Not sure how I missed this one. Really enjoyed it and nice car
A little update from today's activities. After driving the car to a local show on Friday evening, I got up this morning and put the new slicks on it and dropped the mufflers off it. Loaded it on the trailer and headed to the track. This was a test-n-tune day only but I wanted to shake down the new front suspension parts and alignment, try the new slicks, and knock the winter's rust off me too!!
The weather was perfect - mid to upper 70s and clear so I figured the engine would make good power. I also wanted to play with shift speeds to find the lowest I could go and still make a best number.
Let's start at the line...the track was either prepped better than ever or those new slicks were really biting! Here's an example - hanging the hoops on a little dry hop after the burnout!
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The new shoes:
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Some more shots of the SPC UCA's:
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But the best part was that on every pass made, the car went dead straight! No wandering and certainly none of the violent fishtailing and wanting to swap end for end like previously! Just plain old dead straight like a car with a spool should do!! So mission accomplished getting some positive caster and making a car that is stable. This will hopefully allow me to work on other things!
The car ran within 0.011 of its personal best on the next to last run. It went 11.157 and was within 0.01 mph of its personal best: 118.24 mph. Here's the timeslip since we all know it didn't happen without pics. I was in the left lane (hard to see but timeslips don't print all that great). I was really happy with this as the DA was close to 1700 at about 77 deg (the previous 11.14 best was run in 57-59 deg weather). I shifted it right about 6250 rpm for both gear changes.
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I thought I would make one more pass and believed it just might set a new best. But on the last pass, the shiftlight did not go off so I was shifting more by instinct than anything. On the digital replay later, I actually shifted it WAY too high (7000+ rpm!!) and the car slowed to an 11.20.
And like always, we met some new people and made friends! All in all, it was a great day at the track. We proved that physics do work - dialing in positive caster makes a world of difference!! And new slicks make you have to hang on more at the hit!!
Until next time...that was today's follies!
Thx Don. Kind of a "junior" version of your car: drove it to a local show Friday evening, drove it home, then took it to the track the next day and had at it.
Just not as fast as yours! My engine is power limited by the mild Eddie RPM heads. If things go well, there may be an 11.0x in this street car yet!
Thx Bill - hopefully the follies will continue and I can make it past the 4th round!! Lol
I enjoy your reads tremendously too. Keep'm coming. That's one bad Duster you have for sure!
No I'm not. The North Florida Motorplex is about 240 miles away and the just announced Callahan track (north of Jacksonville) is about 130 miles.Are you anywhere near that new track that is going to open in Florida
I started my drag racing 'career' at Gainesville back in the late 70s while stationed at NAS Jacksonville with the Navy. Also raced at the old 1/8th mile track at Jax Raceway just north of Jacksonville on Pecan Park Road. Long gone now.No I'm not. The North Florida Motorplex is about 240 miles away and the just announced Callahan track (north of Jacksonville) is about 130 miles.
I'm sw of Ocala about 30 miles. 65 miles to Gainesville, Raceway, 105 miles to Orlando Speedworld, and 134 miles to Bradenton Motorsports Park. Not ideal but Gainesville is a very easy drive.
Very nice job, I have absolutely no idea about wiring, for some reason I haven't learned that yet.Time for an update....here in Florida, the mid-June to early September timeframe is the "down time" for racing. Good time to catch your breath, and do those jobs on the car you've put off because you didn't want to have it down and miss some event.
So I've taken some time to update the instrument panel gauge set - or more accurately just move the gauges where I want them and get rid of the spaghetti harness the PO must have made. The gauge panel connects via a 12-pin connector so other than having to drop the steering column, it's relatively simple to remove it and work on it on the bench.
I moved the smaller gauges around to what I thought are more intuitive. Trans temp on far left, voltage next (that gauge is somewhat blocked by the steering wheel), and then the coolant gauge. I put the oil pressure gauge over on the far right where it's easy to see. The tach was never hooked up as I'm not a fan of having to look down at a tach if the loud pedal is in heavy use! (I have a mid-size tach up on top of the dash but even that is mostly useless at the track as I have a programmable shift light that stares at me and tells me when to shift.) And the speedo has never been hooked up and shall remain that way. Keep in mind this gauge panel and all the Autometer Sport-Comp gauges in it came with the car when I bought it as a roller in 2019. But after learning the MSD box can power both tachs, I went ahead and hooked up the dash tach.
Then I got rid of some of the indicator lights (they were all red) and their tacky white labels. Since there were 5 holes in the panel for them, I went ahead and got new LEDs for them (diff colors) and put back what I thought were somewhat useful ones (like Line-Lock, fan on, etc). Some are duplicate to my switch panel but I did add a coolant switch and wiring underhood to run a "coolant hot" idiot light. That way, if my eye isn't paying attention to the temp gauge, ole dummy here will hopefully get a light to remind him to turn on the fan(s)! (I switch the fans manually so they're only on when I want them on.) Lastly, I got some black lettering to label the idiot lights. The letters were bigger than I expected/wanted but, after paying for them, by golly they got used!
Here's the wiring for the panel at the start. I liked the lamp cord powering some of the various gauges/lights: Nope, that had to go! Before:
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After:
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It's a LOT of wires! 6 gauges, so + and - for their lights, their power, and then the signal wires for each. Then add the 5 indicator lights which get a signal coming in and a ground. Just lots of wires in a small space!
The finished product facing the driver:
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Ok, so what else to do? I'd like to hook up the vacuum advance on the dist for street driving. Maybe improve the fuel economy and generally make the motor happier. But the can that's in there adds too much spark so I'll have to either weld up a slot, change the can, or otherwise tame it down. We shall see...
One thing that has proven to be pleasant is that, so far, this car cools very well with its low-budget Champion radiator and dual electric puller fans. Florida 95-98F days and it can be driven wherever whenever. I wish my show pony 71 Demon 340 cooled like this (it doesn't!) but we'll have to see if a new Glen-Ray rad for that one will be the ticket. But I'll save that for a different thread!
Looks bad *** nowHow about another update? Not a whole lot to tell but here goes for those that care to read it. I share simply so others who may deal with similar things can see the antics I go through while I enjoy the heck out of this car.
The car was back to the Gainesville track on September 7. Every so often on that day, a VERY few sprinkles would fall. Not enough to hardly see on your windshield but you could feel them. They were dry and gone by the time you blinked. This led to ENDLESS delays with no communication from the tower as to what they were doing. At 4:45 pm, they announced a driver's meeting for 5:00. Jodi, who runs the track for the NHRA, said they had been concerned about safety all day and just decided not to run anything. Really? For an almost imperceptible amount of moisture? I'm not buying it! So they gave out refunds. So we had left the house at 7:30a and got home around 7:00p and never made a pass. Just marvelous....
Took it back there again on Oct 19 (the next and ONLY bracket race until 2025!). The track photographer snapped this pic.
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It was around 80F to start with a 15-20 mph wind coming at you at 30 degrees. By later in the day, the temp fell to around 66F. So about 1450DA to start and a 680DA at the end. My RT's were NOT good. It's either me or the car but an .068 was my best and a .119 my worst. Lost in the 2nd round with the .119 (got what I deserved as his RT was .006). Tried to push him out the back door and get on the brakes late and went a new PB et (barely) at 11.102 (11.13 dial). I had scrubbed about 7-8 mph off it in the first round to prevent a breakout so I'm guessing I took off maybe 3-4 mph on this one. No timeslip to show it but I suspect it would have been an 11.0x. Better luck next time! But given all the street driving and putt-putting around all summer, I was glad to see the car come back and post a new best. Exciting to me!
So something that has bothered me since I got this rolling chassis in 2019 was the rear-end sits too high for my liking. It looks OK with the slicks on it but with the P295/55R15 MT street tires, it looks jacked up in the back. The car has a Caltrack rear suspension setup with split mono springs. The proper way to lower the rear would be to change out the rear leaf spring halves. But the p/n of what is on there has long worn off so I wouldn't know what to order. But...the car has a front spring hanger bracket with an upper and lower hole, about 1-1/4" apart. Since the front eye bolt was using the lower hole, making the car sit higher, I thought I'd try to lower it just by moving the front spring eye bolt to the upper hole. But that got me to thinking about the pinion angle and not wanting to screw it up. And I have to add that the boss says "Why mess with it? The car hooks and leaves without issue now so who cares if it sits too high!" Well...I just better not screw this up!!
So I measured up the angles and found the car to have less than 1.5 degrees of offset from the trans to the pinion. That assumes a 2 degree pinion rise on the hit. Since less than 2 degrees offset is the target, I figure the car is pretty good. The math says that moving that spring eye would put me well outside of this 2 degree target. So I talked to John Calvert about what I was doing and if adding some shims was the right thing to do. He agreed so I got some of his 2 degree shims and had at it. Well, when you add shims, the center bolt is no longer long enough to go up into the perch so I had to disassemble the leaves and put in the longer center bolt. And if course while you're at it, you can't just put it back together but instead, you have to clean and paint up the parts you're working on! So a small job turned into something quite a bit more involved.
After all this, I put it all back together and made 3 hits in the driveway (not sure the neighbors saw the humor in that!). I wanted to be sure the slicks still had plenty of clearance and the U-bolts were well seated and not going to move. So the boss video'd it and I found no issue with clearance or bolt torques or anything. The whole thing dropped the rear of the car 1-1/2" as measured at the rear wheel center from the ground to the quarter panel. I did all the angle measurements again and lo and behold, the pinion angle is now between 0 - 0.1 degree off! I didn't expect it to be that good but I'll certainly take it!! It can't hurt! Here is a pic of the axle with the shims installed:
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So I put the street tires on it so we can drive it around to cruises and whatnot until I prep it for the track again in January.
I think it looks much better but the REAL question is will the car still hook up and leave at the track as before? Time will tell when we're back at the track come January.
Here's some before and after pics. I don't have any perfect A versus B shots but these will somewhat show the results.
With the slicks:
Before (and before the stripes were added too!):
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After:
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With the street tires:
Before:
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After:
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So there you have it...will it hook like before or will I have a serving of crow and be back under the car moving that spring eye back where it was? We shall see....!!
Just curious, What the fender lip to ground measurement currently in the back?So there you have it...will it hook like before or will I have a serving of crow and be back under the car moving that spring eye back where it was? We shall see....!!
Roughly 29-1/4" to 29-5/8". I say roughly as it seems to vary a bit depending on what day I measure it and how the car was last stopped (ie. hard brake apply or not).Just curious, What the fender lip to ground measurement currently in the back?