Troubleshooting my car! help make it run!

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just to play it safe, check voltage at coil at idle. should be 7-9 volts. definitely check that all grounds are solid. where did you run the electric choke wire to?
 
Next time you take it out, drive it until its warm and stumbling/stalling and then park it at home, or the mall, where ever. Leave it for 5 - 10 minutes and then start it up and drive it again. If it runs fine for the rest of the day then your carb is freezing up on you.

When you shut it off and let it sit, the engine heat thaws the carb and the heat will remain in the carb enough to keep it freezing again until it drops to ambient temperature.

Happens to me all the time, especailly with a magnum headed 360 cause they have blocked off heat risers. I have it happened with heat rizers and headers too.

In the hot summer it usually isn't a problem but during milder days it can be a pain.
 
Wally426ci said:
What are the symptoms of a fuel pump going bad? im reaching here, My uncle said he'd help me out next weekend when i go down to pull my cousins engine. But, it would feel good to figure this out myself
Click to expand...

If the fuel pump is going bad then the engine will run at idle fine but will have NO power under load.
 
So, i pulled the distirbutor last night (a new MP distributor a year ago) and noticed that the reluctor was a little ugly compared to what i beleive it should be; not to mention the air gap looks to be slightly larger than the recomended .008" gap. this could explain why its always been hard to start, and the scarred up reluctor could explain the miss that i cant find. I picked up a new pick up coil, cap & rotor and i have another distributor that has a reluctor in good condition with nice square edges.

I have a document that Chrysler put out on tuning the ignition system that i found on MyMopar.com, i tried posting it but the file is too large.

:chatting: I'll update everyone on what the outcome is this time. :working:
 
Ok, thought id humor myself with another response. I know i wont diagnose it, i just needed somewhere to start. So far doesnt seem that it was the pick-up coil, although now i have a random backfire (pop) when i let off..........
 
I've followed this thread in hopes that someone would prove my theory wrong.
Here goes... Either something went amis about the carb rebuild or you ran bad nasty fuel into it and fecked it up. A known good carb would be worth a try.
 
Glazed Spark Plugs?

Incorrect Gap?

Too cold of spark plug?

Have you pulled the plugs, they don't lie.
 
Have not been following lately. Did you ever change the pick-up coil in the distributor?? I know it was suggested. Do you have a ground strap to the firewall from the engine?? Heat increases resistance to the point that ignition components fail to operated correctly. Everything you say points to a heat soak problem. What gap is set on the pickup coil to the reluctor? Once again, if the pickup coil is weak, that gap becomes more critical. Oh yeah, change the pickup coil.
 
My Duster stalled on me about 8 times today, and I think it's similar to your problem. After idling a little while I accelerate from a stop and it bogs and dies. I then pull over and crank it for about 5 seconds while pumping the gas and it starts up again, then in a couple minutes does the same thing. I think it's the stupid gas, 'cause when I popped open the hood after getting fed up the carb was "steaming" and there was gas leaking out of it (FYI my floats aren't stuck or out of adjustment, I just rebuilt the carb). I can't wait to put that ThermoQuad on there, that should help a lot.

What kind of carb are you running? If it's a Carter you could try a heat insulator like 340sFastback recommended.
 
thanks guys. i'll update later this week. if its wiring, it should turn up when i put my new harness on there. otherwise we will see........
 
All better!! it was my engine wiring harness. I must have lost voltage somewhere, slapped in a repo harness and its all good! Thanks for everyones help!
 
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