Today, dollar for dollar, is the 318 faster than the 340 ???

would you agree ?

  • yep, the 318 wins if buying and building for under 3k

    Votes: 48 41.7%

  • Nope, the 340 always has and always will beat the 318

    Votes: 57 49.6%

  • Actually, never thought about it like this... Good Point !

    Votes: 10 8.7%
  • Total voters
    115
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mopowers said:
What would you do with the other $1500?
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mopowers said:
What does a 390 stroker kit, set of cylinder heads, 4bbl intake, cam, lifters, pushrods, gasket set, etc set you back these days? Sounds like a >$3k build to me. Anyone have any $$$
numbers?
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Im sure that build would be well over $3k. I was merely comparing what i would do, given the conditions specified,,,, a $1500 core 340, verses a virtually free 318
The $1400 stroker kit was found via google, and anything else done to the 318 would probably have to be done to the 340 too. Bore, new rings, bearings, pistons etc, added to the 340, but part of the stroker kit, so the 340 is even farther behind the stroker in the 318.
Anything else you decide to do to the 318, would cost the same for the 340.
Ill still take the 50 free inches.
 
fishmens67 said:
Well there you go , you have next winters project. I'm holding you to the 9's. :D lol
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I have full confidence that PBR could get a NA 318 into the 9's in his car. IF he does, you'll be able to find his picture on the Magazine rack on the front cover of something.
 
33IMP said:
Im sure that build would be well over $3k. I was merely comparing what i would do, given the conditions specified,,,, a $1500 core 340, verses a virtually free 318
The $1400 stroker kit was found via google, and anything else done to the 318 would probably have to be done to the 340 too. Bore, new rings, bearings, pistons etc, added to the 340, but part of the stroker kit, so the 340 is even farther behind the stroker in the 318.
Anything else you decide to do to the 318, would cost the same for the 340.
Ill still take the 50 free inches.
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How would the 390 perform with the 318 cylinder heads? Would there still be money left to replace those?
 
mopowers said:
How would the 390 perform with the 318 cylinder heads? Would there still be money left to replace those?
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I doubt it but then again that puts you on par with everyone else purchasing aluminum heads because they think iron is junk unworthy of anything but a resto or door stop.
 
mopowers said:
How would the 390 perform with the 318 cylinder heads? Would there still be money left to replace those?
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If the budget allows, i would probably run an aftermarket aluminum head. You have to objectively look at how much it would cost to redo the iron 340 core heads too, compared to aftermarket. Then, if you want your iron 340 to flow as good, toss in the cost of porting an iron head too?
(The last iron heads i had done, machine shop bill was $900. Mine were already professionally ported maxwedge heads. No way would i spend that on ordinarry 340 heads, short of a number matching, date coded restoration. )
 
33IMP said:
If the budget allows, i would probably run an aftermarket aluminum head. You have to objectively look at how much it would cost to redo the iron 340 core heads too, compared to aftermarket. Then, if you want your iron 340 to flow as good, toss in the cost of porting an iron head too?
(The last iron heads i had done, machine shop bill was $900. Mine were already professionally ported maxwedge heads. No way would i spend that on ordinarry 340 heads, short of a number matching, date coded restoration. )
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A budget of $1500 was established for the 340 and $3k for the 318. With those miniscule budgets (I didn't make the rules), you'd have to assume both engines are 'usable' with minimal to no machine work necessary (ie. backyard rebuild, hone, re-ring, bearing, lap valves, and reassemble).

If the 340 needed new heads, it's probably out of the discussion all together. If the 318 needed heads, that $3k starts decreasing very quickly and pretty much eliminates the possibility of the 50 extra cubes.
 
mopowers said:
A budget of $1500 was established for the 340 and $3k for the 318. With those miniscule budgets (I didn't make the rules), you'd have to assume both engines are 'usable' with minimal to no machine work necessary (ie. backyard rebuild, hone, re-ring, bearing, lap valves, and reassemble).

If the 340 needed new heads, it's probably out of the discussion all together. If the 318 needed heads, that $3k starts decreasing very quickly and pretty much eliminates the possibility of the 50 extra cubes.
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Agreed! With that budget, decent heads would be difficult. Would probably have to use the 318 heads, or find some sevicable 360/5.9 heads.
 
mopowers said:
A budget of $1500 was established for the 340 and $3k for the 318. With those miniscule budgets (I didn't make the rules), you'd have to assume both engines are 'usable' with minimal to no machine work necessary (ie. backyard rebuild, hone, re-ring, bearing, lap valves, and reassemble).

If the 340 needed new heads, it's probably out of the discussion all together. If the 318 needed heads, that $3k starts decreasing very quickly and pretty much eliminates the possibility of the 50 extra cubes.
Click to expand...

33IMP said:
Agreed! With that budget, decent heads would be difficult. Would probably have to use the 318 heads, or find some sevicable 360/5.9 heads.
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Well, I think there are plenty of possibilities on heads. I'm sure both builds would at minimum get new cam/lifters, so just for example :
  • Magnum heads and oil through pushrods are plenty cheap should one go that route.
  • There is always the "40% off" Speedmaster heads fully loaded shipped to your door for 730 bucks.
  • Of course, working with the stock heads is for sure a possibility as stated in post 1, we are assuming it's all good core and useable 340 parts, and as well for the 318 as it's "a runner when pulled".
  • The 318 guy could consider Promaxx at 1100 bucks, fully loaded.
Which is kind of the point of the thread... when somebody has 2-3k to spend on their 318 and somebody says "get a 340", is that really the best advice for them ???
 
fishmens67 said:
for you that's cheat'n. you get a ground down 360 crank for 350 cubes .
9.99 with a 350 mopar.
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I was mostly curious as I have a 422 assembly out of my engine out of my black duster. Not sure what direction I’m going on that come rebuild time. May stay the same, may upgrade to a roller cam, may go more cubes. For sure the heads will be flowing more. I will not be building a 318. Lol . I’m retired and tired.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Will a 4 inch stroke 340 crank fit a 318 block.
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Only with 318 or 273 heads. If you use the bigger heads you have to reconfigure the Finnegan pin around the quasi cam for the moto drive spray to the cog for inverted over/under Linear operations oiling to limit the hydro terminator’s derma amateur reading level to the meet the Vibratory limitations of the capacitor dual back flog operations.

It is a simple operation involving the Jesus clip on the back face of the unit that retains the hydro meters electromagnetic residence pick up harmonizer.

Failure to do so may cause nausea vomiting monkey tails to grow out your backside shortened fingernails irregular heartbeats and shorten breath. Proceed or ignore at your own risk. It is a easy operation to perform with simple hand tools, a grinder and a BFH.

mopowers said:
A budget of $1500 was established for the 340 and $3k for the 318. With those miniscule budgets (I didn't make the rules), you'd have to assume both engines are 'usable' with minimal to no machine work necessary (ie. backyard rebuild, hone, re-ring, bearing, lap valves, and reassemble).

If the 340 needed new heads, it's probably out of the discussion all together. If the 318 needed heads, that $3k starts decreasing very quickly and pretty much eliminates the possibility of the 50 extra cubes.
Click to expand...
 
5CF971E4-44C2-4CA4-9F68-6026215D5D8F.jpeg
 
Yes the best bang for the dollar with new parts is probably crosswind intake speedmaster heads on a zero decked short block with something like comp cam xe268h-xe285h (similar from other companies) depending on what level you want to go also with gearing and stall. That would be with 318/340/360 take 360 out of the running and have to pay $1000-$1500 or more for a 340 would just leave 318. And be a strong one if they put enough gear and stall behind it. Most leave out gear ratio when talking small displacement 3.55 might be a nice compromise gear for a 360 but it's a highway gear to a 318, minimum 3.91 should be behind any well built 318.

But for cheap cheap dollars people should be doing running Magnums either 5.9l or 5.2l either should be good for 400 hp with cam 4bbl headers, the Chev guys are getting slightly more with LS 4.8l 5.3l and are making those swaps like crazy here few are taking advantage of this cheap power.
 
I noticed something. At first, the 340 votes were miles ahead. BUT, as the thread goes on, and people start to "think" about actually what money would be spent and how much money left for the build..... the 318 votes are gaining ground...
 
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