The 1947 Dodge Build

[65 Dartman]

Your doing great progress on your car! Was there any rust issues on it?

Exterior - no major rust problems. The original trunk lid does have quite a few pinholes along the button BUT I bought a rust-free trunk lid when I was buying some trim from another 47 owner that friend and member FWDLK Frank told me about.

Interior - the floors are shot! Luckily, they are basically flat with a few stiffening ribs here and there. Nothing that my bead roller and sheet metal brakes can’t handle. I think the hardest part would have been extending the floors to and fabricating the rocket panels. Luckily I found a pair of NOS rocker panels on eBay.

 

[65dartcharger]

Some people do not do that - A lot do paint the writing “Fluid Drive” part of the bumper in red as well as the chevrons on the bumper guards. One step ahead of you my friend - the Fluid Drive and bumper chevrons will get painted red before installation probably this winter!

That will look great Don!

 

[65 Dartman]

Restoration Soecialties had the special football head bumper bolts in stainless steel that secure the bumper guards to the rest of the bumper. These are 3 & 1/2 in long and run $6 each. So I ordered the 4 I need. They also had the matching round head bumper bolts for the end panels and center of the main panel - 6 of them. Everything arrived today - another piece of the parts required puzzle solved.

EDIT: I noticed that those football head bolts didn’t come with washers nor nuts. I’ll pick up the stainless washers and nuts later

 

[Burt6666]

Restoration Soecialties had the special football head bumper bolts in stainless steel that secure the bumper guards to the rest of the bumper. These are 3 & 1/2 in long and run $6 each. So I ordered the 4 I need. They also had the matching round head bumper bolts for the end panels and center of the main panel - 6 of them. Everything arrived today - another piece of the parts required puzzle solved.

View attachment 1715231403

View attachment 1715231402

Looks great !!

 

[Rock Able]

Nice build! Keep up the great work, you will get there...eventually. I'm on 8 years with my Plymouth.

 

[65 Dartman]

More progress! Finally got the last machine screw holding the upper dash free from the dash - the nut behind the dash was just spinning. The 70 year old wiring was basically falling apart so I cut it to facilitate the dash removal. After removing a couple of bolts securing a pair of braces to the dash, out she came.

I’ll start removing all the components tomorrow in prep for doing some mods to use the Speedhut gauges I bought. I would like to get the dash woodgrained as original. I see the water transfer method being used more than the hand woodgraing method so I’ll have to look into that.

The base coat from the original woodgrainimg is still on the back side if the dash. Too bad a PO painted the dash and all the garnish moldings - more work (and money) for me.

View attachment 1715232547

 

[mopar head]

Avoiding all that rust repair? LOL

 

[65 Dartman]

Avoiding all that rust repair? LOL

Yes I know it's coming but with my limited mobility (legs and hips), it'll have to wait until I recover from a hip replacement later this year. Until then, I'll take care of things that I can actually accomplish - like the dash!

 

[65dartcharger]

More progress! Finally got the last machine screw holding the upper dash free from the dash - the nut behind the dash was just spinning. The 70 year old wiring was basically falling apart so I cut it to facilitate the dash removal. After removing a couple of bolts securing a pair of braces to the dash, out she came.
View attachment 1715232544
I’ll start removing all the components tomorrow in prep for doing some mods to use the Speedhut gauges I bought. I would like to get the dash woodgrained as original. I see the water transfer method being used more than the hand woodgraing method so I’ll have to look into that.

View attachment 1715232545

The base coat from the original woodgrainimg is still on the back side if the dash. Too bad a PO painted the dash and all the garnish moldings - more work (and money) for me.
View attachment 1715232546

View attachment 1715232547

Great progress Don! Those 30ies and 40ies usually do have some rust. I just remember my 38 Dodge....

 

[65 Dartman]

Got my stainless steel nuts and washers ordered today from Bolt Depot. Looks like they have anything one could desire in both stainless and regular as far as hardware is concerned!

 

[65 Dartman]

Also got the dash all torn down to the frame in prep for media blasting. There is some minor surface rust on the inside at the bottom but it’ll be easy to take care of. The brown on the inside is the base coat for the wood graining. The blue you see is where a PO decided to paint the dash and window molding.

Nice close-up of the original woodgraining, which goes horizontally across the dash.

The cloth insulation 71 year old wiring was basically falling apart. There were no fuses anywhere - just a circuit breaker protecting the headlights - safety first back then!

Speedometer which I won’t be using

And the center speaker/switch panel which I will be using with modern switches for headlights, wiper switch, etc

There’s a fairly local place - probably a home-based water transfer outfit - that I will need to check out to see if they can do the woodgraining. Progress, even it’s slow is better than no progress!

 

[65 Dartman]

Those following this thread might remember I ordered and received a set of Speedhut gauges - speedometer with built in tach and another gauge with a voltmeter, gas gauge, oil pressure and water temp gauges back in Feb 2018.

So I took a leap of faith that I could modifyi the dash to use these modern gauges. Was my ideas going to work - time to dig in and see if what I had envisioned could be brought to life.

From the OEM speedometer/minor gauge bezel, I remove the far left curved piece and speedometer part of the bezel. It wasn’t just cut them out, but measure, double and triple check the neasurenents before cutting. Then from a spare glovebox door that contains the clock, again cut out that part that holds the clock, which is the same size opening as the OEM speedo bezel. Then time to remove enough of the lock opening area to fill in between the the pair of round openings. Yes, I belive it’s gonna work! Still more minor trimming until everything fit like a glove!

With the Speedhut gauges sitting in place, it’s exactly what I had envisioned! I figure the little section with the hole (formerly for the glove box lock) ought to work for either the starter button as originally equipped or for the Overdrive ON/OFF switch for the A500. I still have to add some metal to the dash so I can secure the left round bezel and small center one to the dash.

So From this:

To this!

4 separate pieces to make what appears to be 1 bezel!

I’m looking at options for the space under the middle section - vacuum gauge, trans temp gauge or maybe an engine oil temp gauge?

 

[65dartcharger]

Those following this thread might remember I ordered and received a set of Speedhut gauges - speedometer with built in tach and another gauge with a voltmeter, gas gauge, oil pressure and water temp gauges back in Feb 2018.
View attachment 1715233431 View attachment 1715233432
So I took a leap of faith that I could modifyi the dash to use these modern gauges. Was my ideas going to work - time to dig in and see if what I had envisioned could be brought to life.

From the OEM speedometer/minor gauge bezel, I remove the far left curved piece and speedometer part of the bezel. It wasn’t just cut them out, but measure, double and triple check the neasurenents before cutting. Then from a spare glovebox door that contains the clock, again cut out that part that holds the clock, which is the same size opening as the OEM speedo bezel. Then time to remove enough of the lock opening area to fill in between the the pair of round openings. Yes, I belive it’s gonna work! Still more minor trimming until everything fit like a glove!
View attachment 1715233433

With the Speedhut gauges sitting in place, it’s exactly what I had envisioned! I figure the little section with the hole (formerly for the glove box lock) ought to work for either the starter button as originally equipped or for the Overdrive ON/OFF switch for the A500. I still have to add some metal to the dash so I can secure the left round bezel and small center one to the dash.

So From this:View attachment 1715233442

To this!
View attachment 1715233434
4 separate pieces to make what appears to be 1 bezel!

I’m looking at options for the space under the middle section - vacuum gauge, trans temp gauge or maybe an engine oil temp gauge?

You're doing great Don! That will look great.

 

[65 Dartman]

I’m looking at options for the space under the middle section - vacuum gauge, trans temp gauge or maybe an engine oil temp gauge?

Another option is to add a shift position indicator - probably a digital version. The steering column I will be using doesn’t have any provisions for a shift indicator. Seems like in Virginia it is required for an automatic!

 

[65dartcharger]

Speedhut offers any of the gauges I mentioned and will build them to match what I now have. If I went this route, I would probably go for the vacuum gauge.

Another option is to add a shift position indicator - probably a digital version. The steering column I will be using doesn’t have any provisions for a shift indicator. Seems like in Virginia it is required for an automatic!

A digital version might be the ticket for you. We have those requirements in Sweden too.

 

[65 Dartman]

The stainless steel nuts and washers arrived that I need to complete all the hardware for the special bumper bolts I already have on hand

 

[65 Dartman]

Got all the gauge bezel pieces mocked up in place as well as the center speaker/switch bezel and the glove box with the built in matching bezel for the clock. I guess I will have to live with the clock being recessed under the bezel where the 2 other gauges drop through the bezels and are secured with spin locks. Speedhut does not do a 4 inch clock; I suppose I could order their 2 & 5/8 clock, gut the factory clock and install the Speedhut clock. Thoughts?

There is a small 3 inch by 1 inch space between the two small bezels that are between the larger two that will be perfect for Dakota Digital’s DGS-12 LED automatic transmission shift indicator panel (not yet bought). The empty hole next to the speedometer is for the radio. Switches for Headlight, panel lights, wiper, windshield washer, factory map light and anything else will be installed in the lower switch area of the center speaker panel. Am now undecided whether to just paint the dash (leaning towards black) or spend the bucks to get it woodgrained along with at least the windshield molding. If anyone following along has any thoughts on this, let me know.

,

 

[ocdart]

Looks outstanding!
My opinion is...woodgrain it to help maintain the "factory" look. I think painting it will cheapen the look and lower the impact.
I'm a firm believer in "do it once and do it right" (one of the reasons why my '69 Dart still isn't on the road).

 

[65dartcharger]

Got all the gauge bezel pieces mocked up in place as well as the center speaker/switch bezel and the glove box with the built in matching bezel for the clock. I guess I will have to live with the clock being recessed under the bezel where the 2 other gauges drop through the bezels and are secured with spin locks. Speedhut does not do a 4 inch clock; I suppose I could order their 2 & 5/8 clock, gut the factory clock and install the Speedhut clock. Thoughts?
There is a small 3 inch by 1 inch between the two small bezels tat are between the larger two that will be perfect for Dakota Digital’s DGS-12 LED automatic transmission shift indicator panel (not yet bought). The empty hole next to the speedometer is for the radio. Switches for Headlight, panel lights, wiper, windshield washer, factory map light and anything else will be installed in the lower switch area of the center speaker panel. Am now undecided whether to just paint the dash (leaning towards black) or spend the bucks to get it woodgrained along with at least the windshield molding. If anyone following along has any thoughts on this, let me know.

View attachment 1715236739,

I think woodgraining the dash would make the dash stand out. Everybody will tell you what a nice looking factory touch you have. But a closer examination will tell all your great modifications!

 

[barbee6043]

I also have the hots for a 40's-50's old Mopar for some sort of rod. I admit I have not had time to read all 7 pages BT I will. I have this question. Did you ever do anything about changing the front suspension rear end. I saw on first page where it was mentioned the JMF body front suspension and the 711-4 B body rear or 8.8 Ford??
If I get one it will have to use the old frame and some modern f. suspension and I do have a good 318 4 speed for motivation.
Have you seen what a store bought frame, running gear costs!!! Where do people get that kind of $$$$ for their toys!?????

 

[65 Dartman]

I have this question. Did you ever do anything about changing the front suspension rear end. I saw on first page where it was mentioned the JMF body front suspension and the 711-4 B body rear or 8.8 Ford??

Thanks for asking! I have not done anything (yet) concerning the front or rear end. Many Members on the P15D24 forum have said that the 71/74 B Body 8.75 is a virtual drop in as the perches line up with the springs just fine. Others have used the 8.8 with mods - perches, long/short side mods etc. since most have disc brakes. I did buy a 71 B 8.75 with no pumpkin (I have one with 3.55’s and a Sure Grip) or brakes (I have a disc conversion from TSR which is similar to Dr Diff’s), so the rear end is pretty well covered. I understand the FMJ front end was pretty popular as it’s easily adaptable to these cars (and trucks). On that forum the conversion to R & P using a Cavalier rack is said to be easily doable as is using the stock spindles with a Rusty Hope disc conversion. There’are guys on that forum who says a pre-96 Dakota clip is easily done, but if any pics have been posted, I’ll be damned if I can find them.

If I get one it will have to use the old frame and some modern f. suspension and I do have a good 318 4 speed for motivation.
Have you seen what a store bought frame, running gear costs!!! Where do people get that kind of $$$$ for their toys!?????

I’m thinking along the same lines except I am using more or less what I have on hand. I have a 92 2 wheel drive Dak that could yield it’s R & P front clip and it’s 3.9/A500 drivetrain along with it’s computer and wiring harness and quite possibly it’s AC system. We’re quite aways from that point though.

 

[barbee6043]

Thanks for the info. Will you have to make your frame stronger? I guess it would be easy to box.

 

[65 Dartman]

Thanks for the info. Will you have to make your frame stronger? I guess it would be easy to box.

I will take a look later today as I “think” it’s already boxed. With the state of the floors, it will be easy to check. If they’re not boxed, it should be relatively easy to do even with the body on the frame.

 

[65 Dartman]

Will you have to make your frame stronger? I guess it would be easy to box.

I will take a look later today as I “think” it’s already boxed. With the state of the floors, it will be easy to check. If they’re not boxed, it should be relatively easy to do even with the body on the frame.

I took a look at the frame this afternoon through the holes in the extremely rusty floor. As I sort of remembered, the frame is boxed completely so it should be plenty strong enough.

 

[barbee6043]

Those early cars are sure plenty of a challenge. I have bout decided to sell off my rust free 79 volare. Great driver, impossible to find any car rust free today that has not been restored, BUT I crave doing a hotrod before I get too damn old!