TTI Problems - Annoyed!

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OP didn't mention what he has, small block, big block, slant 6 K, small block K, spool mount K....

I pounded mine, I have old CPPA's, but made by TTi only mine is a 383 big block with 2" headers that aren't supposed to fit either.. so it had to be done.. Trans-Dapt swap mounts with Schumacher shims as well..

Take a decent hammer and dent them for F's sake... replacing the knuckle is a waste of money.. buy the recall spring that goes over the stock knuckle. I am willing to bet my motor will make 450+hp on the dyno, and I will not lose 1hp from these headers..











 
that 3rd photo is crazy.never seen them pounded almost closed before.defeated the purpose dosent it.,wow
 
I had heard many war stories about the TTIs. I decided to go Schumacher Tri ys on my 383. Fit was great. Cleared power steering and starter very easily. Never been happier.
 
Damn..glad i run a smallblock not one dent needed to install my TTI's...
 
I had less fitment issues with pro-parts and a B in a 65 A! well, not quite. I had to reengineer an entire tube run on both sides. But for that money, Id like OOTB fitment too. My Hooker Super Comps fit like a glove in my 65 with a 340. And they snaked everywhere...they can be designed to fit! That idler arm crush is fan-tastic! RB would make those fit better, see you go the wrong motor! ;-)
 
pishta said:
I had less fitment issues with pro-parts and a B in a 65 A! well, not quite. I had to reengineer an entire tube run on both sides. But for that money, Id like OOTB fitment too. My Hooker Super Comps fit like a glove in my 65 with a 340. And they snaked everywhere...they can be designed to fit! That idler arm crush is fan-tastic! RB would make those fit better, see you go the wrong motor! ;-)
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looks worse than it is, shoulda seen it before I smoothed it out, looked horrible.. mine are 440 headers so yes it wouldn't have needed near as much had I gone with the taller deck, spark plugs would probably be easier too haha
 
May I add my comments. My ride is a '72 Scamp, 383, 727 with TTI 17/8" pipes. Although I have no firsthand knowledge of installation of 2" it stands to reason they would be more difficult to install. If I can enlighten you some. Their instructions are quite clear as to installation. I tried it my way and after 3 days of cursing I did it their way and they went in in 20 minutes. Installation could be mush easier if TTI put in slip connectors or 2 bolt flat flanges in such a way that the header could be installed in pieces from the top. We just had a set of 2" headers made by Tubular Automotive in Weymouth, Ma.. They come in and out in under 30 minutes. Granted they are pricey and still need to be coated, BUT, they are a dream to work on. Good luck
 
I'd like to believe when you pound headers the steel just re-shapes and you don't loose total area. Kind of like how there is nothing made or lost in nature, just recycled.
 
Replaced Hooker comp plus 2" headers with TTI 1.75" in my 71 340 demon with 4 speed to get gorund clearance they were the hardest to install I have ever done in my 55 years of working on hot rods(TOOK 3 PLUS DAYS TO INSTALL) still have problems with the clutch linkage like the look , sound and extra clearance BUT WOULD NOT BUY AGAIN OR RECOMEND THEM TO ANY ONE
 
340demon said:
Replaced Hooker comp plus 2" headers with TTI 1.75" in my 71 340 demon with 4 speed to get gorund clearance they were the hardest to install I have ever done in my 55 years of working on hot rods(TOOK 3 PLUS DAYS TO INSTALL) still have problems with the clutch linkage like the look , sound and extra clearance BUT WOULD NOT BUY AGAIN OR RECOMEND THEM TO ANY ONE
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3 days damn... 1/2 hour tops to install on a '70 duster..on my second set on my second duster..
 
Woods74 said:
I'd like to believe when you pound headers the steel just re-shapes and you don't loose total area. Kind of like how there is nothing made or lost in nature, just recycled.
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I see what you're saying, and ya you probably do lose a little area, but it will still equate to 0hp lost.. if anything I will sacrifice power cause they're 2" primary header on a head, cam, and intake 383 where a 1 3/4" primary would do just fine..

But I was on a tight budget, and $400 was the most I've ever spent on headers..

After I spent a week installing, and pulling my combo to fit the headers, the whole combo can be in and out in around 2 hours..
 
I installed them on my 66 Dart 408 stroker. Didnt fit worth a damn. Checked the k frame measurements and was where it was supposed to be. Called TTI only to hear the service tach say we have many out there that fit, the mandrels dont change so it must be my issue. I heated and dented and bent as needed. Still not running yet so I dont know how they will work once motor twists and moves. I do have a strap on drivers side.
I dont think I had any other options so I gotta live with it.
Rod
 
I just can't see how anyone could take a hammer and start banging away at 700 dollar headers. I know they can be a bear to install and get "just right", but it can be done.
 
Zac thanks for the photos but I can tell you now I will not be pounding on my nearly $1000 AUD coated headers. I will be doing everything possible to make them fit without doing that. For those that have asked my car is an original V8 - 318 car now 408 with replacement schumacher mounts.
 
This thread is a good example of why I've usually been happy with "cheapie" headers from Summit, Jeg's, Flowtech, etc. I don't feel bad modifying a set of headers I paid $100-150, but I'd be pissed dropping 3x (or more) that and having something that didn't fit perfectly.
 
I put a 360 Magnum in my 74 with tti's. They fit great except that my inner tie rods will touch one of the tubes when I'm driving straight. Like some have said, I can't shim the engine up. :sad9: My only other issue is I found out that I had to buy their offset Z bar to clear the header. I still had to bend that to make it work properly. Totally understand your frustration with headers.
 
replicaracer43 said:
Your problem is almost for sure, your engine location. But having the 73 mount system is a hurdle in your case. The welding and jigging of these k frames is all over the map, and its also been correctly mentioned already that the aftermarket mounts are sometimes off also.......I feel for ya, don't get discouraged!
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Exactly.

He doesn't have a 73 mount system. Nor does he have a Mon or Fri built car...

He has a Schumacher system.

And Zac F71 has a Trans Dapt system. With 2" headers that sound like they are supposed to fit a Raised Block motor??


Two aftermarket motor mount/locations, two problems.
 
ive always said how in the hell in todays world and computor tech.cant someone design a @#$% header that fits correctly.we can put a man on the moon but cant bend a piece of pipe
 
jdsduster said:
ive always said how in the hell in todays world and computor tech.cant someone design a @#$% header that fits correctly.we can put a man on the moon but cant bend a piece of pipe
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You can design a header that fits correct target. But what happens when the target is moved? Various aftermarket parts with various dimensions: motor and trans mounts, conversion mounts, heads and blocks with 40 years of machine work, 40 years old repaired and bend k-members pasted together to build cars from unknown sources, aftermarket suspension pieces from various suppliers with various dimensions. Worn suspension, mounts, bent items owners and installers are not skilled enough to notice.

These cars were not designed to fit headers. So you have to cram 5 lbs of $#@& into a 1 lbs bag.

The header fixtures at TTI take two people to lift.
 
I have a 67 dart with a 340, w2 headers, and 4 speed with stock clutch linkage. I have a 73 up k frame for the spool mounts in the 67 dart.
Also power steering. The headers from TTI were a bear to install. I pulled the torsrion bars and fed the headers from the top with the motor lifter up. Everything slid in as it was meant to fit with no issues other then the time and grumbling getting the X pipe hooked up. i did not even have to make a dent anywhere on the headers.

I have no complaints about tti headers other then the expense.
 
i have tti on a 73 duster too,they fit good,but others have had there issues.
 
The Trans-Dapt swap mounts are exactly the same as the Schumachers with only 2 differences.. 1. The Trans-Dapt's are $100 cheaper than the Scjhumachers ($60 vs $160) 2. The Trans-Dapt big block swap mounts is not pre-cut like the Schmacher mount is for the divers side mount to clear the oil pump - took me 30 seconds to cut it with a swazall..

They are worth buying if you're on a budget - the only place to get a torque strap, and mount shims though is Schumacher - I have a QA1 K member so I couldn't use the Schumacher strap - bought one for a fox body mustang..

I paid $400 for my headers used, they are coated, and were already pounded on a little as they were out of a 700hp 440 power steering car.. so I had to go further with the pounding or they wouldn't have fit due to the low deck 383
 
I don't think it is the headers or the mounts that are the problem. Keep in mind that on slant 6 mounts, you have to cut and drill one of the motor mount ears on the k frame in a certain spot, otherwise, the motor won't sit right and fitment becomes an issue. Schumacher provides instructions and templates but those are only as good as the installer. I'd you're off a 1/4 inch in one direction, it could mess everything up.

Just a thought
 
Just add another spot it is touching. Thats 3 places now Chassis, Steering Coupler and Steering Box. Couldnt see this little gem till exhaust shop let it down off the hoist. Boy Im wishing I ordered the 1 3/4 for that little extra clearance.
 

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