Except that's
NOT the stock position. When the tie rods are parallel to the ground the car will be significantly lowered from the factory height.
Yes, you are correct, having the control arms and tie rods close to parallel to the ground is the best geometry for bump steer, as well as for camber gain when cornering and that geometry will improve handling all the way around if it's executed properly (larger torsion bars). And that's about where my cars are set up. But that's a lot lower than factory.
Here are the factory specs below (A-bodies use the V & L specs), as well as how to set the factory ride height. Now, keep in mind that the alignment specs are for bias ply's and should
NOT be used with radial tires. And this is when the argument that the factory knew best goes out the window, because all of the stock alignment specs and geometry was intended to be used with bias ply's. When you mount radials, you need a totally different alignment AND geometry. Bias ply's don't like negative camber, radials do, and the stock camber gain plots reflect that from the stock ride height. With radials you're better off lowering the car so that the control arms are roughly parallel to the ground, but that lowers the car well over 1" from stock. And you should be running an alignment from the SKOSH chart (further below), not using the factory specs. And of course if you do lower that much you need larger torsion bars to reduce the amount of suspension travel used, since lowered cars have less available travel. Otherwise your car will be on the bump stops all the time.
As far as the original questions- Yes, you can use the torsion bar adjusters to raise the car
some. Yes, you will absolutely need an alignment, just like any time you change the ride height. The amount you can raise the car will be determined by the ability to dial in acceptable alignment numbers (not very much). Outside of that, it's only limited by the length of the adjusters and the bumpstops, but you'll run out of alignment adjustment before either of those are a problem. You could install offset UCA bushings, although you would likely have to install them opposite from what is "normal", since they're usually used to regain decent alignment numbers on lowered cars. That would allow you to get your camber and caster numbers back to spec, but the bump steer would need a completely different solution.
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Alignment numbers for radial tires. Camber specs are good, so is toe. Caster should be as much as you can get up to about +3* if you have manual steering unless you don't mind the extra effort, sky's the limit for power, more caster = more stability at speed.
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