TRW ps pump question

-
4spdragtop- I have been putting this off since summer but I need to do the same rebuild/repair. I also need to replace the bearings while it is apart. Finding it tough to locate the right parts to use.

...maybe I missed it but can you share the part number and supplier you used for the needle bearings as well as the seal gaskets (o rings)?
 
I'll locate the kit#
4spdragtop- I have been putting this off since summer but I need to do the same rebuild/repair. I also need to replace the bearings while it is apart. Finding it tough to locate the right parts to use.

...maybe I missed it but can you share the part number and supplier you used for the needle bearings as well as the seal gaskets (o rings)?
 
I believe its Gates #350370. I'll chk for the box tomorrow to make sure. I used a local independent supplier up here.
Gates 350370: Power Steering Repair Kits | JEGS
4spdragtop- I have been putting this off since summer but I need to do the same rebuild/repair. I also need to replace the bearings while it is apart. Finding it tough to locate the right parts to use.

...maybe I missed it but can you share the part number and supplier you used for the needle bearings as well as the seal gaskets (o rings)?
 
Thanks 4spdragtop for this thread and all the great information! Everyone else as well. This topic is hard to find info on out there!

Update on my trw p/s pump rebuild: Ordered the gates rebuild kit you named and it came with the bearings. (ordered thru Rock Auto) Followed pretty much all the same steps and had he same challenges along the way but I have it all back together and reinstalled in the car. Waiting on a new p/s return line to test the pump.

The areas I had most difficulty with included the removal of the needle bearing housing, removal of the circlip, and the reinstallation of the spring loaded slippers.

-Needle bearing housing removal: After trying to push the needle bearing sleeve out from the back failed I ran out of options and ran a screwdriver down between the needle bearing housing and the pump body in order to break the side wall of the sleeve and slide it out. The process did scar the side wall of the housing but sanded the high spots and should not affect performance as the needle bearing sleeve covers it up. Anyone have a better way?

-Circlip removal: Was able to slightly spread the circlip by using snap ring pliers between the ends of the circlip while in the shaft groove. Took a while but finally managed to get another small screwdriver under the circlip and work the ends out of the grove. Then slide it off. Anyone have tips on a better way?

-Reinstallation of the spring loaded slippers: I saw the great tip on using a zip tie to hold the slippers and springs in place for reinstallation and thought to myself -cool trick, looks easy... but I had a difficult time actually getting them reinstalled because the side walls of the pump have large ports and as I slid the shaft/spring/slipper into the pump the zip tie slides off and the leading ends of the slippers would get caught in the ports. I finally managed to get it in by sliding a very narrow putty knife down between to compress the slipper/spring as it passed the port opening in the side wall. Again, this seemed less than the best way to do it and actually there is some doubt as to whether the springs stayed seated correctly during the process (tried looking down between with magnification and a flashlight and looks ok from what little I can see). Anyone have tips to aid in this process?
 
Last edited:
I rebuilt the TRW pump in my 1965 Dart 273. My 1965 Newport 383 also uses one, but differs. Both have 2 bolts on the rear, so strange that your reservoir only has 1 hole, yet the long channel of the TRW pump. For those that don't know, the TRW pump was used on early Mopars. The Federal (sometimes called "Chrysler") pump looks almost identical from the outside, but varies quite a bit. My 1969 Dart 225 had one. My 1965 Dart does too because I made the mistake of changing to the later aluminum water pump (to match new radiator) and it can't mount the TRW brackets and brackets exist only for the Federal and Saginaw pumps (I bought at Bouchillon). Since the Dart TRW pump was rebuilt and painted purty, I tried to use it on my Newport when I removed its pump for other things (camshaft swap, ...). But, I needed the pulley on the Newport's pump and turned out its TRW pump has a bigger shaft so nogo. That explains why the rebuild kit comes with 2 sizes of needle bearings and lip seals.

Smart idea using nylon ties to press in the rotor shoes. I wrapped a wire tight (as recommended) and it was a fuss. I spent much time searching for photos to determine which way the shoes should go. I should have taken more photos on disassembly. I don't recall much trouble removing the front seal and needle bearing. I forget if it had the C-clip, but likely did. If choosing any p.s. pump, people say the Saginaw is more efficient. Rich Ehringberg has an article on adjusting the relief pressure of the Saginaw for more steering feel. But, not all engines have brackets for every pump, some will interfere with the K-frame, pulleys might not align, and the hose fittings vary between TRW, Federal, and Saginaw pumps, and also between steering gear valve bodies.
 
-
Back
Top