Throwout bearing . To clutch adjustment

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moparisbest

moparisbest

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When setting the bearing in relation to the clutch . Do I set it against the clutch fingers are do I set it away from the fingers . The clutch is the center force .
 
Well, that's not really how you go about adjusting a clutch. I have a way of adjusting a clutch, with an old mechanical linkage, that I came up with and I use.

Most here would probably think my way was stupid but it gives me exactly what I'm looking for, every time.

Some adjust for free-play, others use a feeler gauge between the clutch disc and flywheel while the clutch is engaged.

So here is my way.....

*First, put the rear of the car up on jack-stands with the rear wheels off the ground.
*Next, find a heavy object to hold the clutch peddle to the floor. (I have found that my wife works well for this.)
*Now what you do here is start adjusting the clutch rod that attaches to your clutch fork. You want to find the spot where it changes from not being able to turn the driveline by hand to where you can turn the driveline by hand.

(This point is usually found right after my wife starts bitching about her leg being tired.)

As soon as I can turn the driveline by hand I give the adjuster an extra turn and call it good.
 
Possibly 340. Depends on the bearing .I usually use,1" free play at the pedal. However,Richard Ehrenberg, quoted " newer bearings,don't need it". Myself,the 1" inch free play holds,if the clutch linkage, in proper operation. My .02 cents.
 
So the bearing rides against the clutch fingers are not . I don't want the bearing to go out prematurely . My thanking is if its against the fingers it will be just like setting your foot on the pedal ?
 
If the bearing rides against the fingers, causes premature wear on the pressure plate an friction disc.This us known, as premature clutch wear. The accepted method, was 1" of movement, on the clutch pedal,before it gets stiff(engaged) Engaged all the time,wears parts QUICKLY.
 
Thanks a body bomber . That's what I was thanking just wasn't sure .
 
Make sure you have the spring on the clutch fork in place, it is supposed to pull the fork preventing the bearing from touching the fingers when the clutch is released, preventing wear on the release bearing...
 
I just replaced the 3 speed OD with a rebuilt 4 speed.
No matter how I adjust the Linkage I can't get the throw out bearing off the pressure plate fingers!
I only replaced the trans. The bell, clutch and linkage were not replaced.
I have a McLeod super Street Pro Clutch kit.
Ant suggestions?
 
moparisbest said:
So the bearing rides against the clutch fingers are not . I don't want the bearing to go out prematurely . My thanking is if its against the fingers it will be just like setting your foot on the pedal ?
Click to expand...

The bearing should not ride on the fingers. I prefer to remove the inspection cover and look.. tmm
 
I have a McLeod super Street Pro Clutch 9was in the car when i bought it) not sure if its part # 75238 or 75209.
It is a diaphragm pressure plate, from what Ive been reading it should be a borg and beck.......Correct?
Can you adjust the diaphragm pressure plates to get the throw out bearing off the fingers?
 
DA4AD said:
I have a McLeod super Street Pro Clutch 9was in the car when i bought it) not sure if its part # 75238 or 75209.
It is a diaphragm pressure plate, from what Ive been reading it should be a borg and beck.......Correct?
Can you adjust the diaphragm pressure plates to get the throw out bearing off the fingers?
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter if you run a diaphragm or borg and beck style.
 
The McLeod Street Pro 75109 I have is a Diaphragm. Summit shows the Super Street as a Diaphragm as well. They likely use the same pressure plate as the clutch discs have different media. I will be adjusting mine today or tomorrow and will post feedback. Mine likes to shift hard and the clutch pedal doesn't return because my dad believes in the 1" slop rule.

My truck did the same thing (dad adjusted it...) until I ran the bearing up to touch the pressure plate then backed it off by feel of the pedal. Works great now.
 
dano said:
The McLeod Street Pro 75109 I have is a Diaphragm. Summit shows the Super Street as a Diaphragm as well. They likely use the same pressure plate as the clutch discs have different media. I will be adjusting mine today or tomorrow and will post feedback. Mine likes to shift hard and the clutch pedal doesn't return because my dad believes in the 1" slop rule.

My truck did the same thing (dad adjusted it...) until I ran the bearing up to touch the pressure plate then backed it off by feel of the pedal. Works great now.
Click to expand...

If you run the diaphragm you have to take the big spring off the linkage under the dash. That spring will keep the clutch from coming all the way up
 
Found the problem!!!!
I installed a steel ball instead of the crappy plastic one on the end of the throw out bearing arm. For some reason I used the steel 1/4 washer as well as the ball (dummy).:banghead:
Once I removed the 1/4 spacer, I now have 1" free play at the pedal, 035" clearance between disc and flywheel and the the throw out bearing is NOT touching the pressure plate fingers!

:eek:ops:
 

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Which side of the fork was your spacer on? The stock layout is to use a mushroomed rubber grommet and thick conical steel washer on the engine side of the clutch fork. Did you have that spacer and ball nut on the rear side of the clutch fork?
 
R3dplanet said:
Which side of the fork was your spacer on? The stock layout is to use a mushroomed rubber grommet and thick conical steel washer on the engine side of the clutch fork. Did you have that spacer and ball nut on the rear side of the clutch fork?
Click to expand...

???? If it was on the other side of the clutch fork it wouldn't be doing anything! The clutch fork has a socket on the front side which the ball sits in.

I replaced the mushroomed rubber grommet with a steel ball I purchased on EBay (which is made for this application).
Once I removed the thick conical washer i was able to get everything to work as stated earlier.
Hard to believe a 1/4" spacer would create such a problem. I'm actully thinking of cutting a 1/4" of the steel ball as my clutch pedal sits higher than my brake pedal. If it doesn't work I will just put the conical washer in.

:burnout:
 
Just verifying. I know it will only work on one side. Just trying to visualize your fix.
 
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