Tuff Wheel / manual steering

-

nodemon

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Messages
1,277
Reaction score
742
Location
St.Louis
Anyone out there have manual steering / tuff wheel combo..? If so, is it manageable..? 72 Demon
 
It’s not a big deal at all. I commented on your other thread already, I have 16:1 manual steering, 275/35/18 tires in the front, and +6.5* of caster. I use my Duster (Demon clone) as my daily driver. It’s not a problem. Not the easiest car to parallel park, but it’s not impossible either. Once you’re doing 10 mph or more it’s a piece of cake.

If you have the standard 24:1 manual steering and a less aggressive wheel and tire set up than I run it shouldn’t be a problem at all.
 
It’s not a big deal at all. I commented on your other thread already, I have 16:1 manual steering, 275/35/18 tires in the front, and +6.5* of caster. I use my Duster (Demon clone) as my daily driver. It’s not a problem. Not the easiest car to parallel park, but it’s not impossible either. Once you’re doing 10 mph or more it’s a piece of cake.

If you have the standard 24:1 manual steering and a less aggressive wheel and tire set up than I run it shouldn’t be a problem at all.
Could you send some pix of your wheel and column..side shot too..?
 
Could you send some pix of your wheel and column..side shot too..?

These work?

They're older pictures from before I installed the 6 speed manual and procar seats. The Tuff wheel is a reproduction sold by Dale's Cuda Shop. Mine is actually a "blemished" one from eBay, occasionally the "blem" ones pop up for a little cheaper. Not a perfect copy of the original, the wheel cushion is a harder rubber/plastic material than the original foam. On a daily I actually like the harder material better though, it holds up better.

Also, my crush can (adaptor) is not an original A or B-body length. I made mine custom out of a much taller E-body crush can. The A-body length was not reproduced at the time, and they were more expensive then the E-body ones (I know right!?) so I cut an E-body one down and made it the length I wanted it. You can see that in the last picture, the crush can has a rib in it still. The E-body crush cans are ribbed like that (with a bunch more because of the added length), the original A/B body ones are smooth.

img_5170_zps9709f862-jpg.jpg


img_5173_zps20a8aa1b-jpg.jpg


img_5176_zps782af97e-jpg.jpg

IMG_5514.jpeg
 
Last edited:
These work?

They're older pictures from before I installed the 6 speed manual and procar seats. The Tuff wheel is a reproduction sold by Dale's Cuda Shop. Mine is actually a "blemished" one from eBay, occasionally the "blem" ones pop up for a little cheaper. Not a perfect copy of the original, the wheel cushion is a harder rubber/plastic material than the original foam. On a daily I actually like the harder material better though, it holds up better.

Also, my crush can (adaptor) is not an original A or B-body length. I made mine custom out of a much taller E-body crush can. The A-body length is not reproduced, at the time they were more expensive then the E-body ones (I know right!?) so I cut an E-body one down and made it the length I wanted it. You can see that in the last picture, the crush can has a rib in it still. The E-body crush cans are ribbed like that (with a bunch more because of the added length), the original A/B body ones are smooth.

View attachment 1715686423

View attachment 1715686424

View attachment 1715686425
View attachment 1715686422
Thanks for the pix..! You've convinced me with those.. Really digging the crush can too.. Appreciate the help..!
 
I much prefer manual steering amd have used a tough wheel on a few cars. Not bad at all. But I also run smaller tires on the front.
 
I much prefer manual steering amd have used a tough wheel on a few cars. Not bad at all. But I also run smaller tires on the front.
Thanks for the input..! I'm just gonna do it...can always go back to the monster wheel of necessary.
 
I have a stock bus wheel in my 68 Valiant with a 24:1 box and I actually find it a bit dangerous... you just can’t turn it fast enough to maneuver the car in some driving situations.
My 72 Scamp with 24:1 box and a Tuff wheel is much better and still very easy to turn...Oldkimmer sold me the Tuff Wheel a few years ago..it’s a knock off but I like it better than the originals or Grant ones I have.
 
These work?

They're older pictures from before I installed the 6 speed manual and procar seats. The Tuff wheel is a reproduction sold by Dale's Cuda Shop. Mine is actually a "blemished" one from eBay, occasionally the "blem" ones pop up for a little cheaper. Not a perfect copy of the original, the wheel cushion is a harder rubber/plastic material than the original foam. On a daily I actually like the harder material better though, it holds up better.

Also, my crush can (adaptor) is not an original A or B-body length. I made mine custom out of a much taller E-body crush can. The A-body length was not reproduced at the time, and they were more expensive then the E-body ones (I know right!?) so I cut an E-body one down and made it the length I wanted it. You can see that in the last picture, the crush can has a rib in it still. The E-body crush cans are ribbed like that (with a bunch more because of the added length), the original A/B body ones are smooth.

View attachment 1715686423

View attachment 1715686424

View attachment 1715686425
View attachment 1715686422


That carbon dash is awesome!!
 
These work?

They're older pictures from before I installed the 6 speed manual and procar seats. The Tuff wheel is a reproduction sold by Dale's Cuda Shop. Mine is actually a "blemished" one from eBay, occasionally the "blem" ones pop up for a little cheaper. Not a perfect copy of the original, the wheel cushion is a harder rubber/plastic material than the original foam. On a daily I actually like the harder material better though, it holds up better.

Also, my crush can (adaptor) is not an original A or B-body length. I made mine custom out of a much taller E-body crush can. The A-body length was not reproduced at the time, and they were more expensive then the E-body ones (I know right!?) so I cut an E-body one down and made it the length I wanted it. You can see that in the last picture, the crush can has a rib in it still. The E-body crush cans are ribbed like that (with a bunch more because of the added length), the original A/B body ones are smooth.

View attachment 1715686423

View attachment 1715686424

View attachment 1715686425
View attachment 1715686422
Looks very cool..! So, what was the fabrication process to shorten the crush can to get to a body length..?
 
That carbon dash is awesome!!

Thanks! It’s a custom overlay from Detroit Muscle Technology (DMT). I worked with the owner Jim to make a pattern for the lower overlay which they now offer. I don’t think he’s doing the lowers in carbon anymore, but I’m sure you could work something out with him if you really wanted one.

Looks very cool..! So, what was the fabrication process to shorten the crush can to get to a body length..?

Probably about what you would expect, I used the ribs on the E-body can as a guide to keep my cuts straight and just cut a section out and then welded the can back together. I made reference marks so I didn’t rotate the steering wheel mounting studs compared to the splines on the other side. And I tacked it in place and went slow TIG welding it back together, checking that the ends remained parallel as I went.

It’s actually not A-body length either. I took measurements based on my seating position and put the wheel where I wanted it.
 
Thanks! It’s a custom overlay from Detroit Muscle Technology (DMT). I worked with the owner Jim to make a pattern for the lower overlay which they now offer. I don’t think he’s doing the lowers in carbon anymore, but I’m sure you could work something out with him if you really wanted one.



Probably about what you would expect, I used the ribs on the E-body can as a guide to keep my cuts straight and just cut a section out and then welded the can back together. I made reference marks so I didn’t rotate the steering wheel mounting studs compared to the splines on the other side. And I tacked it in place and went slow TIG welding it back together, checking that the ends remained parallel as I went.

It’s actually not A-body length either. I took measurements based on my seating position and put the wheel where I wanted it.
Thanks for the info... Looks greatly.!
 
-
Back
Top