Today, dollar for dollar, is the 318 faster than the 340 ???

would you agree ?

  • yep, the 318 wins if buying and building for under 3k

    Votes: 48 41.7%

  • Nope, the 340 always has and always will beat the 318

    Votes: 57 49.6%

  • Actually, never thought about it like this... Good Point !

    Votes: 10 8.7%
  • Total voters
    115
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How about the fact I have 9 340 core engines in my personal collection at the moment, a few of which I bought so long ago that they only cost 2-3 hundred complete?
 
I wouldn't build a 318 period, you can get a 360 core for the same money and be 38 cid ahead and better heads. I've had my 360 core for over 30 years and I'm betting it will never be built.
 
318 the Walmart 340. So much 340 envy put a hot mask on your fat girlfriend and tell everybody how she screws just like a super hot p*** star. Bit of a try hard don't you think.
 
replicaracer43 said:
How about the fact I have 9 340 core engines in my personal collection at the moment, a few of which I bought so long ago that they only cost 2-3 hundred complete?
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if you have the 340 already, then it's a no-brainer vs 318. But if a guy (or gal) had to buy TODAY, what would move his A-body faster for a 3k budget??? Is the 318 the better choice in this situation?
 
Oldiron440 said:
I wouldn't build a 318 period, you can get a 360 core for the same money and be 38 cid ahead and better heads. I've had my 360 core for over 30 years and I'm betting it will never be built.
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I agree the 5.9 is cheap and available. It's exactly why 360's aren't a part of the discussion. As the title states, 340 vs 318
 
318willrun, well you have kind of stated my situation once I bought my 340 Duster. It had a running ‘74 casting 318 in it with no vin stamping and a tired 904 that needs a rebuild. Whoever put that engine in kept the 340 exhaust manifolds, distributor, and harmonic balancer.
I bought a long block disassembled 340 (‘69 vin) for $900. Block is standard bore, cast crank, pistons are 30 over, heads are factory 2.02 intake valves, oil pump and pickup, windage tray, oil pan, and timing chain cover. Nothing else.
I later bought a complete running 340 (‘71 vin) for $1200 with all of the accessories attached (alternator, water pump, and b-body exhaust manifolds). This engine is 30 overbore with 576 heads (smaller intake valves), an SP2P318 intake, and a Holley 4 barrel. The numbers matching 727 auto transmission is still attached.
My original plan was to beef up the 318 while I had the machine work done on the basket case 340. So I purchase a used Edelbrock performer cam and lifters ($125), used Edelbrock Performer 318/360 intake ($100), and a used Edelbrock 600 CFM carb ($100). Later I came across an Edelbrock LD4B for $175 and got that.
Meanwhile for the 340 I picked up a factory ‘71 intake for $100, an LD340 for $200, two different cams (a Hemi grind, and a 484 purple shaft) for $200 each, an HEI distributor, and a few 340 ThermoQuads (1971 ($275), 1972 ($75), and 1973 ($50)).
I also bought a set of drop in solid roller lifters and a set of 273 banana groove lifters if I want to go solid roller cam.
Once I came across and purchased the complete 340 and trans I have been wondering if I should waste my time on the 318 upgrade while trying my hand on working the heads per your tutorial or should I just go ahead and spend the time making the ‘71 340 into a better version than what it is.
 
Just to be sure, I love all small block mopars. And yes, I'll take a solid 340 any day of the week and twice on Sundays over a 318 if you are given me an engine.
 
DFX 340 Duster said:
318willrun, well you have kind of stated my situation once I bought my 340 Duster. It had a running ‘74 casting 318 in it with no vin stamping and a tired 904 that needs a rebuild. Whoever put that engine in kept the 340 exhaust manifolds, distributor, and harmonic balancer.
I bought a long block disassembled 340 (‘69 vin) for $900. Block is standard bore, cast crank, pistons are 30 over, heads are factory 2.02 intake valves, oil pump and pickup, windage tray, oil pan, and timing chain cover. Nothing else.
I later bought a complete running 340 (‘71 vin) for $1200 with all of the accessories attached (alternator, water pump, and b-body exhaust manifolds). This engine is 30 overbore with 576 heads (smaller intake valves), an SP2P318 intake, and a Holley 4 barrel. The numbers matching 727 auto transmission is still attached.
My original plan was to beef up the 318 while I had the machine work done on the basket case 340. So I purchase a used Edelbrock performer cam and lifters ($125), used Edelbrock Performer 318/360 intake ($100), and a used Edelbrock 600 CFM carb ($100). Later I came across an Edelbrock LD4B for $175 and got that.
Meanwhile for the 340 I picked up a factory ‘71 intake for $100, an LD340 for $200, two different cams (a Hemi grind, and a 484 purple shaft) for $200 each, an HEI distributor, and a few 340 ThermoQuads (1971 ($275), 1972 ($75), and 1973 ($50)).
I also bought a set of drop in solid roller lifters and a set of 273 banana groove lifters if I want to go solid roller cam.
Once I came across and purchased the complete 340 and trans I have been wondering if I should waste my time on the 318 upgrade while trying my hand on working the heads per your tutorial or should I just go ahead and spend the time making the ‘71 340 into a better version than what it is.
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If you've purchased the 340, then I'd move forward with that.
 
mopowers said:
So the choice is really a 318 and $3k to spend, or a 340 in equal shape and $1,500 to spend? I think I'd still take the 340.
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Thanks! When talking resale, you'd be ahead with the 340. I'm just not sure the 340 wins the race at the end of the day. 22 cubes, in my opinion, isn't enough to make up 1500 dollars more to spend in performance.
 
318willrun said:
Again.... TODAY !!! 6-26-21.... Let's say a good friend worked hard to save 3k to buy and build a motor for his Duster. Today is the day he buys the engine. 5.9 is NOT an option, neither the LS, neither a 440. He will decide today between the 1500 dollar 340 core complete minus carb, or a free 318 2bbl that ran good when pulled last month. What is your recommendation for the best ET between those two choices. Today, is the 318 the best choice vs 340 on a 3k or under buy and build for performance.
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I tell him to keep saving and find something else. 3k doesn’t build crapola today. At least nothing I’d want my name on.

Again, it’s buy once, cry once. I’ve got a buddy that is acting like a 16 year old pre-pubescent idiot. We sold him a running 318 and he had to change the intake manifold (it was complete carb to pan and RUNNING for 1k) and the cam, which turned into changing the heads.

And now he wants to put the engine in the car so he can hear it run! WTF??? Doing work to do work is STUPID.

I’d have never sold him the engine if I knew what he was going to do. He won’t ever be happy with it and he’s going to spend an assload of money buffing a turd.

That’s why I say buy once, cry once. I’m well past the days of cobbling **** together just because. And I don’t care what engine it is. 3k is not enough money to build something worth having in the end.

I don’t compromise very well, and that dollar limit is a compromise.
 
I have 6 340's but even if I didn't I would find a 340 block to build. If its just a stock driver a 318 is fine. If your spending the money to do a performance build then it makes sense to go with cubic inches.
318 is a great engine and can be one hell of a sleeper. Throw on some good heads, cam and 4 barrel and a 340 pie pan and most wouldn't know any different.
Im just glad I had the foresight to hold on to all the 340's I came across in the past 20 years. I did let one go to a friend but other than that I still have every one. The 340 is just the perfect balance of short stroke and bore size.
 
318willrun said:
Thanks! When talking resale, you'd be ahead with the 340. I'm just not sure the 340 wins the race at the end of the day. 22 cubes, in my opinion, isn't enough to make up 1500 dollars more to spend in performance.
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Of course! Keep resale out of the equation. This is all hypothetical since we all know you'd be much better off with a 360 than a 318.

What would you spend the $3k on for the 318? By the time you sprung for a decent set of heads, you'd be almost even with the 340 (cost-wise) and still 22 cubes short.
 
RussellSullivan said:
I wonder if over on the B body forum, they're having the same discussion regarding 440 vs 426?
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Well we all know the answer to that question. Dollar for dollar a 440 will kill the 426. But damn does a hemi look good under the hood. I recently had to make this decision for the engine going into my 71 cuda. I was set on a hemi but finally decided on the 440 simply because you can get the same HP for half the money.
The 318 vs 340 is a totally different argument. The only difference is the initial cost of the block.....that's it.
 
318willrun said:
Because a 5.9 magnum can be bought in good working order for about 300 bucks if one looks. I think this would give it a clear advantage. That's why it's 340 vs 318, is the 318 faster to a point.... that point being a modest budget and you have to buy a 340 or take the free 318.
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Well you were talking about dollar for dollar. LOL

If I were looking to build a small budget block and my choices were a free 318, a $300 360 and a $1500 340 there is no doubt in my mind which I'd use. The $300 would be money well spent. I would however take the 318 and sell it. :poke::lol:
 
mopowers said:
Of course! Keep resale out of the equation. This is all hypothetical since we all know you'd be much better off with a 360 than a 318.

What would you spend the $3k on for the 318? By the time you sprung for a decent set of heads, you'd be almost even with the 340 (cost-wise) and still 22 cubes short.
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I'm thinking heads, pistons, cam, 4bbl. I'll take good heads over 22 cubes. But that's just my opinion.
 
justinp61 said:
Well you were talking about dollar for dollar. LOL

If I were looking to build a small budget block and my choices were a free 318, a $300 360 and a $1500 340 there is no doubt in my mind which I'd use. The $300 would be money well spent. I would however take the 318 and sell it. :poke::lol:
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but ... the 360 isn't part of the discussion... 318 vs 340... lol why is this so hard ??
 
318willrun said:
but ... the 360 isn't part of the discussion... 318 vs 340... lol why is this so hard ??
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Because if you are a true low budget builder, you can get a running 5.9 magnum for 300 or so like has allready been mentioned, and its superior in every way over the typical smog era worn out 318. Maybe another interesting discussion is with a 3k budget, and NO core, which is the best build?
 
I think
318willrun said:
but ... the 360 isn't part of the discussion... 318 vs 340... lol why is this so hard ??
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Because you build what you like have or want, I think having a,goal of 3k unrealistic, at least for me. I'm not going to but the cheapest parts just because of cost. I'm going to buy pistons and heads that give me the parameters I want, same with rods, bearings etc.. I don't see being happy with an engine just because I only had 3k in it and it ran 13.50s. If I had to build a small block it would be a early 360 block with 340 pistons for 372 cubes with a stock crank.
It's funny how the logical choice for a sbm is removed from the conversation.
 
318willrun said:
Just to be sure, I love all small block mopars. And yes, I'll take a solid 340 any day of the week and twice on Sundays over a 318 if you are given me an engine.
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If I had one , I'd give it to you, as I have no use for it. :D
Tiny weeny bores don't cut it. LOL
 
Why can’t you guy’s get the 318 vs 340 thing? Even if 360 was part of the choice’s, I can buy and build a teener with 3 grand that will stomp your 360 you bought and built for 3 grand.
 
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