miller is now made in China (assembled in US) so I don’t feel any compulsion to hand them my money
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I have one of the eastwood tig 200s and i love it. Does everything i ask it to do. I ran the stock pedal for years, you get used to it, but recently upgraded to their traditional style pedal and a 25' hose.
 
turboking15 said:
I have one of the eastwood tig 200s and i love it. Does everything i ask it to do. I ran the stock pedal for years, you get used to it, but recently upgraded to their traditional style pedal and a 25' hose.
Click to expand...
They are stunningly good for the money! And weld as good as any machine I have ever used.
 
Holes filled-ish and primer laid down. Using Eastwood chassis black and a harbor freight hvlp gun.

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Little before and after. Not my best work or my worst, so it’s perfect for this car.

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Motor and trans fresh and ready. Trans has been done for months but just got the motor back from the machine shop.
Fresh hone
New rings/ bearings
Gapped .024 and .024
Cometic MLS gaskets.
New turbo cam/ lifters from Hughes
All else is the same as the N/A setup from before.

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Also had a mishap with a pole since I didn’t chock the wheels in the driveway. Busted up the back end. I’ll do my best to pull the trunk straight and slap everything back together. Kind of the nature of the beast with this car and exactly why I never want to get it professionally painted. I want to drive it and have no regrets.

Used this opportunity to “upgrade” to fiberglass bumpers/ rear valence. Still looking for the right hood for this thing. Thinking six pack with a hole to clear the up-pipe.

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Looking good. Im going with the 6" tall 6 pack scoop just for cold air to blow over the intake to help keep it colder. I totally agree with not going an expensive paint job since its being driven on the road and at the track.

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Matts440 said:
Looking good. Im going with the 6" tall 6 pack scoop just for cold air to blow over the intake to help keep it colder. I totally agree with not going an expensive paint job since its being driven on the road and at the track.

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Did you just buy the scoop and glass it onto a stock hood or how did you go about doing that? Looks killer.
 
Yeah it come with 3m tape on the bottom but will also have to glassed on when I have it painted, just for extra holding it down. Its just resting on it now, still need to cut the hole in the hood. Mines the flexible plastic scoop not fiberglass. I'll look and see where I got it from.
 
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Anyone have recommendations for spark plugs? Seems like you ask 100 people and get 100 different answers but worth a shot to see if someone is already running a similar combo.

eddy heads
9.6ish-1 comp
Plan on 7-10lbs of boost.
 
I'll be running NGK iridium colder plugs, here's what they recommended:
BKR6EIX for 10PSI
BKR7EIX probably for 15-21psi
BKR8EIX for 22-25psi
 
Motor, trans, alt mounted. Solid motor mounts this time and the new driver side alt location.

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NGK 5671-9 Copper plugs.....

.026" gap 7-10psi
.022" gap 10psi +
 
In a hose building mood today, first time using PTFE and I’m not so great at it. Also my first time using regular AN hose that is nylon wrapped. I’ll never go back to regular stainless hose again.

Fuel pres regulator mounted
Catch can mounted
Fuel pumps hung with gaskets this time
Dual 6 to single 8 for the feed is complete.
Catch can lines made
Hose from reg to carb made

Took me all day just to do that, these little things burn time like crazy.

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Yeah black braided hose is sooooo much better to work with and doesnt tear up your fingers. Looks great
 
Something to keep in mind, if you plan on racing at a track you may not pass tech having the regulator mounted on the fire wall.
 
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