TOO MUCH OIL PRESSURE

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I have tried aluminum adapter steel adapter and remote oil filter plate everything leaked after a pass. Switched from high volume pump to stock pump same oil pressure.

20200520_205021.jpg
 
pishta said:
Stop fussing with that 90 and run a shorty filter off a stock block plate. a Mopar thread, bypass and gasket match WIX 51335 is only 2.483 tall! Sure youll be changing it every month but its short!
51335.gif

they got a great search engine by dimensions
Catalogs
use Lube, Spin-on, 3/4-16 thread size and 2.462/2.834 gasket ID/OD (stock 51068 PN spec for 86 Diplomat 318) and 8/11 bypass.
Click to expand...
I ditched my 90 degree adapter and I now run a WIX 51085 filter.
TTI headers its tight but it works
 
I found a way to solve the leaking 90 degree adapter, 1st clean all the surfaces for the large gasket to seal properly, (use instructions supplied with gasket set) then where the big bolt goes through the adapter put 1/2 copper pipe sleeve (about 1/2" long) in there and use the copper or plastic ring seals as mentioned earlier that come in the kit. I found that the hole dripped in the adapter for the bolt is too big and that is where the oil leaks out depending upon where the big bolt ends up (centered or off to one side causing leak) and putting a copper sleeve seals it perfect.
 
roadrunnerreds said:
I have tried aluminum adapter steel adapter and remote oil filter plate everything leaked after a pass. Switched from high volume pump to stock pump same oil pressure.

View attachment 1715598747
Click to expand...

Where did you get that?
I made something like that years ago.
If that doesn't leak, you're doing well. That's a lot of square inches with 70 to 100 psi on it. The force will literally bend the plate away from the attachment point (the center).
The reason the factory plate works is in part the shape and mostly due to having a tall cylinder (the filter) torqued down adding resistance to the outer edge bending away from the block.
If you want to run a remote adapter, look at Canton's. Even if you don't buy theirs, those are good designs and what you should look for. Ford and Chrysler use the same filter mounting thread.
One other issue can arise with remote adapters. It should be a non-issue for a strip only car, but if those hoses get subject to really high heat from the exhaust eventually the rubber inside will turn brittle. Then hoses slowly seep oil and until you take the hoses off, and they go pop, crinkle, crackle, it the leak is difficult to find.


As far as the right angle adapters go, only once had a problem with one leaking. It was my fault. Used an abrasive pad to speed the cleaning of the gasket surface. Some trick I had just got from a local mechanic. Well that cost me three MP gaskets sets, two trips to the speed shop that had 'em, and much time on a flat plate (old bench saw top) with fine sandpaper reflattening it. Lesson learned!
 
Mattax said:
Where did you get that?
I made something like that years ago.
If that doesn't leak, you're doing well. That's a lot of square inches with 70 to 100 psi on it. The force will literally bend the plate away from the attachment point (the center).
The reason the factory plate works is in part the shape and mostly due to having a tall cylinder (the filter) torqued down adding resistance to the outer edge bending away from the block.
If you want to run a remote adapter, look at Canton's. Even if you don't buy theirs, those are good designs and what you should look for. Ford and Chrysler use the same filter mounting thread.
One other issue can arise with remote adapters. It should be a non-issue for a strip only car, but if those hoses get subject to really high heat from the exhaust eventually the rubber inside will turn brittle. Then hoses slowly seep oil and until you take the hoses off, and they go pop, crinkle, crackle, it the leak is difficult to find.


As far as the right angle adapters go, only once had a problem with one leaking. It was my fault. Used an abrasive pad to speed the cleaning of the gasket surface. Some trick I had just got from a local mechanic. Well that cost me three MP gaskets sets, two trips to the speed shop that had 'em, and much time on a flat plate (old bench saw top) with fine sandpaper reflattening it. Lesson learned!
Click to expand...
I am seriously considering canton adapter seems like perfit for what i need. I used some RTV ON PLATE to seal it and when i pulled it off it stuck to block pretty good it just seems like it alway leaks around bolt head with factory adapter. I thinking its pressure issue not sure what i can do to lower pressure. Thanks Bradley
 
FWIW both my last two 340 engines would hit 100 psi cold. In fact I has blowing opening the releif valve on the accusump - what a mess!
Switching to lower viscosity oil on the current engine solved that.
If with a standard pump and pressure spring in your engine its pushing 65 psi at what 1000 rpm? then it will probably get better flow switching to a lower viscosity.
What to pick?
Base it on the oil temperatures typically seen. If you don't have a oil temperature gage, the water temperature will do.
If the oil is somewhat warm, say 180 to 200 F, then the second number in a multi-grade oil is of most interest.
Say you're running a 10W-40. Then try a 10W-30.

But if the oil is on the cold side, say around 120 F at launch, then consider a slightly lower W number as well.

Lighter viscosity will result in less resistance to flow. So that means less pressure at the pump outlet and more oil flowing through the engine itself. Oil pressure at the top of the engine might be better than with the heavier weight oil.
 
Mattax said:
FWIW both my last two 340 engines would hit 100 psi cold. In fact I has blowing opening the releif valve on the accusump - what a mess!
Switching to lower viscosity oil on the current engine solved that.
If with a standard pump and pressure spring in your engine its pushing 65 psi at what 1000 rpm? then it will probably get better flow switching to a lower viscosity.
What to pick?
Base it on the oil temperatures typically seen. If you don't have a oil temperature gage, the water temperature will do.
If the oil is somewhat warm, say 180 to 200 F, then the second number in a multi-grade oil is of most interest.
Say you're running a 10W-40. Then try a 10W-30.

But if the oil is on the cold side, say around 120 F at launch, then consider a slightly lower W number as well.

Lighter viscosity will result in less resistance to flow. So that means less pressure at the pump outlet and more oil flowing through the engine itself. Oil pressure at the top of the engine might be better than with the heavier weight oil.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the replies.
 
Maybe a couple graphs of oil viscosity vs. termperature will make this clearer.

Here's four 40 wt oils. One straight weight and three multi grades.
Notice they all have about the same viscosity at 212 * F.
upload_2020-9-21_21-27-56.png

Lets say your oil is running at 140 *F (60 C).
At that temperature the viscosity of Brad Penn straight 40 would be around 60 centi-Stokes
while the viscosity of Rotella 15W-40 would be around 50 cSt and the T6 5W-40 thinner yet at 40 cSt.
Get those same oils up to 212 F and the viscosity of all are around 15 cSt.

This next one shows the difference in viscosity between some common multi-weights.
Notice the big difference in viscosity between 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50 at 212 F
All brands will be similar to these. (These happen to be Brad Penn's viscosity data because it was easy to access and I use their oil.)
upload_2020-9-21_21-40-50.png



*(I know weight is not technically correct but its the term used in normal conversation, so I'm using here.)
 
Last edited:
I bought this relocation pieces from a member here fabo over the winter. Thought it would solve my issue with oil leak.

20200520_205021.jpg
 
Mattax said:
Maybe a couple graphs of oil viscosity vs. termperature will make this clearer.

Here's four 40 wt oils. One straight weight and three multi grades.
Notice they all have about the same viscosity at 212 * F.
View attachment 1715599102
Lets say your oil is running at 140 *F (60 C).
At that temperature the viscosity of Brad Penn straight 40 would be around 60 centi-Stokes
while the viscosity of Rotella 15W-40 would be around 50 cSt and the T6 5W-40 thinner yet at 40 cSt.
Get those same oils up to 212 F and the viscosity of all are around 15 cSt.

This next one shows the difference in viscosity between some common multi-weights.
Notice the big difference in viscosity between 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50 at 212 F
All brands will be similar to these. (These happen to be Brad Penn's viscosity data because it was easy to access and I use their oil.)
View attachment 1715599104


*(I know weight is not technically correct but its the term used in normal conversation, so I'm using here.)
Click to expand...
I am running 10w-30 BP now
 
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