Torque Flight Shift Problem

-
AzDUSTER

AzDUSTER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Messages
107
Reaction score
21
Location
Glendale, Az
Hi - Any help or comments would be appreciated.

Was out on a drive today (71 Duster w/ 360) and the floor shifter all of a sudden would not put the car in anything but the first low gear. The shifter moves to all positions but car remains in first only ... no park, reverse, neutral or 2nd-3rd.

The floor shift linkage seems to be okay ... have not been under the car yet.

Thanks
 
What Brand Shifter.
More times than not it is shifter not operating correctly issue.
 
I have the same problem with a B&M cable operated shifter. The outer casing melted and the cable goes out the slot/hole when I try to move into any gear other than first. First gear is when the cable is stretched the most and the tension pulls it back into the cable housing. How it melted is a mystery ATM as I haven't figured out what heat source melted the casing. Usually the culprit is the header but the cable is a few inches away from the nearest header pipe.
 
Factory Shifter or aftermarket Cable op? The factory linkage nut on the little pinch sleeve can come loose screwing you.... and it says above if that cable gets melted or breaks it's where it is.... if you got someone you trust with balls one of you can get underneath there for one of you hold the brake on and you can click it back into drive and then get it home be very careful if you do this Brother. As in, Maybe Chock the Tires, tie off to 2 trees, and or trucks, all information is for Emergency Purposes Only. I don't need the above precautions, some may. If you decide to attempt something like that, once you verify what the problem is, all you have to do is move the shifter linkage lever at the transmission... never attempt that by yourself, you can do this with the car shut off though in the engine not running which is a Blessing. If you have to pop it off and drive you need to disconnect the neutral safety again this is only if your car is going to be left somewhere where it can get stolen you could be robbed and you don't have money for a tow truck and you just have to get it home...
 
Last edited:
I mean I'd do it in a heartbeat, but I'm just half crazy.... also if you've ran the car recently and you do call underneath there do not touch anything hot with your face or forearms it will burn the **** out of you
 
I would say the shifter cable melted on the exhaust and now the outer case of the cable fanned out.. Take steel wire and wrap it around it tightly for a temporary repair
 
Thanks for all of the help guys. The red casing around the cable melted ... going to order a new one.

Does anyone know how long that shift cable should be or what part number ? Saw many part numbers and lengths.
 
Never saw a brand or model shifter.
AzDUSTER said:
Thanks for all of the help guys. The red casing around the cable melted ... going to order a new one.

Does anyone know how long that shift cable should be or what part number ? Saw many part numbers and lengths.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry it is a B&M ... I don't have a model number.

B&M 20221106_155607_resized.jpg


B&M 20221106_155843_resized.jpg
 
dart_68 said:
I have the same problem with a B&M cable operated shifter. The outer casing melted and the cable goes out the slot/hole when I try to move into any gear other than first. First gear is when the cable is stretched the most and the tension pulls it back into the cable housing. How it melted is a mystery ATM as I haven't figured out what heat source melted the casing. Usually the culprit is the header but the cable is a few inches away from the nearest header pipe.
Click to expand...
Be sure the car is well grounded. I've seen a ground connect through the shifter cable and melt the housing just like you indicated.
 
That appears to be a B&M Z-Gate shifter.
 
65TerrorCuda said:
I'd suggest doing a heat sleeve while you're at it. Money well spent when it defies your best efforts and ends up against the header. BTDT
Click to expand...
I ain't ran mine Yet, BUT following some nice routes shown here, on FAMOUS FABO!!!!!!! and some silly cone Hi-temp 1000° cable wrap from a "speedshop" I Shall NOT name, I'm Prayin' it'll be fine. Although, it was Tighter than before I Routed it and Wrapped it. Wondering if that's Common, to see More Drag?
 
Ironracer said:
I ain't ran mine Yet, BUT following some nice routes shown here, on FAMOUS FABO!!!!!!! and some silly cone Hi-temp 1000° cable wrap from a "speedshop" I Shall NOT name, I'm Prayin' it'll be fine. Although, it was Tighter than before I Routed it and Wrapped it. Wondering if that's Common, to see More Drag?
Click to expand...
I think you'll be fine. If it's adjusted right and not on fire. Mine does drag but it was like that from Hurst, day 1, 1996-ish.
 
Ironracer said:
Is the "Race Cable" the Thicker/ Stronger unit? Or just Racing D3ms
Click to expand...
Shorter, thicker, stronger and due to all the above the feel of the shifts are a lot more solid and positive feeling.
Being only 36” it’s pretty much a half circle from the shifter to the trans, so the cable doesn’t have to get routed around because of extra length or forward of the rear of the block under headers.
 
Thanks again guys ... have a new cable ordered and will put a heat wrap around it. Also will look at the ground situation.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top