Torque Converter Guidence?

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Corrupt_Reverend

Corrupt_Reverend

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I've decided that since I'm rebuilding my trans and adding the manual VB, I should just bite the bullet and replace the TQ converter as well. I mean, I'm gonna be in there and I'd like to keep the trans in the car for as long as possible after all this is done. haha

So I'm looking around and getting a little overwhelmed.

First thing; Can anybody suggest a reputable brand? I've read on here that TCI is a gamble so I'm guessing I should steer clear of them, but I like the price point on their "street" models. Anybody know of another company that hits the 2-300 area but has better QC? If that's not doable, I can deal, but I'd like to keep the sticker shock at a manageable level.

Next up; What's with the different sizes? I'm guessing it's just how things work out when company "x" makes a product with "y" specs, or is there a specific reason for going with one size over another (all else being equal).

I'll preface my last question with this: I know you guys can't tell me what stall to get because it's a derivative of engine torque curve, vehicle weight, use, etc. and that I should just call the company and tell them about my car to find out what I should get.

What I'm wondering is if they will be able to help me pick one when I don't really know anything about the engine?

I got the motor in a trade. All I know is that it has an "RV" cam, and higher than stock compression ratio (He said 10-10.5:1 but who knows). Oh, and an eddlebrock 4bbl carb/intake that I swapped over from the old engine.

Will they be able to point me in the right direction with just "it's a lightly modified 318 in a Dodge Dart"?

Thanks in advance for any advice y'all can offer.

~Rev.
 
200-300 will get you junk. Besides that point, with an "RV" cam, you probably don't need a big high dollar converter. Precision of New Hampton is a great company that builds fine converters. Call them and tell them what you have. Including gear ratio that you've conveniently left out here. Cam specs would be a plus. ....and if you don't know them, why on earth not? I would have never bought anything without proof of what was there.
 
Hmm. Ya know, I don't know the gear ratio in my diff. Never had a reason to check. haha

I have found a conservatively priced unit on the PTC website. I think it was just around 400 bucks. Not positive it's what I need though. I'm going to call them tomorrow after work and see what they think.

As for buying a motor blind. My old engine was on its' very last leg. The guy who rebuilt the new motor was willing to trade for a cheap pistol I didn't really care for so I took a gamble. So far, it's been a great little engine. It is frustrating not knowing the specs though. I'm planning on measuring the cam, just haven't gotten to it yet.
 
Can you give a description of how it sounds? How is the idle? Smooth like a stock engine? Rough or somewhere in between? Can you give us an idea about RPM at 60 MPH? Tire size? We could give a guess as to the gear. Throw us some bones here man. Come on man. You're the one coming for help. Don't make us pull information out of you like pullin teeth. Help us help you, ok? If your combo is mild, I will be damned if I would go with PTC. It's a GREAT company, don't get me wrong, but better deals can be had on converters that will work just fine.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Can you give a description of how it sounds? How is the idle? Smooth like a stock engine? Rough or somewhere in between? Can you give us an idea about RPM at 60 MPH? Tire size? We could give a guess as to the gear. Throw us some bones here man. Come on man. You're the one coming for help. Don't make us pull information out of you like pullin teeth. Help us help you, ok? If your combo is mild, I will be damned if I would go with PTC. It's a GREAT company, don't get me wrong, but better deals can be had on converters that will work just fine.
Click to expand...

X2. The right information first time,saves money ,time & frustration on all parties involved.
 
Alright. I'll get back to you guys after work.

I have the broadcast sheet for my car. Would that have the gear ratio?
 
Depending on where you live in Kali.... there are some decent torque converter guys on the west coast. Might be worth looking into... One thing is that a lot of the converter guys will have a sheet that you can fill out so that they can get the converter suited to your needs. might check some of the web sites and that will give you an idea of what info they are looking for.

Munsigner, Continental to name a couple.... and even these guys in Lake Havasu http://www.tcsperformance.com/ppdnew/performanceconverters.html

Having seen what a friend went through with a PTC I'd never buy one.... but a lot of folks do seem to care for them.
 
Give Lenny at Ultimate Converter a call he'll tell/build exactely what you need..
 
Give PTC accurate specs for your ride and Kenny will build you the exact converter you need
My PTC 9.5" is exactly what I ordered The only converter I would use.
 

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I've heard Hughes makes decent off the shelf converters for reasonable prices. Not sure I'd spend $700 on a custom converter with a lightly modified 318. If you end up upgrading engines later, any custom converter would probably need some modifying as well based on the new combo.
 
no matter who you call you are gonna have to know as mush as possible about the engine,car itself and your intended use. you need to be 100% honest about those things or you will never be happy with the results. the more information you have the better.

i'd call:
dynamic
ultimate
ptc

talk to them all and buy from who you are most comfortable with. they will all probably be more then 2-$300 though. but you get what you pay for in this dept and a converter can/will make or break a combination.
 
Got off work early today.

Okay, so my goal for this is really just having a nice punchy street car. It's my daily driver and I highly doubt it will ever be on a track/strip and I don't really flog on it that much on the street.

I do a fair bit of freeway driving when visiting friends and family. I've read that some converters don't like the freeway.

The broadcast sheet has the code "177" for the axle, but I don't know if that tells me anything. I got confused trying to figure out all the codes.

I'm going to take a quick power nap, and then I'll go for a drive and get the RPM at different speeds as well as the idle and report back.

Thanks again for all the input so far. I knew the subject is a sort of can-of-worms but I really don't want to mess up and get the wrong converter.

Be back in a bit.
 
I've read that some converters don't like the freeway.
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that is true with cheap 1970 technology converters. modern converter technology has come a long way. can have the best of both worlds these days..

you need to know for sure the gear ratio. should be a little tab on the rear that tells you. you jack it up and count the revolutions of the driveshaft when when turning the wheel one rotation.
 
Alright.

The tag on the diff says 2.76 and the motor idles at about 550-600 ish.

The engine sounds... more burbly than the old motor? But the old one was pretty beat. Sounds like a beast up around 5k with no valve issues I could hear and it didn't 'splode :p. I've never taken it higher because I'm worried about the transmission. (And I was actually worried just winding it that far out)

If it helps, I could make an audio recording with a nice mic.
 
A body said:
Having seen what a friend went through with a PTC I'd never buy one.... but a lot of folks do seem to care for them.
Click to expand...

Bill and Al's not so excellent adventure?

That was a nightmare. Put an ATI in it and never another problem! I won't call them either. We have an acronym for PTC around here.

Not sure I'd spend 500-700 on converter for a car like this. It's got a stockish cam in it and 2.76's. I've had good luck with shelf hughes 2500 converters, 20mpg in a 360 demon and 2.94 gears.
 
Had a 70 Duster w/318, lots of head work, 10.5:1, purple shaft Hemi Grind Cam, headers, duals, 4bbl etc. etc. Great success with mild converter for street use 400-500 rpm above stock unit. Punchy?? Can be, sounds like we want to put our foot in it. Good that's fun. Spend Money on the Rear!! 2:76 Gears on a mild 318 will not be punchy unless rocket assisted!!! Make sure you have at least an 8-1/4 rear, or better yet the 8-3/4. Get your gearing up to 3.55 ratio minimum. This is a stock ratio gear set will be reasonable $$.

The MOST BANG FOR THE BUCK< SEAT OF HE PANTS THRILL will come from getting a better rear to get that little 318 movin in a heavy stock bodied car. This Modifiacation will give your project a great start for other mods down the road as budget allows. Been there ate plenty of mac and cheese.

BTW that little Duster had 3.91 gears and pulled 12.80 time slips at E-Town w/ open exhaust and 9" cheater slicks.

Good Luck Dart 440
 
I haven't started learning about rear ends yet. Planned on diving into that when I start gathering parts for disc brakes but that's a couple "phases" away.

That Hughes model I linked is listed as 2500 stall. Does that seem too high for my modest purposes? They also have a model listed with a stall speed of 2000.
 
As hard as it is to find now, many times a good local transmission repair shop can make one up for you out of a used core. I have done three that way and all were priced quite reasonable and are still in service some 17yrs later. I had the whole trans overhauled and the converter was part of my package $300.00 for the whole deal, but this was several years ago. When I did my two Camaro's and the Duster I used 2,400 as the stall number. Has worked well with 3:08 on up to 3:55 gears. RVish cams, Holley 600, Edelbrock performer intake with headers and a free flowing exhaust.

The smaller diameter converters usually have a higher stall rpm. You really just need to read up on the suggested stall speed for your given combination of parts and intended use. Cam manufacturers many times reference a suggested stall speed and axle ratio too. And of course the cam has to work with the heads, intake and exhaust system. Converter is just one piece of the equation.

Also, do you have a tachometer installed? If it's a stout little driver type 318, if the stall is in the 2200-2400 range it is good the way it is. I think 1,300 is a stockish stall speed. I really like the throttle response I get on the roll in high gear on the low end with my 2400 stall. Gear changes are not really necessary to keep pace with traffic when the car is moving.
 
I'm trying to keep the whole rebuild process to one weekend since the car is my DD so pulling the old converter and having it rebuilt doesn't really jive with the plan.

I do have a tach. Just installed it a week or so ago in preparation for the rebuild since I'm doing a manual valve body.
 
Sometimes the intended use is not just speed:



Turns out a 3:55 geared/limited slip, 360 small block with an automatic transmission, mild stall, super stock springs and disk brakes makes an excellent tow vehicle.
 
Corrupt_Reverend said:
I'm trying to keep the whole rebuild process to one weekend since the car is my DD so pulling the old converter and having it rebuilt doesn't really jive with the plan.

I do have a tach. Just installed it a week or so ago in preparation for the rebuild since I'm doing a manual valve body.
Click to expand...

What's the stall speed now? When my Duster was a daily driver in college I made sure I had a back up plan:

 
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