tunnel ram

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Don't get your panties in a bunch because I don't agree with what you're saying. You're a big boy you can take a little ribbing you know I don't mean you no harm.

rumblefish360 said:
I don’t know who this clown is but I ain’t laughing at you.


Ummmm, you calling me a lady?
Are you including me in the “nay sayers club?”
IMO, 400hp is low powered. Besides eye candy, I do t see any sense in spending for 2 carbs and an intake he does t have to make the power sought.

It does by a ton. That intake is 400hp capable.
Click to expand...
 
So your disagreeing with a tunnel ram is a expense he can live with because the current 4bbl. intake is sub par?
 
Sometimes people just like to have fun with there car. You know do some stuff that never been able to do with other cars. Sometimes it always doesn't need to be the best fuel economy or the most mannered sometimes it just has to be what you wanted to be.
 
Naw, no. I was just saying if you want a dual quad setup get one, if that's what you want it's not going to hurt nothing. But there's so many holes in his first statement like nobody knows what gear or what tires what stall converter good Lord what cam is way too much information here missing to give any kind of advice.

rumblefish360 said:
So your disagreeing with a tunnel ram is a expense he can live with because the current 4bbl. intake is sub par?
Click to expand...
 
You can also copy the Mopar Performance 360-380 create engine which always dynos over 400hp. IMO, I’d skip the single plane intake for the rpm intake for a bunch more torque. Which is what propels the car best off the line and mid way through the rpm band until the go takes over.
 
There is a guy racing a stick shift scamp in Cincinnati. It’s a stock stroke 340 that is thirty over. He has some serious time put into the heads and runs a custom bullet cam but the car runs 11s and I believe even 10s all day long. He runs a victor single plane intake and it works.

If I was in your shoes Fred I would put on headers, air gap intake and search around here for a nice off the self cam that others are using with good results. That combination with a 750 cfm carb will make close to 400 hp.
 
O-M-G! Stroker!
Still making use of the RPM intake manifold ....
Cheaper to do than a tunnel ram. Not that it wouldn’t be bitchin and cool and make more power, but....

MRL King of the Hill Street SBM
 
sorry guys not trying to start problems. if I can stick with the intake I have and just change the cam or whatever at this point I'm happy. but before I die I'm gonna put A blower on the old gal. my boy's ask me the other day witch one of us gets the scamp when I die.told them nobody put me in my car and bury us both. they told me that would take two grave plots and we wouldn't have enough money for a grave stone. well I got it all planed out now 1 grave plot deep put me in the drivers seat throw me and the car face down in the ground and fill us with dirt leaving nothing but the bumper above ground. write on the bumper my name and anything you think fit. but most important thing to do is take my old cd's find the the one that play's the song I'm on a highway to hell put it in my radio turn it on and make sure my foot is on the gas peddle
 
Well that settles it then, dual-quad tunnel ram it is! LOL!
Fred Scigliano said:
sorry guys not trying to start problems. if I can stick with the intake I have and just change the cam or whatever at this point I'm happy. but before I die I'm gonna put A blower on the old gal. my boy's ask me the other day witch one of us gets the scamp when I die.told them nobody put me in my car and bury us both. they told me that would take two grave plots and we wouldn't have enough money for a grave stone. well I got it all planed out now 1 grave plot deep put me in the drivers seat throw me and the car face down in the ground and fill us with dirt leaving nothing but the bumper above ground. write on the bumper my name and anything you think fit. but most important thing to do is take my old cd's find the the one that play's the song I'm on a highway to hell put it in my radio turn it on and make sure my foot is on the gas peddle
Click to expand...
 
doogievlg said:
There is a guy racing a stick shift scamp in Cincinnati. It’s a stock stroke 340 that is thirty over. He has some serious time put into the heads and runs a custom bullet cam but the car runs 11s and I believe even 10s all day long. He runs a victor single plane intake and it works.

If I was in your shoes Fred I would put on headers, air gap intake and search around here for a nice off the self cam that others are using with good results. That combination with a 750 cfm carb will make close to 400 hp.
Click to expand...
got everything you said on the car all ready but cam and manifold thanks I'll check it out
 
Fred Scigliano said:
thanks for the info. nice to talk to someone who cares
Click to expand...
Never a problem! Like most here, we are into helping. Though you do lack a good bit of info about your car, as someone mentioned, that is not (yet) part of the equation.

I also don’t like to just spend your money. I’d rather assume that your close to a actual no money/restricted money build. I’m not anti dual quad/tunnel ram but would rather sensibly spend your money.

And of course, I sometimes answer with sarcasm. Like;

.750 roller cam with 1.6 rockers for more lift with CNC W9 heads on a 476 cube small block will get ya 400 hp!
LMAO!!!!
 
Fred Scigliano said:
I have 410' s in my rear end [? that didn't sound good] and a gear vendor over drive I'm hoping that would help with the tunnel ram. but don't leave me hanging how do you know
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You're smuggling shotgun shells in Your derriere?!?! :eek:!! LOL!
If You're talking 400 Hp at the crank, You just need enough cam, not knowing the squeeze makes it impossible to pick the ideal one though.
If You're talking at the wheels, that's a whole different story. You certainly don't need a tunnel ram, but they are cool to see, prepare to be cleaning/changing plugs more...
400 at the wheels would take some good headwork and a valvetrain/intake system upgrade, and the bottom end better be plenty sound...........
 
rumblefish360 said:
Never a problem! Like most here, we are into helping. Though you do lack a good bit of info about your car, as someone mentioned, that is not (yet) part of the equation.

I also don’t like to just spend your money. I’d rather assume that your close to a actual no money/restricted money build. I’m not anti dual quad/tunnel ram but would rather sensibly spend your money.

And of course, I sometimes answer with sarcasm. Like;

.750 roller cam with 1.6 rockers for more lift with CNC W9 heads on a 476 cube small block will get ya 400 hp!
LMAO!!!!
Click to expand...
I think I'll stick with changing the cam. don't need to much power I have a lead foot. and your right about not knowing much on building my engine I haven't had a muscle car since 1979.
 
Did You know that you can rewire that GVOD and use it as a splitter? Then you can go just as quick on less hp.
Here's an A998
2.74-2.13-1.54-1.20-1.00-.78od,GV in red;and splits of .78-.72-.78-.83-.78into od
With those splits you can run a tighter LSA too, like maybe 106

But you'll need some heads to do the work with a lil less cam. And you'll probably need 4.30s to trap well in direct.You'll be sitting close to or at peak-power from about35 mph,and on thru the traps, like a snomobile.Get a rev limiter,for sure.And you won't need near as much TC, and that makes the whole pkg street/hi-way friendly. With 4.30s and 28s; 65=2620ishin od.
But because of the tight 2od/3rd gear split of .80, I'd try it with 4.10s that you already have, and a smaller tire. Say 26.5s. Then 65=2640.........................
With aluminum heads you can bump the Dcr up to about 8.8 or even 9.0 (Some guys here are a tic over 9.2 on pumpgas). if you don't mind running premium,(while you put the tune in), and that will make so much grunt with that starter gear you won't be able to stop smirking. You're gonna have to spend a serious wad of cash just to make it stick off the line.
I mean, imagine you stall it at 200ftlbs, and you multiply that by 4.30 and by 2.74 and run 28" tires. That will get you 2019 ftlbs to the pavement, corrected to a 12" radius. That will spin any street tire. And 200 ftlbs is easy with aluminum heads 11/1Scr and a 230/237/106 cam and about a 2400TC. You'll be spinning those 28s to 80 mph.

1) Here's a combo; fast-rate 276/106 in at an ICA of 60 *
Static compression ratio of 11:1.
Effective stroke is 2.66 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.02:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 186.68 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 155.......................................................155
Shoot, I'd try the factory A998TC; on account of you only need 150ftlbs at the crank with that starter gear(4.30x2.74=11.78).

2) Shoot you could run the next smaller cam, a lil less compression, and a tunnel-ram, if you're so inclined,lol.Here it is with an ICA of 57*
Static compression ratio of 10.75:1.
Effective stroke is 2.72 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.00:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 186.15 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 158..........................................................158
Are you kidding! Now you're making 360 torque.And I know what that feels like.

2B) Here it is with iron heads
Static compression ratio of 9.8:1.
Effective stroke is 2.72 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.22:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.61 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 141..........................................................141


3) I ran this in my 367 for 4 years; 270/110 cam; ICA of 61*
Static compression ratio of 10.9:1.
Effective stroke is 2.86 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.91:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 183.76 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 164.........................................................164
This thing spun 295s everywhere all the time; even 325DRs. And it ran on 87E10.

FWIW
My 3467# 68 Barracuda went 93(1/8th) with a stick and splitter with an Eddie headed 367, and a 230 cam. That computes to 433hp; and that makes it an 11 second car.
My engine could only hope to be making that. I think it might be making 380ish,400 tops.That's what gear-splitting can do......and you already have it!

Warning; opinions coming;
>I run aluminum because;
around town they suck enough heat outta the chambers that running lots of compression (with a tight-Q),does not produce detonation even with 87E10. But when I stand on it for 7 or 8 seconds,it seems the heat doesn't get a chance to get away,and that's when the magic of 11/1 happens. The only concession I had to make,to run 87E10 full-time, was to delay full power timing to 3400rpm. Why 3400?, cuz that's where the last recurve landed, and I called it good enough.She runs a two-stage curve with the first stage landing on 28* at 2800. I run a stick, so it's a bit more touchy from idle to 2800 where I spend the vast majority of time. With an auto, you can get away with murder,almost.
>A fast-rate 230 is a nice street cam;about as big as you might want to run with an auto.
>You can do this with an RPM AG and a 750, no problem, maybe even a 650 for the street.
>Long-tube headers are are a must to take advantage of that 106LSA cam in combo #1; it has 64 degrees of overlap, and the headers will really wake it up. It will not pull nearly as hard or as long with log manifolds. Run it with biggest daymn exhaust pipes you can fit under there. Everybody says you don't need dual 3s all the way, but I gotta wonder how many guys tried 'em. I did, and I ain't ever going any smaller. If they're too loud for you, run 2.5s from the mufflers out the back. If there's a next time, I'm runnin' 4" ovals to the mufflers.If you've already got something on there, leave it,lol, 3s ain't worth thaaat much on this combo, plus they're heavy! Mine scaled 72 pounds from the collectors to the bumper with Dynomaxers. That's almost a half a camsize right there,lol.I left it in the pits.

Happy HotRodding
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Did You know that you can rewire that GVOD and use it as a splitter. Then you can go just as quick on less hp.
Here's an A998
2.74-2.13-1.54-1.20-1.00-.78od,GV in red;and splits of .78-.72-.78-.83-.78into od
With those splits you can run a tighter LSA too, like maybe 106

But you'll need some heads to do the work with a lil less cam. And you'll probably need 4.30s to trap well in direct.You'll be sitting close to or at peak-power from about35 mph,and on thru the traps, like a snomobile.Get a rev limiter,for sure.And you won't need near as much TC, and that makes the whole pkg street/hi-way friendly.
With aluminum heads you can bump the Dcr up to about 8.8 or even 9.0 (Some guys here are a tic over 9.2 on pumpgas). if you don't mind running premium,(while you put the tune in), and that will make so much grunt with that starter gear you won't be able to stop smirking. You're gonna have to spend a serious wad of cash just to make it stick off the line.
I mean imagine you stall it at 200ftlbs, and you multiply that by 4.30 and by 2.74 and run 28" tires. That will get you 2019 ftlbs to the pavement, corrected to a 12" radius. That will spin any street tire. And 200 ftlbs is easy with aluminum heads 11/1Scr and a 230/237/106 cam and about a 2400TC. You'll be spinning those 28s to 80 mph.

1) Here's a combo; fast-rate 276/106 in at an ICA of 60 *
Static compression ratio of 11:1.
Effective stroke is 2.66 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.02:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 186.68 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 155.......................................................155
Shoot, I'd try the factory A998TC; on account of you only need 150ftlbs at the crank with that starter gear(4.30x2.74=11.78).

2) Shoot you could run the next smaller cam, a lil less compression, and a tunnel-ram,lol.Here it is with an ICA of 57*
Static compression ratio of 10.75:1.
Effective stroke is 2.72 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.00:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 186.15 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 158................................................................158
Are you kidding! Now you're making 360 torque.And I know what that feels like.

3) I ran this in my 367 for 4 years 270/110 cam; ICA of 61*
Static compression ratio of 10.9:1.
Effective stroke is 2.86 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.91:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 183.76 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 164................................................................164
This thing spun 295s everywhere all the time; even 325DRs. And it ran on 87E10.

FWIW
My 3467# 68 Barracuda went 93(1/8th) with a stick and splitter with an Eddie headed 367, and a 230 cam. That computes to 433hp. My engine could only hope to be making that. I think it might be making 380ish,400 tops. A fast-rate 230 is a nice street cam.It runs 87E10.
Click to expand...

Fred you may not be a gear head but this gentlemen surely is!
 
If you want a tunnel ram, get one, but it's not needed to do what you want. Dual quads are an old school look and an attention getter. They do perform as well as look old school tough. They are more difficult to tune properly, and they will wet the oil down with gas more if you do a bunch of short trips to the store and back.
In the end, it's up to you.
 
318willrun said:
If you want a tunnel ram, get one, but it's not needed to do what you want. Dual quads are an old school look and an attention getter. They do perform as well as look old school tough. They are more difficult to tune properly, and they will wet the oil down with gas more if you do a bunch of short trips to the store and back.
In the end, it's up to you.
Click to expand...

This means changing oil more often btw. If you get a lot of fuel in your oil you can say goodbye to your bearings. Don’t ask me how I learned that.
 
And it can happen in just second(s) at WOT......6000rpm is 100 per second, and a rod bearing can weld itself to the crank, spin around, and jam it up, get hammered flat, squeeze itself out the side, and make an awful racket. And don't ask Me how I learned that,lol .
If you're gonna spend a lotta time over 6000 then you need to make some oiling mods. I think there is a sticky on that; if not then there should be.
A 276 cam probably peaks around 5500 in a 340. With a regular A727 (close ratio,lol,trans), the shift point is usually about a 1000 rpm higher, so 6500. That will want the mods to keep the rods alive. With the A998(wide-ratio trans) and GVOD, the powerband requirement is only about 1300, so you can shift it at around 6100. That's another good reason to split gears.Now the mods are optional. And if you go the hi-flow aluminum heads/ smaller cam route, then the power peak will drop 200ish rpm and the shift speed as well, so now you're under 6000 with that splitter-deallio.
Yes I know the 200rpm lower peak is worth 20 hp or so.....SO what, the splitter is worth like 40 or more, over a 727.
Ok maybe I'm being obtuse.
What I mean is; OPINION coming;
:is, that the 340; with hi-flow aluminum heads and a 270 cam and the 998/splitter deal,and a 2400TC will trap the qtr as if it had;a 276cam (maybe even 282) cam, X heads,a 727, and a 3000TC. Yeah I'm guessing. I guess I should re-load my DT-Dyno program one of these days; then I'd know,lol.
 
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