Tunnel ram or no tunnel ram...

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68 HEMI GTS said:
Just a thought, can the 3rd circuit be killed on those metering blocks (or main body’s) without affecting the operation of the normal 2 circuits? They can easily be tapped to make adjustable.
Click to expand...
That would save me some cash but 8/32” tap is unobtainable where I am, these brass plugs also. This is unc thread or unf?
I regret not getting new carbs from APD or TMC at this point. After asking around 4 custom built blocks will cost me 600, with shipping and customs 1000+
I’m thinking to put the dominator back on and leaving this for now.

I’m tempted to configure my own blocks but I don’t want to screw anything up and end up paying even more.

I need a beer.
 
Miszny said:
That would save me some cash but 8/32” tap is unobtainable where I am, these brass plugs also. This is unc thread or unf?
I regret not getting new carbs from APD or TMC at this point. After asking around 4 custom built blocks will cost me 600, with shipping and customs 1000+
I’m thinking to put the dominator back on and leaving this for now.

I’m tempted to configure my own blocks but I don’t want to screw anything up and end up paying even more.

I need a beer.
Click to expand...

You can do it. I will send you a 6-32, 8-32 and 10-32 tap and the correct drill bits to drill them. It won’t cost anything.

I can get you the brass set screws in those sizes if you can’t get them.

I don’t know if I just send you something as a gift if you have to pay taxes on it or not. I would hope not.

There are also very small number drills (60-1) that you’ll need. If you can’t get those, let me know and I will get you a set of those. If you look up the exact sizes of the number drills you may be able to use a metric drill that is very close. That would work.

You can use the drill bits as a pin gauge set if you can‘t get pin gauges.

Really this is very easy. We can walk you through it. Especially since you are an ocean and then some away, learning this for yourself will pay huge dividends down the road. Who knows…you get a handle on this stuff and maybe you can tune carbs for money where you are, if there is much of a need for it.

Your metering blocks may be 3 be capable but you may not have the third circuit. If there is a brass tube in each venturi then you have 3 circuits. If it’s not there, you have 3 circuit capable metering blocks but you aren’t using it.

If you can, take a picture, a close up of the boosters from the top so we can see if there is a small brass tube in there.

That will clean up a bunch of questions.

Once we get that sorted out, it will be easier to get you started on correcting your tune up.

I don’t remember so remind me, what ignition are you using and where is your timing?
 
Rat Bastid said:
You can do it. I will send you a 6-32, 8-32 and 10-32 tap and the correct drill bits to drill them. It won’t cost anything.

I can get you the brass set screws in those sizes if you can’t get them.

I don’t know if I just send you something as a gift if you have to pay taxes on it or not. I would hope not.

There are also very small number drills (60-1) that you’ll need. If you can’t get those, let me know and I will get you a set of those. If you look up the exact sizes of the number drills you may be able to use a metric drill that is very close. That would work.

You can use the drill bits as a pin gauge set if you can‘t get pin gauges.

Really this is very easy. We can walk you through it. Especially since you are an ocean and then some away, learning this for yourself will pay huge dividends down the road. Who knows…you get a handle on this stuff and maybe you can tune carbs for money where you are, if there is much of a need for it.

Your metering blocks may be 3 be capable but you may not have the third circuit. If there is a brass tube in each venturi then you have 3 circuits. If it’s not there, you have 3 circuit capable metering blocks but you aren’t using it.

If you can, take a picture, a close up of the boosters from the top so we can see if there is a small brass tube in there.

That will clean up a bunch of questions.

Once we get that sorted out, it will be easier to get you started on correcting your tune up.

I don’t remember so remind me, what ignition are you using and where is your timing?
Click to expand...
Class act @Rat Bastid
 
Miszny said:
That would save me some cash but 8/32” tap is unobtainable where I am, these brass plugs also. This is unc thread or unf?
I regret not getting new carbs from APD or TMC at this point. After asking around 4 custom built blocks will cost me 600, with shipping and customs 1000+
I’m thinking to put the dominator back on and leaving this for now.

I’m tempted to configure my own blocks but I don’t want to screw anything up and end up paying even more.

I need a beer.
Click to expand...
Can’t wait to join the fun!

image.jpg
 
Rat Bastid said:
You can do it. I will send you a 6-32, 8-32 and 10-32 tap and the correct drill bits to drill them. It won’t cost anything.

I can get you the brass set screws in those sizes if you can’t get them.

I don’t know if I just send you something as a gift if you have to pay taxes on it or not. I would hope not.

There are also very small number drills (60-1) that you’ll need. If you can’t get those, let me know and I will get you a set of those. If you look up the exact sizes of the number drills you may be able to use a metric drill that is very close. That would work.

You can use the drill bits as a pin gauge set if you can‘t get pin gauges.

Really this is very easy. We can walk you through it. Especially since you are an ocean and then some away, learning this for yourself will pay huge dividends down the road. Who knows…you get a handle on this stuff and maybe you can tune carbs for money where you are, if there is much of a need for it.

Your metering blocks may be 3 be capable but you may not have the third circuit. If there is a brass tube in each venturi then you have 3 circuits. If it’s not there, you have 3 circuit capable metering blocks but you aren’t using it.

If you can, take a picture, a close up of the boosters from the top so we can see if there is a small brass tube in there.

That will clean up a bunch of questions.

Once we get that sorted out, it will be easier to get you started on correcting your tune up.

I don’t remember so remind me, what ignition are you using and where is your timing?
Click to expand...
This is great, thank you! Perhaps there is hope for this after all. If you declare 15$ value and used stuff they will not tax it. I guess ups or fedex will be fastest.
I will cover the costs, let me know how much are all the taps, drills etc. We need to figure out how I get you the money.
Frankly I learn everything as I go on regular basis and sometimes it pays off and helps getting some parts money, but not many crazy people like me here.
I am worried that carbs mods are beyond my skills.
I needed new axle, I learned how to build one with help of Cass Eslick, made tools on lathe, pucks in Dana 60 and 8.75 sizes and already built some for people. Not a single fail so far. Same story with transmissions, engines, some camshaft specs advice here and so on.

I will send photos today. I believe there are no brass tubes and blocks are just capable of 3 circuit operation.

I’m running crank trigger, fixed at 34 degrees, retarded for cranking, advanced to 38 between 600 and 1200 to get better idle. I use programmable msd 6al2 with map sensor that works as timing advance in light cruise high vacuum situation. I disconnected map sensor for tuning purpose now. It gave me great fuel economy but not really that important at this stage.
 
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Rat Bastid said:
You can do it. I will send you a 6-32, 8-32 and 10-32 tap and the correct drill bits to drill them. It won’t cost anything.

I can get you the brass set screws in those sizes if you can’t get them.

I don’t know if I just send you something as a gift if you have to pay taxes on it or not. I would hope not.

There are also very small number drills (60-1) that you’ll need. If you can’t get those, let me know and I will get you a set of those. If you look up the exact sizes of the number drills you may be able to use a metric drill that is very close. That would work.

You can use the drill bits as a pin gauge set if you can‘t get pin gauges.

Really this is very easy. We can walk you through it. Especially since you are an ocean and then some away, learning this for yourself will pay huge dividends down the road. Who knows…you get a handle on this stuff and maybe you can tune carbs for money where you are, if there is much of a need for it.

Your metering blocks may be 3 be capable but you may not have the third circuit. If there is a brass tube in each venturi then you have 3 circuits. If it’s not there, you have 3 circuit capable metering blocks but you aren’t using it.

If you can, take a picture, a close up of the boosters from the top so we can see if there is a small brass tube in there.

That will clean up a bunch of questions.

Once we get that sorted out, it will be easier to get you started on correcting your tune up.

I don’t remember so remind me, what ignition are you using and where is your timing?
Click to expand...
I found 6/32 unc set of taps, 8/32 unc set of taps and 10/32 unf set of taps locally, well almost, in Germany. Is this what I need?

Drill bits will be more problematic. What sizes do I need exactly? I’ll see if I can get metric in close sizes…

Drill sizes I found easily available from size 0.0012”, next sizes 0.0015, 0.0019 and up by 0.004” to whatever size is needed.
 
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You need drill sets #1-60 and #61-80. 2 sets. The tiny bits need a really small drill chuck as well. You can find most of the stuff on eBay. Granted I know you have much more limited access over there so it may be a little more difficult. I think you’re going to learn a lot and I believe with the help here you should be able to get it tuned up.

The taps are just a basic machine screw thread. I am not sure of the abv on them.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
You need drill sets #1-60 and #61-80. 2 sets. The tiny bits need a really small drill chuck as well. You can find most of the stuff on eBay. Granted I know you have much more limited access over there so it may be a little more difficult. I think you’re going to learn a lot and I believe with the help here you should be able to get it tuned up.
Click to expand...
Do I need like a dremel for this?
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
You need drill sets #1-60 and #61-80. 2 sets. The tiny bits need a really small drill chuck as well. You can find most of the stuff on eBay. Granted I know you have much more limited access over there so it may be a little more difficult. I think you’re going to learn a lot and I believe with the help here you should be able to get it tuned up.

The taps are just a basic machine screw thread. I am not sure of the abv on them.
Click to expand...
I have two different tap options here, unf and unc thread. Only unc for 6/32 and 8/32 and unf for 10/32 that’s why I’m asking. Want to make sure if I should spend money on them or not.
 
Miszny said:
This is great, thank you! Perhaps there is hope for this after all. If you dec look are 15$ value and used stuff they will not tax it. I guess ups or fedex will be fastest.
I will cover the costs, let me know how much are all the taps, drills etc. We need to figure out how I get you the money.
Frankly I learn everything as I go on regular basis and sometimes it pays off and helps getting some parts money, but not many crazy people like me here.
I am worried that carbs mods are beyond my skills.
I needed new axle, I learned how to build one with help of Cass Eslick, made tools on lathe, pucks in Dana 60 and 8.75 sizes and already built some for people. Not a single fail so far. Same story with transmissions, engines, some camshaft specs advice here and so on.

I will send photos today. I believe there are no brass tubes and blocks are just capable of 3 circuit operation.

I’m running crank trigger, fixed at 34 degrees, retarded for cranking, advanced to 38 between 600 and 1200 to get better idle. I use programmable msd 6al2 with map sensor that works as timing advance in light cruise high vacuum situation. I disconnected map sensor for tuning purpose now. It gave me great fuel economy but not really that important at this stage.
Click to expand...

Ill pick up some taps and drills on Monday. PM me your info and I’ll get them coming your way.
 
Miszny said:
I found 6/32 unc set of taps, 8/32 unc set of taps and 10/32 unf set of taps locally, well almost, in Germany. Is this what I need?

Drill bits will be more problematic. What sizes do I need exactly? I’ll see if I can get metric in close sizes…

Drill sizes I found easily available from size 0.0012”, next sizes 0.0015, 0.0019 and up by 0.004” to whatever size is needed.
Click to expand...

Yes, UNC is what you want. That’s 32 threads per inch. UNF, which is fine thread and for these sizes of threads that’s 24 threads per inch.

Whatever you can’t get over there let me know and I’ll get it here and send it to you.

That way you can tune these things up and really enjoy your tunnel ram.
 
Miszny said:
I have two different tap options here, unf and unc thread. Only unc for 6/32 and 8/32 and unf for 10/32 that’s why I’m asking. Want to make sure if I should spend money on them or not.
Click to expand...

LOL I should have read all the posts first. You can use either UNC or UNF. Whichever you can get. Just the tap that matches the set screws you can get. The thread pitch doesn’t really matter.

Use what you can get. It will be fine.
 
Rat Bastid said:
LOL I should have read all the posts first. You can use either UNC or UNF. Whichever you can get. Just the tap that matches the set screws you can get. The thread pitch doesn’t really matter.

Use what you can get. It will be fine.
Click to expand...
I cant get any brass set screws here. I found some Chinese online shop that sells them 100 each size but not sure about correct depths. I’d prefer to use what’s normally used.
Do you think i can buy drill bits off ebay and send them to you so you can make a package with everything meaning drill bits and set screws?
6/32 unc tap set is 9$
8/32 unc tap set is 8$
10/32 unf tap set is 11$
The 10/32 should be unf correct?

I will try removing IFR from top of channels to see if that will cause rich part throttle condition.
 
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Miszny said:
I cant get any brass set screws here. I found some Chinese online shop that sells them 100 each size but not sure about correct depths. I’d prefer to use what’s normally used.
Do you think i can buy drill bits off ebay and send them to you so you can make a package with everything meaning drill bits and set screws?
6/32 unc tap set is 9$
8/32 unc tap set is 8$
10/32 unf tap set is 11$
The 10/32 should be unf correct?

I will try removing IFR from top of channels to see if that will cause rich part throttle condition.
Click to expand...


Absolutely I will do that for you. You can use the 10-32 UNF. It will work fine. Just get the same thread set screws and you’ll be fine.
 
IFRs seem to be .031 in the carbs. They are stuck, I’m sure I’ll damage them trying to remove them…
What is the sense of me using IAB anybsize bigger than IFR at this point? Is IAB feeding air thru IFR?
 
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Block is not 3 circuit, it’s 2 circuit. No brass tubes anywhere.

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FF0CB259-A6F5-4B94-BB30-4C6448BB7E0A.jpeg


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80E27D16-B806-46C9-876F-9F2E47F281E5.jpeg
 
Miszny said:
IFRs seem to be .031 in the carbs. They are stuck, I’m sure I’ll damage them trying to remove them…
Click to expand...

If that’s the case drill them out to as big as you can so it’s no longer a restriction and just leave them in there.

Then I would drill out some 6-32 set screws (you’ll need 8) to .026 and get the idle air bleeds at .068 to start. If the idle is rich or lean you can adjust it by changing the IAB either smaller or larger depending on what you need. It‘s way easier to get to the IAB’s.


Thats AWESOME that you don’t have the 3rd circuit. That makes it way cheaper and way easier to fix.
 
Ok, looking at the pictures…someone should be slapped for blocking the emulsion holes like that. They should be tapped and blank jets or screws screwed in there. That’s crazy.

You need one emulsion hole of .028 at or slightly above the float level and one of .028 at maximum float drop.

I‘d probably use 2 and 5 and block 4 because 1 and 3 are already blocked.
 
Rat Bastid said:
If that’s the case drill them out to as big as you can so it’s no longer a restriction and just leave them in there.

Then I would drill out some 6-32 set screws (you’ll need 8) to .026 and get the idle air bleeds at .068 to start. If the idle is rich or lean you can adjust it by changing the IAB either smaller or larger depending on what you need. It‘s way easier to get to the IAB’s.


Thats AWESOME that you don’t have the 3rd circuit. That makes it way cheaper and way easier to fix.
Click to expand...
Sorry where do I install 8 .026 6-32 set screws?

Actually the hardest things to get are these set screws. This is strange but I can’t find them anywhere. Taps are available, drill bits also not available.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Ok, looking at the pictures…someone should be slapped for blocking the emulsion holes like that. They should be tapped and blank jets or screws screwed in there. That’s crazy.

You need one emulsion hole of .028 at or slightly above the float level and one of .028 at maximum float drop.

I‘d probably use 2 and 5 and block 4 because 1 and 3 are already blocked.
Click to expand...
I guess piece of aluminum is wedged in there. Should I drill it out?
 
Miszny said:
I guess piece of aluminum is wedged in there. Should I drill it out?
Click to expand...

I‘d leave the holes that are blocked, blocked and I’d tap the other holes for set screws you can adjust them.

You want your idle feed restrictions to be at the bottom of the well. Let me see if I can grab your picture and show you where they need to go.
 
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