torque specs for wheels

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mvh said:
If you had, say, a 69, you'd know better than to take it to Costco, because they'd set the gun to 200ft/lb trying to remove the left side lugs by turning them the wrong way. After they broke three off they'd tell you to go elsewhere... LOL
Click to expand...

Ain't that the truth! :violent2:
 
My Cragar washers are crushing @ 80 ft/lbs of torque.... Should I reduce the torque? I don't think 65ft/lbs is tight enough
 
mvh said:
If you had, say, a 69, you'd know better than to take it to Costco, because they'd set the gun to 200ft/lb trying to remove the left side lugs by turning them the wrong way. After they broke three off they'd tell you to go elsewhere... LOL
Click to expand...
I was given an 8 3/4 that had 2 busted studs on the left side. After that they just cut the wheel off with a torch. The other three came right off. Get it? Right off.
 
My young helper would click torque wrench 2 or 3 times.
I had to explain click means stop.
I then road test and recheck torque. Every car. If they arent on my chart, i use my hardware app to rough guess the torque.
 
Raul said:
My Cragar washers are crushing @ 80 ft/lbs of torque.... Should I reduce the torque? I don't think 65ft/lbs is tight enough
Click to expand...
If something is permanently distorting, then the metal has exceeded the elastic limit. Threaded fasteners resist backing out because the threads are under enough pressure they deform, but not permanently. Once it permanently deforms, there's no tension and therefore no clampoing force.
 
Its also important to remember to go around the lug nuts two or three times to ensure they are all tight, ive tightened lugs up with a torque wrench and the second or third time going around you could see a lug nut or two move slightly and feel it in the torque wrench.

Also always tighten in a star pattern on odd number lugs and in a cross pattern on even number lugs
 
No one has pointed out that uneven torque on late model rotors will cause them to warp real fast.

For whatever reason this never used to be a problem on older cars.
 
Another thing too guys. If you paint your wheels, make sure there is no paint where the wheel contacts the mating surface. Ie. rotor or drum.Iif not, the paint gets squishy and can loosen up the wheel.
 
found this old thread as Broke a Moser Screw in Stud. Moser said the stud {#8} goes in at 55#'s because it has a lock washed behind it.
But to put the Lug Nuts on the steel wheels at #85.
I installed them same as the fronts, at #65.
Reason I had to change one was on the the 1/2" 20 nuts was cross threaded.
Back when i had the front rears off at a buddies shop. I put the fronts on. took a bathroom brake and came back and the rears were on with an inpact.
My biggest Braker Bar with a pipe is what it took to get that "Lug Nut" off! {ie} Brake the Screw In Stud.
I have a set of 15x8 Ram "Charger Wheels" that take Dog Dish Caps off a 1978 or so Ram Charger that had damage to the wholes. My son worhed a a Wheel repair place that mostly does New Aloys. But was able to fix them.
They guy across from me has a Harbor Frieght Impact. He has it turned all the way up. Says that they should go on so they do not come off. That you have the gun when they do.
I never asked hom what happenes when he gets a flat.
 
On his old truck that he did that he had to redo the brakes 2 times as they Rotors were warped.
Wonder WHY? I told him Cheap Thin and "Over Tight" lug nuts.
He says but Tire places use them! I said but they also use Torque Sticks.
He is doing it on the new truck now too. Bet he complains to the dealer
 
Torque sticks get a bad rep. If the impact is adjusted properly they work great. I agree on hand torquing wheels, i do on both my bronco and demon but at work it takes too much time, unless its a porsche bmw land rover or go fast car they get hand torqed the rest they get the torque sticks
 
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