turbo 6 bangers post here

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Ha ha u cant blame a guy for trying lol but u have to bring it to tulsa nov 3 for the mopar drags .. so get to work bud lol
 
MJF said:
I have yet no experience of my own, but another finnish turbo-slanter told that NGK PBR6FS has worked good. Better than 7. He has newer style head with small plugs, but heat range should be same.
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Hmm, Should have mentioned that I'm running the old style head. Any idea what that would translate into a gasket style plug?
OK I might have answered my own question...
from NGk's plug number breakdown it looks like I need a
B - 14mm thread
P - projected tip
R - resistor type
6 - heat range ( maybe a 7 )
E - 3/4" thread reach
S - standard electrode 2.5mm


Does this look right?

SO..if all of this is correct

one step hotter would be BPR4ES
ZFR5N should = BPR5ES
one step colder should be BPR6ES
 
Bill Dedman said:
That's a great recipe for a low-buck /6 wake-up!!!

Gotta be a very cool (and reasonably-priced) way to get a /6-powered A body into the 14's.

Thanks for posting that. We'd love to see some pics...
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That was my version 1 except I had a holly 4 bbl. Ryan went 11s with only the primarys opening...My version 1 went into the 12's......first pass ever it went 13.21.
 
Dart_Doctor said:
Ok i know theres already a thread started on here bout this but they get all jumbled up now if ur doing one then post up what ur doing .. speces and what not to help any one that mite be thinking of doing a turbo slant .. now i know bill will be here soon lol now lets see it bill heres the spot u know i would like to see it so show it and the rest of u to .. btw sticky :happy1: so some one can find it would be nice
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This was originally posted in the wrong thread. Here it is where it belongs:

"There are some major factors ($$$$$$$) that would keep someone from jumping into this with both feet, and going whole hog on a turbo project. In this case, knowledge IS power!

If you REALLY want to reap the benefits of forced induction to the extent that your car is a vehicle that makes people say, "Wow; does that thing really have a six in it," just like you would if you were going to build normaly-aspirated mid 10-second small block A-Body, it's going to cost some serious cash.

When boost levels go much above 10 pounds (which they must, to achieve the kind of power levels to make "gee whiz" horsepower,) it puts a strain on the reciprocating assembly. To deal with that, forged (instead of cast) pistons and aftermarket rods are necessary to maximize reliability. Biggger valves are needed in the cylinder head (and, bigger ports to go along with them,) and those items are not cheap.

An intercooler may (and, probably will) be necessary... and sometimes an alcohol injector system as well, is used to stave off the dreaded detonation monster. That can cost upwards of $800.00 for those two "insurance" items.

The MSD ignition company makes a handy, boost retard unit called a "Boostmaster" which has a dash-mounted control that allows you to tailor your maximum spark advance to an amount you think will work with the octane rating of the fuel being burned at the moment. That MSD unit has settings that will retard the spark 1, 2, or 3 degrees for every pound of boost it "sees" up tp a maximum of 15 degrees.

Nice to have for the street, but again, more money.

If you choose to run a carburetor, it will have to be modified by someone who knows what they are doing, to get it to operate correctly under boost. I paid $900.00 for such a carburetor, but there are more reasonable deals around.

These are just SOME of the ways that a turbocharged engine can be expensive. There are more; the fuel system, for example, is quite different from a normally-aspirated engine's fuel system because it must overcome whatever amount of boost you decided to run, in addition to supplying 6 or 7 pounds of pressure to the needles and seats..

Some run a half-inch fuel line from the tank or fuel cell, to the regulator beside the carburetor. That half-inch line holds enough fuel to weigh a significant amount, and the acceleration immediately off the line can force that fuel "backwards" which is another added pressure issue (on top of boost) that must be overcome by sufficient fuel pressure from the pump.

So, it's an expensive proposition to do this right. But the rewards are great...

More later."
 
QUOTE=Bill Dedman;1716007] So, it's an expensive proposition to do this right. But the rewards are great...
Having said that, I'd like to point out some positive aspects of putting a turbo on a /6, first as an alternative to a normally-aspirated small block V8 buildup, and also as an alternative to a normally-aspirated /6 buildup.

In the first instance, a large percentage of small block V8 A Body buildups result from obtaining a car with a /6 already in it. In that case, the existing engine must be replaced with a 273, 318, 340, or 360 that must be bought, usually.

If you already have a 225 in the car, that's the first expense that can be avoided, and it can be considerable.

From the standpoint of turbocharging a 170 or 198, I'd personally avoid that option just on the "bigger is better" standpoint. Just my personal preference.

There are some things about the turbocharged /6s that are not self-evident, but are things I have become aware of by reading posts made by successful /6 turbo racers. Some of these factors are cost-related; for instance:

For reasons not clear ro me, turbocharged /6s seem to like rear axle ratios that are the direct opposite of their normally-aspirated cousins, both 6 and V8... that is, they seem to perform better on the drag strip, with 2.76:1 rear gears than, say, 4.10s. Sounds crazy, but that has been proven to be the case on at least two of my favorite F-A-S-T /6 turbocharged race cars.


That accomplishes two things: For one, you have a rear axle ratio that enhances drive-ability on the highway, by keeping the rpm’s down, and doesn’t need to be swapped out for a deep gear when you get to the drag strip.

Secondly, since you already have a “one-size-fits-all” ratio in place, you won’t be needing an 8.75” drop-out-center-section rear end (and, I don’t have to tell you how much money they are getting for A-Body 8.75” rears, these days.) So, you can opt for a much cheaper, easier to find, 8.25” unit that will likely already have a desirable ratio installed.

That’s a considerable saving, right there.

The ‘6 turbocharged engines I have seen described, don’t seem to need to turn a lot of RPMs to make good power. The motor in Ryan Peterson’s car (2,700 pounds) has run 127 MPH, and never sees the far side of 5,500 RPM. It is around 500 horsepower, and runs 10’s with a 727 transmission.

That penchant for high performance at not many RPM’s means that the valve-train doesn’t need to have a lot of valve spring pressure, so mostly stock parts (with the exception of the valve springs, themselves) work very well.

No expensive roller rockers, thick-walled pushrods, or titanium retainers required.

Turbo cams are by nature, MILD, so expensive, hi-stall torque converters are not necessary.

This also enhances around-town drive-ability.

Most turbochargers homogenize the sound waves in the exhaust to the extent that usually, a muffler is not necessary.

More money saved…

A high-voltage ignition system for reliablehigh RPM operation is not necessary. The one on our car is an MSD 6-AL, but I’m betting an orange box would work just fine due to the relatively low-RPM operation.

Headers are a wash; you can, if you want, just use the cast iron /6 exhaust manifold attached to a turbo mounting flange and save the cost of headers, but a lot of folks think that this system can be improved upon with a tubing header.

Engine longevity should be good with the turbo /6 due to the fact that you don’t have to wind it up like a 8-day clock for it to be fast. RPM kills more engines than boost…

Just some things to ponder….
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Bill Dedman said:
Asa,

We're WORKIN' IN IT AS WE SPEAK!!!:protest:

We hope to make that race, for sure....
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Here's the car as we're getting the chrome back on it. The back bumper and grille (and intercooler) come next...

Slow but not-too-sure... LOL!:violent1:
 

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Do you have any pics using the u bend piece off the stock manifold? would like to see how you have yours set up
 
chrome who needs chrome lol ... looking good bud cant wate to see it here i have fath yall will make it out here tell u what we could do get my barracuda out there and make a vid of them running down the track side by side well at the start after that all i will see is tail lights lmao
 
we ran a 8.33@161 in a mates turbo 6 today
 

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Me and my dad are gonna turbo my slant. I was wondering how are you guys oiling the turbos?
 
1970valiant said:
Me and my dad are gonna turbo my slant. I was wondering how are you guys oiling the turbos?
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Unscrew the oil pressure sending unit from the block and install a T fitting in the block where the sender originally screwed in. Screw the sender into one leg of the T fitting and run a line from the other leg of the T fitting to the turbo. Piece of cake...

Run a half-inch diameter drain from the turbo into the pan.
 
That's going to be one bad *** 64 more door valiant. Great job!
 
Bill Dedman said:
Dunno about chrome, but we took some pictures tody after we got the chrome (most of it) back on after the paint job. Here are a few...

Oh, we have new backup-light lenses; we just didn't think to put them in for these pictures...:banghead:
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I like how you did the car - very unique. You'll get a ton of eyeballs on that intercooler.
Flat black hood - what paint?
Rear bumper - silver paint? (Sorry to be so nosy about non turbo stuff)

Are you actually running that narrow rubber with a turbo?

Only one thing prevents me from doing a turbo /6 - silly I know but I just love the sound of a V8.
 
Idaho said:
I like how you did the car - very unique. You'll get a ton of eyeballs on that intercooler.

Thanks for your interest and the questions! Here are some answers:

The exterior of the car isn't finished. It will change in these ways, as soon as I can get it done...

I plan on using the stock front bumper, with the middle-section cut out, (the width of the intercooler,) and putting a stencil the shape of the Mopar "M" with the curved legs, on that intercooler (about 8" tall... roughly the height of the intercooler minus about an inch,) and painting the intercooler with radiator paint (flat black) so that (once the stencil is removed) the "M" will show up in silver, with "legs" of the M, about an inch-and-a-quarter thick.

Flat black hood - what paint?

The hood will be painted black, like the hoods on the 1971-72 Dusters that had the "340 WEDGE" decal... that black. I have a decal made up in that same style of lettering that will go on this fiberglass hood, that instead of "340 WEDGE" says "225 TURBO." There are some stylized decals for the area of the back fenders just in front of the taillights that have a stylized turbo scroll in red and white colors, and lettering that says "turbo" above the scroll, and "slant six" on the bottom.

Rear bumper - silver paint? (Sorry to be so nosy about non turbo stuff)


No problemo... The rear bumper had a large section of rust, where the chrome had come off years ago, and was too rough to plate, so we used body filler on it and painted it. This is a race car, not a show car, so paint was deemed good enuff.... :)

Are you actually running that narrow rubber with a turbo?

The tires that are on it are just for moving it to the body shop and back. The 9"-wide X 26"-tall slicks (Hoosier) that will be used at the strip, are on a separate set of (identical, but wider.... 8") wheels. We'll be ~lucky~ to get it hooked up with them, nevermind the stock rubber... LOL!

Only one thing prevents me from doing a turbo /6 - silly I know but I just love the sound of a V8.
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I love the V8 sound, too, but I'm more interested in how a car runs than how it sounds... I have a Vortech supercharged 360 Magunm in my other car (1972 Valiant,) and if this old '64 runs the way it should... and we have no way of knowing that it will, BUT IF it runs the way it should, it will run away from my V8 car... That car runs mid 11's.
 
Rockerdude said:
That's going to be one bad *** 64 more door valiant. Great job!
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Thanks a LOT for those kind words!

We are newbies with turbos AND with slant 6's.... so we're kind of flying blind, here.

Some kindhearted FABO members have led us, in this experimental operation; Thanks to Tom Wolfe, Ryan Peterson, Frank Brent and Charrlie Schmid for all the good advice and information.

Without their help (particularly Tom's) we'd still be trying to figure out how to get the head off this thing... LOL!

No kidding!

If it runs even half as well as their cars do, we'll be happy campers!!!

Wish us luck! And, thanks for the interest and comment!!!
 
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