Throttle for 64 Dart Help

-
chinze57

chinze57

Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die
Joined
Nov 6, 2019
Messages
454
Reaction score
102
Location
Georgia, USA
Hey I’ve got a 4-barrel Holley on my /6 In the 64 dart. How do I hook it up to the pedal inside so it works and the A/T kickdown works?

I’ve searched around and it looks like he 318 V8 pedal assembly is correct? If so, does anyone know where I can find one?
Alternatively, is there another pedal assembly that will work? Maybe a lokar assembly?

any help appreciated.
 
Okay, not a /6 expert, so someone correct me if I'm wrong.
The early A slant with A/C also used a cable throttle and pedal, so the same donor should be able to supply a workable trans kickdown linkage to adapt to the 4bbl... ?
 
Professor Fate said:
Okay, not a /6 expert, so someone correct me if I'm wrong.
The early A slant with A/C also used a cable throttle and pedal, so the same donor should be able to supply a workable trans kickdown linkage to adapt to the 4bbl... ?
Click to expand...

no donor car unfortunately. Car didnt have factory a/c and had a Carter bbl.

The 225 was the same.
 
@chinze57 I put a 2 barrel Holley in my 75 Valiant /6 and used the Lokar throttle cable and KD cable with stock pedal and it works well

Throttle here>>>>>>>>>>>
KD For 727 here>>>>>>>>>>
KD For 904 here>>>>>>>>>>

Not the best image of it but you can see them there on the right before I trimmed them to length
20200527_152245.jpg
 
Last edited:
Dart fan said:
Question about the cable bracket you used.
Do you know the part number for that ?
Click to expand...
Link here>>>>>>>>>>>

EDIT: here is a close up picturei just ran out and took. The Lokar AT kickdown cable comes with a little bracket I attached that in an upwards position secured by the kickdown nuts. This allowed me to run the throttle cable through the top of the smaller bracket more in line with the carb. After a couple different positions I found this caused the least resistance. Also, you definitely need to trim the cable housing or there will be too much bind on the pedal - make sure to pull the ferule BACKWARDS on the housing before cutting with a cut off wheel... If you take it off good luck getting it back on! A shot of dry lube down the housing is a good idea.

IMG_20210215_085832.jpg
 
Last edited:
EDIT 2: the throttle cable comes with parts for different pedal assemblies. If using a stock pedal I found trimming the arms off this piece (first pic below) with a cut off wheel and using it as a "washer" on the stock pedal (second pic below) stops the cable termination from "digging in" or in worst case pulling through the cable hole on the stock pedal.

IMG_20210215_091419.jpg

IMG_20210215_091213.jpg
 
Oh man you justanswered my next question!
I really appreciate your help.

This forum has been a great resource.
Thank you FABO!
 
Dart fan said:
Oh man you justanswered my next question!
I really appreciate your help.

This forum has been a great resource.
Thank you FABO!
Click to expand...

FABO is a fantastic resource. So many knowledgable people.
I'm happy I could help. I had a lot of trial and error on this with decent drive time in between. The little recommendations I have are the minor improvements I've made along the way that made a big difference in using these specific Lokar parts... of course more experienced FABOs would probably know it all from the get go... but hey I'm learn'n :)
 
theFightingFew said:
FABO is a fantastic resource. So many knowledgable people.
I'm happy I could help. I had a lot of trial and error on this with decent drive time in between. The little recommendations I have are the minor improvements I've made along the way that made a big difference in using these specific Lokar parts... of course more experienced FABOs would probably know it all from the get go... but hey I'm learn'n :)
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. Probably saved me some trial and error
 
A couple other things i just thought of...
I added some washers where the throttle cable goes in to through the firewall (first pic) though I think I want to add one more larger washer behind it to grab some more metal on the firewall.
IMG_20210215_101429.jpg


The Lokar Throttle cable to carb connector is closed at the one end where the ball stud connects to the carb (pic 1). I thought about drilling out the end to pass the cable through to make adjustment easier but the cable could interfere with the ball stud so I didn't... so to give the most flexibility when connecting to the carb roll out the gold end leaving around .125"-.25" inside the nut (pic 2) to cut the cable (don't use snips or it will fray - use a cut off wheel) with maybe .25"-.5" (somewhere in there) sticking out (pic 3).
1
IMG_20210215_102513.jpg
2
IMG_20210215_102333.jpg
3
IMG_20210215_102506.jpg


Now to get that length this will obviously have to be on the carb. On my Holley 2 barrel I used this location...
IMG_20210215_101316.jpg

So I had the throttle closed and pulled the cable as tight as i could with pliers to mark the cut while holding the silver par and the gold part inline as best as possible (cut marked and made like pic 3 above)... then tighten the hex nut down and thread gold into silver and tighten the gold lock nut... I found this gives the most flexibility for loosening/tightening... accounting for cable stretch etc... always trim the cable longer until you know what you want to do exactly... you can't add it back on!

IMG_20210215_101332.jpg


The only other thing - the springs that come with the kit are great but I found were a bit too long to adequately close the throttle effectively when you're off pedal... which is f'n scary when driving :) so a little bend and trim with a touch of preload may be necessary... the spring is attached to the little tab that comes with the Lokar return bracket. It is held in place by the AT kickdown cable stud and nut - see it popping out below...
IMG_20210215_101339.jpg


it ain't the sexiest thing... but it's been working great :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top