Vinegar grown without antibiotics and fertilizer, insecticides!!!!! ha such BS! ha!
I wish I was born 50 years ago so I could walk around in a daze punching my cell phone with my thumbs all day!!! ha gain!
The Power of Apple Cider Vinegar for Rust Removal
- Thread starter MileHighDart
- Start date
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Vinegar grown without antibiotics and fertilizer, insecticides!!!!! ha such BS! ha!
I wish I was born 50 years ago so I could walk around in a daze punching my cell phone with my thumbs all day!!! ha gain!
We didn't have cell phones back then, I could go on but I wont.
Okay here it is coming out of the neutralizing tank.
After pressure washing it had a light film of black on it. That I have been wiping off with a clean rag.
After pressure washing it had a light film of black on it. That I have been wiping off with a clean rag.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
So that's the same block that was in post 66 of this thread? Wow!
No that is the second block.in 66
26, 62, 63, 78 are the first block
The second block in 66 was a barn find that I bought sight unseen with 5 stuck pistons. Two I managed to wiggle out. The other 3 were stuck tight untill it soaked for 48 hours. When I pulled it out of the vinegar 1 of the 3 came loose.
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Ha.... I was born 70 yrs ago!!!!! Off rust topic ... but how did we survive back then with out car seats, Ralph Nader, cell phones, internet, and GPS!???
I bet non organic vinegar, the cheapest I can find will work!
scott657
Well-Known Member
Just tried the apple cider vinegar on some 50 year old front end parts.
Best non toxic remover I have ever tried.
Best non toxic remover I have ever tried.
snailpower
Well-Known Member
don't know if anyone has seen this but I found it pretty interesting.
Curiosity got the best of me. Had some drum brake parts from my 8.75 to clean up. Let these soak for about 30 hours in apple cider vinegar and I was very surprised. Had a few stubborn spots that I rubbed off with my fingernails. Before and after pictures attached.
An update on my last block with the stuck pistons.
I let it soak for a long time and pulled it from the tank every now and then. Got 1 of the 3 pistons out. Then last saturday was able to get the other 2 out.
I dropped in to the calcium carbonate tank to neutralize the vinegar.
I will pull it out of that in a couple days and take it to the Machine Shop to have it checked.
In the one picture you can see the rust on the cylinder wall that was between piston and the block.
The number 1 and 3 caps show a light coat of rust from being out of the tank and air drying before I could dry them.
I let it soak for a long time and pulled it from the tank every now and then. Got 1 of the 3 pistons out. Then last saturday was able to get the other 2 out.
I dropped in to the calcium carbonate tank to neutralize the vinegar.
I will pull it out of that in a couple days and take it to the Machine Shop to have it checked.
In the one picture you can see the rust on the cylinder wall that was between piston and the block.
The number 1 and 3 caps show a light coat of rust from being out of the tank and air drying before I could dry them.
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Be aware muratic acid will eat the heck out of steel!!!!!! And MUST be neutralized too!!!!!!!!
That cleaned up great, I have an old 340 I need to de-rust and get some piston out of.
I bough a feed trough, and was going to try a molasses soak after the winter thaw.
These have been my experiences.
Acid dipping is a destructive rust removal process. It will eat away base metal including machined surfaces that need to be size. It also needs to be neutralized.
Electrolysis is non destructive using washing soda as a conductor mixed in water with a dc power source and a sacrificial annode. There are numerous examples of this on YouTube.
I have been experimenting with it the last year on and off. It’s a slow process. To speed it up use warm or even hot water. A continuous dc power source is better than one that pulses like a battery charger. If you use a carbon annode you will not get the scum floating on top of the water, rust just falls to the bottom of the container.
After I pull them out I rinse in water and coat with bill hirsch’s rust preventative or lps rust preventative.
Acid dipping is a destructive rust removal process. It will eat away base metal including machined surfaces that need to be size. It also needs to be neutralized.
Electrolysis is non destructive using washing soda as a conductor mixed in water with a dc power source and a sacrificial annode. There are numerous examples of this on YouTube.
I have been experimenting with it the last year on and off. It’s a slow process. To speed it up use warm or even hot water. A continuous dc power source is better than one that pulses like a battery charger. If you use a carbon annode you will not get the scum floating on top of the water, rust just falls to the bottom of the container.
After I pull them out I rinse in water and coat with bill hirsch’s rust preventative or lps rust preventative.
daves66valiant
68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100
I repurposed our Dr Browns baby bottle sterilizer and use vinegar in it to clean nuts and bolts. Works great. Heats up the vinegar and I think it helps remove stubborn sludge.
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I tried the electrolysis method using a fence T post has my rod and the engine block as my piece to pull the rust from. I used a 12 volt deep cycle battery with a battery charger hooked to it set for 15 amps. It worked great.
The vinegar method I like because you do not use electricity. Although I am using a fountain pump to circulate the liquid in the tank.
if this worked well for you, try it with a carbon anode. any tool and die shop has this material is scraps. this is the material they use EDM machining. once they are done with its hazardous waste and they have to pay to get rid of it. they will be happy to give it to you, just tell them what you are going to use it for.
one question, does using a battery along with the charger give constant current or will it still pulse?
The battery gives steady current and the charger keeps the battery charged.
Works really good with a deep cycle battery.
Works really good with a deep cycle battery.
going to try it with the battery, still planning on buying a laboratory grade constant power dc power supply though. so much of the stuff I de-rust I just don't want to corrode away any more than the rust has already.
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Are you talking about using a pulse-width modulator or what we call a chopper? They are great for dc motors but I don't know what the results would be in this use.
I'm not following you with the "chopper", I'm not a electronic guy. a friend of mine is a master electrician and he told me continuous power might work better. I showed him models of power supply's for sale on amazon and EBay and he said yes like those. all those are made in china and of course all the ones he has are older models made in the USA.
I'll run the pulse-width modulator thing past him and see what he says. like I said in my original post, I have been experimenting for the last year or so with it. I do know that there are businesses that treat metal like this on a large scale including some that do cars only and they use proprietary chemicals but I do not know where to get them.
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A chopper turns the dc on and off very fast to get the surge of the power that comes with the powering on.
Kind of like a one side of ac current.
So then ur saying there is a Vanishing Point. Lol. Kim
ragtopfury
Well-Known Member
Only if you soak a Challenger, Kim.
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