Turbo 383 in a A-body Barracuda

-
you sure its getting a full 12 volts while cranking? I had mine hooked up wrong once and it didnt get 12 volts till I let off the start portion of the key. It made it a bear to fire! Finally figured out the problem and hooked it to a better source and problem solved.
 
HOTMOPR said:
you sure its getting a full 12 volts while cranking? I had mine hooked up wrong once and it didnt get 12 volts till I let off the start portion of the key. It made it a bear to fire! Finally figured out the problem and hooked it to a better source and problem solved.
Click to expand...

That is the way I originally had it and caught that issue. Moved it to a constant source. Still no fire.
 
I found this on MSD's tech site. I will give this a whirl!




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can you share with me how I can test my MSD 6AL box? I have also installed a MSD timing control box on the car as well.
Thank you,
Rod


RWil22444
View Public Profile
Find all posts by RWil22444

#2 07-11-2003, 10:21 AM
msdtech2
Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 684



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The way to test the MSD Unit, you will disconnect the white wire from the yellow on the timing control.
Disconnect the coil wire at the distributor cap and lay 1/4 from ground, this is where it will spark.
Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, do not crank, make sure there is 12 volts at the small red wire of MSD.
Take the white wire of the MSD 6 Unit and touch and release from ground, every time you touch and release from ground it will spark at the coil wire.
If you do not get a spark, swap the coil with a different coil, it doesn't have to be new, as long as it is a good working coil.
Do the same test, if you get a spark then it was a bad coil, if you still do not get a spark then you know it is a bad MSD unit, but double check that all connections are good and tight.
Thanks,
msdtech2


msdtech2
View Public Profile
Find all posts by msdtech2
 
CUUDAK said:
I found this on MSD's tech site. I will give this a whirl!




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can you share with me how I can test my MSD 6AL box? I have also installed a MSD timing control box on the car as well.
Thank you,
Rod


RWil22444
View Public Profile
Find all posts by RWil22444

#2 07-11-2003, 10:21 AM
msdtech2
Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 684



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The way to test the MSD Unit, you will disconnect the white wire from the yellow on the timing control.
Disconnect the coil wire at the distributor cap and lay 1/4 from ground, this is where it will spark.
Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, do not crank, make sure there is 12 volts at the small red wire of MSD.
Take the white wire of the MSD 6 Unit and touch and release from ground, every time you touch and release from ground it will spark at the coil wire.
If you do not get a spark, swap the coil with a different coil, it doesn't have to be new, as long as it is a good working coil.
Do the same test, if you get a spark then it was a bad coil, if you still do not get a spark then you know it is a bad MSD unit, but double check that all connections are good and tight.
Thanks,
msdtech2


msdtech2
View Public Profile
Find all posts by msdtech2
Click to expand...

Well,
I did this and got a orange spark from the coil wire not bright blue as I would have thought. As I touched the white wire to ground it made a god awful screetching sound. Attached the white wire again and spun it over, still no fire!:banghead:

Idunno!!
 
Sounds like you have a weak battery. Do you have a full charge?? You got a charger on it while you are cranking it? At Cranking maybe it is dragging down the Volts and not triggering the ignition? HOTMOPAR says he sorta had that kinda problem. Dang I really want you to figure this out and fire it up!
 
Mad Dart said:
Sounds like you have a weak battery. Do you have a full charge?? You got a charger on it while you are cranking it? At Cranking maybe it is dragging down the Volts and not triggering the ignition? HOTMOPAR says he sorta had that kinda problem. Dang I really want you to figure this out and fire it up!
Click to expand...
Battery is good and I had the charger on it too.
I registered on the MSD site but do not have permission to post yet. Probably Monday.:banghead:
 
After further searching for info. on the Aeromotive 16303 FP controller looks like I wasted more money! At no time did I find anything stating it was for a secondary system. Looks like it is useless in my combo! Damn. Guess I need to wire it direct and run a return. Geeez! This is some of the info. I found today,

How the DFMU works can be difficult to grasp but, basically it is a boost sensing fuel pump controller. It runs a second fuel pump, installed after the stock, in-tank fuel pump and regulator. This second fuel pump is plumbed so that during normal, non-boost driving conditions, it is off and fuel from the stock pump simply flows around it, with stock fuel pressure in the rail and stock fuel delivery to the engine. The DFMU control unit has a boost sensing line that connects to an internal pressure transducer, when boost is sensed, the second fuel pump turns on. Because there is no regulator after the second pump, as there is after the first, albeit in the tank, when the second pump starts it forces fuel into the rail at a rate that is determined by how fast the second pump turns. The speed of this pump is determined by the slider settings on the face of the DFMU control box. Positioning the slider at the lowest position runs the pump at the slowest possible speed, building the least amount of additional fuel pressure in the rail. As the slider is moved higher, progressively more fuel pump speed is created, building more pressure in the fuel rail, and delivering more fuel into the cylinder.
 
Damn that suxxxx. You might need it though. On TTF guys are saying that fuel pump in a boosted application is only good to 600HP. Not the 800 it claims to support. Just an FYI
 
Mad Dart said:
Damn that suxxxx. You might need it though. On TTF guys are saying that fuel pump in a boosted application is only good to 600HP. Not the 800 it claims to support. Just an FYI
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have 2 Holley blue pumps on the shelf. Since the A1000 has a internal check valve I may just y into the main fuel line after the A1000 for normal running conditions and leave the Controller hooked up. That way when I get into boost it will trigger the A1000 and add more fuel. I may need a check valve for the Holley blue though? I have another supply in the sump. Still will need to run a return line:banghead:.

Still no luck with the "No Fire" condition either.
 
A Walbro GSL-392 has the check valve in it, they are cheap and super quiet. I am running 3 all at once and you can barely hear them running. You do need a return though.
eBay has the best prices on them. They say 1 is good to 600HP on a boosted EFI set up. Carbureted I would think a whole lot more than that. Maybe sell your A-1000 run 2 of these and use your controller to turn the second one on. You would make $$ on that swap.
 
yep I am running 2 of those. I will probably add a third for poops and giggles. I like the set up louis did.. Looks real good!
 
BTW that package will go out Fed Ex tomorrow.. I know it works. I took it off my 63 savoy. Hope it cures your problems!!
 
HOTMOPR said:
BTW that package will go out Fed Ex tomorrow.. I know it works. I took it off my 63 savoy. Hope it cures your problems!!
Click to expand...
Hey, thanks again. I am gonna try the Blue first and see how it works with the A1000. I may end up going that route. I have an idea on running the blue pump on a relay so when the A1000 comes on the blue shuts down and vis-verse. It might just work.
Something like the transbrake button. Push a button for transbrake, let off it engauges the N2o. When the Controller kicks the A1000 on under boost it will kick the relay and turn off the blue.

I bet it will work! Just a little creative wiring.

I agree Louis' setup is sweet.
 
Geeez, I thought MSD had this Great tech dept.! All I got was "Put the Acell module back in!" I already advised that the magnetic pickup checked out "Good".... WTF???
 
CUUDAK said:
Geeez, I thought MSD had this Great tech dept.! All I got was "Put the Acell module back in!" I already advised that the magnetic pickup checked out "Good".... WTF???
Click to expand...

I hear you. Seems like most of the time we are left to figure everything out ourselves.
 
Well,
I decided to go out and jack with this issue with the MSD stuff. For the second time I removed the BTM and wired the 6AL by itself and whatayakno, its got fire now???? All that was wired in was the yellow of the BTM, prpl/grn pickup harness and the harness for the knob.
Man I hope the service dept. is faster than the tech dept.. Guess I will call tomorrow and get a return merchandise number and get it sent in for repair. I looked around the MSD site and found the repairs should be way more affordable than a new BTM.

I will try and get a video up of it running here pretty quick. I have a moderate fuel leak at the fuel filter housing where the an fittings attach. I can't get it to seal for some reason.

Thanks for all the input folks!
 
CUUDAK said:
Well,
I decided to go out and jack with this issue with the MSD stuff. For the second time I removed the BTM and wired the 6AL by itself and whatayakno, its got fire now???? All that was wired in was the yellow of the BTM, prpl/grn pickup harness and the harness for the knob.
Man I hope the service dept. is faster than the tech dept.. Guess I will call tomorrow and get a return merchandise number and get it sent in for repair. I looked around the MSD site and found the repairs should be way more affordable than a new BTM.

I will try and get a video up of it running here pretty quick. I have a moderate fuel leak at the fuel filter housing where the an fittings attach. I can't get it to seal for some reason.

Thanks for all the input folks!
Click to expand...

So did you get it started or are you going to wait for the BTM to get fixed?
 
Mad Dart said:
So did you get it started or are you going to wait for the BTM to get fixed?
Click to expand...
Yep,
long enough to hear and feel it before the bowls ran out of gas. Sounds pretty stout. Thats about as far as I got due to the fuel leak. I will wait for the BTM to drive it. Somehow my fuel filter has been damaged on the male an fittings and I can't get it to seal. The only damn leak in the whole system arg.....

We got a big swapmeet this weekend so gonna head out and see what I can find. Its a shame that Mopar stuff at swapmeets around here are really rare.

I still gotta bleed the brakes and get the front-end aligned too. My buddy brought over a driveshaft for an A-body but it too is still to long at 48"s.

Just how many driveshafts did they make for A-bodies??????
 
Got the radiator hoses on and filled with water. No leaks! Set the pump controller at 10% and hooked it to a squeeze bulb to activate it. 14#'s steady on the gauge. Fired it up for a short period and warmed it up. Run the cam in and noticed fuel seeping from the top of the regulator then looked over to the hose hooked up to the boost port and fuel was trickling out. Shut it down before something bad happened! Just ordered a new service kit for the regulator. Thank God it happened before I got serious with it.

Haven't hooked up the turbo yet since the BTM isn't working. But let me tell ya!!!!

This low deck sounds pretty damn mean!!! Nice crisp throttle response! I am soooooooooooooo excited!!!!!!!

This thing is gonna be something WICKED!!


I get the small bugs worked out then I will post some video! I think there is a song my wife sings for this__________"Anticipation"__________...
 
CUUDAK said:
Got the radiator hoses on and filled with water. No leaks! Set the pump controller at 10%and hooked it to a squeeze bulb to activate it. 14#'s steady on the gauge. Fired it up for a short period and warmed it up. Run the cam in and noticed fuel seeping from the top of the regulator then looked over to the hose hooked up to the boost port and fuel was trickling out. Shut it down before something bad happened! Just ordered a new service kit for the regulator. Thank God it happened before I got serious with it.

Haven't hooked up the turbo yet since the BTM isn't working. But let me tell ya!!!!

This low deck sounds pretty damn mean!!! Nice crisp throttle response! I am soooooooooooooo excited!!!!!!!

This thing is gonna be something WICKED!!


I get the small bugs worked out then I will post some video! I think there is a song for this__________"Anticipation"__________...
Click to expand...

Great! :hello1: Hook up the Turbo, your not going to get it on boost parked in Neutral, don't be scared....... haaaaa
 
Mad Dart said:
Great! :hello1: Hook up the Turbo, your not going to get it on boost parked in Neutral, don't be scared....... haaaaa
Click to expand...

Lol!:blob:

I pulled the diaphram from the regulator and it looked like a dry rotted tire! Got that ordered for $33. Glad it happened now rather than later. Taking the driveshaft monday to be cut and balanced. Bleed the brakes and finish filling the trans.

Getting closer!:burnout:

It sounds better than my 440 Sixpack I pulled from it!:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top