fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Do you know transmissions, or know someone that does? If so I'd take it apart and inspect it good before I went to the work of putting it in. If you do find a problem it'd be easier/cheaper to correct now.
TCI Transmission is bad
- Thread starter 68dodge
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Do you know transmissions, or know someone that does? If so I'd take it apart and inspect it good before I went to the work of putting it in. If you do find a problem it'd be easier/cheaper to correct now.
MrDuster
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear about the bad luck with TCI. I'm waiting for my 727 to come back from Keith Long at 727 Specialists (can google and he has cool pictures of Mopars). I know it's not expensive to put a kit in them as I had mine done for $150 years ago by a friend and it worked fine. Tranny hasn't been into for19 years and I decided it was time! Keith charges $900, but he replaces all the guts and paints it up nice is what I was told. Folks around here wanted $700-1200 and let me know some of the parts are getting hard to find??? Just don't have the time and decided to go with a guy who does nothing but build mopar transmissions ...I'll let you know who it goes. Shipping was $185 each way. Best of luck to you, Mark
straightlinespeed
Sometimes I pretend to be normal
Just wanted to give a update on my trans. A great member here Bronzebee, was willing to take a look at my TCI trans and let me know the status of it. Im glad I had him do it. The governor was jacked, Reverse servo cracked and band strut was bent. He said the governor being like it was would have been a major issue. He fixed all the issues and upgraded a few things for me. I should be good to go now!
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
NICE!
You're lucky to have a knowledgeable helpful person close.
Nice job Bronzebee.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Good lord. It's a Torqueflite, TCI... It's not a particle collider! If you own a basic set of tools, along with a dial caliper, feeler gauges and an internal snap ring plier for the tailshaft housing collar (i've seen people do that with two flathead screwdrivers), you can build an amazing transmission.
I've gone through four torqueflites for a few people. One with TCI's kit and had absolutely no problems with any of them. The first one that I did, had the TCI kit and after finding a local source that sold kits with Raybestos clutches in them for $90, I was won over on parts quality and price.
The TCI kit worked fine when I checked everything for thickness, inspected hard parts and replaced seals. It seems like their kits are ok, although a little overpriced and there are better parts out there for the same money or a little less.
After reading this thread, I will never purchase anything from them again, even to do my own work. These people need to start paying attention to simple inspection. If you inspect parts, measure your clutch, rings and snap ring thickness, snap ring gap and clean everything well, it's a basic install that simple mechanical knowledge can manage.
I don't understand how a torque converter could have destroyed a pump, unless it was installed wrong. The pump drives off of the grooves on the outside of the converter. If it doesn't engage, you have a hell of a time getting the transmission mated to the engine. That sounds like a snake oyl perpetuated line of crap coming from a rep trying to protect profits.
It makes me wonder if I should wire gauge my Comp Cams jets I just bought to make sure they stamped them right, if Comp Cams is placing outfits like this on the market.
I've gone through four torqueflites for a few people. One with TCI's kit and had absolutely no problems with any of them. The first one that I did, had the TCI kit and after finding a local source that sold kits with Raybestos clutches in them for $90, I was won over on parts quality and price.
The TCI kit worked fine when I checked everything for thickness, inspected hard parts and replaced seals. It seems like their kits are ok, although a little overpriced and there are better parts out there for the same money or a little less.
After reading this thread, I will never purchase anything from them again, even to do my own work. These people need to start paying attention to simple inspection. If you inspect parts, measure your clutch, rings and snap ring thickness, snap ring gap and clean everything well, it's a basic install that simple mechanical knowledge can manage.
I don't understand how a torque converter could have destroyed a pump, unless it was installed wrong. The pump drives off of the grooves on the outside of the converter. If it doesn't engage, you have a hell of a time getting the transmission mated to the engine. That sounds like a snake oyl perpetuated line of crap coming from a rep trying to protect profits.
It makes me wonder if I should wire gauge my Comp Cams jets I just bought to make sure they stamped them right, if Comp Cams is placing outfits like this on the market.
This brings up something I have been thinking about. With all the great guys we have on here with expertice in different areas, maybe we could come up with a new forum and members here that specialize in doing different repairs could list their area of knowledge and do some of the work for other members needing their service? I don't know if it is possible but I have done that for some of members here in the past setting up rear diffs.
Just like I have Guitar Jones doing the work on my 68 Dart, back halving,roll bar, tin work, tubs. He is a hell of a fabricator and I couldn't afford to have a chassis shop do everything that he is doing for me.
Just like I have Guitar Jones doing the work on my 68 Dart, back halving,roll bar, tin work, tubs. He is a hell of a fabricator and I couldn't afford to have a chassis shop do everything that he is doing for me.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
I wouldn't mind subletting services myself as well as for my shop, but I'm not one to plug without solicitation. I work at a restoration shop that deals primarily in Mopars and we're always happy to handle everything. I do all of the paint and body, electrical fab as well as the metal fab. My boss sublets interior stuff, transmissions and some engine stuff, because he wants to keep me on the build, but I do all of my own interior, transmissions and do things for friends of mine from time to time.
A list for resources would be great on a map. I use some people that I've know for some time, locally, for my machining work and patterns for sewing, but there are times where I'd like to see what else is out there for odd jobs that I've run into. I don't have a heavy sewing machine or bridgeport, but man I could use both around the house and shop.
A list for resources would be great on a map. I use some people that I've know for some time, locally, for my machining work and patterns for sewing, but there are times where I'd like to see what else is out there for odd jobs that I've run into. I don't have a heavy sewing machine or bridgeport, but man I could use both around the house and shop.
I think a map or list of members and their abillities would be a big help to the young guns and new comers to the hobby. I've help people in the past. One that comes to mind is a fellow that is a great tech and knows all about reading codes, FI, trouble shooting and is a mechanic. But he is 34 years old and had never rebuilt a carburator! I taught him how to rebuild a quadrajet. That just proves how old I am.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
It happens. Worked at two collision repair shops before I did restorations and one painter that had a tattoo of a '51 Mercury (dream car of sorts) had no idea how to replace an alternator, but could do anything with a paint gun?
I'm 32 at the end of this month. Not too old, but I've been painting cars since I was 17 and wrenching since 12. Helped my boss, who is 38, learn a lot of proceedures, so he does a lot of the mechanical stuff now. I've been restoring all of the stainless trim on a Studebaker over the past month. Tedious when it gets up to 5" wide, fixing dents and polishing, but it makes a huge difference on a resto.
I'd like a couple of bearings cut and pressed into some carburetors, for throttle shaft seal. I don't have the tools to that and I'd gladly go to someone here for it.
I think it would be awesome with the map, because you could go through things by proximity and specialty.
I'm 32 at the end of this month. Not too old, but I've been painting cars since I was 17 and wrenching since 12. Helped my boss, who is 38, learn a lot of proceedures, so he does a lot of the mechanical stuff now. I've been restoring all of the stainless trim on a Studebaker over the past month. Tedious when it gets up to 5" wide, fixing dents and polishing, but it makes a huge difference on a resto.
I'd like a couple of bearings cut and pressed into some carburetors, for throttle shaft seal. I don't have the tools to that and I'd gladly go to someone here for it.
I think it would be awesome with the map, because you could go through things by proximity and specialty.
If you guys can find another source for transmissions i would.The transmission for strightlinespeed is why TCI has a bad name,after you fry the transmission you sent it back to them on your dime and they say you installed it wrong and they want you to pay again to fix it.
The problem with straightlinespeed's transmission was clearly a build issue and i can't believe it made it past a test dyno.The govenor housing was out of a 1988 and up a500/518 which has large govenor bore,they installed a 727/904 governer weight in the large housing which had a 3/16 gap in the govonor bore!!
There is nothing in the transmission to demand that kind of money they are asking i would look elsewhere for your transmission needs.
The problem with straightlinespeed's transmission was clearly a build issue and i can't believe it made it past a test dyno.The govenor housing was out of a 1988 and up a500/518 which has large govenor bore,they installed a 727/904 governer weight in the large housing which had a 3/16 gap in the govonor bore!!
There is nothing in the transmission to demand that kind of money they are asking i would look elsewhere for your transmission needs.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I'd be in for helping, even though I'm 80 miles from the nearest member.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I wonder if they actually dyno them all of them like they claim, or maybe just one a day or something like that?? With the governor like that there's no possible way it'd ever shift to pass a dyno test. Makes a guy think their lying when they say their all dyno tested.
It was definitely tested,there was fluid in the valve body channels and the accumulator/actuator bores.
I figured for what they charge they would put in the manual valve for the converter charge in park.
They drilled some holes and jacked the main line pressure way up.
I figured for what they charge they would put in the manual valve for the converter charge in park.
They drilled some holes and jacked the main line pressure way up.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Governor valve rattling around in the large O/D bore! Brilliant. I'd like to see what they dyno these with. Makes you wonder, with all of the mishap parts installed, if they don't just put a quart of fluid in them after install.
I don't understand why you would put a large housing on a small governor set or how filling the tailshaft housing full of fluid with crazy leaking would help anything, other than losing fluid up hills and losing ability to govern line pressure with speed.
I don't understand why you would put a large housing on a small governor set or how filling the tailshaft housing full of fluid with crazy leaking would help anything, other than losing fluid up hills and losing ability to govern line pressure with speed.
J.L.Stubbs
New Member
I'm a little late to the party,but TCI has been a problem for me also.I purchased a big block 727 from them early in 2012 for my 1965 383 Coronet rebuild project.I've owned the car since 1983.I had upgraded to the 1966 and later trans years ago.I started a total vehicle rebuild in Feb. of 2012.I got the car running and drivable Thanksgiving 2012.Took it out for alignment and State Inspection sticker...about a 6 mile in town round trip...and it wouldn't shift into drive.First,second and reverse operated correctly but no third.I tried all the usual adjustments.I have the whole Lokar cable setup.No luck.I bought the trans directly from TCI and contacted them about the problem.They told me it was a stuck governor,informed me it was out of warranty and e-mailed me a page from Mopar Muscle magazine showing how to remove the tailshaft.I have rebuilt several Torqueflites in the past.The reason I bought this one from them is because I am now 64 years old and I didn't want to rebuild one again.I figured that buying a pro built transmission would be better at this stage of my life.Not so.I should have done it myself this time.I pulled the tailshaft housing and checked the governor.It was fine.I reassembled it all and no difference.I drove it last week and still no drive.I contacted TCI and now say they will warranty it if I put it on a pallet and ship it back to them.I am growing weary of crawling under the car.Could the problem be in the valve body?If so I would just bite the bullet and install a new one.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
I doubt it, but you can confirm what it is by checking the transmission with compressed air.
If you can get under the car (your favorite, I know) and remove the valve body, you can follow a factory Chrysler shop manual to put an air nozzle on each passage that they outline to check the functions of each circuit that the valve body operates.
The manual tells you what to look, feel and listen for.
My guess is that someone got lazy and didn't replace the 2-3 clutch pack seal or something isn't right with the front clutch pack (gaps between steel & clutch to piston snap ring, etc.)
The best thing you can do is the air pressure test, because it can rule out a valve body. If the trans functions properly, according to the test, it only requires removing the valve body and will tell you if it is a valve body.
It sounds to me like something got stuck, a seal wasn't installed correctly or something sprung apart.
If you can get under the car (your favorite, I know) and remove the valve body, you can follow a factory Chrysler shop manual to put an air nozzle on each passage that they outline to check the functions of each circuit that the valve body operates.
The manual tells you what to look, feel and listen for.
My guess is that someone got lazy and didn't replace the 2-3 clutch pack seal or something isn't right with the front clutch pack (gaps between steel & clutch to piston snap ring, etc.)
The best thing you can do is the air pressure test, because it can rule out a valve body. If the trans functions properly, according to the test, it only requires removing the valve body and will tell you if it is a valve body.
It sounds to me like something got stuck, a seal wasn't installed correctly or something sprung apart.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
If 1st, 2nd and reverse all work good that tells me all the major components are working so it's a good possibility it is a valve body problem. My guess would be a piece of trash has the 2-3 shift valve lodged. Even though you inspected the governor I'd do a governor hydraulic pressure test to see what it shows. Generally if the governor pressure goes up to 12-16 psi with the throttle pressure linkage unhooked and at rest it'll shift into 3rd gear. With the throttle pressure linkage at maximum it may take upwards of 60-70 psi for it to go into 3rd gear.
As for buying a new valve body, why don't you just disassemble and repair yours if it turns out to be the problem? Their not that hard to do.
If you do get to the step of dropping the valve body I'd definitely do the air pressure tests Dave mentioned just to verify things. I have that page of the factory manual scanned and can post it if you need it.
iScamp
Well-Known Member
I've only read part of this thread but, I'd like to mention Cope Racing Transmissions. CRT. John Cope knows MOPAR transmissions. That's all he does. Good service, thoroughly answered my questions, quality parts.
Total crap incorporated here in Australia too.......,
My buddy had major let go too with his (Drag race TCI T'flite #112000)
After buying it through Summit then loading it on a shipping container and some 12,000 odd miles on a boat the into the EFI Dart wagon...
Kapowwwww it lost drive after a measly 400 miles!
I pulled it down ( no end float clearance whatsoever ).
Full of metal from a chewed out oil pump that had machined itself internally !!!!
It has a very late input shaft too which is a contributing factor too !
It is a 78' case with an 83' extension housing
And a 74' valve body , talk about a bitsa !
Here at TCI Lets throw any old bits laying about together and paint it and sell It !
They have drilled both the fwd and middle accumulators through the case for drain/bleed ??
It must be due to the style of valve body set-up ??
I've always used A&A , TCS, CRT and SMR parts and never had a problem.
Basically it's a 727RB with a bolt in sprag with a full manual valve body!
I'll now start again for him !
Round II
My buddy had major let go too with his (Drag race TCI T'flite #112000)
After buying it through Summit then loading it on a shipping container and some 12,000 odd miles on a boat the into the EFI Dart wagon...
Kapowwwww it lost drive after a measly 400 miles!
I pulled it down ( no end float clearance whatsoever ).
Full of metal from a chewed out oil pump that had machined itself internally !!!!
It has a very late input shaft too which is a contributing factor too !
It is a 78' case with an 83' extension housing
And a 74' valve body , talk about a bitsa !
Here at TCI Lets throw any old bits laying about together and paint it and sell It !
They have drilled both the fwd and middle accumulators through the case for drain/bleed ??
It must be due to the style of valve body set-up ??
I've always used A&A , TCS, CRT and SMR parts and never had a problem.
Basically it's a 727RB with a bolt in sprag with a full manual valve body!
I'll now start again for him !
Round II
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Speaking of Round II...
My TCI has left it's last puddle!!!
F#$k you TCI!
My TCI has left it's last puddle!!!
F#$k you TCI!
ops:
chris_stevenson
Well-Known Member
i bought from them and atm having a problem with them so yeah
Total
Crap
Inside
???
I've heard more bad about that company than good.
Crap
Inside
???
I've heard more bad about that company than good.
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