Torqstorm.. let's see how it does

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Toluene56 said:
On my engine. Maybe 6.5psi (at the top of a 950cfm carb) at 5000ft. But boost is just a measurement of resistance, so every engine is gonna be a little different.

Most stockish setups I see alot of people making 8-10psi with torqstorms. But take that with a grain of salt.
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I thought about the elevation, I'm at sea level. More concerned about blowing head gaskets since I'm at 10.3:1. 93 pump gas works for me NA. E85 is not really available. I'm hoping a station starts carrying it on my 50 mile drive to the track. Very interesting thread, thanks for sharing.
 
Some tweaking definitely needs to be done. Fixed most of the cruise issues with the new carb, wot is still a bit fat. But it works. Neither of these videos are wot.. about 60-75% throttle.

 
Well Iwas able to finally read boost at wot from my msd map sensor after I fixed my pedal issues. Under the carb read 7.75psi @6500 with the base 3.25 pulley.
The msd reads psia, atmosphere here reads 12.25, saw a solid 20psia. Better than i thought it would be.
 
So I thought it was running rich and causing a stumble at wot (.69-.72 afr reading).. very annoying, couldn't get it clean up. So I decided to go the other direction.. add more jet to primary and viola weird wot stutter is almost gone. Test n tunes are great.
When it was misfiring it was reading a rich condition.


Also any ideas on a better China rail seal on the intake? Mine has now blown out after 5 full 1/4 passes. Made a helluva mess.
 
What are you doing now for the China wall seal?
How much of a gap is there between the intake and block?
 
rumblefish360 said:
What are you doing now for the China wall seal?
How much of a gap is there between the intake and block?
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when I had put this engine back together I just used gray RTV without the cork gaskets.. when I remove the intakeI was going to measure the gap and see if I can make some kind of plate and silicone top bottom. Maybe that would create a better seal?
 
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I was gonna suggest The Right Stuff but this advertisement was one step ahead of me.
 
Maybe time to look at your crankcase ventilation setup for some improvements also, for the new extra blow-by volume that is now being created by the boost. There's obviously pressure accumulating in there.
 
cudavert said:
Maybe time to look at your crankcase ventilation setup for some improvements also, for the new extra blow-by volume that is now being created by the boost. There's obviously pressure accumulating in there.
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I have a catch can, but I think the baffles in the valve covers are basically touching the valve cover insert. Making it non functional. I was worried about it before the track day. When the seal is fixed I'm going to remove the baffling.
 
Toluene56 said:
So I thought it was running rich and causing a stumble at wot (.69-.72 afr reading).. very annoying, couldn't get it clean up. So I decided to go the other direction.. add more jet to primary and viola weird wot stutter is almost gone. Test n tunes are great.
When it was misfiring it was reading a rich condition.


Also any ideas on a better China rail seal on the intake? Mine has now blown out after 5 full 1/4 passes. Made a helluva mess.
Click to expand...


That’s right. A misfire will show rich when it’s lean. O2 sensor is a bad term for the device. It should really be called a combustion sensor.
 
I've been fighting an odd stumble at higher rpm. Not as bad in first and 2nd gear (still noticeable).
Best run at 5000ft was 10.78@127 wot high gear .79/.80 lambda. then it just got worse and worse.
I've thrown jet at it, made it worse. Took a bunch of jet away, smoothed out a little but then still stumbled higher rpm. Put the jets where it seemed happiest until the lean out. I can see/feel an obvious lean out as soon as I hit high gear at wot. Enough that I just let off. .90 lambda when it laid over and I let off. It is not an instant lean out, it will stay at .75 lambda for a second and then just acts like it ran out of fuel.

I fear I've reached the limit of my fuel pump and e85.

Needle and seats are ss .120 single needle bowls
83/95 jets (Eric at hpi sent it with 81/95)
Quickstar 300 pump -8 pushlok from tank to regulator at carb, -6 pushlok to each bowl.

I figured this would happen doing my bench racing in my head.

So I'm thinking about a prostar 500 pump, -10 to pump, and the same -8 after. Maybe going g from a .120NS to a .130 or .150. But I have heard the .150ns does some funky things with pressure.

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Magnafuel says that pump should feed 950hp but they don’t differentiate between gas, e85, or boost vs na. So there are some variables. How is your feed from tank to pump? Are you starving the pump on the inlet side at all?
 
TT5.9mag said:
Magnafuel says that pump should feed 950hp but they don’t differentiate between gas, e85, or boost vs na. So there are some variables. How is your feed from tank to pump? Are you starving the pump on the inlet side at all?
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The 300 pump Is rated hp wise with gasoline. According to the company. .. so I figured 650-675 with e85 would be a safe estimate.

It's -8 from tank to regulator at the carb. And a -8 return from the magnafuel bypass. The lean out is with 8 g in the cell.. 15g cell. First thing I thought of was not enough fuel. Added some.. same result.

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My guess is you are indeed running out of pump running E85
That pump is rated way less on E85 than gas.
I don’t like the magnafuel stuff myself, they are prone to leaking, often before they are very old, and they don’t like continuous duty much either( like on the street)
1st and 2nd are missing less than in high gear because the tranny is helping leverage your power.
At 1 to 1 she is working.
I would step up, and use another vendor.
That all said, I am saying this as a guy who had zero issues with a Holley black on a heavy 9 sec car( later swapped to a whole new bigger fuel system and zip on the slip)
So to me, fuel pumps are often overkill . In your case, probably not.
 
I agree you are likely running out of pump on e85 and I’ll also recommend a -10 feed for the long run and -8 to the carb. That is….if you’re not restricting the pump on the inlet side at all.
 
You should set up a fuel pressure gauge and position it for viewing while at top RPM, high gear. It's interesting that you leaned it out and things improved. On performance turbo cars, I believe that the spark plug gap needs to be decreased to prevent misfiring.
 
@cudavert That’s true. The spark has trouble making the jump under pressure. Decrease the plug gap or increase the energy. Sometimes both.

@Toluene56 Nice run, keep it up.
 
Toluene56 said:
So I thought it was running rich and causing a stumble at wot (.69-.72 afr reading).. very annoying, couldn't get it clean up. So I decided to go the other direction.. add more jet to primary and viola weird wot stutter is almost gone. Test n tunes are great.
When it was misfiring it was reading a rich condition.
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GOING LEAN CAUSES THAT..SEEN MANY GUYS CHASE A RICH CONDITION THAT WAS ACTUALLY A LEAN CONDITION.. GOOD LUCK
 
Keep an eye on your ignition system also. The corn juice likes a good hot spark.
 
19DUSTER73 said:
Keep an eye on your ignition system also. The corn juice likes a good hot spark.
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Yea. Ignition is pretty spicy..
R5671a-7 ngk plugs gapped at .026
Msd programmable 6al w/ map sensor
Hvc coil

I have noticed the carbon ball is already gone on my basically brand new msd cap.. so that's irritating.
 
Great build, very cool.
I have no experience with E85 but is it possible that with 11.7-1, at 5000 ft and
7-10psi you might be getting into detonation ?
 
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604B1duster said:
Great build, very cool.
I have no experience with E85 but is it possible that with 11.7-1, at 5000 ft and
7-10psi you might be getting into detonation ?
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Anything is possible.. the cam I have has bunch of overlap, so I'm sure that helps.

Plugs look pretty clean. At least with detonation I would be seeing the repercussions in the porcelain. If anything I would be worried if I take it to sea level.
 
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