The 8 1/4 thread

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Geardaddy- thank you, yes I think I am going to plug Dana 35 internal into an 8.25. I will advise as I go. I bought one with a locker, 3.73s, brakes and all the plumbing, so really if do not plug the internals in, I feel I am in a good position financially with the brakes and plumbing. I trust it will fit as stated above, however my concern would be strength and longevity behind the Gen III.
 
I never caught the ring gear have always done the swap with the gears, mostly 3.55's
 
Crap...This thread is information overload.
I do not know any more now than I did when I clicked on this.
 
Ok, so I scanned this and did not see this. Correct me if I'm wrong. This thread is talking about the carriers basically, not the entire housing? Reason I ask is I recently saw a 98 Cherokee 8.25 rear end with 3.55s for sale not too far away. Drum brakes. Seeing if it would just require perch relocation or if it had to be shortened too.
 
In 2008 I bought a '74 Duster with a 2.45 geared 8 1/4" axle. Later I pulled a 3.55 SG diff from a Dakota 4wd. Even with limited skills, I switched the diff and gears into the axle and it all fit and worked. THIS tells me that the axle housings and center section of those two were at least compatible. It also leads me to understand that it is the differential itself that is different.
 
Kern Dog said:
In 2008 I bought a '74 Duster with a 2.45 geared 8 1/4" axle. Later I pulled a 3.55 SG diff from a Dakota 4wd. Even with limited skills, I switched the diff and gears into the axle and it all fit and worked. THIS tells me that the axle housings and center section of those two were at least compatible. It also leads me to understand that it is the differential itself that is different.
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someone else in this thread reported getting lucky and getting it to work with a spacer and some bearing changes I think, but that's pretty rad.
 
I have had two different carriers that were definitely different. when set on end side by side you could see with the naked eye one was taller than the other where the ring gear bolts on. There was talk of two different housings? I never bought into that.
 
Minor update - I am in the process of installing the Dana 35 items in the 8.25. As I pulled both apart, everything lines up nicely with the exception of the pinion. I looked back through this threads (Post #4) and realized there are two types of carrier bearings for the 8.25, a 2.8 and and 3.2. Well I have the 3.2 type and the Dana 35 is a 2.8 type.

With that said, the issue is - WHAT carrier bearing do you use, is there a part number for the Dana 35 to 8.25's 3.2 bearing?

I would believe this bearing size is probably part of the debate for different 8.25's and the respective offset.

My deduction - unless this bearing is identified, owners of the 3.2 bearing 8.25's are SOL for gear and LSD swap's. People with 2.8's bearings should swap with no issue?

I now have a Dana 35 LSD with 3:73's for sale for anyone who has a 2.8 8.25 setup.
 
jrc4y4 said:
Ok, so I scanned this and did not see this. Correct me if I'm wrong. This thread is talking about the carriers basically, not the entire housing? Reason I ask is I recently saw a 98 Cherokee 8.25 rear end with 3.55s for sale not too far away. Drum brakes. Seeing if it would just require perch relocation or if it had to be shortened too.
Click to expand...

From research A-body 8 1/4 width (flange to flange) is about 51.4 inches or so. I think 8 3/4 was the same.
XJ Cherokee axles are slightly wider by around 3 inches or so.
And yes you will need to weld perches on.
Some more info to help a little Jeep Cherokee Rear 8.25
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I have had two different carriers that were definitely different. when set on end side by side you could see with the naked eye one was taller than the other where the ring gear bolts on. There was talk of two different housings? I never bought into that.
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post#3 shows the difference
 
I may be in the market for an 8.25.
Is there a list of donor cars/trucks I should be looking for?
What I am trying to do is find the least expensive path to replacing my 7.25 that is currently in my 68 barracuda with SBP. I have a 8.75 SBP and a 7.25 BBP. If I keep my 8.75 I need to buy axles with BBP (Dr. Diff) But if I can find a 8.25 with BBP then I can sell my 8.75.
So long story short.
What donor cars should I look for to swap an 8.25 with BBP into a 1968 barracuda that currently has a 7.25 and a 904?

Thanks
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Why on earth would you not buy BBP axles for you 8 3/4? Dr Diff sells them for 300.00.
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$300 American is about $410 Canadian plus I have an offer for the 8.75 of $350 $750 so if I can locate a 8.25 with BBP for $100 I am $650 ahead. Money left over for new wheels
 
Must be Canadian math. If you sell the 8 3/4 for 350.00 and you can find a 8 1/4 for 100.00 which will more than likely be a 2.45 open , you saved 250.00 for less of a rear end.? But hey it’s your car.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Must be Canadian math. If you sell the 8 3/4 for 350.00 and you can find a 8 1/4 for 100.00 which will more than likely be a 2.45 open , you saved 250.00 for less of a rear end.? But hey it’s your car.
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Yes that is true but like I said if I got an 8.25 then I could sell my 8.75 to someone that is after it already for $350. So $350 for the 8.75 plus I'd be saving $300 American which is in actuality (at today's rates) around. $410. $410 plus the $350 I'd get for the 8.75 is actually $760 minus $100 for the 8.25 that already has a BBP. Basically if I keep the 8.75 I need to spend $410 for the Dr. Diff axles. Just to be at the same point as spending $100 on an 8.25 that already has the BBP. So right there I am up $310 then I sell my not needed anymore 8.75 for $350 which puts me at $610.

That kinda math.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Like I said use guys do dat fuzzy math, eh.
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Haha. Yeah also I'm only building about 350 hp so I figure the 8.25 is good for that plus it's not as heavy and not as much go needed to drive the 8.25 axle. But I am definitely sticking with the 8.75 if the savings aren't enough
 
Bronze Barracuda said:
Haha. Yeah also I'm only building about 350 hp so I figure the 8.25 is good for that plus it's not as heavy and not as much go needed to drive the 8.25 axle. But I am definitely sticking with the 8.75 if the savings aren't enough
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350hp? Budget minded? Personally I'd have the 8.75 axles redrilled for LBP for now. Take it easy save up your money and swap them out later. JMO
 
Kern Dog said:
Most A body 8 1/4" axles have crappy highway gears and no SG.
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Alright thanks for this info. I am very ignorant about the 8.25. figured this thread would help me out. I did not know about the crappy gear ratios. I think the guy that's been asking about my 8.75 is going to be upset. Oh well. That's life. Thanks. I have the front disks out of a 76 dart so I was trying to find the least expensive way to go to BBP out back.
Curious how many out there are using BBP up front and SBP out back?
Maybe a question for another thread?
 
Most 7 1/4" axles that I have seen were 2.76 which is bad enough but the 8 1/4" axle often had 2.45 gears. Talk about sluggish performance off the line!
 
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