TTI headers hitting torsion bar 65 cuda with 360

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Cuda1965

Cuda1965

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Ok I know another TTi header installation question problem. I have a 65 barracuda, 92 360 motor, I have a bunch of small fitment issues but the biggest I am facing now is the pass side torsion bar is right up agaist the lower tube when sliding it through the header.
It looks as though the motor should be lower and slightly to the drivers side. The motor cannot go to the divers side because that side headers are already
pinned against the frame. I did the measurements TTi gives you, the motor is in the right location. I have stock mounts and stock V-8 torsion bars. I looks like the motor just should be lower and the bar would have plenty of room. Any suggustions??
 
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Lol jk are they shorty headers? Im not familiar with the tti but the engine should be sitting as low as it can with the mounts. Is it a v8 k frame?
 
Yes it is a v-8 K frame as far as I know. I was a 273 car supposedly.
I just opened up the motor mount slots to try and get the engine to sit lower, it did not help, we then just took out the complete motor mount bracket that attaches to the engine, elongated the holes to shift it up and reinstalled. that lowered the motor a little over a 1/4 inch.......gave me a little more room but the pipe is still just touching the torsion bar. really frustrated with these headers......I will resort to ding with the hammer but to do that the headers will have to come back out, no easy task....
before we do any more we are going to fit the steering column back in and see if there are any clearance issues with that (have seen posts about problems with those not clearing pipes) before I mess with anything else.
 
I have TTI's in my 66 valiant with a 340, but it also has HemiDenny's front suspension kit. So we're not remotely talking apples to apples.

All I know - I can't imagine these headers fitting with the torsion bars. They surely didn't fit well w/o them... I know (we all know, with early a bodies) everything's tight.
 
I ended up denting the passenger side headers to give the torsion bar some clearance. The drivers side had to be flattened so it would not be rest against the frame.
The steering box to steering column joint hit the header pipe, I ended up taking that out and used a borgeson universal joint to replace it to give me more clearance.....that still hit and I had to dent that header pipe for that too. The installation of these headers was totally ridiculous. installation finally complete. I also installed the matching 2.5 inch full exhaust with X pipe. I used Dynomax ultraflows instead of the dynomax normal muffler they normally supply. The installation of the exhaust system was no picnic either, I had to cut and re-weld to spread the X pipe assembly so it would fit the rear part of the system.
 
Just the opposite experience I had in the 70's installing the cyclone fenderwell headers. After cutting (heaven forbid) the exit holes, they literally just drop in, takes about 60 seconds. Same thing taking them out. Don't know why there is so much resistance to the fenderwell header solution, nothing looks more intimidating.
 
On early a's I know that when you're using tti headers at least one torsion bar passes through the tubes, is that possibly the problem?

Also, I thought all early k members were the same? Sorry to hear of your frustrations...sucks to spend so much on a part just to have to beat the crap out of it
 
Peyote said:
On early a's I know that when you're using tti headers at least one torsion bar passes through the tubes, is that possibly the problem?

Also, I thought all early k members were the same? Sorry to hear of your frustrations...sucks to spend so much on a part just to have to beat the crap out of it
Click to expand...

heh, one torsion bar does go through the headers. The other side the steering passes through.

But I had my frame modified instead of beating the crap out of the headers. All that said, one of the crazy car shows on Velocity had the guys beat the crap out of headers on a dyno. No freaking difference. It was shocking and painful to watch. But apparently there's not a whole hell of a lot of difference. I suspect on the very high end if you're getting the max out of everything it probably would, but it was a compelling argument to NOT worry about hammer fitting a header.
 
I just worked on adjusting the motor with a shim on passenger side, and i also elongated the frame, for more adjustment, and they are so close but after it all settled, no hammer needed.
 
dibbons said:
Just the opposite experience I had in the 70's installing the cyclone fenderwell headers. After cutting (heaven forbid) the exit holes, they literally just drop in, takes about 60 seconds. Same thing taking them out. Don't know why there is so much resistance to the fenderwell header solution, nothing looks more intimidating.
Click to expand...
 
I had them in the 70's also. Have another '65 and would love to find another set of those cyclones.
 
Peyote said:
On early a's I know that when you're using tti headers at least one torsion bar passes through the tubes, is that possibly the problem?

Also, I thought all early k members were the same? Sorry to hear of your frustrations...sucks to spend so much on a part just to have to beat the crap out of it
Click to expand...
No difference between S6 and V8 frames on early A's............none...ALL THE SAME........Just need the right mounts
 
My shorty TTi headers hit my Borgeson PS box. I know the feels. I'm trying to avoid moving the engine or removing the header as it will be a PITA. The problem is the tube is tough to get to and a punch and hammer isn't really denting the header, just knicking the surface.
 
I don't know why the "brilliant" people at TTI don't simply put a section of oval pipe in there to solve every one's problem???:
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Oh, I'm sorry TTI....that would make too much sense!!!!!!!:mob::mad::soapbox::wtf::BangHead:
Treblig
 
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