Timing chain

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I say no...
the two drilled dots need to be facing each other..
the cam gear dot should be at six o clock, the crank gear dot should be at 12 o clock... you currently have them both at 12 o clock
Nope. Unless your trying to time for compression on cyl 6.
 
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Yes the procedure most people use is line them up 12 crank and 6 cam then rotate it around so the cam is at 12 and crank is at 12. THAT is number 1 TDC. I just use a steel ruler and line them up right the first time at 12 and 12.
That's what I did. And now it's got a hard start issue. Just going back to square one. Making sure.
 
Sorry for the confusion. Again, lets skip the 6 and 12 thing. For those that know, does this look to be a tooth off somewhere?
View attachment 1715332274
LET'S NOT!! SKIP IT!!!

LINE THEM UP AT 6 and 12 because then you CAN SEE IF THEY ARE OFF FOR CERTAIN. Then either set the distributor up on no6 where the crank sits, or rotate the crank 1 turn and set the dist up for no1.
 
Keep hangin' around RRR, you gonna pick somethin' up. lol
Most of it will be useful.
Yea he has thought me alot already. Some times it takes me a min to get it and understand it sometimes it has to be explained a couple times before the light turns on lol
 
LET'S NOT!! SKIP IT!!!

LINE THEM UP AT 6 and 12 because then you CAN SEE IF THEY ARE OFF FOR CERTAIN. Then either set the distributor up on no6 where the crank sits, or rotate the crank 1 turn and set the dist up for no1.

LET'S NOT!! SKIP IT!!! Thanks, by skip it I mean I understand the theory, didn't mean skip the step. No need to beat that. Got it.

LINE THEM UP AT 6 and 12 because then you CAN SEE IF THEY ARE OFF FOR CERTAIN.
Unfortunately the engine is together so that's gonna be tough.
I'm trying to figure out if I need to go back in and have a look....................

In your opinion, Del, from these crappy pictures, am I a tooth off?

Thanks!
 
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your fine. See where crank key is? Thats is where your #1 throw is, pointing right at #1 cylinder. It works out that way. now look at rotor and it should be ON #1 tower. If its not, then you may be 180 out.
line.jpg
 
your fine. See where crank key is? Thats is where your #1 throw is, pointing right at #1 cylinder. It works out that way. now look at rotor and it should be ON #1 tower. If its not, then you may be 180 out.
View attachment 1715332358

"See where crank key is? Thats is where your #1 throw is, pointing right at #1 cylinder. It works out that way."
Well I'll be. Makes sense. Learn something new everyday.
Thank you sir!!!!!!

Oh yeah, I took this picture right after the timing chain picture. Hard to tell but it's pointing at the front left intake manifold bolt. :thumbsup:

20190407_161631-jpg.jpg
 
"See where crank key is? Thats is where your #1 throw is, pointing right at #1 cylinder. It works out that way."
Well I'll be. Makes sense. Learn something new everyday.
Thank you sir!!!!!!

Oh yeah, I took this picture right after the timing chain picture. Hard to tell but it's pointing at the front left intake manifold bolt. :thumbsup:

View attachment 1715332387
One thing I learned on here a while back (from pishta I think)
It makes no difference where the intermediate shaft is locked in and it makes no difference where #1 on the dissy is. As long as the rotor is pointing to the number 1 wire and they are all in correct firing order. The whole turn your slot of the dissy to number 1 is just a was to simplifie things.
 
I really think the chain is lined up correctly. This was just to see if anybody saw anything way out in left field I was missing. Will continue TS'ing when I get home with new ecu, check for distributor 180 out again, and crossed plug wires, again. I'm close. I'll get it tonight...............

THANKS EVERYBODY!!!
 
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I really think the chain is lined up correctly. This was just to see if anybody saw anything way out in left field I was missing. Will continue TS'ing when I get home with new ecu, check for dis 180 out again, and plug wires. I'll get it tonight...............

THANKS EVERYBODY!!!
Make sure you check that your ecu is grounded against the firewall. Check and make sure your getting a spark.
 
One thing I learned on here a while back (from pishta I think)
It makes no difference where the intermediate shaft is locked in and it makes no difference where #1 on the dissy is. As long as the rotor is pointing to the number 1 wire and they are all in correct firing order. The whole turn your slot of the dissy to number 1 is just a was to simplifie things.
Absolutely. That's where the most room is between the intake manifold and firewall for adjustment.
 
I think it is fine. The intermediate gear seems to be in the correct position as well.
 
Timing marks are set with Cam gear at 6 O'clock. Crank gear at 12 O'clock. Distributor gear/slot as you show it in your picture per FSM. Then verify you are on the compression stroke, air rushes out of the spark plug hole, and set the distributor rotor under #1 distributor cap tower at TDC. No use getting hung up on 6 or 12 o'clock.
 
Well here's what the FSM says.

(7) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
(8) Place timing chain around both sprockets.
(9) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in camshaft
sprocket.
(10) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets
tight against the chain in position as described).
(11) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective
shafts and use a straight edge to check alignment
of timing marks (Fig. 26).

(12) Install the fuel pump eccentric, cup washer,
and camshaft bolt. Tighten bolt to 35 foot-pounds.
(13) Check camshaft for .002 to .006 inch end play
with a new thrust plate and up to .010 inch end play
with a used thrust plate. If not within these limits
install a new thrust plate.
(14) If within limits, slide the crankshaft oil slinger
over shaft and up against sprocket (flange away
from sprocket).

FSM timing.JPG


Then later in the FSM:

Distributor Timing

Before installing the distributor and oil pump drive
shaft, time engine as follows:
(1) Rotate crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at top
dead center on the firing stroke.

(2) When in this position, the timing mark on vibration
damper should be under ("0") on the timing
indicator.
(3) Coat shaft and drive gear with engine oil. Install
the shaft so that after gear spirals into place, it
will index with the oil pump shaft, so slot in top of
drive gear will point to the first intake manifold bolt
on left side of engine as shown in (Fig. 42).
 
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Timing marks are set with Cam gear at 6 O'clock. Crank gear at 12 O'clock. Distributor gear/slot as you show it in your picture per FSM. Then verify you are on the compression stroke, air rushes out of the spark plug hole, and set the distributor rotor under #1 distributor cap tower at TDC. No use getting hung up on 6 or 12 o'clock.

There IS plenty reason to get hung up on it. What IF the person assembling is not aware they are timing up on #6? They drop the distributor in 180* out.
 
There IS plenty reason to get hung up on it. What IF the person assembling is not aware they are timing up on #6? They drop the distributor in 180* out.

If you are on the compression stroke at TDC and you set the rotor under the #1 tower of the distributor cap, they will be good. Never have I worried about 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock. It is irrelevant.
 
If you are on the compression stroke at TDC and you set the rotor under the #1 tower of the distributor cap, they will be good. Never have I worried about 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock. It is irrelevant.

I agree, however, for someone who does not quite understand, it's good to go over it absolutely correctly.
 
Well here's what the FSM says.

(7) Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft
sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact
imaginary center line through both camshaft and
crankshaft bores.
(8) Place timing chain around both sprockets.
(9) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in camshaft
sprocket.
(10) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets
tight against the chain in position as described).
(11) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective
shafts and use a straight edge to check alignment
of timing marks (Fig. 26).

(12) Install the fuel pump eccentric, cup washer,
and camshaft bolt. Tighten bolt to 35 foot-pounds.
(13) Check camshaft for .002 to .006 inch end play
with a new thrust plate and up to .010 inch end play
with a used thrust plate. If not within these limits
install a new thrust plate.
(14) If within limits, slide the crankshaft oil slinger
over shaft and up against sprocket (flange away
from sprocket).

View attachment 1715332429

Then later in the FSM:

Distributor Timing

Before installing the distributor and oil pump drive
shaft, time engine as follows:
(1) Rotate crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at top
dead center on the firing stroke.

(2) When in this position, the timing mark on vibration
damper should be under ("0") on the timing
indicator.
(3) Coat shaft and drive gear with engine oil. Install
the shaft so that after gear spirals into place, it
will index with the oil pump shaft, so slot in top of
drive gear will point to the first intake manifold bolt
on left side of engine as shown in (Fig. 42).

All that is 100% correct, but notice nowhere do they acknowledge that the picture "fig 26" is timed up on #6. This is what makes people slip up and get the distributor 180* out.
 
Pishta's drawing is about as good as you can get online. I would have guessed that the cam sprocket might be a tooth off based on the pix; you can see that the line is not quiiite dead on the center of the cam sprocket bolt and is in fact a bit to the left of center of that bolt.

But if the camera is not dead straight on and in right in the middle, then you can't really tell 100% from an internet pix.
 
Pishta's drawing is about as good as you can get online. I would have guessed that the cam sprocket might be a tooth off based on the pix; you can see that the line is not quiiite dead on the center of the cam sprocket bolt and is in fact a bit to the left of center of that bolt.

But if the camera is not dead straight on and in right in the middle, then you can't really tell 100% from an internet pix.
Agreed, look where it would be if it were 1 tooth off, it would be more obvious than the slight parallax the camera shows.Ooh, also check out the FSM pic in post #44, see how everything is lined up for tdc? Check out the crank key way position....pointing to cylinder #1. Shazam! :rolleyes:

The FSM recommendation on the distributor drive direction is only to get the vacuum pod in a position (iirc pointing at cylinder 8) so it can be moved without hitting anything. You can wire your cap up any clocking your rotor point on tdc is at.
 
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