Hahaha, yea it's tough work on your back in the garage. Before doing any of these projects, even if you're experienced, do a lot of research. Service Manuals are the best, so you can see every part and the procedure. And don't forget Youtube, but you have to pick the right video. FABO is good help too.
Transmission install..
- Thread starter nodemon
- Start date
-
Not long after I bought this car, I searched for a manual and ended up finding an original matching set of 1972 service and body manuals. They were from a high school library and still have the check out cards attached..Kinda cool seeing the names and dates checked out back in the early / mid 70's..
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Have you tried turning the crank since you squeezed it together ?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,961
- Reaction score
- 13,257
I have not.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
What others are saying, - There can be an issue with the crank not having been drilled deep enuff on automatic trans crankshafts that the trans input shaft is too long and needs to be trimmed back a 1/4inch-ish.
This issue causes the trans to shove the crankshaft forward, and hard against the engine main thrust bearing when the trans is cinched up to the bell housing.
Because it's unknown if the engine was drilled, or the previously mated trans was trimmed, caution is recommended.
If the crank won't turn, there may be a reason.
Loosening the trans may ease the issue.
If the crank turns, forget about it .
If the trans is too long, installed and engine started, the engine main thrust bearing is wiped, and crank damage may/does occur.
Good luck .
I'll try to find the pilot bearing depths, but I'm on the wrong puter.
Not sure if this'll help, best I got right now.
Last edited:
Hopefully, you packed some high temp grease in the pilot bushing and also smeared some on the nose of the input shaft. If not, don't expect the pilot bushing to last very long. At all.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
You're sooo much better at this, just read an old post of yours on same . . lol
To be, or not to be. Was thinking here sometime back, isn't the bushing an oil lite bushing? Some say grease it, some say don't grease it, it will get into the clutch. Seems like it's always gone when ever I go in there again.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Depending on vehicle, pilots can be many materials.
It can be difficult to see in many instances, and it's kind of a rule to never put unlubed friction surfaces together, a small amount of light lubricant is wise unless known oilite .
That was yelled at me early in my career, read it, and practiced it for decades.
jmo
Last edited:
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,961
- Reaction score
- 13,257
Friend, IDK what yur getting at.
I'm just hanging out to see how this goes.
I mean when I posted the popcorn, it was Post 30 already...... so just about everything that could be said, had been. Wasn't anything left for me to say, so just left a timestamp.
IDK, did I use the popcorn emoji wrong?
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Not at all, it was humorous that just seconds before seeing that, I had been searching for that image I posted, and had read a previous post from you very near word for word what I had posted, I was considering referring to it, till I saw your popcorn, lol
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 25,961
- Reaction score
- 13,257
As regards the oilite bushings,
they are a loose conglomeration of molrcules with lots of spaces between the atoms to hold oil or grease. In usage, that grease/oil medium provides the film for lubrication and cooling, and the theory is that the pilot while spinning, never touches the bushing; so therefore, it can last many many miles.
But when the oil disappears, now it's metal on metal, and the bushing begins to wear. Which doesn't seem to make that big a deal, cuz I have pulled a few sloppy ones that had been running just fine.
Keep in mind that this bushing only has to work when the clutch pedal is depressed. The rest of the time, the input gear is running at crank speed.
I have, in the past, had good service from that black moly hi-temp grease, which seems to have a tenacious grip on the bushing.
I do not put extra moly in the cavity.
But this last time, I used the ball bearing type; a new one, repacked with moly by me, and that was in 1999. and yes, I left the oilite bushing in there.
they are a loose conglomeration of molrcules with lots of spaces between the atoms to hold oil or grease. In usage, that grease/oil medium provides the film for lubrication and cooling, and the theory is that the pilot while spinning, never touches the bushing; so therefore, it can last many many miles.
But when the oil disappears, now it's metal on metal, and the bushing begins to wear. Which doesn't seem to make that big a deal, cuz I have pulled a few sloppy ones that had been running just fine.
Keep in mind that this bushing only has to work when the clutch pedal is depressed. The rest of the time, the input gear is running at crank speed.
I have, in the past, had good service from that black moly hi-temp grease, which seems to have a tenacious grip on the bushing.
I do not put extra moly in the cavity.
But this last time, I used the ball bearing type; a new one, repacked with moly by me, and that was in 1999. and yes, I left the oilite bushing in there.
The main thing to check is make sure it’s a real Oilite bushing anytime you are installing one ,,,Non Magnetic .
That’s why it’s called Oilite ,,,,it basically takes a few drops of lube,,,like as has previously been stated .
Many of the new off shore models have been made from metal ( magnetic),,,they will last no time at all ,,,no matter how much you grease them .
Tommy
That’s why it’s called Oilite ,,,,it basically takes a few drops of lube,,,like as has previously been stated .
Many of the new off shore models have been made from metal ( magnetic),,,they will last no time at all ,,,no matter how much you grease them .
Tommy
I turned the crank and the yoke turns as well... All good..?
Late to the party as usual, sometimes it's just a matter of turning the transmission output shaft slightly to get the splines aligned, at least that has worked for me.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
I always do put a little grease in there, my pilots came from Brewer. Amazing side note, the '69 Hemi clone Road Runner that I have apart. When I pulled the trans and engine, the pilot shaft bearing was pushed forward into the void, and the trans 18 spline bearing retainer was the small one , the bellhousing was for the large bearing retainer! Previous owner said it drove fine. I haven't driven it yet, had a broken ladder bar mount, his wife cut off the funding, that's how I came into the picture. I will correct those two of many many issues. Hope to drive it next year.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Did it also have the small front bearing/case?
Yeah, I tried that and just couldn't get it to go... although, I didn't put a whole lot of *** behind it...but once it was close, just tightening the bolts pulled it in with no effort..
Yes. I got the large bearing retainer substitute from Dan Brewer, so that I don't have to use the reducer ring. Not sure that I understand why it didn't tear itself to failure. Just swapping out the bearing retainer seems the better way to go, though more expensive. Next time the trans is out of the Dart, I will do the dame thing and toss the reducer ring.
Nodemon, sounds like you are on your way!
Nodemon, sounds like you are on your way!
Last edited:
The service manual says grease pilot bushing, so I do it.
It's a beautiful sight topside, that's for sure..!
-
