Transmission shield or tunnel cover

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ok have to admit im learning here between what you guys have posted and other posts on the internet im a little shocked to find that the 727 is a ticking time bomb i always thought it was a strong trannie that could handle all you threw at it but there are so many horror stories of these transmission exploding more than any powerglide or turbo 400. Mine was rebuilt at a local transmission shop the basic heavy duty bands and rebuild kit and a reverse manual conversion kit in it now i find out the stock drums and sprag are week at high rpms now im having nightmares of this thing exploding and shoting scrap metal through my floor pan into my legs or worse. there was one article where the drum shot through the windshield thirty feet in the air..What a set back working so hard to race this thing now i just dont know. now i have to dump more money into a blanket or shield or both i found one nobody here mentioned its a twrcp metal shield anyone use it is it hard to install its a lot cheaper than the tsi carbon fiber one.
 
Remember when we talked after I priced the trans build and I said the difference between the cheap rebuild and the race rebuild is mostly the price of the billet clutch drum? That's what I was refering to. That billet drum lets you run more discs in the high gear clutch, the wider hemi kickdown band, and as a said affect will keep your feet and legs intact.

As far as the shield - I'd go with the CSR and beat the floor up. Like was said - too much work to the firewall and you open another can of worms...
 
moper said:
Remember when we talked after I priced the trans build and I said the difference between the cheap rebuild and the race rebuild is mostly the price of the billet clutch drum? That's what I was refering to. That billet drum lets you run more discs in the high gear clutch, the wider hemi kickdown band, and as a said affect will keep your feet and legs intact.

As far as the shield - I'd go with the CSR and beat the floor up. Like was said - too much work to the firewall and you open another can of worms...
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prefessor Dave check out twrcp transimission shields there made of metal and dont look to hard to install and are cheaper than the carbon fiber one and there sfi rated yes i remember our talk you got to remember im not warren buffet seems you have to be, to race a mopar it never ends with this thing maybe im over my head here, gonna piss people off dont mean to ,but here goes the front suspension torsion bar design sucks the 727 deal sucks give me a full frame gm front suspension and my m22 supercase 4speed and a old skool lakewood bell housing (bullet proof) why would someone want to spend more to fix bad designs to get the same end results. ok i feel better now, thank god im going back to work soon and wont be on here complaing so much, i realy do appreciate all the positive advice. im gonna put a shield on it, have no chioce i like my legs ,run it to it explodes then make it a street car .cant stress over this stupid car anymore lifes to short.
 
i would spend the extra 100 bucks and get the CSR (twrcp shield 155.00 and flex plate- you need both- 65.00) . The tunnel in that car is tight and the CSR fits well.

Safety in parts no mater what the cost should be the most important thing. Racing is not a cheap hobby. Plus your car can hurt you and others. Take it slow... write single on you windshield untill you get use to the car. Better for you and everyone.
 
I would and I do run a blanket. It does not make the trans run hotter. I have been drag racing over 25 years and everyone I know runs a blanket. The shields are a pain in the ***. You do not need a bell housing shield til you run in the 9's. You can also buy a billet drum for the trans that won't come apart. Where you are likely to have a drum explosion would be launching in 1st gear and breaking a ujoint, drivshaft or rearend, that in turn will make the sprag in the trans break and the drum in the trans will spin backwards 3 times the speed of the engine RPM and then the critical speed hits and the drum comes apart leaving parts everywhere. So make sure your ujoints, driveshaft and rearend are in great condition before you race.

73wheelstander.jpg
 
Duster Drag Car said:
prefessor Dave check out twrcp transimission shields there made of metal and dont look to hard to install and are cheaper than the carbon fiber one and there sfi rated yes i remember our talk you got to remember im not warren buffet seems you have to be, to race a mopar it never ends with this thing maybe im over my head here, gonna piss people off dont mean to ,but here goes the front suspension torsion bar design sucks the 727 deal sucks give me a full frame gm front suspension and my m22 supercase 4speed and a old skool lakewood bell housing (bullet proof) why would someone want to spend more to fix bad designs to get the same end results. ok i feel better now, thank god im going back to work soon and wont be on here complaing so much, i realy do appreciate all the positive advice. im gonna put a shield on it, have no chioce i like my legs ,run it to it explodes then make it a street car .cant stress over this stupid car anymore lifes to short.
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lol... I remeber Mr. Buffet. Remember who you're talking to...lol. You don;t have to be a millionaire, but you have to spend wisely. Your factory suspension and M22 are not going to run anywhere near what that Diuster can. So yeah, your choices mean you have to pay to play...lol.
 
moper said:
lol... I remeber Mr. Buffet. Remember who you're talking to...lol. You don;t have to be a millionaire, but you have to spend wisely. Your factory suspension and M22 are not going to run anywhere near what that Diuster can. So yeah, your choices mean you have to pay to play...lol.
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well the duster came from the factory with a slant 6 or a small block wasnt realy desiged for a big block i understand this, you need to modify it for a big block and racing applications. what i was tring to say is the chevelle came with everything from a 6 to a 454 with only only motor mount locaton differences easy cheap fix and it drives like a dream with a big block in the nose of car and im sure the b body mopars handle the weight of the big block to i had a 71 road runner 440 4 speed in high school dont remember it being nose heavy even though only drove it 2 weeks and put a rod through the side of the block doing a first to secound holesot in front of the school my fault must of over rev it, factory stuff cant handle more than 4500 to 5000 in my book. yes the duster should be faster ,but putting a big block chevy of equal horspower and a turbo 400 with a basic beef up into the chevelle would have been cheaper easier and way less stressfull project and much safer, turbo 400s are not know as the exploding transmission , hence my comment on going through all this bs to get the same results the only benifit to the duster is its lighter that is why i went with it i like things simple my fomula is the old horsepower to weight ratio, once again im not bashing mopars, its my fault i should have done more research to see what i was getting into. ive gone to far to give up now think im gonna buy the twrcp metal shield to satisfy the safty tech and im going to reinforce the factory floor and tunnel on the drivers side for my own safty. from what i understanding the problem is the factory drum is heavy and should be replaced with a billet one ? its not like everyone explodes i always do my burnouts in 2nd gear then shift out to 3rd i did this not even knowing 1st gear burnouts damage the tranny i do this to not over rev the engine. have also read of guys running 727s with factory drums with no problems for years i will take safty precautions for my safty and the safty of others and i will also open up my wallet bend over and spread for the mopar gods once again lol thats my bla bla bla for the day.
 
I have only seen 1 drum explosion in the 25 plus years racing so it is not very common but it does happen. The shield or blanket is there to keep parts out of the cab, and FYI it needs to be recerted every 3 year, same with the blanket. If you have a stock floor pan then good luck with the shield.
 
I have a CSR Shield in my Demon, never had to beat up my floor. But anytime the trans is out the motor came out at same time. Made life easy. No plans for the track, but I'm optimistic that I'm close to 600HP and don't really want to lose my feet if it comes apart. Dyno time to come soon. For those of you in the know, can braided fuel line be run on the inside of the frame rail and pass tech, or is it a fail unless hard lined? Thanks.
 
duster drag car: you don't have to bend over to the mopar gods once again as every hotrod of a certain et has to have a tranmission shield also and the rest of the parts you were short on to pass tech. it's not that it's a mopar it's that you want to drag race. also as you get to wanting to go faster and faster the tech guys will require you to have even more safty stuff no matter what make hotrod you have.
another thing, if you have two hotrods that are the exact same hp, chassis, etc. except that one weighs less that one will be faster. just like you mentioned weight to hp.
 
Rodzilla said:
I have a CSR Shield in my Demon, never had to beat up my floor. But anytime the trans is out the motor came out at same time. Made life easy. No plans for the track, but I'm optimistic that I'm close to 600HP and don't really want to lose my feet if it comes apart. Dyno time to come soon. For those of you in the know, can braided fuel line be run on the inside of the frame rail and pass tech, or is it a fail unless hard lined? Thanks.
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i have braided half inchfuel line it was on the inside of frame rail from the previous owner i moved it to the outside of the frame rail thats what the tech guy wanted he didnt say to incase it in metal pipe,ill find out in april when i go to test and tune.
 
wheelsup73 said:
I have only seen 1 drum explosion in the 25 plus years racing so it is not very common but it does happen. The shield or blanket is there to keep parts out of the cab, and FYI it needs to be recerted every 3 year, same with the blanket. If you have a stock floor pan then good luck with the shield.
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thanks im gonna get a rci blanket found one online for a good price crawled under car today looks like it might be a bit of a hassle around the cooler lines and shifter linkage but it seems a lot easier to install than a metal shield or the carbon fiber shield , not much clearance to work with I think the blanket is my best chioce.
 
bOb shingler said:
duster drag car: you don't have to bend over to the mopar gods once again as every hotrod of a certain et has to have a tranmission shield also and the rest of the parts you were short on to pass tech. it's not that it's a mopar it's that you want to drag race. also as you get to wanting to go faster and faster the tech guys will require you to have even more safty stuff no matter what make hotrod you have.
another thing, if you have two hotrods that are the exact same hp, chassis, etc. except that one weighs less that one will be faster. just like you mentioned weight to hp.
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thanks bob i agree i just get a little aggravated when a new issue pops up im gonna get a blanket and install a new steering gear run the front tires i have and hopfully pass tech and start to dial this bomb in , i know racing isnt cheap and the faster you go the more it will cost you ,im sure after a few good passes it will all be worth it.
 
Just to correct the tech requirments for nhra brackets , cars slower than 11.50 dont need a roll bar ,stock seat belts or outdated16.1 belts o/k. Helmet snell 2005 or newer . (metal valve stems on tubeless tires 11.99 front & rear tubeless only) , 2in =1/4in steel drive line loop within 6in of front ujoint --- 11.49 to 10.00 roll bar with left side bar o/k with stock steel firewall & floor . 16.1 belts less than 2 years old .a sfi jacket 3,2a-1 needed. ---stock seat needs headrest & braced to roll bar. After market seat needs to be bolted to roll bar . Needs padding any where helmet could make contact. Make sure seat belts mounted as per manufacture instructed . ---10.99 to 10.00 needs sfi 18.1 harmonic balancer & trans shield sfi 4.1 rigid sheild good for 5 years ,but blanket sheild good for only 2 year. Locking trans dipstick. 9.99 requires much more but trans & flexplate & flexplate sheild not needed untill 9.99
 
Add info, if battery is not in the stock location you will need a master cutoff switch at rear of car , marked for off . After market shifter will need reverse lock out & neutral swich if you need any more info , i am a sfi tech inspector . Also have a duster race car
 
SONNEY1090 said:
Add info, if battery is not in the stock location you will need a master cutoff switch at rear of car , marked for off . After market shifter will need reverse lock out & neutral swich if you need any more info , i am a sfi tech inspector . Also have a duster race car
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thanks car has all that ,this car has been a race car for a long time it just needed some updates as you know the rules get tougher each year and with my new motor, car also has more hp than it did with the old 383 it has 2 batteries in the trunk very securly mounted no problem there and has master cut off switch and i connected a neutral safty switch and has a fully padded 8 point cage updated belts and window net i have sfi jacket nitrous is securly mounted and has a blow down tube and i boxed in the plastic fuel cell ,once i install the blanket it should pass tech and be good to 10.00 et if it will run that fast.it also has metal valve stems is there anything else you can think of.
 
They have been dinging racers on the little things , the way the seat belts mount , cowl vents not blocked off , brake pedle pads ,rear fire wall not sealed outsides to 1/4 panels , ground wire on plastic fuel cells , holes in firewall ,line lock not install down stream off proportioning valve
 
The 727/904 is a good trans ,the problem is not at high speed but in 1st gear the rear overrunning clutch could be damaged from the shock of the burn out or even broken rear end , dont ever do a burnout in 1st gear , use 3 gear . I do first dry hop in second gear to make sure tires or dry th400 has the same probem . Get the csr sheild or a blanket , metal sheilds have problems with shift linkage . Blankets tend to hang low under trans
 
SONNEY1090 said:
The 727/904 is a good trans ,the problem is not at high speed but in 1st gear the rear overrunning clutch could be damaged from the shock of the burn out or even broken rear end , dont ever do a burnout in 1st gear , use 3 gear . I do first dry hop in second gear to make sure tires or dry th400 has the same probem . Get the csr sheild or a blanket , metal sheilds have problems with shift linkage . Blankets tend to hang low under trans
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Have yet to see a 904 explode like a 727..drum size is alot smaller..

You can start your burn out in 1st gear...and shift into 2nd...but do not come out of the water in 1st gear...

Dry hops went out with Disco music back in the 80s...

From Turbo Action instructions for cheetah manual valve bodies....


Chrysler/Amer. Mtrs. “727”, “904”, “998” & “999” Transmissions
All water burnouts should be started in second gear and shift to third if necessary. If you should
start burnout in first, shift immediately to second before tires come out of water. No matter whether
it be second or third gear you are in as you come out of the water, you should start to deaccelerate
engine or do a power burnout directly to the staging line being sure tires never grab dry pavement.
The power burnout provides the best E.T.’s if no dry burnouts are done. No matter if you have a
tranz brake or not, we suggest not doing dry burnouts!
 
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