Trick Flow 440 heads, The Real Deal?

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Old Man Mopar said:
Well, I'm impressed with his results on a 48 year old shortblock that was rated at 375 HP stock. No mention was made of the type and size of the camshaft though. Whatever it is, it is evidently still streetable. Bolt on a set of OOTB RPM or 440 Source heads and see if he can even get within 50 HP of that.
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I've done 550 HP @ 446 ci,Eddy RPM's, valve job only, small hydraulic roller, 10-1 comp. And this was without dropping oil or cold water, fresh air, open exhaust dyno "aids".

I just think that a full CNC 240 CC port with a big valve and modern chamber should go well over 600 HP and maybe 650 hp + easily is all. But that ain't gonna happen 'till somebody relocates the valves. J.Rob
 
Interested (for my own use info) about your cam as I am currently considering using a hydraulic roller. What brand and specs? Characteristics? How do you like that one?
 
Bigdummy said:
Got this off Facebook.Larry Max wedged some trick flowsView attachment 1714983821
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These are my heads that Larry Smith did.
I actually sent him a 337 intake to polish and match the ports on the TF heads to the intake size.
They aren't a full MW port window, they are between a standard port and a MW.
I did not want to raise my torque peak any higher, but wanted enough to feed a 526 ci stroker.
My engine is a street build, 10.1 CR.
I'm using this Howards solid cam.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-720152-08/overview/

It may be a mismatch, the heads and intake may warrant more cam, I picked it out before I found out how much flow Larry got out of the heads.

I wanted the motor to be done by 6000 rpm, I was using the 337 to keep everything under the hood.

My intention was to build a torquey engine more than a high rpm engine.This motor pulls like a 2 stroke dirt bike.Oops.
I have a 4 speed, my shift light is set at 6500. By the time I get the clutch in it's already jumped to 68-6900.

While it pulls really hard up top, I'm betting it would even be stronger with more cam.

BTW Larry Smith's work is nothing short of art. His prices are very reasonable as well. Highly recommend him.
The TF heads are really nice OOTB, they flow about what Indy EZs do, and when you call for support, you don't have to deal with attitude.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
Not that I am recommending doing this but I was in a discussion elsewhere where it was suggested that bolting the Trick Flows on a mild street engine would result in soft performance except in the upper RPM ranges due to too large of port sizes. I completely disagree (we are not dealing with Max Wedge ports here). I am asking MRL, IQ52 and Andy F among others to comment on what to expect bolting the PP 240's on a 383 and a 440 that had stock shortblocks (in good condition, 10.25-1) along with headers, a Performer RPM intake, a 284 / 484 hyd flat tappet cam 750-800 carb and good ignition. Wouldn't the performance still be greatly enhances at all engine speeds? I don't think these heads would be overkill.....do you? Naturally the critics are promoting reworked stock heads, possibly bowl ported and lowering the C.R. to 9.25-1 for pump gas. Let's hear the experts throw in on the discussion. Thanks, JL
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WOT throttle performance will increase significantly but I don't know how the engine would respond at part throttle or off idle. I assume it would be better but perhaps not. The port size in the TF heads is not much larger than an OEM head. The bowl is bigger and the valve is larger so maybe there is small loss of velocity. If you are willing to put some cam in the engine and twist the RPM up higher then the TF heads will really make a lot of power. I've done a bunch of builds over 700 hp now with fairly standard off the shelf parts. Pump gas, 10.5 compression, 4150 carb, 180 degree water temp, etc. Just takes a decent sized solid roller cam and the willingness to spin it to 7000 rpm.
 
AndyF said:
I'm working on a new design for the intake gaskets. I'm going to use a valley plate with some little "bat wings" that I built to seal the intake to the valley. The bat wings have a bend at the bottom that gives me a place to make a nice seal with some RTV. I'm thinking this will seal up the motor really well and allow me to easily swap intake manifolds on the dyno.

View attachment 1714936756

View attachment 1714936757
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here is a pic of my 440 with the trick flow valley pan and 240 heads,is this space to big???

31706473_10213147434899202_8065970134033891328_n.jpg


31775169_10213147435259211_5739948389211045888_n.jpg
 
no batwing to seal the gasket to the plate? Oh I forgot you added that plate underneath
 
Not picking a fight I’m just showing my idea to solve the issue. Just throwing more ideas out there. My plate has a year of street driving and track time. Not a single drip or leak.
 
younggun2.0 said:
Not picking a fight I’m just showing my idea to solve the issue. Just throwing more ideas out there. My plate has a year of street driving and track time. Not a single drip or leak.
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I know your not picking a fight,I do have the bat wings also to use for this,just wondering why these are so far off
 
is there a different plate for b and rb-engine?

I´d ask TF about it....no way i´d install this one.

Michael
 
younggun2.0 said:
Not picking a fight I’m just showing my idea to solve the issue. Just throwing more ideas out there. My plate has a year of street driving and track time. Not a single drip or leak.
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To each his own. I like the thin steel or alum. sheet valley plate for the victor style heads, that turn up beside the head at a 90* . I have a made a large site glass to run in mine. I`ve had it off two or three times w/ no trouble sealing it. Never leaked, and is neat watching the lifters and pushrods work. I`d like to have a set of valve covers like the ones Andy uses on the dyno too, they`re about the only covers I would break down and buy ,(providing, I could afford them!) !
 
famous bob said:
To each his own. I like the thin steel or alum. sheet valley plate for the victor style heads, that turn up beside the head at a 90* . I have a made a large site glass to run in mine. I`ve had it off two or three times w/ no trouble sealing it. Never leaked, and is neat watching the lifters and pushrods work. I`d like to have a set of valve covers like the ones Andy uses on the dyno too, they`re about the only covers I would break down and buy ,(providing, I could afford them!) !
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The victor style bolts to the heads! That makes it way easier. Standard style heads have nothing like that. That is why my plate is so thick. I made it rigid to help hold a seal. And I have over 1/4” of sealing surface.
 
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