Out of something with an auto trans, and into something with an auto trans? Could there be a bushing in the pilot hole in the back of trans that's in the way? On my 74 225 on the stand I know there's one in the back of my trans that I gotta take out after it's free of the stand before it gets dropped in. They aren't all in the counter bore beyond the pilot hole. Some are directly in that spot.
Trouble getting a slant six in the car
- Thread starter SpriceyStuff
- Start date
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My leveler is sticking a bolt thru the engine chain to set the angle of the engine/trans. Yes I have to maybe change to to get it just right! Page 41 in the Redneck engine changing manual.
I've probably changed engine trans combo's a hundred times in my life. Up until I was in my 50's I always used a set of tri-pods with a block and tackle my Pap and uncles used for semi work. A screw driver in the right chain link was all I ever needed to set the angle , get it wrong? move it to another link. This isn't rocket science it's a pretty easy procedure ESPECIALLY when you take advice from someone with more experience trying to help you .TRUST ME (and others) bolting everything together out on the ground and then installing as an assembly is the way to go.
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
Alright I’ll give it a shot. Don’t suppose I have anything to lose at this point. Someone else on here has me wondering if I’m going to have issues getting my 77 motor paired to my 74 trans. Is this a problem or do I need to put the other trans (the one that came with the motor) in there?
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Do you have the motor mount brackets on correctly?
Right and left and up correct?
There is an Ad on epay with the passenger mount upside down.
Right and left and up correct?
There is an Ad on epay with the passenger mount upside down.
Does this mean you don't want the leveler I'm offering?
mcodecuda
Senior Member
I’m still confused on what you referring to when you say that “the block was setting on top of the bell housing”. Are we dealing with a manual or automatic transmission?
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
Auto. The end of the block that’s supposed to bolt to the bell housing was sitting on top of the bell housing
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
No it doesn’t. Just working with what I got for now. I really want to be able to drive this thing to the annual show in a couple weeks
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
Guys is there a truck to getting the shift linkage off the trans or am I just retarded? I’ve never had to pull a transmission before so forgive my ignorance
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
Guys I’ve been stuck on this shift linkage for an hour now. Seriously how do you get these off?? I’ve been trying and trying and nothing works. I’m about to just cut the linkage and call it a day
I use a screwdriver. LOL I can have the engine and transmission out of and back in Vixen sittin idling in the shop in under two hours with hand tools. Now that's with Kitty helping to make sure I don't snag anything on the firewall comin out or goin back in, but I've done it......more then twice. ....and I'm old and wore out.My leveler is sticking a bolt thru the engine chain to set the angle of the engine/trans. Yes I have to maybe change to to get it just right! Page 41 in the Redneck engine changing manual.
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
I finally got it out… putting it on the engine and almost ready to put it back in
Hell yeah! that's what you get for not givin up! Way to go!
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
Thanks man! I hit another little roadblock trying to get the tranny tail shaft down into the tunnel. I don’t need more slack on the lift chain do I?
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
You need to shorten the chain on the hoist. Then you need to put a big screwdriver in one of the links in the chain on the engine that will hold it at a greater angle with the tail shaft point more down. That will help stab it in. SLOW and steady. This isn't sprint. It's a marathon. Slow and easy is how to not break anything or break you. You also need someone as a "spotter" to help make sure the tail shaft doesn't snag anything on the way in. Once you get it into the engine bay, use your floor jack under the tail shaft to get the angle more correct as you go in.
Dang skippy. Good job!
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
I’m having trouble with that screwdriver bit. I’m trying to use a screwdriver in the chain like you said but I’m clearly not doing it right cause it’s not changing anything. Can you give me more descriptive details on how to do it?
You need to get the engine with the tail shaft pointing down at a greater angle then slip the screwdriver in a link behind the engine hoist hook. That will hold the chain from trying to even itself up. But it looks like you got it back in, so no need for that now.
mcodecuda
Senior Member
Also pull your radiator out. I can’t believe that you even got the motor out without poking a hole in it. You also need to attach the front end of the chain closer to the front of the motor and more slack in the chain. You might also want to shorten up the chain from the hook to the cherry picker.
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SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
We’re getting there… inch by inch
UHhhhhya ya pull the radiator. They can be expensive. Where the hook of the picker catches the chain hooked to the engine determine the angle of the dangle of the trans.
Ever do this by yourself with a chain hoist hooked to the barn rafter, and roll the car out and in as you alone, lift the engine/trans out! Shade tree mechanics like to work in the shade.
Ever do this by yourself with a chain hoist hooked to the barn rafter, and roll the car out and in as you alone, lift the engine/trans out! Shade tree mechanics like to work in the shade.
SpriceyStuff
Well-Known Member
Struggling to get the engine back into the motor mounts now… engine hoist is in as far as it’ll go. Looking like I may have to rip the bumper off to squeeze another couple inches out of it
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