Turn a small drill press into a Bore/ Hone. Bolt it to the top of your engine block & do your own machining .

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340six said:
Is that shots, on the rocks or frozen drink from a blender?
As far as the Bamboo just remember you have to keep it well coated with coconut milk. If not it will become dry and brittle. You do not want failed equipment
After reading your chop a piston thread.
I had great idea for a tool that makes the need to bore and hone and new pistons a thing of the past.

I am working on your blanace problems. Will update you on progress. Not sure if should reveal my 2 new machines for the good of the automobile world. Or get a lawyer involved. It could be a revolution in how things are done and be worth a fortune.
So do I share or get lawyers involed to register?
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Everyone knows you can't get a perfect balance.
 
Steve welder said:
Run out would mean how true the shaft is turning, in this case the shaft of the drill motor.
If the runout of the drill shaft is too excessive for cylinder boring, the cylinder would never be round. Also side load of the shaft is a big factor, as the shaft comes out to drill a deeper hole or in your case a bore, how much side play will be encountered, will there be chatter from the bit against the cylinder wall
Look at a milling machine, notice how large the shaft is that the tooling attaches to, now look at a boring bar
Look up a Van Norm boring machine, notice how large that shaft is
Its the same principle as cutting a inside hole in a round piece of stock using a lathe
I did a dozen easy couplings for motor and pumps, the coupling comes in a set, if memory serves me right, there was a small hole in the coupling, we would drill first and than bore the coupling to size for the shaft, it was always a shrink fit so it had to be spot on or either it would be to loose or once installed you could never remove it unless you split it with a burning outfit and yes I split a few
So again, using this press you have to get it exactly centred in the bore, remember the invisible centre line we discussed
And the machine absolutely cant move at all
I think if a bonafide machinist explained this all to you, better than I could you would understand that how noble a idea you have and I give you credit for trying, using a drill press to bore a cylinder is just not the way to go
Seek out a expert, ask for opinions and take that advice, you will save money and aggravation in the end

Years ago on another forum there was a very very talented guy, he flew private jets for clients, this guy had a shop to die for and everything he did seemed to be perfect, he also as I found out had a huge ego and nobody was telling him ****
He posted a picture of a weld he did with his 110 MIG welder and was proud of how good it looked, he claimed that he could weld a 1 inch pad eye on to something I forget and it would be perfectly sound and safe
When I pointed out to him that his weld was "cold", what some call cold lap and poor penetration, plus the fact that no 110 volt Mig welder could make a sound weld on steel that thick, well the **** hit the fan
The guy carried on like a lunatic towards me. No matter how I tried to explain myself he wouldn't hear it. Finally I simply told him, I would (have many times) weld a properly fabricated 1 inch pad eye on a suitable beam with stiffeners if required. I told him my co workers lives depend on what I welded. Failure could mean death
I asked him to be honest and would he be confident his weld would be the same.
That was the end of the conversation and he never replied
My point is at some time its wise to listen to advise given by people, not sarcastic put you down posts, but people who know and thats why before you screw up that block id find someone who knows and talk to them. If you dont want to thats up to you and who knows maybe you will be successful. Either way best of luck and enjoy the weekend
Enjoy the weekend
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Enjoying the weekend, yes. Time to study spring shafts and tensile / twist strength , flex & Run out effect on the heavy CoreDredd tool that is 4-41/2" not 2.5" someone made a comment about, just need to swap out taller brackets with the stones. LOL

IMG_20230609_145540119.jpg


IMG_20230609_145546948.jpg
 
I am not proud, I just have too follow thru, I am not quitter; it's hard for me too believe someone already figured out the physics between twist force/ spring length and material and friction of cyl wall / tool contact resistance...and what's $200 - $300? If I even succeed or don't?
 
Jessearent said:
I am not proud, I just have too follow thru, I am not quitter; it's hard for me too believe someone already figured out the physics between twist force/ spring length and material and friction of cyl wall / tool contact resistance...and what's $200 - $300? If I even succeed or don't?
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Yes, this math is known. Hooke's law is over 450 years old for chrissakes. The study of friction as it relates to abrasion and surface finish is 150 years old.
Everything you're trying is a methhead level of quality version of some older and still questionable practice that has long since been abandoned due to better and affordable ways of doing it. But keep on throwing your money on the fire. The smarter members here at least make it entertaining since you can't even manage to do that.
 
I am still going to help. I know you wanted weights on things like Rods, Pistons, and Bobweight.
I tried asking Bob. When i did he got pissed, said he was eatting way to much fast food and did not want to talk about it.
 
Jessearent said:
...and what's $200 - $300? If I even succeed or don't?
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probably damn near a proper bore and hone job from a machine shop, tbh.

success wise? you'll succeed in making something that appears to be workable but is way out of spec. so you'll have wasted time, energy and money. and then you'll still have to pay a machine shop to correct your mistakes and make it useable-- that's provided you didn't wreck the block in the first place.

i don't know about you, but in my world time, money and energy are precious commodities. i also don't like paying for things twice. but you do you.
 
Jessearent said:
What does everyone think of a " rough bore" to .028" over by a machine shop? Let me do something!
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Realise that 30 over is taking 15 off the cylinder walls and yes you can hone that much off but you can very easily taper the cylinder, put the wrong finish on the cylinder walls and wind up with to much clearance
You have to know the wear on your cylinders as it is now
The problem with bringing it to a machine shop and telling them not to hone it, is like asking them to do an incomplete job and honestly if you brought the block into be bored. it wouldn't make sense not to have it honed for each piston you have.
Why not do as im doing now, a trusted shop is doing all the machine work on my 4cyl Willys engine, im assembling it
 
Steve welder said:
It would give him a good idea of were he is at
Ive seen real machinist's use dial calipers many times in the shop, I would think using an outside mike would be whats really should be used. The guy is using a mag drill to bore or hone his cylinders, I doubt he could afford a set of outside micrometers, hence my thoughts
I didn't know you were actually a machinist
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He‘d have a ballpark idea of what he had. That’s what a caliper is good for. Quick and dirty measuring. It’s not precise.

In fact, I put all my calipers to the test in 1 inch increments. Most of them are off in at least one increment.

No one should be boring and honing a cylinder with a caliper. Or any of the **** this dude is doing.

Ring seal, bore geometry and ring technology is so far ahead of where it was even 10 short years ago it’s not funny.

Garbage is garbage. Doing it the way this guy is doing it is garbage. If he’s down with garbage then I’m good with it. Just don’t tell me how cool it is, or how revolutionary it is. It’s neither.
 
$70 for reject pistons
$239 for a portable bandsaw to hack the top of the pistons rendering them useless
$300 + to see if home boring a block is possible.
$4 gal. Kerosene
 
Yunick13 said:
$70 for reject pistons
$239 for a portable bandsaw to hack the top of the pistons rendering them useless
$300 + to see if home boring a block is possible.
$4 gal. Kerosene
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+ the mag drill and whatever "attachments" "boring tools" "honing tools"
 
Rat Bastid said:
He‘d have a ballpark idea of what he had. That’s what a caliper is good for. Quick and dirty measuring. It’s not precise.

In fact, I put all my calipers to the test in 1 inch increments. Most of them are off in at least one increment.

No one should be boring and honing a cylinder with a caliper. Or any of the **** this dude is doing.

Ring seal, bore geometry and ring technology is so far ahead of where it was even 10 short years ago it’s not funny.

Garbage is garbage. Doing it the way this guy is doing it is garbage. If he’s down with garbage then I’m good with it. Just don’t tell me how cool it is, or how revolutionary it is. It’s neither.
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Im not telling you how "cool" or '' revolutionary" anything is. Ive been trying to point out to him why the whole drill press idea isn't going to work and I also know he should be using the proper measuring tools, thats not being disputed
While I dont doubt new technology, any competent engine rebuilding shop could give him perfectly acceptable results
 
Everybody told you the band saw piston hack wouldn't work, and it didn't. Maybe you should stop being so stubborn. This reminds me of my old boss trying to build a never-done-before device to spin at 20,000+ RPM. Instead of spending the initial money to hire a seasoned engineer with high-speed rotating machinery experience he threw hundreds of thousands of dollars in the trash making a bunch of 500-lb paperweights with a fab shop that had never built something that moves. As far as I know he's still trying because having 20+ years experience managing junior engineers in the military means he knows how to make something like that work. Riiight.

Don't be like that guy.
 
Clickbait thread.

Probably another member with a different name now..entertaining themself.
Could even have a machine shop already.
Its hilarious.
Enjoy the pages of nothing and nays.
 
Steve welder said:
Realise that 30 over is taking 15 off the cylinder walls and yes you can hone that much off but you can very easily taper the cylinder, put the wrong finish on the cylinder walls and wind up with to much clearance
You have to know the wear on your cylinders as it is now
The problem with bringing it to a machine shop and telling them not to hone it, is like asking them to do an incomplete job and honestly if you brought the block into be bored. it wouldn't make sense not to have it honed for each piston you have.
Why not do as im doing now, a trusted shop is doing all the machine work on my 4cyl Willys engine, im assembling it
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Good read, just don't know if I will ever get around to assembly any time soon...my plan was to bag it up after hot tanked and bored .028/rough bore. Going back driving OTR in a couple days. But look forward to the assembly...maybe when I retire next year.
 
Just wanted to ask a question which will barely change the subject of the thread. But I just discovered a set of Comp Cam 928 Springs brand new in the box with 10° keepers and retainers. 1.88 installed height, 170 seat pressure. 356 spring rate good to .630 lift. Can these work with a .512 hydraulic roller? Asking for a friend.
 
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Jadaharabi said:
Just wanted to ask a question which will barely change the subject of the thread. But I just discovered I a set of Comp Cam 928 Springs brand new in the box with 10° keepers and retainers. 1.88 installed height, 170 seat pressure. 356 spring rate good to .630 lift. Can these work with a .512 hydraulic roller? Asking for a friend.
Click to expand...


Yes
 
Jadaharabi said:
Just wanted to ask a question which will barely change the subject of the thread. But I just discovered a set of Comp Cam 928 Springs brand new in the box with 10° keepers and retainers. 1.88 installed height, 170 seat pressure. 356 spring rate good to .630 lift. Can these work with a .512 hydraulic roller? Asking for a friend.
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For a hydraulic roller cam, I believe you need bout 135-140 lbs on the seat and 420lbs open pressure
 
I got a question also, I found this Holly Strip Dominator intake manifold with, what looks like a piece of PVC block off cap cut and installed on the floor...should I keep it there? More HP maybe?

IMG_20230610_223742421.jpg
 
Jessearent said:
I got a question also, I found this Holly Strip Dominator intake manifold with, what looks like a piece of PVC block off cap cut and installed on the floor...should I keep it there? More HP maybe?

View attachment 1716101000
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Personally I think I would remove it because it looks like some of that may be coming loose. And if it does come loose it's going to hit that intake valve and hit the top of the piston in the combustion chamber and then try to go out the exhaust valve. But that's just me I would rather see a block of aluminum welded in to the manifold personally. Jmho
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Clickbait thread.

Probably another member with a different name now..entertaining themself.
Could even have a machine shop already.
Its hilarious.
Enjoy the pages of nothing and nays.
Click to expand...
Agreed on all of this. Maybe we should be thinking of a member who's normally a pot stirrer, but is being unusually quiet on this one...
 
Righty Tighty said:
Agreed on all of this. Maybe we should be thinking of a member who's normally a pot stirrer, but is being unusually quiet on this one...
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that's the 'ah ha" of it.

Back to that hyd roller spring idea..
Personally, I would consider the 170lb seat pressure to be a bit more than a plunger wants to manage . I'd definitely use a light oil for as fast a refill as possible of the lifter when that much pressure fights pumping up at all.
Light on the preload too...you dont want to bottom out the plunger, itll run great.. but then kill the lifters and or cam. Shock loads rollers that aren't designed for that load. The travel has to be there for a fighting chance at A. Not bottoming out the plunger by pre loading bellow the range of recovery and B. Keeping it from pumping to point of float/hanging the valves open. The factory used a ton of preload because they wanted to use a spring light enough to keep the iron core roller cams from wearing out.. light a psi as they could get away with..for 200+k... and that massive preload .050-.090 would take up the slack in the upper range once the spring started giving up..which is right where the combo of parts as cast falls of, 4500rpm. Ask any cam grinder and theyll tell you a minimum 250/260lbs for any hyd roller turning 4500 rpm IS required...the factory said eh.. how about 200lbs and .060 worth of preload to chase the push rod..lol..but really they took and ground a larger nose flat tappet base 'larger probably' circle, it's just not steep..its soft.

For a small block...couple things... if the geometry has been corrected...I'm more a fan of 120-130lbs seat and at least 340lbs for a say.... .550 lift hyd roller turning 6000 rpm in a AT car ....360-380lbs for a dual purpose and or 4 spd motor. 170lbs seat is what you would typically use for a street solid roller chevy...where the bank is 48, geometry is set right and all the components are about 10-30 grams 'lighter' along with those softer ramps. You could play with that 170lbs if you're using it for drag racing. Mopar sb 58 banks and heavy everything need more pressure to control it.
Think lobe, rocker ratio, lifespan/usage , core type, geometry though when choosing springs is all I'm saying.
 
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