torque limit on frozen water pump bolt

-
1

1969dodgedartgt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Messages
1,010
Reaction score
4
Location
CA
how much (foot pound) torque dare I put on my frozen water pump bolt before I risk breaking it off and getting it stuck in there. I'll use a 1/2" drive on the 9/16 socket if I can find such a socket

thanks
 
Pump to housing or housing to block??If the others came out without a problem,you can try some penatration oil and if that does not work it's time for some heat:violent2:
 
its more than likley froze in the timing cover and you will have to brake the bolt...but it will break close to the head of the bolt.ive had to bust the cover b4 to get it apart.is your motor still in the car?
 
moter is in car, its my driver,
the frozen bolts are the one for adjusting the ps pump and the ones holding the alternator bracket on.
 
someone probly didnt put silacone on the threads and water seeped and froze it in the timing cover,its a pain in the ballz when its in the car....when the oil pans off you can wiggle it loose if its one butt yours is both.....i wood try zap if you can find it.it is a really good penatrating oil.if all else fails you can cut the timing cover where the bolts are then they should turn out.......sounds like fun
 
I would soak the hell out of it with P'Blaster....like overnight. and I mean DRENCH the thing. Then get a 3/8 impact wrench and turn it down low, slowly increasing it. I say 3/8 because they are better controlled. Try switching directions with it every now and then. If it does not come out that way, it's going to break.
 
I would use a small torch and like was said drench it with pb blaster a few days before messin with it and loosen some tighten some
 
Heat it and then hit it with pb blaster.
After letting it sit for a while,try to loosen it, but don't break it.

If it's still stuck,heat the part of the block the bolts screwed into.
Always heat the part that's holding the bolt.
Don't heat the bolt itself.
Take your time and good luck.
:violent1: I hate rust and corrosion.
 
I agree the heat idea is great. Just remember, you have an aluminum timing cover RIGHT THERE. Don't get it too hot. Only reason I suggest the impact wrench is because they are famous for getting out rusted bolts. But you really have to have finnese with it. Just be careful whatever you do and you'll probably get it out. also as was mentioned, once you do get it out, make sure to coat the bolts GOOD with red high temp silicone. That will prevent it from happening again. One more thing I'll add. If all of this fails to loosen it up and you REALLY think it will break, here's what you do. Cut the head off the bolt and slide the water pump off of it. This will leave enough to grab the bolt with vise grips and try to get it out.....however this is a last resort kinda thing. Because ultimately, you may end up having to remove the timing cover. It's not that bad a job, but it sure would be nice if you didn't have to do it.
 
StrokerScamp said:
I agree the heat idea is great. Just remember, you have an aluminum timing cover RIGHT THERE. Don't get it too hot. Only reason I suggest the impact wrench is because they are famous for getting out rusted bolts. But you really have to have finnese with it. Just be careful whatever you do and you'll probably get it out. also as was mentioned, once you do get it out, make sure to coat the bolts GOOD with red high temp silicone. That will prevent it from happening again. One more thing I'll add. If all of this fails to loosen it up and you REALLY think it will break, here's what you do. Cut the head off the bolt and slide the water pump off of it. This will leave enough to grab the bolt with vise grips and try to get it out.....however this is a last resort kinda thing. Because ultimately, you may end up having to remove the timing cover. It's not that bad a job, but it sure would be nice if you didn't have to do it.
Click to expand...

I agree with using a impact set on low to medium. The hammering action will knock the rust/corrosion loose and take a frozen bolt out with much less chance of breaking it.
 
.
Once again, there is "nothing" that works as well as "KROIL"

If using penetrating oil is part of your plan, use the best.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1241379&postcount=16



thumbnail.jpg


KROIL has many products for automotive, marine, and aircraft.

Made here in the US, their products are the best available.

http://www.kanolabs.com/
.
​
 
not quite what I wanted to hear but great info to the end, thanks much

I'll get me some of that penetrating oil and see what I can do
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
not quite what I wanted to hear but great info to the end, thanks much
Click to expand...

If you wanted an actual # of ft. lbs. that would be impossible for anyone to say for a couple reasons.

1. We don't know what grade bolt is in it.

2. An old corroded bolt won't take as much to break it as a new bolt so even if we knew the grade it would still be impossible to say.

p.s. if you don't have an impact or can't get one in there put your wrench or socket and ratchet on it and tap on the wrench/ratchet handle with a small hammer to simulate impacting. Works the same, just take a little elbow grease.
 
1969dodgedartgt said:
not quite what I wanted to hear but great info to the end, thanks much

I'll get me some of that penetrating oil and see what I can do
Click to expand...

Don't jerk the wench but use leverage and a smooth steady force. I use a pipe over my ratchet. The higher your hand the more even force you can give.

Yeah impacts are great, if you got an air compressor. I don't.

One way or another its coming out. If needed a new timing case cover is needed, Look on ebay or buy new form Summit, etc. Be like $100

If you have a cut off wheel and your pretty sure your at the break limit and its frozen stiff. A quick cut above the bolt would let a screwdriver in to pound-spread the metal and you could spray more oil in. Should go then, new cover is then needed.

I seen them break in the block before.
 
What about drilling 2 small holes into the timing cover above the bolt...that way you can add penetrating oil into the holes and get it directly onto the shaft of the bolt.
 
I had the same problem. Penetrating oil, heat, impact (electric with no balls), nothing, and I mean nothing worked. I wound up breaking the bolt head off when I used a 6 ft piece of pipe on the end of my breaker bar. :angry5: At that point I was able to pull the water pump off and attach a stud puller to the remaining bolt shaft that was sticking out of the timing cover. Again, 6 ft breaker bar was used and twisted it until it broke, right at the timing cover. :angryfir:

What I wound up doing was beating some small metal wedges in between the block and timing cover. After an hour of beating these wedges and prying with screwdrivers it finally came off. :cheers: I know that's not the recommended way of doing it, but at that point I was on a mission to get that cover off no matter what it took. It worked though, that cover is now on my magnum motor.

I know this doesn't help, but I just thought I would share my experience with the most stubborn timing cover bolt in history. :angel9:
 
69swinger340391 said:
What about drilling 2 small holes into the timing cover above the bolt...that way you can add penetrating oil into the holes and get it directly onto the shaft of the bolt.
Click to expand...

That could work to, just get some of the metal off and plan on replacing the cover. They are cheap enough on ebay. The metal is soft and easy to drill/crack.
 
Sometimes if you can smack the head of the bolt straight on with a hammer it will break the surface tension of the threads and help to loosen it.
 
It's almost always corroded to alum timing cover. Soak, smack bolt straight in, repeat many times. Then the leverage pipe. If it feels like gonna break; cut off the head, soak, then start wedging cover off. Anti-seize is good stuff to coat new bolts going thru aluminum.
 
I just had the same problem on my 318. I used a oxy acetaline torch and carefully heated the side of the timing cover til the bolt started to move. Came out no problem.
 
dodge freak said:
SO like update? What happen??
Click to expand...


oh, i read about kroil vs pblaster online, kroil seems to be the winner.
you can buy kroil on amazon.com but good luck finding it in a brick and mortar.
I bought some pblaster, soaked over night, took my 3/8 ratchet to it and hit it a bit on the handle with a hammer to simulate impact socket, but nothing. I'll try hitting it straight on with hammer as the last few have said, and I'll try taking a pipe over the handle to get more leverage, but for now other things have taken precedence.

if the above doesnt work, i'll take it somewhere where I can get some heat put on it.

I'll update when something really happens. In the mean time, i'm happy to see more ideas being posted here, like the hammer straight on (even though I dont have much clearance for that, it sounds good)
 
Had same problem. Heat ,oil ,and then the 3/8 impact worked for me. Ended up replacing timing cover and bolts when i put it back together. Everything was corroded bad. Be sure to use silicone on the bolts that thread into coolant jackets when putting it back together. Anti freeze raises hell with aluminum. WHO SELLS KROIL? NEVER HEARD OF IT. WANT TO GIVE IT A TRY.
 
Kroil is good stuff but a Lil gasoline and brake fluid or trans fluid mixed does the same thing on the cheap,another great penetrating oil comes from used shock absorbers just punch a Lil' hole in them with a rag covering so the gas don't spray ya in the face...yea that sounds like a pain to get but it's just another way to recycle,I just throw all my old shocks in a pile and when I need penetrating oil or have a bunch of them i put it into a spray bottle
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top