True HEI distributor conversion thoughts

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prorac1

prorac1

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65K HEI IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR for CHRYSLER DODGE PLYMOUTH MOPAR 273 318 340 360 | eBay

Other than the fact it's obviously made of chinesium, and that it looks like a GM distributor. Thoughts.

It's for a stock 318 in a 1963 valiant with a 1965 firewall.

Will it clear the firewall in an A body?

I like the fact that it eliminates the ignition box, seperate cool and wire, ballast resistor, and cleans up the wiring.

I takes the HEI module adaptation one step further.

I did a search, but kept coming up with add on module threads. Maybe I'm search deficient. Lol

Thanks for your thoughts. Eric L
 
Don't know if it'll clear, but I'm sure you could figure out a way to hide the stock Mopar stuff in the car.
And it wouldn't look so gm!
 
Prorac1,

I have that HEI in my 73 Dart Schwinger. Works as described and for the $$$ its a good value. Mine sets right by the wiper motor but does fit. I had to clock it some when installing one plug wire from each side, after they are in you are home free to rotate it and adj timing. I have a some shots of my engine in the Show off your Small Block thread. I added some MSD Super Conductor plug wires and the throttle is very snappy so to speak. Would I like a MSD programmable dizzy, yes but some $$$ concessions were taken with the dizzy and the big $$$ is in the long block for now, along with the FiTech.

FYI,
Marion
 
65 Dartman said:
Here's another option to use with your original Mopar electronic distributor - Mopar HEI Conversion
Click to expand...

I like that idea also, since we already have a mopar electronic distributor.

I think that's all the original skip white distributors were.

I think the hard part would be finding a cheap e core coil with the proper (low) resistance
 
You can use a Ford ecoil...cheap and effective. Better than that Chinese dizzy... you get what you pay for.
 
I have the big cap GM HEI version in the 351M in my 75 F250. Been in it for about three years now. Hasn't missed a beat. Comes with about 20* mechanical advance. I limited mine to 15* by drilling a small hole in the breaker plate and installing a screw to stop the advance plate. I have it set on 20* initial and 35* total. So far it has run very well. I have zero complaints.

All these type are the same, whether they are Skip White, ProComp.......whatever. Although I have read about some issues, I drive mine everyday and have zero complaints.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I have the big cap GM HEI version in the 351M in my 75 F250. Been in it for about three years now. Hasn't missed a beat. Comes with about 20* mechanical advance. I limited mine to 15* by drilling a small hole in the breaker plate and installing a screw to stop the advance plate. I have it set on 20* initial and 35* total. So far it has run very well. I have zero complaints.

All these type are the same, whether they are Skip White, ProComp.......whatever. Although I have read about some issues, I drive mine everyday and have zero complaints.
Click to expand...

Thanks Rusty.

Do you think the HEI would clear a 65 flat firewall? I've read it's 5.5"

Cosgig was kind enough to measure his 66 for me today and he said he had 2.5 inches above his stick distributor, and 1" to the firewall.

Mathematically it should fit, but I'm planing on measuring when we drop the engine in next month and reporting back.
 
I am not sure. I would hate to tell you yes and it does not. You can run the other style that has the external coil. It is much smaller. I have one for the RobKat motor, because with the serpentine belt setup, there is a minimum of room in the front.

Though technically the other style is not an "HEI". There is only one true style and that is the GM style. Although people will argue that point. The HUGE advantage to running the big cap HEI is that you can find parts at WalMart. Everybody has them. So if you burn up a module on a Sunday takin a nice drive, you can find parts.
 
All,

I did change out the Vac Adv to the one listed below. I don't run ported vac to my dizzy and use straight vac to help keep the engine cooler by supplying timing at idle. It's non adj but fits into the range of operation that I needed based on this tech article attached. If I remember the mech adv on the Ship White is 20 total, so if I recall I'm now at 54 total timing with everything all in around 30. I have a mech adv spring kit to use this spring if necessary to fine tune the new engine but with 10.2-1 compression the curve is probably safe as is. I run 93 Sunoco and no light load pinging with the new vac can.

BTW my HEI is from Skip White.

http://outintheshop.com/faq/Vac Adv Spec.pdf

Duralast Vacuum Advance-Distributor DV1843 - Read Reviews on Duralast #DV1843

FYI,
Marion
 
Examples posted thus far are different vehicles. I'm pretty sure your 63 model has a pair of torsion rods across the firewall that these others don't have. So what barely fits second generation A-body might not fit at all in yours. Maybe someone with a similar early A-body will chime in. Good luck
 
Frankly I don't like "big cap" HEI, mostly because it's harder to troubleshoot. What happens when you want to check spark? How many questions are on here turn out to be a "poor spark" problem, either low supply voltage or a bad coil or????

I've SEEN (original GM) HEI with bad coils, various carbon cap tracking or rotor punch through and NOT ALL of these were incredibly obvious!!!

There are several ignition systems you can trigger with a Mopar magnetic distributor, and there are a few breakerless aftermarket distributors. The "ready to run" Skip White small cap ones seem to be OK, a number of guys run them

THEY ARE NOT HEI which to me means GM HEI. They are a 'down under' I guess Holden? module, and again, seem to be "OK" in their own right
 
I once saw that big *** BATT' wire chaffed to shorted to the intake. Was a chevy pickup with a Autozone engine installed. Fried the wiring harness all the way to melting the fuse box, and killed alternator/regulator. Ironically, the owner who created this mess was a certified electrician too.
Toyota placed their coil on the distributer cap for all of 1 year ( 1992 I think ). If my memory serves, Heat related coil failures.
 
RedFish said:
Examples posted thus far are different vehicles. I'm pretty sure your 63 model has a pair of torsion rods across the firewall that these others don't have. So what barely fits second generation A-body might not fit at all in yours. Maybe someone with a similar early A-body will chime in. Good luck
Click to expand...

Currently I've gotten some measurements from some members and we will be dropping the engine into the car in a couple of weeks.

Than we will see exactly how much room there is diameter and height wise.

I will report back with findings.

Thanks. Eric L
 
I have the design2drive HEI mount on my 87 Ramcharger, a Napa module and pertronix epoxy filled coil for about 30,000 miles now with ZERO troubles.
 
mario03srt said:
Prorac1,

I have that HEI in my 73 Dart Schwinger. Works as described and for the $$$ its a good value. Mine sets right by the wiper motor but does fit. I had to clock it some when installing one plug wire from each side, after they are in you are home free to rotate it and adj timing. I have a some shots of my engine in the Show off your Small Block thread. I added some MSD Super Conductor plug wires and the throttle is very snappy so to speak. Would I like a MSD programmable dizzy, yes but some $$$ concessions were taken with the dizzy and the big $$$ is in the long block for now, along with the FiTech.

FYI,
Marion
Click to expand...
Good morning. I was wondering if you could tell me exactly how you wired the power wire to the distributor. Maybe a pic or 2. I have the same set up but but can’t find a lot of info on wiring. Everyone says just take the two wires off of ballast resistor and put them together the pigtail to distributor with tach. Problem is, the previous owner had wired in a Gm module and I’m not sure he bypassed ballast resistor. Lots of wire but not sure how they go. Appreciate any help with this. I have a 72 dart swinger with 360.
Thanks
 
simman900 said:
Good morning. I was wondering if you could tell me exactly how you wired the power wire to the distributor. Maybe a pic or 2. I have the same set up but but can’t find a lot of info on wiring. Everyone says just take the two wires off of ballast resistor and put them together the pigtail to distributor with tach. Problem is, the previous owner had wired in a Gm module and I’m not sure he bypassed ballast resistor. Lots of wire but not sure how they go. Appreciate any help with this. I have a 72 dart swinger with 360.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Hi,
I just logged on and saw your question. I am running a FiTech fuel inj system and have stripped out all of the stock ignition harness and components. I have a wire from that to the red on the dizzy and a tach wire to the other outlet on the HEI. Sorry that I could not help you out.

Marion
 
It's easy to determine if the ballast was bypassed........it's a big white ceramic resistor mounted right on the firewall. Or just hook up the ignition to what is there and with the key "in run" measure the voltage to the new system. It must be wired to a load or the resistor will not drop the voltage. With the thing removed/ bypassed, you should get full batt voltlage to the ignition with key "in run" and with key twisted "to start" voltage should be 'same as battery" and at least 10.5V
 
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