Trick Flow 440 heads, The Real Deal?

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younggun2.0 said:
is that a 400 or 440 block? pushing the limits of the factory block isn't it? could you go into details about how you keep the bottom end together on a build such as that?
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Since when is 600 "pushing it" for a BBM? That's what most of our SBM are pushing these days and almost all are with factory blocks. We have so many 600-800HP BBM out there and as long as the tune is good, there should be no issues. Our truck puller 470 is done with its 3rd season, 2 seasons at 730+hp and 8000rpm pulls and this season at 795+hp and 8500rpm pulls. Its still good to go, but the tune is checked and adjusted every run to ensure no detonation. Im not worried one bit.
 
Yeah, if you think 600 HP is pushin it for a big chrysler, you need to talk to womanator.
 
MRL Performance said:
Since when is 600 "pushing it" for a BBM? That's what most of our SBM are pushing these days and almost all are with factory blocks. We have so many 600-800HP BBM out there and as long as the tune is good, there should be no issues. Our truck puller 470 is done with its 3rd season, 2 seasons at 730+hp and 8000rpm pulls and this season at 795+hp and 8500rpm pulls. Its still good to go, but the tune is checked and adjusted every run to ensure no detonation. Im not worried one bit.
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I was asking because you are the pro. I had read that 600 hp was starting to stress the factory block. I'm more curious about main caps. Girdles, etc. no insult intended. Only asking to learn
 
No insult taken. Yes blocks are stressed at that level, but the BBM is a good design and can take it. Its not so much the "power" as it is the piston speed, rod angle and the tune. Girdles do help, Main studs, 4 bolt main caps do as well. Those Race Hemis could make a Lot of power and the basic design is the same, deep shirt, tall deck, rather high cam location. Is there something better than a factory block? Yup, but they are few and far between these days.
 
Confusion reigns all across the internet on the flows from these cylinder heads. There are so many different ways to set a cylinder head up on the flowbench that I've taken the time to flow the head many different ways. I tested one port 5 different ways. (1) no radius plate, (2) 1/4" clay roll, (3) 1/2" clay roll, (4) radius plate #1, (5) radius plate #2. Radius plates can come in different thicknesses, radii, and angles of approach. (4) & (5) are just two of the more that twenty radius plates we have.

Lift............(1)......(2)......(3)......(4)......(5)

.100..........74.......75.................75.......75
.200.........151.....153...............153......151
.300.........206.....225...............225......219
.400.........229.....274...............279......272
.500.........236.....291...............317......320
.600.........239.....295...............323......338
.700.........239.....284.....312.....315......333

On my bench, every intake port I tested would stall between .600" and .700" lift.

I have revised the way I open the exhaust valve and here are the new results.

Lift..........no pipe........2" X 4" long pipe bell mouthed on the end and angled slightly up.

.100...........52...............53
.200..........119.............133
.300..........161.............185
.400..........192.............227
.500..........211.............251
.600..........223.............267
.700..........230.............273

I hope this clears up some confusion. I've messed with this enough for now and I still have to flow a service prepped Victor head before I can go home tonight.
 
Here's a can of worms:

Which testing method best simulates the real-world conditions of a complete and running BBM in the engine bay of a car?
 
451Cuda said:
Here's a can of worms:

Which testing method best simulates the real-world conditions of a complete and running BBM in the engine bay of a car?
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Dragstrip MPH, with accurate info such as weight of car, ect. That's JMHO
 
451Cuda said:
Here's a can of worms:

Which testing method best simulates the real-world conditions of a complete and running BBM in the engine bay of a car?
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Answer: NONE!

An engine's air consumption and flow are never in a steady state. It is a series of pulses and waves. J.Rob
 
I also say, an honest test with before and after results as to see the gain achieved.
 
This is why I use the same intake port plate every time. The Clay Roll thing is just impossible to recreated the same way every time. Mine are made out of aluminum and are 1" thick with a radius. I have 2 for SBM and 4 for BBM.
 
MRL Performance said:
This is why I use the same intake port plate every time. The Clay Roll thing is just impossible to recreated the same way every time. Mine are made out of aluminum and are 1" thick with a radius. I have 2 for SBM and 4 for BBM.
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Mike,

do you have OOTB eddy flow #'s that you used the same plates on with the Trick Flows?

That would be an apples to apples comparison.

I am trying to talk my dad into getting a set of the trick flows. his car runs 10.70's with the box stock eddy's.
 
Which of the Trick Flow heads would you order, valve spring wise, if you were going to use the
Lunati Voodoo solid roller cam 243/249 @ .050" and 1.5 rockers?
 
Old Man Mopar said:
Which of the Trick Flow heads would you order, valve spring wise, if you were going to use the
Lunati Voodoo solid roller cam 243/249 @ .050" and 1.5 rockers?
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Of the three spring choices, these,

TFS-6161T784-C00
 
IQ52 said:
Of the three spring choices, these,

TFS-6161T784-C00
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Thank you! This is a street motor; are the titanium retainers ok for street duty?

This is also the strongest of the spring packages they offer. All of them are rated for more
lift than my camshaft has. Is the fact that the cam is a roller what requires these springs?
 
Old Man Mopar said:
Thank you! This is a street motor; are the titanium retainers ok for street duty?

This is also the strongest of the spring packages they offer. All of them are rated for more
lift than my camshaft has. Is the fact that the cam is a roller what requires these springs?
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Yes, it is because of the opening and closing speed of the ramps. The question being, which of the Trick Flow heads was set up best for your cam, that head is. If I was setting the head up for your cam I would not choose those springs......they are the best choice of the three.

I would probably use the Comp Cam 938 spring, set up 200# @ 1.900" installed height, 490# @ 1.300", w/ coil bind @ 1.225, and use a tool steel retainer. Yes, the titanium is okay for the street.
 
IQ52 said:
I would probably use the Comp Cam 938 spring, set up 200# @ 1.900" installed height, 490# @ 1.300", w/ coil bind @ 1.225, and use a tool steel retainer.
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Good information and advice that I will heed.

One last question. What about using Beehive springs with this cam?
 
Just maybe the Comp Cams 26055 beehive spring might work. They are recommended for the Chevy small block solid roller cams in that lift and duration.
 
Thanks again. The reduced loads and harmonics as well as the vastly reduced retainer weight should be a good thing.
 
Revision to the latest Trick Flow heads to keep oil from leaking out of the lifter/cam valley by the head gasket.
 

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Yep Trick Flow fixed it on the new castings when they got called on their funky holes.
 
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