TTI HEADERS HITTING

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downsr

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HEADERS HITTING INNER TIE ROD BOLT ON DRIVERS SIDE .LOOKS LIKE I NEED TO RAISE MY ENGINE ABOUT A 1/4 INCH . DO THEY MAKE A SHIM THAT WILL GO BETWEEN THE BISCUIT MOUNT AND THE K MEMBER OR WILL I HAVE TO MAKE ONE. ANY SUGGESTIONS
 
HEADERS HITTING INNER TIE ROD BOLT ON DRIVERS SIDE .LOOKS LIKE I NEED TO RAISE MY ENGINE ABOUT A 1/4 INCH . DO THEY MAKE A SHIM THAT WILL GO BETWEEN THE BISCUIT MOUNT AND THE K MEMBER OR WILL I HAVE TO MAKE ONE. ANY SUGGESTIONS
I have had this problem more than once. Are you running stock motor mounts or conversion mounts from /6 to v8? The problem is worsend when using conversion mounts. I personally ground the tie-rod threads down to the point where it would clear.
 
You should never grind down or otherwise hack steering components:eek:
lol ok George.. Wheres your answer to his question. Not to mention your response to my comnent insinuates that I "Hacked" my suspention, not even close bud. It can be done nice and clean without any issues.
 
There should be a little "wiggle" room where you may be able to "twist" the engine on the mounts a bit after loosening them. Pick up the side of the engine with a hoist where you need the clearance. Fabricating a shim out of 1/4 aluminum plate would also be an option.

How old are the mounts? Old ones can compress a bit.
 
HEADERS HITTING INNER TIE ROD BOLT ON DRIVERS SIDE .LOOKS LIKE I NEED TO RAISE MY ENGINE ABOUT A 1/4 INCH . DO THEY MAKE A SHIM THAT WILL GO BETWEEN THE BISCUIT MOUNT AND THE K MEMBER OR WILL I HAVE TO MAKE ONE. ANY SUGGESTIONS

seems to me you answered your own question
get a piece of 1/4 inch stock, cut it down to fit under the motor mount, drill a hole and call it good
thats what i did to get my dougs to fit
 
The mounts are the original biscuit mount which are new.Thought maybe these mounts may have had shims originally that i am missing .
 
Shumacher Engine Swaps Schumacher Creative Services has shims they sell in a kit. There are different thicknesses in the kit. I had the same problem with my TTI's and conversion motor mounts. There's eight shims in the kit for $26.
...or you can make your own if you have the steel/aluminum plate laying around. It's a simple shape.
 
The poly mounts may be a little thicker if you prefer not to use shims.
 
seems to me you answered your own question
get a piece of 1/4 inch stock, cut it down to fit under the motor mount, drill a hole and call it good
thats what i did to get my dougs to fit
That's what I had to do too...a couple of washers on the driver's side mount.

Jeff
 
george is right,i would never grind down a steering piece.i cant imagine who would.
 
george is right,i would never grind down a steering piece.i cant imagine who would.
if he is grinding down a bolt that has extra threads on it, and doesn`t get it shorter than the nut or cotter pin, why not? it would weaken nothing. sounds like that is what he was asking. if I remember right, we had to turn bolts upside down on my first hemi belvedere to get header room.
 
if he is grinding down a bolt that has extra threads on it, and doesn`t get it shorter than the nut or cotter pin, why not? it would weaken nothing. sounds like that is what he was asking. if I remember right, we had to turn bolts upside down on my first hemi belvedere to get header room.
I would have to agree ^^^^^

Jeff
 
if he is grinding down a bolt that has extra threads on it, and doesn`t get it shorter than the nut or cotter pin, why not? it would weaken nothing. sounds like that is what he was asking. if I remember right, we had to turn bolts upside down on my first hemi belvedere to get header room.
This is exactly what I had to do. The problem in my case was the Schumacher mounts left little room for the nut on the motor mount after I shimed the left and right side. I had to shim the transmission mount as well. I was using a /6 K-frame. I managed to trim the threads on 2 newer Moog tie-rods and used a smaller castle-nut. In the end the clearance was minimal to say the least.. Same car 2 years latter I swapped the 416 out with a standard bore 340 and a set of Dougs Headers. There was almost 1/2 more clearance over the TTI's.
 
How expensive are the Doug's? might have to try a set. Anybody got the TTI's on a spool mount car? {'73 up} wondering if I may have the same issues? Have not made a choice on headers. {might end up fabbing my own}
 
How expensive are the Doug's? might have to try a set. Anybody got the TTI's on a spool mount car? {'73 up} wondering if I may have the same issues? Have not made a choice on headers. {might end up fabbing my own}

I have the TTI 1 5/8"-1 3/4" step headers on my '75 Dart Sport race car. OEM replacement poly spool mounts and OEM manual steering/suspension. I think them touching a torsion bar was the only issue I ever had. But that can be cured by a little wiggling of the engine while lowering. I usually tighten everything (including engine side mount bolts) after it's in place. Relatively east to install, especially the passenger side. And you don't need a 90* adapter.
 
How expensive are the Doug's? might have to try a set. Anybody got the TTI's on a spool mount car? {'73 up} wondering if I may have the same issues? Have not made a choice on headers. {might end up fabbing my own}
Best way to buy the Dougs are through Autozone using a discount code. I had them in my 72 A-Body using the front K-Frame from a 73 Dart Sport. The fit Amazing, no shiming no clearance issues at all. I bought them bare steel and had them sent out for coating. Very nice headers for the money.

IMG_0625-1.JPG
 
On my 70 Duster,
I have the TTI's and the schumacher mounts and had to do what woodie suggests. If I remember right, I had to shim the mounts @ 5/16". Made a U shaped shim out of flat stock steel.
I also bought mine bare and sent them out for a Good coating. I had heard some complaints on TTI's.

On TTI's web,{Hedder Installation} they tell you the height you should have from the center of the crank to the top of the K frame, and what centering measurements you should have because the engine is offset to the passenger's side. No matter what hedders you have, this is good info..
Hope this helps!
http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-ClassicHeaders/340-Step/Install Instructions TTi340A 4pgs.pdf
 
Fixed the problem.Friend made two shims out of aluminum 1/4 inch thick.Put one on each side between motor mount and k frame.Thanks for the replies
 
Yet another header fitment problem.lol I understand that Tti, Dougs, etc make quality products, even though I've never brought myself to drop that kind of coin on a set. I've ran hookers, flow techs, black jack, you name it and found them to all be junk! I'm running Headman on my Dart and W250 now. The standard ones are $200, never had a leak and the newer ones have the ball and socket collector. No gaskets and no leaks. Fit very well and wood quality except the cheap paint that comes on them. I've been very happy with them and that extra $400 comes in handy elsewhere. Just a thought
 
Yet another header fitment problem.lol I understand that Tti, Dougs, etc make quality products, even though I've never brought myself to drop that kind of coin on a set. I've ran hookers, flow techs, black jack, you name it and found them to all be junk! I'm running Headman on my Dart and W250 now. The standard ones are $200, never had a leak and the newer ones have the ball and socket collector. No gaskets and no leaks. Fit very well and wood quality except the cheap paint that comes on them. I've been very happy with them and that extra $400 comes in handy elsewhere. Just a thought
So many factors to consider. For a nice street motor, its very tough to beat the Dougs Headers.
 
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