Needswork
Well-Known Member
Thanks Ironmike, that's helpful. I've already got some expensive 1.5 rockers, so I was planning to go with those. Perhaps it will be OK on my block or tubing is in my future as YR suggests.
I would have to tube both sides, while keeping the oiling stock, so my rollers can be fed. Was Poking around the net and look what I found.WydendorfMachine.com - Wydendorf Machine
Pricey, but looks worth a thought at least...
Some of your pricing is the most expensive I've seen advertised on this board, but that's your business.Profit and I can control my sizing of the OD and ID to my tooling at hand. J.Rob
Very true and watch for lifter body design, that can be the difference by itself.When going roller on these blocks, the lower you can keep that lifter at max lift the better. DON'T BE WORRIED. You'll get it all worked out! Seems like somehow.....we always do.
Some of your pricing is the most expensive I've seen advertised on this board, but that's your business.
He shoukd use a different lifter set or bush the one lifter bore and move on if that's the only issue, I don't see tubing being necessary or benificial at this level. Those lifters look like swiss cheese, I bet they piss oil like crazy, the body design is a double edge sword...not my favorite.
Keep in mind I'm not quoting in USD either. My prices may seem high but year end I barely make enough that I am considering employment in another field. This trade is best kept as a hobby. J.Rob
Keep in mind I'm not quoting in USD either. My prices may seem high but year end I barely make enough that I am considering employment in another field. This trade is best kept as a hobby. J.Rob
xture????
Why don't you mention how much your Mazak AJV CNC mill costs and how much to design and manufacture the fixture. This way people won't wonder why things cost so much?????
Treblig
Talked to Dennis Wyendorf today about his kit. Very knowledgeable guy trying to help people out.
Said the reamer is sized to factory specs. Can make them any size, but with my lifters the standard one will do. Asked about the bushing life and he said sold over 200 of these and never had anyone mention a short life or failure.
Of course I Google him and found he's highly respected in the Ford scene and pretty well liked from what I can see.
Pretty sure I'm pulling the trigger on this deal. If it's done properly you can do 3 blocks before you need a re-sharpen, so maybe I could sell it when I'm done. Lots of lube and never getting the tools too hot is the way to go, according to him.
We shall see....
Of course I will. Although.........found out my spring pressure MIGHT be less than thought. Mikes MRL ProSport's are good to 650lbs. .750 roller, but skirted more than the .815 rollers I have now.Cool. Keep us posted. I'm big on limiting oil at the lifter as much as I can, any way I can. This is just another option.
Of course I will. Although.........found out my spring pressure MIGHT be less than thought. Mikes MRL ProSport's are good to 650lbs. .750 roller, but skirted more than the .815 rollers I have now.
Have to check with Pac before I do anything yet. If i find out open pressure is 550-575 or so, i COULD be swayed to the .750 roller. Scary. I'm so all over the map right now. It's still friggin January and I'm in SUCH a hurry! Wifey says I need a Valium.
"A bigger wheel is better."
you guys are eveidently pretty well versed in these problems, and know eons more about it than I do. some pics of these procedures in progress and the finished product would be fantastic. so, how would you explain a 100,000 plus mile 440 block that is totally stock in these areas, still having a tight lifter bore w/ new lifters installed 50 yrs later ? all opinions appreciated ------bobAgreed. Assuming you're not trying to fix an oiling issue. Mike's way past doing it "right" (right being subjective to the guy supplying the ideas).
Mike - please read post 601769 on the link below regarding your self-bushing idea. You may repair the oil leak. You won't fix anything else. You need the right (expensive & complicated) machining equipment and tooling to do it right.
As to RAMM's comments - this is exactly why I build as a side business. You can't expect to pay your mortgage when the clientele is basing whether you're being fair or not on internet commentaries and pricing from when the subject vehicles were new rather than if their engine does what they want and expect it to.
As to the benefits of correcting angles - I will simply point to MOPARTS - or more precisely those builders that responded on this one. It's from 2010 but I can't think that any blocks fixed themselves in that time. And BTW - I've been bushing since way before this because it's the "right thing to do":
Seen many OEM 440 blocks with lifter bore issues? | Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech | Moparts Forums
how would you explain a 100,000 plus mile 440 block that is totally stock in these areas, still having a tight lifter bore w/ new lifters installed 50 yrs later ? all opinions appreciated ------bob
Well I just couldn't do it after talking to my machinist this morn. When I told him about the DIY thing, or maybe going to a .750 roller(which I knew was better...see post 1). He had a fit. "Do you have any idea how much time I put into that block?"..... "you wanted it PERFECT, now you wanna hack on it"....
So he said get it the hell out there and he'll correctly bush the bores for the cost of the bushings. He'd do it after hours, on his free time. It'll be done probably Friday morning. That is the kind of machinist I have and the relationship we have developed over a few years.
The only thing he had to find was a"print"... I guess a schematic of all the numbers and such. I think, because he doesn't have the BHJ machine. A lot tougher for him to get them spot on, but he will.
When I got there 5 brand new raw aluminum big blocks just showed up for 1 race team. This guy's busy but still takes care of the little guy. Lucky, huh?