Trailer towing hookup questions

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rod7515

rod7515

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Im going to be towing with a 98 Dodge 1500 Sport. My car trailer is an 18' with a dove tail ramp on back. I would like to get my truck setup to the trailer correct so it drives and handles the best possible when towing my 66 Dart. This is an open, dual axle 7k trailer and it has electric brakes that work. Here are a few questions I have about towing hookup.
Should the trailer sit level, slightly up or slightly down for best towing? I have a 3.5" drop receiver and the top of the ball is 20.5". When I hook up the trailer on level ground the trailer front is 7" higher then the back of trailer just before dove tail. I'm thinking I need to go to at least a 5" drop?
Also a big concern is the tongue weight once loaded. I've seen different setups with scales built into the receiver or with the ball. Then I've talked to people that say use a bathroom scale. (don't think mine would go past 250 or 300 lbs) But what should be a correct tongue weight and how are you measuring it?
I would like to space the weight of the load to be evenly distributed on the trailer axle so that the tires do not get over worked/heated as I drive. Also how do you secure your car down once on the trailer? I've read some pull down on body which compresses the shocks and springs/torsion bars and others say just secure over the a-arms and rear end housing but let body move. What about the newer style wheel wrap tie downs?
Also how hard do you setup the brakes from the controller?
Would appreciate any advice and experience any of you can offer. Since I am just setting it up I would like to get it right the first time.
Thanks Rod
 
Trailer should sit level, and 10% of the loaded trailers weight should be your tongue weight.
I've used the U-Haul trailers a few times with the ratcheting net that goes over the front wheels, with safety chains. That has towed fantastic.
I have also added cris-crossed ratchet straps to prevent side to side bouncing, though it was probably unnecessary.
Car towing was either local/short-haul or long distance behind a moving truck, so I didn't worry too much about tongue weight. My camper is lightweight, so I estimate tongue weight by feel, so not too much help in that department.
Link below to measure rise or drop. I measured my truck with the weight of the trailer on The hitch, but measured the trailer while it is sitting level on the tongue jack.
http://www.cequentconsumerproducts.com/_literature_104079/How_to_Measure_Ball_Mounts
 
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rod7515 said:
Im going to be towing with a 98 Dodge 1500 Sport. My car trailer is an 18' with a dove tail ramp on back. I would like to get my truck setup to the trailer correct so it drives and handles the best possible when towing my 66 Dart. This is an open, dual axle 7k trailer and it has electric brakes that work. Here are a few questions I have about towing hookup.
Should the trailer sit level, slightly up or slightly down for best towing? I have a 3.5" drop receiver and the top of the ball is 20.5". When I hook up the trailer on level ground the trailer front is 7" higher then the back of trailer just before dove tail. I'm thinking I need to go to at least a 5" drop?
Also a big concern is the tongue weight once loaded. I've seen different setups with scales built into the receiver or with the ball. Then I've talked to people that say use a bathroom scale. (don't think mine would go past 250 or 300 lbs) But what should be a correct tongue weight and how are you measuring it?
I would like to space the weight of the load to be evenly distributed on the trailer axle so that the tires do not get over worked/heated as I drive. Also how do you secure your car down once on the trailer? I've read some pull down on body which compresses the shocks and springs/torsion bars and others say just secure over the a-arms and rear end housing but let body move. What about the newer style wheel wrap tie downs?
Also how hard do you setup the brakes from the controller?
Would appreciate any advice and experience any of you can offer. Since I am just setting it up I would like to get it right the first time.
Thanks Rod
Click to expand...

Level at load is what you want! your truck is light for the intended purpose though (IMO). You need a 2500 or 3500 truck! Good the trailer has brakes but you are down on power for the highway speeds commonly seen!
 
I highly suggest a sway control setup with weight spread hitch. It is amazing how quickly a tailwhip can send you out of control
 
I don't worry much about tongue weight, I load it so it tows good. You DO want the trailer level LOADED if you can get it. You can play with car positioning

Consider stiffer rear springs/ overloads/ air bags.

Consider upgrading your brakes.....I forget the details I think you use 3/4T front calipers and pads, and larger rear cylinders. They do make the brakes pretty "touchy" "empty."

You may benefit from a load equalizer hitch of some sort. This is going to depend on your rear suspension and tires. On mine, I added extra leaves. These are not overloads, they are added right next to the "main stack" and are "in effect" at all times. I REALLY lucked out with these, as they were junkers and I "threw them in" and they just WORKED

Depending on your rear axle ratio, you may not "have fun" towing with this. I just dragged home a Durango on the "Goat Trail" Hiway 95 from Pullman WA to Coeur d Alene. This is a hilly, windy, narrow highway and in many places is 55-60mph. The way the "white whale" is geared (rear axle) You are BELOW THE HP CURVE at 60 or less. This means that you are locked out of OD, and the converter wants to kick in and out, and up hills may spend a fair amount of time in SECOND GEAR. I was considering installing a switch to keep the converter UNlocked, but I am trying to head towards a 3/4 T "project" It's the WW III lol (White Whale III)

Trying out towing the Farmall The WWI, a 1500 2wd

2lo4ppe.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
I don't worry much about tongue weight, I load it so it tows good. You DO want the trailer level LOADED if you can get it. You can play with car positioning

Consider stiffer rear springs/ overloads/ air bags.

Consider upgrading your brakes.....I forget the details I think you use 3/4T front calipers and pads, and larger rear cylinders. They do make the brakes pretty "touchy" "empty."

You may benefit from a load equalizer hitch of some sort. This is going to depend on your rear suspension and tires. On mine, I added extra leaves. These are not overloads, they are added right next to the "main stack" and are "in effect" at all times. I REALLY lucked out with these, as they were junkers and I "threw them in" and they just WORKED

Depending on your rear axle ratio, you may not "have fun" towing with this. I just dragged home a Durango on the "Goat Trail" Hiway 95 from Pullman WA to Coeur d Alene. This is a hilly, windy, narrow highway and in many places is 55-60mph. The way the "white whale" is geared (rear axle) You are BELOW THE HP CURVE at 60 or less. This means that you are locked out of OD, and the converter wants to kick in and out, and up hills may spend a fair amount of time in SECOND GEAR. I was considering installing a switch to keep the converter UNlocked, but I am trying to head towards a 3/4 T "project" It's the WW III lol (White Whale III)
Click to expand...


That is why I have a 2015 RAM 3500 CTD Dually to pull my 37' ft 5ver and 24' enclosed hauler. The Aisin 6 speed auto is awesome and rarely downshifts in cruise @ 70-75MPH . Damn awesome truck! I ordered it with 4.11 gears and it will pull like a freight train. I can pass most anyone uphill with 16k of trailer in tow! I tried the 1500 route years ago and it only works for short hauls non interstate routes!
 
I towed my 17' trailer on my Dad's 99 ram 150 with a 360 just fine without any drop hitch (sat level) or any sway preventers and you hardly knew it was there. My trailer also had hydrolic brakes so I don't know how the electric brakes feel. I did all of my towing locally but a few friends went a few hundred miles also without any issue. I would suggest a trans cooler and make sure you don't tow while it's in overdrive,it will burn up your trans.
 
Sedanman said:
I towed my 17' trailer on my Dad's 99 ram 150 with a 360 just fine without any drop hitch (sat level) or any sway preventers and you hardly knew it was there. My trailer also had hydrolic brakes so I don't know how the electric brakes feel. I did all of my towing locally but a few friends went a few hundred miles also without any issue. I would suggest a trans cooler and make sure you don't tow while it's in overdrive,it will burn up your trans.
Click to expand...

Hitch will vary depending on ride height. I have several different drop hitches depending on what I tow. My Seadoos need an 8 inch drop, my hauler only a 4", the 5ver is on a B&W factory prep and have to load/unload with my engine hoist cause it weighs so much.
 
We pulled a 19 ft Featherlite enclosed with a 96 1500 360 for several years. Always ran with overdrive off, but at 70 mph on the interstates it would sway radically when you would get in the ruts the rigs cause. We ended up losing a spindle and wheel due to this 11 miles out from Carlisle. That weekend, the sway control setup was on- huge difference in the way the truck rode and the amount of control it gave. Not long after that , my buddy was towing his pro street Dart on the highway, caught the edge the wrong way and ended up totaling his car. All it takes is once. A little prevention can save your life
 
Remember a couple things.

The brakes and suspension are drastically different from 1500 to 2500 and 3500.

1500 trucks are light duty and best suited to small boats and trailers. When you get to higher loads you need to be safe and able to drive and stop at highway speeds. I am not saying your 1500 can't tow the car but just think about all the factors!
 
Hey how about that, it's a question I can help with!

X1 on making the trailer level. I've had them be low in the front by an inch or so with no detrimental handling but the front 7" higher than the back will lead to swaying and even worse, poor control and braking. In an extreme braking situation it can lead to a jackknife. The trailer height should be determined when loaded. The ball height on the truck will sink several inches with the car on the trailer as opposed to an empty trailer. I'm guessing the gross weight on your empty trailer is about 1500 lbs, and a 66 Dart should be about 2800 lbs for total payload of 4300. So a tongue weight of about 375-450 lbs is about right. Taking the rig to a commercial truck scale is well worth the time and the few bucks it will cost to get an accurate weight on each axle with your loaded trailer. Load distribution is important, as you don't want the car too far forward or rearward on the trailer. About 55-60% of the load in front of the midpoint between your axles is a good number. Don't worry about your tires getting overheated or worn, if they are properly rated for the load and properly inflated they will be fine. At the commercial scale you can move the car forward and backward a bit to get a true reading of the tongue weight and load distribution. Once you find the sweet spot mark the trailer floor or frame where the front tire sits and you won't have to monkey with it again.

Also, make sure you look at the hitch on your truck, it will list the max tongue weight and total weight it will handle. Most any half ton truck should be able to tow your combination well.

Not to nitpick, but the receiver on your truck is the 2" square receptacle mounted to the frame. What you currently have is a 3.5" drop on your stinger (the part that slides into the receiver). I am a huge fan of adjustable stingers, as it's a snap to raise and lower it for loaded or empty trailers, as well as taller/shorter trailers and different gross weight trailers. Below is mine, and the two parts to the right are an Adjust-A-Ball system. That ball system has one mounting shaft with interchangeable balls covering the three most popular ball sizes (1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16"). With this combo I can tow anything within the capacity of my truck.

stinger.jpg


When it comes to securing the car, I've tried every method, and correctly done all will work well. As RogerRamRod says, the over-the-wheel strap rigs work well and are very adjustable. Whether you use one each on the front tires with chains on the rear axle, or use four of them (one per wheel) they work great. The straps and how they are arranged and tightened can be a bit confusing at first but once you figure it out they work fine. Securing via the frame of the vehicle is a more solid arrangement since the car won't be moving around on the suspension but unless you're on very rough roads or driving like a bat out of hell, the wheel nets should suffice.

Setting the trailer brakes needs to be done for both empty and loaded as they will be very different settings. For either configuration, find a wide open parking lot and get the vehicle going about 10 MPH and pull the manual brake lever all the way on. The brakes should just lock up and start sliding. This is a good starting point. Now drive at about 35 MPH, and brake using just the foot pedal. You should feel the trailer brakes grab just before the truck brakes. Adjust the setting as needed. Especially when loaded, I like the trailer to start braking JUST BEFORE the truck starts braking. You want the trailer to brake just a hair (and this is truly just a hair) more than the truck. Once you find the right settings jot them down for both empty and loaded, for future reference.

One last thought, the weight of your loaded trailer is going to be fairly close to your truck weight. On any kind of uneven road this can lead to bucking as the trailer is going up while the truck is going down, or vice versa. It's very tiring and can be eliminated with an equalizer hitch.

If all of this is clear as mud feel free to send me a PM and I can walk you though any needed details.

Zach
 
halfafish said:
Hey how about that, it's a question I can help with!

X1 on making the trailer level. I've had them be low in the front by an inch or so with no detrimental handling but the front 7" higher than the back will lead to swaying and even worse, poor control and braking. In an extreme braking situation it can lead to a jackknife. The trailer height should be determined when loaded. The ball height on the truck will sink several inches with the car on the trailer as opposed to an empty trailer. I'm guessing the gross weight on your empty trailer is about 1500 lbs, and a 66 Dart should be about 2800 lbs for total payload of 4300. So a tongue weight of about 375-450 lbs is about right. Taking the rig to a commercial truck scale is well worth the time and the few bucks it will cost to get an accurate weight on each axle with your loaded trailer. Load distribution is important, as you don't want the car too far forward or rearward on the trailer. About 55-60% of the load in front of the midpoint between your axles is a good number. Don't worry about your tires getting overheated or worn, if they are properly rated for the load and properly inflated they will be fine. At the commercial scale you can move the car forward and backward a bit to get a true reading of the tongue weight and load distribution. Once you find the sweet spot mark the trailer floor or frame where the front tire sits and you won't have to monkey with it again.

Also, make sure you look at the hitch on your truck, it will list the max tongue weight and total weight it will handle. Most any half ton truck should be able to tow your combination well.

Not to nitpick, but the receiver on your truck is the 2" square receptacle mounted to the frame. What you currently have is a 3.5" drop on your stinger (the part that slides into the receiver). I am a huge fan of adjustable stingers, as it's a snap to raise and lower it for loaded or empty trailers, as well as taller/shorter trailers and different gross weight trailers. Below is mine, and the two parts to the right are an Adjust-A-Ball system. That ball system has one mounting shaft with interchangeable balls covering the three most popular ball sizes (1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16"). With this combo I can tow anything within the capacity of my truck.

View attachment 1715057011

When it comes to securing the car, I've tried every method, and correctly done all will work well. As RogerRamRod says, the over-the-wheel strap rigs work well and are very adjustable. Whether you use one each on the front tires with chains on the rear axle, or use four of them (one per wheel) they work great. The straps and how they are arranged and tightened can be a bit confusing at first but once you figure it out they work fine. Securing via the frame of the vehicle is a more solid arrangement since the car won't be moving around on the suspension but unless you're on very rough roads or driving like a bat out of hell, the wheel nets should suffice.

Setting the trailer brakes needs to be done for both empty and loaded as they will be very different settings. For either configuration, find a wide open parking lot and get the vehicle going about 10 MPH and pull the manual brake lever all the way on. The brakes should just lock up and start sliding. This is a good starting point. Now drive at about 35 MPH, and brake using just the foot pedal. You should feel the trailer brakes grab just before the truck brakes. Adjust the setting as needed. Especially when loaded, I like the trailer to start braking JUST BEFORE the truck starts braking. You want the trailer to brake just a hair (and this is truly just a hair) more than the truck. Once you find the right settings jot them down for both empty and loaded, for future reference.

One last thought, the weight of your loaded trailer is going to be fairly close to your truck weight. On any kind of uneven road this can lead to bucking as the trailer is going up while the truck is going down, or vice versa. It's very tiring and can be eliminated with an equalizer hitch.

If all of this is clear as mud feel free to send me a PM and I can walk you though any needed details.

Zach
Click to expand...


Good Post,

I agree with the straps for sure. I fitted my trailer with e-track and use bonnets on all four tires!

IMG_1154.JPG
 
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Approximately three fifths of cargo weight should be in front of the center point between the two trailer axles. If you want a quick and violent out of control trailer just load it tail heavy. The truck is made to ( and should ) carry a fair portion of the weight. Your manual should give you the trucks weight ratings. The bumper should also have weight ratings stamped on it. Weight distribution/sway control hitches are a valuable asset.
Yote
 
great thread! fixin to set up some tow vehicles my self and need to study up! wish had mony to just buy a stacker to go behind my pete!!
 
Thanks for all the great replys. As many have mentioned I would be better off with a heavier truck. However I have no other use for a truck and it is strickly for towing my car to the drags (if it ever gets finished!) which is about 45 miles from my house. I found this truck and it needed lots of work as it had been sitting for 8 years not running. Ive replaced every brake componet on the truck including heavy duty pads and rotors.
I will only be racing 2 - 3 times a year if that. The route I need to travel will have 2 good size hills which will be about 1/2 mile each. Speed limit on that area of the road is 45 and I am expecting to have to go into 2nd gear since the 5.2 isnt loaded with power!
I like the idea of the adjustable "stinger". As for the ball setup Ive never seen the interchangeable ball that halfafish uses. any idea who sells that?
It looks like I need to load the car on the trailer and head to the local feed mill where they have a scale to get a good idea about weight.
My goal is to get set correctly so that it tows safely. I appreciate every ones help.
Thanks Rod
 
My 99 1500 says 7,500lbs max i burned up the pinion bearing towing too much a couple years ago.
 
The lighter the tow vehicle, the more defensive and careful you need to be. The 1/2 ton will do it, but as said - a decent hill will probably get the brakes hot enough to smell unless you're careful. If it was me I'd buy the weight bar package. I like a little extra weight on the hitch and load accordingly. I've slid sideways off the highway before. It sucks. So do it right, and be aware of everything.
 
Rodney, The truck we used was a GM 1500. It had the 'heavy duty tow package' just never had the brake control installed. Ran that at 30-40 and the trailer played nice. Also, he has extended cab and a cap with heavy tool boxes.
With the Duster back wheels between the drop loops, the back of the car was near the back of the trailer. It sunk just a little under tongue weight till he added air to the bags. He installed the air bags when he was using it as a service truck. ( With the boxes load with tools it sat on the frame) FYI, we did come back over Peter's mountain - I think I saw Stefan sweating a bit on that one and the AC was working fine. LOL
 
Nice write up Zach. Much more info than I could provide. I actually need a rise hitch, my truck is mostly a commuter, it is lowered & I use it for occasional camping.
I did tow a heavy cargo trailer once, but it was I-75 & I-95 from Fl to Va. (read-FLAT) and the trailer had brakes. I was super cautious the whole way, Though a blowout on the trailer 'bout caused me to **** myself.
 
I assume that You have a 2-5/16" hitch ball. -- I'm a fan of a solid hitch insert vs. a hollow tube type - 1-1/4" or 1-3/8" shank, on ball - weld the nut to the shank, on the bottom side. -- As previously stated, load a little bit center of trailer axles. - I pull the car on, until I feel the trailer drop, very slightly, on the front. -- This keeps the trailer a little below level, on the front. -- On towed vehicle - Emergency brake on, (if possible) - car in gear, or park - 4 straps. -- Happy Motoring.
 
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rod7515 said:
I like the idea of the adjustable "stinger". As for the ball setup Ive never seen the interchangeable ball that halfafish uses. any idea who sells that?
Click to expand...

Rod,
The adjustable stingers are widely available. Below is one on Amazon that has lots of vertical adjustment. Also, I swapped out the securement bolts for pins and keepers on mine so I could adjust the height without tools.

Amazon.com: 10" Adjustable Trailer Drop Hitch Ball Mount 2" Receiver Towing 8 Positions: Automotive

There are several choices for the interchangeable balls. Here is mine, again on Amazon:

Amazon.com: Convert-A-Ball 902B Stainless Steel Shank with 3 Balls - 1": Automotive

RogerRamRod said:
Nice write up Zach. Much more info than I could provide. I actually need a rise hitch, my truck is mostly a commuter, it is lowered & I use it for occasional camping.
Click to expand...
ch
RogerRamRod,
Thanks. I spent 40 years in trucking, it's nice to be able to contribute to the forum as mostly I'm a consumer of info both here and at /6. If you need a rise hitch, get the one listed above and simply flip the stinger over so it points up instead of down. Total adjustment on these things is about 18" when you've fiddled with everything.

Zach
 
halfafish said:
Rod,
The adjustable stingers are widely available. Below is one on Amazon that has lots of vertical adjustment. Also, I swapped out the securement bolts for pins and keepers on mine so I could adjust the height without tools.

Amazon.com: 10" Adjustable Trailer Drop Hitch Ball Mount 2" Receiver Towing 8 Positions: Automotive

There are several choices for the interchangeable balls. Here is mine, again on Amazon:

Amazon.com: Convert-A-Ball 902B Stainless Steel Shank with 3 Balls - 1": Automotive


ch
RogerRamRod,
Thanks. I spent 40 years in trucking, it's nice to be able to contribute to the forum as mostly I'm a consumer of info both here and at /6. If you need a rise hitch, get the one listed above and simply flip the stinger over so it points up instead of down. Total adjustment on these things is about 18" when you've fiddled with everything.

Zach
Click to expand...
i was raised up in trucking , all ive ever done and like to think im pretty dern good at it!! but with that being said pulling cars with pick ups seems odd to me...
 
Other nice thing about my 2015 3500 is it has the factory exhaust brake. I came down the east side of Mount Eagle in Tennesee with the hauler in tow loaded with a loaded 04 caravan and everything else my brother owned. The 24' v-nose was packed floor to ceiling. The exhaust brake held me at 60MPH all the down and never touched the brake pedal.

image.jpeg
 
12 miles to dirt track, 1 hour to drag strip, all 2 lane 45 and 55 speed limits no real hills just a few turns. trailer is 2 axle no brakes at this time but wanting to add, weight 1000 lbs and 3000lbs is heaviest load ill pull. my truck is a 1980 D150 /6 od833 short bed no power anything and im not thinking its got heavy duty nuff rear suspension to even consider but might could if upgraded right maybe. got a RV i plan to use when hole family gose with me but not wanting to feed that big monstrosity every time i wanta go play, am i crazy thinking my lil pick up could handle it???
 
dirty white boy said:
12 miles to dirt track, 1 hour to drag strip, all 2 lane 45 and 55 speed limits no real hills just a few turns. trailer is 2 axle no brakes at this time but wanting to add, weight 1000 lbs and 3000lbs is heaviest load ill pull. my truck is a 1980 D150 /6 od833 short bed no power anything and im not thinking its got heavy duty nuff rear suspension to even consider but might could if upgraded right maybe. got a RV i plan to use when hole family gose with me but not wanting to feed that big monstrosity every time i wanta go play, am i crazy thinking my lil pick up could handle it???
Click to expand...

I had a 81 D150 with the slant and od833, I got passed flat towing a jeep cj one time up a mountain 2 lane by a semi pulling a trailer.
The slant will not have any power, when that truck passed me, I told my wife, I should un-hook the jeep, and tow the truck up the hill.
 
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