Trying to figure out what this is it came out of my 64 barracuda 318 4 speed

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ryan1964

ryan1964

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If anyone can help me figure this out I would appreciate it

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Ok thank you the other thing that is wrong is it has a 9 1/8 clutch in it is there any way to put a 10 or 10 1/2 in it and how would I know if the gears 3.09 thank you agian
 
ryan1964 said:
Ok thank you the other thing that is wrong is it has a 9 1/8 clutch in it is there any way to put a 10 or 10 1/2 in it and how would I know if the gears 3.09 thank you agian
Click to expand...
They make 10" clutches with scalloped pressure plates. At least they used to. They wewe a A100 application. Brewer has preformsnce clutches for the small flywheel.
 
A 10" Clutch is available with special Scalloped Bolts that come with it...
You'll have to get your Flywheel Resurfaced to use the bigger Clutch!

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The original clutch disc at least for the Commando 273 was 9.5 inches, not 9 1/8. The replacement clutches for them got to be hard to get even by the early seventies; buy one from the local parts store and you got a six cylinder clutch. i went through a couple of them, got tired of the clutch slipping when speed shifting, finally discovered that Weber made a high performance clutch in the correct size, but you had to have a strong knee to hold the clutch in at a light. Plus it would bend the release levers after a couple of years, so after two of them I switched to a 340 10.5 inch clutch. (Brewer offers a clutch torque shaft for a 10.5 inch bellhousing in a 64-66 A body. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists)

Have no idea how well the Brewer small clutches work, but I would sure try one if I still had the small clutch/flywheel. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
 
ryan1964 said:
Ok thank you the other thing that is wrong is it has a 9 1/8 clutch in it is there any way to put a 10 or 10 1/2 in it and how would I know if the gears 3.09 thank you agian
Click to expand...
To check if it has 3.09 gears, put some tape on the input shaft and output flange and make a mark at 12:00 on each. Put it in first gear and rotate the input one revolution. The output should roll over a little over three times.

The other first gear ratios for an 833 are roughly 2.4x and 2.6x so it should be a no brainer for what you have.
 
By the way, the weld on one of the levers on my original 273 clutch torque shaft broke after many many miles. Can't remember if that happened before or after I put the Weber clutch in. Anyway, I bought a new torque shaft from the dealer and got a welding shop to weld reinforcements onto both of the levers. Never had any more problems with it. Of course, when I put the 340 clutch in, I switched to a 340 torque shaft and kinda rigged it up to fit. It was much stronger looking than the 273 shaft. Kept it in until I installed TTI headers, then switched to the Brewers torque shaft I mentioned above just because it fit with the headers a little better.
 
This is what the original Auburn 9.5” pressure plate looks like.

To switch to the 10.5” clutch, you need to change the flywheel, Z-bar, clutch fork and bellhousing, in addition to the obvious pressure plate and clutch disk.

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Oh cool That's different. I figured that's what I would have to do I'm just going to put the small clutch back in for now later I'm going to put a 340 and a newer a833 in it. Thank you That's really cool to see old stuff like that
 
The last A833 Mopar direct drive ever built was in maybe 1974, so
"Newer" is relative.
IMO the 3.09low, if that is what you have, for street use, is already the best core available, and
it can be relatively easily converted to a slip-yoke style.
 
That's good to know it's going to be rebuilt this week I'll post what gear is in it thank you I appreciate it
 
AJ/FormS said:
The last A833 Mopar direct drive ever built was in maybe 1974, so
"Newer" is relative.
IMO the 3.09low, if that is what you have, for street use, is already the best core available, and
it can be relatively easily converted to a slip-yoke style.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's what I've run in my 65 Barracuda most of its life. Ran a 2.66 low gear trans for a couple of years and with 3.23 gears it was just awful. Went back to the 3.09 low gearset as soon as I figured out it would fit in a later case with the slip yoke main shaft and extension housing.
 
the split from 3.09 to 1.92(.62) is a long compared to from
2.66 to 1.92(.72) But the pay-off is to be able to run at least one less rear gear size, on the hiway. and honestly in first gear, I don't even notice it anymore.

Typically it is said that the A833 runs best with 3.55s or better. That will get you 2.66 x 3.55=a starter of 9.44. Not bad, but 9.44/3.09= 3.05 rear gear. That's almost exactly half-way between 2.94s and 3.23s..
The problem tho, comes in Second Gear. After trying many many different Second Roadgears, my 367 likes about a 6.50 Second....... which
6.50/1.92, means I need to run a rear gear of 3.38 which is almost exactly half-way between 3.23 and 3.55.
I ran the 3.09 with 3.23s for a while, with the GVod, but for me 65=2040 was too low, and 3.55s at 65=2240 got better fuel-economy. So 3.55s was the default gear, for the GVod.
It really depended on which cam I was running.
But the Key player was the 3.09low.

to Ryan, IMO, you will never be sorry.
 
AJ/FormS said:
the split from 3.09 to 1.92(.62) is a long compared to from
2.66 to 1.92(.72) But the pay-off is to be able to run at least one less rear gear size, on the hiway. and honestly in first gear, I don't even notice it anymore.

Typically it is said that the A833 runs best with 3.55s or better. That will get you 2.66 x 3.55=a starter of 9.44. Not bad, but 9.44/3.09= 3.05 rear gear. That's almost exactly half-way between 2.94s and 3.23s..
The problem tho, comes in Second Gear. After trying many many different Second Roadgears, my 367 likes about a 6.50 Second....... which
6.50/1.92, means I need to run a rear gear of 3.38 which is almost exactly half-way between 3.23 and 3.55.
I ran the 3.09 with 3.23s for a while, with the GVod, but for me 65=2040 was too low, and 3.55s at 65=2240 got better fuel-economy. So 3.55s was the default gear, for the GVod.
It really depended on which cam I was running.
But the Key player was the 3.09low.

to Ryan, IMO, you will never be sorry.
Click to expand...
Thank you for
AJ/FormS said:
the split from 3.09 to 1.92(.62) is a long compared to from
2.66 to 1.92(.72) But the pay-off is to be able to run at least one less rear gear size, on the hiway. and honestly in first gear, I don't even notice it anymore.

Typically it is said that the A833 runs best with 3.55s or better. That will get you 2.66 x 3.55=a starter of 9.44. Not bad, but 9.44/3.09= 3.05 rear gear. That's almost exactly half-way between 2.94s and 3.23s..
The problem tho, comes in Second Gear. After trying many many different Second Roadgears, my 367 likes about a 6.50 Second....... which
6.50/1.92, means I need to run a rear gear of 3.38 which is almost exactly half-way between 3.23 and 3.55.
I ran the 3.09 with 3.23s for a while, with the GVod, but for me 65=2040 was too low, and 3.55s at 65=2240 got better fuel-economy. So 3.55s was the default gear, for the GVod.
It really depended on which cam I was running.
But the Key player was the 3.09low.

to Ryan, IMO, you will never be sorry.
Click to expand...
Thank you for all the information I can't wait to get this back together and drive it! This car has been sitting since the 90s and it's getting a new life I've had a bunch of mopars but so far this has been the most fun out of all of them
 
I remember a discussion here about the 3.09 first gear, if the 2nd gear is near the same as anA833
Aluminum With OD, the rpm will drop significantly
 
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